Dear Valerie: I’m looking for a green tea extract standardized with epigallocatechin gallate (EGCG). Is a higher EGCG content always better for antioxidant protection, or can too much cause instability or irritation in formulas? —TEA TIME

Hi Tea, 
Hopefully you’ve been keeping up with Dear Valerie and are well-versed on my feelings of plant extracts. If not, I’ll get you up to speed in one sentence: I’m a huge fan of standardized extracts that contain known quantities of valuable components. I appreciate you’re seeking a green tea extract that contains significant levels. I understand you may have concern that some magnitude may be too high, as some antioxidants are thought to be pro-oxidants at certain levels. I’m not aware of any such level of EGCG, and believe that—in this case—more is more when it comes to EGCG content.

Please remember that really good antioxidants are so good they tend to react quickly, so work closely with your compounding team to ensure adequate incorporation in production and quick filling. Furthermore, don’t let your purchasing team be tempted by a generous price break at a larger pack size than necessary. Only purchase what you need for the production run because it would be a shame to have the balance of the material oxidize in storage.

Valerie George is a cosmetic chemist, science communicator, educator, leader, and avid proponent of transparency in the beauty industry. She works on the latest research in hair color and hair care at her company, Simply Formulas, and is the co-host of The Beauty Brains podcast. You can find her on Instagram at @cosmetic_chemist or showcasing her favorite ingredients to small brands and home formulators at simply-ingredients.com