Ingredients harnessed by today’s leading product formulators are picked to deliver results. If that component can also generate social media buzz, that’s gravy.

Whether it is a longstanding department store line or a rising star on TikTok Shop, today’s most successful skincare brands are incorporating novel and workhorse components in their serums, creams and lotions. And they’re calling out hero components to pique consumers’ interest. 

It is a strategy that Spate stands behind. In fact, the New York-based trend tracker says it can be advantageous to highlight key ingredients in product names based on growing consumer knowledge about skincare ingredients in general.

Consider recent search data for “copper peptide serum” and “tranexamic acid serum.” 

According to Spate, tranexamic acid serum averages 1.2K monthly searches, with 64.6% growth compared to last year. Copper peptide serum averages 4.7K monthly searches and has experienced a 68.3% increase in interest compared to last year. 

In a research report released earlier this year, Spate said vitamin C, hyaluronic, glycolic and salicylic acids, tretinoin, niacinamide, snail mucin, castor oil, ceramide and peptide were ingredients on the rise. Vitamin C saw the highest volume increase with a year-over-year change of 12.6% to reach a search tally of 736.3K last year. Hyaluronic acid followed at roughly 362K, with a change of 17.9%. Glycolic acid and tretinoin followed with 244.5K and 254.9K, respectively. Niacinamide garnered 178.7K searches, up 26.7%.

The growth in search data speaks to consumers’ hands-on (the keyboard) approach to skincare.

According to Circana, 55% of consumers said they “do their own research” to figure out which brands and products use clean ingredients compared to 44% who say they rely on retailers for this information, especially as it pertains to skincare. The information was shared in Circana’s new report on wellness trends.

Inside Story

Today’s hottest ingredients are being called upon to help brands meet the “KPIs” in today’s competitive skincare category.

As this issue headed to press, Kenvue announced the full retail launch of Collagen Bank Moisturizer and Collagen Bank Broad Spectrum SPF 30 Moisturizer. Brand officials said the launch moves Neutrogena into the “pre-aging category” and is designed to meet the needs of Gen Z.

The new Collagen Bank formulas—which soft launched on TikTok Shop—have micro-peptide technology described to be two times smaller than the leading anti-aging peptides on the market. The proprietary technology is said to target five markers critical for preserving skin’s firming support matrix: elastin, pro-collagen, hyaluronic acid, fibronectin and decorin. 

Elemis Pro-Collagen Future Restore Serum, said to improve skin firmness up to 46% in just four days, contains Opal Skin Algae Complex, which is comprised of a trio of marine microalgae diatoms—microscopic algae known as “opals of the sea” due to their natural luminosity. Diatoms can help promote the production of key proteins needed for collagen and elastin in skin, according to the brand. 

Leaders in skincare continue to invest in R&D to improve their formulas.

L’Oréal, for example, is extending the use of Melasyl, a proprietary molecule developed over 18 years. Designed to address localized pigmentation issues that lead to age spots and post-acne marks, Melasyl most recently has been incorporated into Kiehl’s Auto-Tone Discoloration & UV Solution SPF 30.

Clarins is touting the “9th generation” of its Double Serum, which is formulated with 27 ingredients—22 plant extracts and five “pure active” molecules. Key to the formula is Epi-ageing Defense Technology, which Clarins asserts has enhanced the formula’s action on skin’s five vital functions—regeneration, oxygenation, protection, hydration and nutrition. At the core of this technology is organic giant Provençal reed, which Clarins insists has not been used before in cosmetics. This extract helps to neutralize 100% of epigenetic modifications linked to lifestyle, according to the company.

Flower & Fruit Power

Novel natural ingredients always garner attention.

The Outset’s new Cool Cream Smoothing Mask is formulated with electric daisy, a wrinkle-fighting floral commonly known as “the toothache plant.” It delivers an energizing, cooling sensation while relaxing fine lines and reducing signs of skin stress, instantly and over time, according to the brand, which was co-founded by Scarlett Johansson and Kate Foster.

In a clinical study, electric daisy showed a significant smoothing effect on expression lines and a decrease in skin roughness vs placebo. The mask is also formulated with linseed extract (to plump and soothe), antioxidant-rich yerba mate, arnica (to reduce redness and irritation) and Hyaluroset Complex—described as the brand’s botanical alternative to hyaluronic acid.

Skincare startup Tano is harnessing balbisiana extract in its formulas. Derived from banana sap, this ingredient has been demonstrated to enhance collagen production by 324%, making it four times more effective than traditional retinol, according to the brand. The Austin TX-based company was the 2023 Grand Champion at the Texas Venture Labs Investment Competition.

The Gold Standards

Retinoids and peptides are perennial hot ingredients. Brands continue to develop new formulas around the materials, creating novel combinations that bolster results.

Elizabeth Arden, for example, this summer launched new Retinol + HPR Ceramide Capsules Rapid Skin-Renewing Serum. HPR (hydroxypinacolone retinoate) is a retinoid acid ester that delivers the same potency and superior efficacy of highly active retinoids while being extremely gentle on the skin, according to Dr. Dendy Engelman, a board-certified dermatologist. 

“HPR works by binding to the retinoid x receptors (RXRs) only, which don’t cause any irritation when activated. You get all the potency and efficacy without any side effects,” said Engelman. “Additionally, it doesn’t need to convert to retinoic acid like other OTC retinoids do, and 100% of HPR is used instead of the usual 10%.”

Susan Zuckerman, VP-global marketing, Elizabeth Arden, called the launch a “game-changing” advancement. 

“What truly sets this serum apart is that every single user, including those new to retinol, reported that it felt comfortable on their skin,” she said.

Encapsulation plays a crucial role. According to the Arden team, encapsulating the 4% Pure Retinol + HPR Complex in biodegradable capsules protects the photosensitive components so they remain stable and effective. They maintain their potency from the moment of application until they reach the skin, per the brand.

“Moreover, the encapsulated delivery system offers a precise and consistent dose with each capsule. This pre-measured format not only enhances convenience but also ensures that users receive the exact number of active ingredients needed for optimal results without the risk of over- or under-application,” Zuckerman added.

Eight Saints is harnessing retinol for the first time in its new Smooth Sailing Retinol Face Moisturizer Cream.

“After years of customers asking us, combined with known clinical effectiveness, we decided to offer it,” said Jessica Maxcy, creative director, Eight Saints. “It has a good safety profile if used in moderation and responsibly.”

Noting retinol’s ability to boost collagen and reduce wrinkles, dark spots, scars and uneven texture, Eight Saints asserts that its formula “avoids harmful preservatives to counter any retinol irritation.” 

Eight Saints Smooth Sailing Retinol Face Moisturizer Cream formula also contains green tea, hyaluronic acid and vitamin E.

SkinCeuticals launched P-Tiox, a serum inspired by the effects of neurotoxin injections and the “microtox” trend. P-Tiox is a patent-pending blend of advanced peptides “amplified by synergistic actives” to reduce the appearance of nine types of contraction lines and reveal visibly smooth, radiant skin on all skin types and tones, according to the brand. 

Key ingredients include Advanced Peptide Complex with 2% acetyl hexapeptide-8 and 2% dipeptide diaminobutyroyl to help reduce the appearance of contraction lines; and Glass Skin Complex with 5% polyhydroxy acid, 5% niacinamide an 1% laminaria extract, which maximizes hydration while gently exfoliating to improve texture and radiance.

In a similar vein is When Beauty’s Botulixion Plumping Cream. It contains four different peptides including Botulinum polypeptide, which is derived from botulinum toxin, as well as hyaluronic acid complex and collagen complex.

Byoma’s new Barrier+ Repair Treatment is a leave-on facial treatment with a rich, buttery formula that offers targeted hydration while calming redness and inflammation. It features barrier lipids, avocado oil, ectoin and squalane to deliver instant relief and lasting hydration to irritated, dry skin.

Formulas in Veriphy Skincare’s 5-Step Skin System feature PhytoSpherix technology, which CEO Lindsay Nahmiache says is a vegan form of glycogen that provides intense moisture while helping to reduce the appearance of fine lines and dark spots. Veriphy’s line contains ingredients like arnica and calendula extract, which repair and soothe skin that has been exposed to stress and pollution.

‘Just Right’ Ingredients

With the flood of self-proclaimed “skinfluencers” on social media, finding trustworthy advice can be daunting for consumers. And lest we forget to mention what can happen when information lands in the wrong feed—like when consumers who have yet to hit double-digits are asking for skincare products with complex formulas for their birthday.

Experts have become keen to share information about hot—and maybe even not so hot—ingredients through social media.

Take Scottsdale-based dermatologist Dr. Brooke Jeffy MD. She went viral after talking about those so-called Sephora Kids. Her TikTok about “tween skin is not adult skin” has garnered 3.2 million views to date.

“There are certainly a lot of hot/viral products out there driven by social media hype and branding. I think the actual ingredients in these products matter less to Gen Alpha, which kind of makes sense. They are young and trying to fit in, not necessarily making decisions based on true health or skin benefits. More often I am trying to explain to them why they do not need certain ingredients or products,” she told Happi.

As the founder of BTWN, a skincare brand geared for Gen Alpha, Dr. Jeffy stresses a simple regimen for this age group that is focused on keeping skin clean, moisturized and sun protected. 

Still, she knows a good ingredient for Gen Alpha when she sees one—like hypochlorous acid. “It feels like a cool trendy face mist yet is great for healthy skin to support skin barrier function and can also help acne,” she said. 

Dr. Jeffy also loves salicylic acid for those Gen Alphas who are starting to see clogged pores and blackheads. 

Benefits, Packaged

In the end, a hot ingredient is one that delivers proven benefits in the final formula. And that’s what dermatologists tell consumers to seek.

“There are many ingredients put in products based only on some suggestion of benefit and no definitive evidence of benefit. So obviously ingredients with evidence are where you will get more bang for your buck,” Dr. Jeffy said. “I think it is OK to consider a product that has a less researched ingredient that may appeal to you, but when products contain everything but the kitchen sink, it is just a recipe for disaster for your skin barrier.”

It sounds like sound advice for formulators, too.