Controversy loves company. Maybe that helps explain the record attendance at the 20th Biannual Sunscreen Symposium sponsored by the Florida Chapter of the Society of Cosmetic Chemists. The Symposium attracted nearly 800 attendees, 35 posters and 19 expert speakers. The industry came together amid concerns over efficacy testing discrepancies in Australia and rising skin cancer rates in the US, and the promise of a new UV filter approval by the US FDA.

“It was an incredible turnout—especially considering that competing events, IFSCC Congress in Cannes and MakeUp New York, were held the same week. This level of engagement directly reflects our industry’s ongoing drive for innovation and progress,” observed FLSCC Chair Teresa Fleming.

From small improvements, like printing the agenda on the back of name badges, to major parts of the program such as exhibitor setup, welcome reception, poster presentations, general session room, A/V quality, technical talks, Friday night gala and the golf outing—the feedback was overwhelmingly positive, explained Fleming.

Symposium Improvements

A significant enhancement this year was relocating the technical presentations from Asbury Hall (over 8,200 sq. ft.) to the Newport Ballroom (over 16,000 sq. ft.), offering attendees a more comfortable experience during the outstanding lineup of technical talks. 

“It was incredibly heartwarming to see a fantastic mix of first-time attendees and repeat attendees, including previous speakers, moderators, SCC leaders, including several former FLSCC chairs and Area IV directors, in attendance,” said Fleming. “The continued engagement of our scientific community is a testament to the value and relevance of the Symposium, as well as the FLSCC’s commitment to bringing cutting-edge insights and fresh perspectives. Beyond fostering innovation, the Symposium consistently delivers the most up-to-date content on the legal, regulatory, safety and environmental topics of importance to our industry—ensuring that attendees leave not only inspired but better equipped to navigate the evolving landscape of suncare science.”

The 2027 Sunscreen Symposium is set for Sept. 29 to Oct.1, 2027. To ensure adequate meeting space and hotel rooms, incoming 2026-27 FLSCC Chair Krupa Koestline said that the location will be the Walt Disney World Swan and Dolphin.

But back to current events, the opening session, moderated by Cubie Lamb, director of research, J. Strickland, featured a fireside chat between Dakota Green, founder, Vacation suncare and podcaster Jessica Matlin. Vacation came under scrutiny from the US Food and Drug Administration earlier this year. The company received an FDA Warning Letter for its Vacation Classic Whip SPF 30 foaming sunscreen. FDA does not authorize “the marketing of a sunscreen in foam (aka, mousse or whipped cream) dosage form.” For the record, Vacation wasn’t the only sunscreen maker to receive a Warning Letter for marketing a mousse-type product. SuperGoop! received a letter, too.

Still, Green seemed unfazed by FDA’s action. 

“It was kind of cool to go through the process of answering the Warning Letter,” he told Matlin. “It’s what we hope the government would do in regulating this space.”

Ever an optimist, Green insists Vacation is looking at all options to deliver the mousse product. 

“We think it can lead to people applying the right amount of sunscreen more often,” said Green. “We want a dialogue with FDA to find a resolution to keep the product on the market.”

On a positive note, Vacation’s After Sun won The Fragrance Foundation’s Fragrance of the Year in the Popular category. It was created by perfumer Rodrigo Flores-Roux, with support from Carlos Huber and the Vacation team. After Sun’s scent was inspired by “the sensation of being warm from the sun, stepping into a cool shower, and wrapping up in fresh linen.”

Creating a novel scent is part of Vacation’s plan to increase sunscreen usage, explained Green. 

“We want to create anticipation for a sunscreen. ‘I really want to put on sunscreen,’ said no one ever,” Green said. “The real goal is reapplication. That’s the true measure of what we are trying to create.”

And create a brand that stands the test of time. Vacation got its start with the purchase of the Orange Gelee trademark. It reformulated the product, including the fragrance, with help from Bobbi Brown and others.

“People who loved the original Orange Gelee told us we got it right,” recalled Green. “We want Vacation to last beyond ourselves. Hawaiian Tropic outlived Ron Rice. We want Vacation to outlive us.”

Viral, Not Valid

Immortality isn’t everything. Ava Perkins, a doctoral candidate and influencer, explained how social media posts create a toxic environment for sound science. She pointed to one report claimed only 25% of sunscreens on-shelf are safe. Consumers relay incorrect information to one another via word-of-mouth or online.

“Why does misinformation happen?” asked Perkins rhetorically. “Because people can post whatever they want, whenever they want. A lot of people have a goal of going viral.”

The biggest threat from misinformation? Reduced sunscreen use, unsafe swaps (think beef tallow), increased skin cancer risk, regulatory confusion, overall distrust in science and amplified inequities. And the biggest threat to misinformation? Doctors, scientists, public figures, politicians and news outlets. They reach many people and can have a big impact, noted Perkins. 

Benjamin Schwartz, AAK, explained how oxidative rates of organic UV filters vary with the stability of the carrier oil. In a four-week study, researchers found the stability of Homosalate and Avobenzone stability is largely unaffected by the carrier choice. In contrast, Octocrylene is impacted by carrier choice. 

Protection for All

Jeffrey Field, Florida Skincare Testing, urged attendees to look beyond erythema when creating and testing sunscreens. Too many tests don’t take all Fitzpatrick skin types into consideration. For more inclusive testing, he called for enlisting a full spectrum of skin types for product testing (I-VI); measure changes in pigmentation as additional metrics for darker skin tones that are outside method requirements; and measure skin tone uniformity.

“We need to change the perception that darker skin tones don’t need protection, because they do,” concluded Field. “We as an industry should seek to formulate products designed for all types of skin.”

He insisted there is no one-size-fits-all solution. But incorporating additional parameters into sunscreen efficacy studies such as changes in pigmentation using full spectrum light, can help address these gaps.

“Approximately 2/3 of the global population is under protected and their unique needs are not represented in the marketplace,” concluded Field.

Marcella Gabarra PhD, TRI Princeton, detailed the impact of external temperature on sunscreen efficacy and testing. The test involved an SPF 100 commercial sunscreen topically applied three times over six hours to simulate consumer use. Temperatures tested were 20°C, 32°C and 42°C. The penetration of UV filters (Avobenzone, 3%; Homosalate, 15%; Octisalate, 5%; Octocrylene, 10% and Oxybenzone, 6%) was evaluated by confocal Raman spectroscopy and HPLC. 

Gabarra concluded organic sunscreens penetrate the stratum corneum. Furthermore, external temperature significantly impacts the penetration of UV filters. Future research will evaluate encapsulated/modified UV filter efficacy at high (42°C) temperatures, and a clinical evaluation of sunscreen products via spectroscopic methods. 

The final speaker of the session, Brian Bodnar of L’Oréal, detailed his company’s quest for a mineral sunscreen suitable for all skin tones. He noted that formulators can choose from more than 100 different mineral UV filter raw materials worldwide. L’Oréal’s selection criteria: non-whitening, UVA and UVB protection and easy to formulate. Identifying the right mineral filter involved three steps:

• Candidate Selection. Focus on the most likely candidates based on key characteristics (particle size, treatment and supply);
• Formula Processing. Formula must be adaptable and reproducible (flexible W/O formula and automated processing); and
• Performance Evaluation. Evaluate whitening and ease-of-use (spectroscopic method, controlled application and controlled substrate).

The selected material was zinc oxide. Bodnar noted that deposit homogeneity is vital to control for high SPF. He also provided formulation principles for mineral sunscreens:

• Processing. Ensure adequate dispersion and wetting of filters;
• Solvents. Optimize for wetting and aesthetics during application;
• Polymers & Surfactants. Consider interactions with mineral filters, aesthetics and stability; and
• Powder. Consider impact on whitening and impact on aesthetics and stability.

“New architecture yields higher SPF vs. other formulas with the same level of UV filter,” concluded Bodnar. “Improvement in SPF could be related to improved homogeneity of deposit.”

L’Oréal used confocal microscopy to view changes in total absorbance.

“Our dream was to create non-whitening high SPF mineral sunscreen,” concluded Bodnar. “Good science addresses and answers technical issues. Great science answers questions and generates more questions. Yes, it is important to get the homogeneity of the formula right. But is it fun to apply? At L’Oréal we want consumers to wear sunscreen that is easy to apply.”

Donuts & Absorption

Mark Chandler, ACT Solutions, opened the afternoon session with a rollicking presentation. He started with a confession— at one time, he thought donuts were baked, “and not that bad for you!” His admission emboldened him to rethink one-time tenets such as: Emollients control emulsion aesthetics and TiO2 and ZnO offer UV protection via scattering!

“What I should have known, is that donuts are deep-fried and not all that good for you!” noted Chandler. “What we should have known is that emulsifiers control all rub-out and half of after-feel aesthetics. And inorganic sunscreen actives protect primarily via absorption.”

He suggested finding a “middle ground for a broader perspective.” That is, use middle-sized TiO2 (just under 100nm primary particle size). In liquid foundation makeup with sun protection, middle-sized titanium dioxide balances absorption and scattering for coverage (UVB, UVA and Uvvis). Zinc oxide-based sunscreens provide a boost in UVA and SPF. Titanium dioxide-based sunscreens allow for use of super-UVB attenuating TiO2. Chandler also noted that hybrid organic/inorganic systems provide UVA protection and an SPF boost.

In closing, Chandler urged attendees to “negate nano negativism.”

He warned that when formulas are marketed as “non-nano,” it encourages competitors and zealous attorneys, to study a formula’s primary particle size. If there are, indeed, nano-sized particles in a formula, it could trigger a class-action lawsuit.

“Be wise about how you communicate with consumers,” Chandler warned.

Formulating with ZnO

Yannnick Rigg, Vizor, provided tips on formulating high SPF zinc oxide products. 

“Too much information is never enough,” he told attendees. “An afternoon in the library or with ChatGPT is worth it. It has been done, find it. Don’t re-create the wheel, but don’t copy either; make it better.”

Most importantly, said Rigg, the formulation process should start with a “technologically advanced zinc oxide. Watch for film uniformity and thickness. Other factors that contribute to high SPF include a thixotropic formula that contains antioxidants to quench electrons. Conversely, factors that contribute to low SPF include poorly suspended and very small particle size zinc oxide, charged molecules and poor rheology.

“Most silicones are quite detrimental to achieving high SPF,” he warned. “Use as little as possible.”

Rigg noted that skin is neither flat nor smooth. An oil-in-water emulsion that inverts on the skin upon application forms a continuous oil/zinc film. 

“SPF products are complex systems,” he concluded. “Optimize the ingredients in your formula in order to form a continuous uniform film that will protect the skin and prevent sunburn.”

SPF Boosters 

Julian Hewitt, JPH Suncare Technologies, proudly noted this was his 14th Sunscreen Symposium, and detailed elements of his presentation, “Efficacy of SPF boosters with physical sunscreens.” He reminded attendees that a uniform film plays a key role in product efficacy. 

“Insufficient film-forming, whether uneven or even non-existent in some cases, limits your SPF. It doesn’t matter how much active you have in your formula.”

Examples of SPF-boosting film-formers include: Galactoarabinan, maleated soybean oil glyceryl/octyldodecanol esters, polyesters, capryloyl glycerin/sebacic acid copolymers, hydrolyzed wheat protein/PVP crosspolymer, poly C10-30 alkyl acrylate and lignin polymers. SPF-boosting rheological additives include: waxes (in W/O emulsions or anhydrous systems, hectorite clays, polyamides and dextrin palmitate. SPF-boosting light scattering particles include: silica, alumina (platelet form), styrene/acrylates copolymer, Copernicia Cerifera Wax (and) Oryza Sativa Wax, microcrystalline cellulose, rice bran wax powder, carnauba wax powder and lignin polymers.

Measuring White Cast

Alexandra M. Maldonado Lopez, Good Molecules, detailed Standardized In Vitro and In Vivo Scoring Methods for Measuring White Cast of Mineral Sunscreens. The goal? Improve Sunscreen Compliance Across Diverse Skin Tones. She noted white casts are due to ZnO and TiO2 particle aggregates. The larger the agglomerate, the more direct impact on UVR absorption and resulting SPF value, and the more obvious the white cast. However, there is no official method to objectively measure white cast. Lopez’s object was to create a procedure for determining and recording the white cast of mineral sunscreens containing ZnO. 

The in vivo closed-label, double-blind study fixed six 3.0 x 3.0 cm silicone squares on the forearms. Three based CIEL *a*b* measurements were taken. Research staff applied test formulation. After application, a 15-minute rest period was observed to let the formulations set on their skin before repeating CIEL *a*b* measurements.

The in vitro method used artificial skin cut into 6.0 x 6.0cm squares and hydrated. The skin was inserted into a slide mount and placed on top of an acrylic sheet to produce a dark background before taking three CIEL*a*b* baseline color measurements. Each test formulation was applied to a distinct piece of vitro skin. After application, a 15-minute rest period was observed to let the formulations set on the skin before repeating CIEL*a*b* measurements.

Researchers found higher ZnO percentages (20-30%) had unacceptable white casts. The 5% ZnO test formulation and benchmark formulations fell into different scores in vivo and in vitro (threshold v. reasonable white cast, respectively), even though the volunteers could not visually distinguish between them.

Animal Alternatives

David Allen, International Collaboration on Cosmetic Safety (ICCS), noted more bans are in place on animal safety testing. The goal of ICCS is to create and promote next generation risk assessments (NGRA). They are based on the strategic use of nonanimal methods. They consider use scenarios and exposure. The aim is protection of human health and the environment, not prediction of animal models.

“Acceptance of this requires the demonstration of its consumer-protective application in the form of hypothetical case studies using nine NGRA principles,” said Allen.

NGRA principles are:

• The overall goal is human safety risk assessment;
• The assessment is exposure-led;
• The assessment is hypothesis driven;
• The assessment is designed to prevent harm;
• Follow an appropriate appraisal of existing information;
• Use a tiered and iterative approach;
• Use robust and relevant methods and strategies;
• Sources of uncertainty should be characterized and documented; and
• The logic of the approach should be transparent and documented.

He called NGRA an exposure-led, hypothesis-driven risk assessment approach that integrates in silico, in chemico and in vitro approaches.

“Many case studies have been published, or are under development, which provide examples of using NGRA,” said Allen. “Only by building confidence in the use of non-animal methods and NGRA for regulators and end-users, will we achieve a paradigm shift.”

A New UV Filter for the US

DSM-Firmenich’s Carl D’Ruiz chronicled the arduous journey of getting a sunscreen approved in the US. Parsol Shield (Bemotrizinol, BEMT, 6%) is already approved in virtually every country on earth. DSM-Firmenich expects to see a Proposed Order before the end of 2025 and FDA to issue a Final Order in June 2026.

“DSM-Firmenich is setting a regulatory precedent by sponsoring the first-ever FDA GRASE determination via Tier 1 OMOR for Parsol Shield,” explained D’Ruiz. “It’s the first UV filter to be approved by FDA in more than 25 years and paves the way for future, consumer-friendly GRASE-compliant sunscreens.”

BMT provides broad-spectrum coverage (UVA1, UVA2 and UVB). It addresses the 320nm wavelength “gap” not covered by other UV filters. It has high photostability and synergy with existing filters and has a proven global safety and efficacy record, noted D’Ruiz. DSM-Firmenich’s 18-month exclusivity for Parsol Shield begins post-FO requirements.

ZnO-Based Sunscreens

Jeroen van den Bosch, Uviva Technologies, reviewed zinc oxide-based systems and in vitro SPF test methods. He acknowledged that in vitro challenges have been known for decades, but they are more relevant now due to new ISO methods. He told attendees that residual film thickness on PMMA plates is a key element.

“Stronger focus is needed on residual film thickness on PMMA plates. The impact of high ZnO levels on residual film thickness is very significant,” said van den Bosch. “High ZnO-based systems are in a class of their own. They are fundamentally different than ‘chemical sunscreen-based’ systems.”

That’s because its high density is combined with significantly lower “oil” to spread on a PMMA plate.

UV Filter Safety

Kim Norman, Personal Care Products Council, presented toxicological assessment results of six UV filters, including Avobenzone, Ensulizole, Homosalate, Octinoxate, Octisalate and Octocrylene. PCPC conducted a literature review of clinical and nonclinical studies. It developed a comprehensive summary of toxicology data and human exposure assessment, and performed risk characterization analysis with Margin of Safety calculations. Norman and her co-authors concluded Mode of Action and exposure assessment suggests UV filters do not pose cancer risk to humans.

“Existing data for all six UV filters suggest no genotoxicity and no evidence of biologically-relevant carcinogenic MOAs,” concluded Norman. “Systemic exposure levels in humans are well below concentrations at which they show biologic activity. Data support the continued safe use of these UV filters in sunscreen products.”

It’s one thing for science to conclude something is safe; getting science-deficient consumers to concur, is another. Pablo Canama, Helioscience, said 14% of people under 35 think sunscreen is more harmful to the skin than direct sun exposure. And 54% of French consumers consider the ecological impact of sunscreens is an obstacle to their use. Canama reviewed various sunscreen bans in effect around the world, including the US, Aruba and Thailand. Palau went so far as to ban all sunscreens, except titanium dioxide and zinc oxide.

These and other factors led to the proliferation of “reef-friendly” claims on sunscreen labels. Helioscience proposed a new non-destructive ecotoxicity test on corals to determine the impact of sunscreen and cosmetic formulas. It measures growth inhibition and bleaching, as well as acute toxicity (72 hours) and chronic toxicity (14 days). Helioscience can complete the test in 15 days for just 850 euros.

“Corals are animals. We stop testing when the coral starts bleaching. We don’t kill the coral and we only test finished products,” explained Canama. 

No symposium is complete without a presentation on artificial intelligence. David Demarijian, Midwest Bioprocessing, explained how AI can be used to create new molecules for sunscreen “and any other industry.”

“Developing new molecules is like finding a needle in a haystack,” he explained. “There are millions of possible molecules. So testing is slow and costly.”

He likened AI to a detective. It scans thousands of clues to highlight the few worth investigating. Of course, AI can be undone by bad data. And synthesis presents its own group of challenges.

“The benefits to the cosmetic chemist are faster discovery and safer, greener, more stable molecules,” he concluded.

At the conclusion of the Symposium, FLSCC Chair Fleming, told Happi:

“I truly believe we couldn’t have designed a better program than the one that came together organically. We’re extremely grateful to all who contributed. The technical presentations were a standout for me. I’m incredibly thankful to our educational speakers, keynote presenters, moderators and technical contributors who made this portion of the event so impactful.”

Hundreds of FLSCC Sunscreen Symposium attendees agree.

For a review of the SCC Continuing Education Program, which preceded the Symposium, visit Happi.com.