Fragrance is the fastest growing category within the prestige beauty market this year. According to Circana, through August 2024, US prestige fragrance sales rose 11% to $4.5 billion.

 “In fragrance, we are seeing bifurcation. Stronger fragrance concentrations and more luxurious brands continue to excite the consumer and lift the category,” said Larissa Jensen, global beauty industry advisor at Circana. “At the same time, lower priced product including body sprays and minis are also winning. Fragrance is an area where consumers understand the need to spend more and will pay more for longer lasting scents.”

Some of the biggest names launching fragrances this holiday season include Coty. 

Fragrances are used to promote feelings, noted Walter Johnsen, vice president of product development at InterParfums, New York. 

“People want what they want—and that changes based on who you ask. For me, the number one thing across all is  people want their fragrance to make them feel happy, confident, loved. That is why people buy fragrance because it makes them feel… People buy, have bought and will continue to buy because the scent they chose makes them happy,” he said. 

Brands are leveraging social media, with TikTok at the forefront of viral trends. With the hashtag #perfumetiktok generating over a million views, fragrance brand Luxoni Beauty dug deeper into TikTok search data to find the biggest search trends.

Luxoni Founder Malika Isles said: “The demand for niche fragrance houses and choices are growing rapidly. Fragrance consumers seek unique blends to highlight their individuality. Whether this desire for niche perfumes takes form as seeking fragrance with high quality ingredients or fragrances made in small batches—we’re seeing a big shift in the fragrance industry.” 

Vanilla scents are trending. The search term “vanilla gourmand fragrances” was searched for 887,000 times and increased 141.10% in interest during the past month, according to Luxoni Beauty. Gourmands, more generally, are the biggest emerging fragrance category on TikTok, with “vanilla caramel perfume” the most searched-for combination.

Luxoni Beauty embraced this combination of sweet vanilla and rich caramel in its latest release, Mayfair Muse. Others are introducing vanilla-based scents to their collections, reflecting the rise of this trend.

Additionally, as TikTok influencers increasingly identify themselves through various aesthetics to match a certain mood, the perfume category appears to be following suit. From “clean girl” to “dark feminine,” TikTok users are increasingly categorizing and wearing scents that align with their own aesthetic. 

Hot for Holiday 2024

Leading the launches for Holiday 2024 is Infiniment Coty Paris. Billed as “the intersection of art and perfumery, the brand blends “art, science and emotion in a collection of 14 creations.” 

Created and designed by Nicolas Vu, the bottle stands as an ode to minimalism, officials said. Each is made to be stacked and assembled with the next. French biotech skincare brand Orveda recently unveiled its first flagship boutique in New York City. Located in the Upper East Side, La Maison Orveda New York City will serve as a stand-alone spa and boutique showcasing the French brand’s facials, skincare and high-end fragrances with the newly launched Infiniment Coty Paris collection.

TikTok users are also increasingly searching for fragrances that are designed for all genders. With a total of 1.7 million searches, the term “unisex fragrance” increased 202% in the past month alone, according to Luxoni Beauty. 

The move toward gender-neutral scents reflects a broader cultural shift toward inclusivity. Consumers increasingly seek fragrances that resonate with their identity, rather than being confined by traditional gender norms. This trend presents a unique opportunity for brands to cater to diverse preferences.

Jovan’s first launch since 2017 is a modern musk eau de parfum collection that touts mood-boosting fragrances designed for layering. The unisex collection celebrates the brand’s expertise in musk, offering trend-forward scents that cater to fragrance enthusiasts who love nostalgia and scent exploration.

“We are thrilled to introduce this unisex eau de parfum collection under Jovan fragrances,” said Coty Chief Brands Officer, consumer beauty, Stefano Curti, in a statement. “Coty’s dedication to Undefining Beauty and embracing inclusivity aligns seamlessly with Jovan’s bold and expressive spirit, empowering you to feel confident, forge meaningful connections and celebrate your individuality.”

A musk fragrance innovator since the 1970s, Jovan says it champions inclusive attraction that resonates with consumers of all ages and generations, with its three scents: Skin I’m In, billed a fresh and long-lasting musk eau de parfum that makes wearers feel comfortable comprised of notes of jasmine, black currant and a musk blend; Make Them Talk, featuring notes of osmanthus, lemon peel and woody musk with patchouli; and I Want You To Want Me with gourmand notes of pink pepper, rose and musk.

Jovan’s new fragrance collection is housed in simplistic glass bottles accented with the brand’s signature orange cap.

Other news at Coty is the recent rollout of Adidas Vibes. The beauty giant says consumer testing shows the six eau de parfums are proven to elicit positive emotions.

The scents are grouped in three themes—Power Up, Relax and Escape. The EDPs are: Full Recharge (cedar leaf and clary sage), Happy Feels (grapefruit extract and jasmine), Chill Zone (lavender and vanilla), Get Comfy (vanilla and mandarin), Energy Drive (cardamom and spicy pink pepper) and Spark Up (sweet orange and black pepper).

Coty tapped ambassadors to promote Vibes—singer/songwriter Ava Max, gymnast Nia Dennis  and rising athlete Sasha Zhoya.

“In our fast-paced lives, we often overlook the importance of being in the moment, to truly ‘feel the vibe.’ The Adidas Vibes collection harnesses the transformative power of scent to help us reconnect with ourselves,” said Curti. “Each fragrance fosters a positive influence on our mood and enhances our overall wellbeing. By merging cutting-edge fragrance formula with the ‘zeitgeist’ we at Coty keep innovating and pushing the boundaries in the world of fragrance.”

Meanwhile, DSM-Firmenich Principal Perfumer Frank Voelkl bottled up the vibrancy of New York City in InterParfums new DKNY 24/7 eau de parfum.

The textural floral woody musk is housed in an hourglass-shaped bottle symbolic of the continuous flow of time and the hustle and bustle of the world’s foremost city. Top notes include pink pepper and rhubarb. Middle notes are rose centifolia, tuberose and jasmine sambac India. Base notes are upcycled cedarwood, sandalwood and musk with ambrox super, said the company.

Also from InterParfums is the Guess Uomo line. Uomo Intenso represents what marketers call sophisticated, irresistible and daring. The amber fougere fragrance opens with a blend of Italian bergamot, mint leaf, ozone and herbaceous armoise. Middle notes include French lavender, Spanish thyme, orange blossom, spicy cinnamon bark and sage. Dry-down notes are tonka bean and sandalwood.

“Crafted for daring thrill-seekers on a life-long quest for adventure, Guess Uomo Intenso is a fresh, adrenaline-filled scent anchored in a warm base of sensual masculinity that ignites the senses and pushes the boundaries to uncharted territories,” said Guess Uomo Intenso Perfumer Jean Marc Chaillan, of IFF. 

The classic Uomo bottle was redesigned into a lacquered deep black structured glass bottle with a reflective silver label to create eye-catching appeal per the makers. Further, the bottle’s faceted sides and the marble pattern featured on the box draw inspiration from Italian architecture.

The original MCM Eau de Parfum juice is being reimagined into a luxurious parfum concentration and bejeweled with approximately 1,100 handcrafted Swarovski crystals. The long-lasting vegan floral woody fragrance is infused with raspberry, hand-picked jasmine and woody notes of Ambrox Super. 

According to MCM, over 50% of its sustainably sourced Naturals Together ingredients make a positive social impact on local communities all over the world.

MCM Limited Edition Parfum with Swarovski crystals will be available globally with a retail price of $1,800 for 50ml.

At press time, news broke of a private label fragrance collection launching at InterParfums. According to reports, the Solférino line will be comprised of 10 premium fragrances. Products will be sold at a boutique in Paris as well as online.

The Estée Lauder Companies (ELC) and Balmain’s new Les Éternels de Balmain fragrance is said to be “powered by a richly crafted duality of ingredients.” The scents span four distinctive olfactive families–musk, amber, floral and woody.

“Balmain Beauty is forging a new, avant-garde space in luxury beauty that celebrates the legacy and inclusive spirit of the iconic house of Balmain,” said Guillaume Jesel, who oversees Balmain Beauty as the president and CEO of Tom Ford and Luxury Business Development at ELC. “Olivier Rousteing is one of the most accomplished designers of his generation, inventing revolutionary concepts at the confluence of past, present and future. It has been an extraordinary journey bringing his vision for Balmain Beauty to life.”

The collection’s packaging is inspired by Balmain’s first flacon created in 1946. It has contrasting elemental shapes of the circle and square, signature black and gold colors, and the label spread over two facets. The new flacon delivers a multisensory and luxurious modern experience—the square is elongated, the Balmain signature rayure covering the glass echoes the gold collar’s existing texture and a new finish and color palette flatters the touch and the eye. On the cap, a graphic PB monogram symbolizes Balmain, extracted from the iconic 1970 brand labyrinth motif.

Natura is expanding its personal care offerings with a new fragrance line called Ekos Ryos. The new Natura Ekos perfume line features three sustainable and clean perfumes.

Ekos Fragrances encapsulate the forest in a single drop, said the company. Scents are enriched with aromatic oils from the biodiversity of the largest tropical forest. The fragrances include Ryo Vivo, an aquatic floral; Ryo Chuva, a citrus scent; and Ryo Fiesta with woody notes.

Editions de Parfums Frédéric Malle has added a new diamond to its Desert Gems collection: Hope. The fragrance joins The Night, Promise, The Moon and Dawn. Hope highlights the nobility of an oud essence and celebrates the olfactory sensorial richness of Middle Eastern perfumery, per marketers. Crafted by master perfumer Dominique Ropion, the new amber-like, woody fragrance combines pink peppercorn, cypress and juniper with smoky, leathery notes of incense and vetiver.

The Future of Fragrance

Digital olfaction company Osmo launched “Fragrance 2o,” which it bills as an initiative merging the creativity of perfumery with the latest advancements in chemistry and AI. Osmo’s Fragrance 2o Beta Program is accepting briefs from fine fragrance brands in US and European markets. The program is designed for brands launching fragrances next year.

With Osmo’s AI models, brands can iterate and create faster, reduce time-to-shelf and gain significant market advantage, per the brand. Whether digitizing real-world scents or crafting new ones, Osmo says its technology helps brands innovate with speed and precision.

YSL Beauty’s latest fragrances are crafted not only to elevate the consumer’s most memorable moments but also to enhance those intimate, restful hours before sleep. 

The new Libre Flowers & Flames is a floral fragrance that dries down with a burst of a creamy coco-palm tree flower melted with a spicy and solar lily flower. For men, MYSLF Le Parfum boasts a rich blend of woody-floral and spicy vanilla bourbon notes, using a blend of orange blossom, warm woods, and spicy black pepper—an unforgettable combination that deepens as one drifts off to sleep, according to the brand. 

Spate cites “vanilla body mist” as a rising trend in fragrance. The trend of vanilla body mist is characterized by very low volume and low competition, yet maintaining an upward growth trajectory. The search for ingredients like bourbon and sugar alongside vanilla body mist offers opportunity for variations in this fragrance experience. Brands can differentiate themselves with body mists combining vanilla with other scents for a unique and indulgent experience, according to Spate. 

The Estée Lauder Companies recently revealed a new scientific research collaboration with TUD Dresden University of Technology and its Smell & Taste Clinic, Department of Otorhinolaryngology, and Professor Thomas Hummel, a leader in olfactory science.

The multi-year research collaboration explores the neurological connections between fragrance and emotion. Research findings will be leveraged by ELC’s scientists and product developers to inform fragrance product and packaging innovation, consumer experiences, marketing claims and more. 

“Scents have long been associated with emotions and have a powerful connection to wellness,” said Sumit Bhasin, senior vice president, corporate fragrance R&D, product development and innovation, ELC. “As consumer interest in the functional benefits of fragrance continues to accelerate, we are thrilled to be the first prestige beauty company to partner with Dr. Hummel and a leading academic institution, the TUD Dresden University of Technology, on neuroscience research that will provide us with deeper insights into how fragrance plays a role in evoking nostalgia.” 

This collaborative research spans several advanced measurement science approaches that assess the neuropathways associated with scent, psychometric and physiological analyses, brain imaging studies and more to assess the correlation between scent and emotions, according to ELC. It will build upon existing studies the company completed on fragrance’s functional benefits.

Key learnings will be used at ELC’s R&D facilities worldwide, including its Paris-based Atelier, a new co-creation space opening in early 2025 exclusively focused on fragrance innovation and craftsmanship. 

“There is a unique opportunity for academia and industry to partner together to explore the power of scent,” said Hummel. “We are proud to partner with a fragrance powerhouse like The Estée Lauder Companies with a proven commitment to science and the continuous advancement of innovation.”