With today’s consumer more health conscious than ever, from being ingredient savvy to eating organic, people are relishing the idea of living longer, fuller lives. This ethos has prompted the beauty industry’s pivotal new trend that is on everyone’s lips: longevity. 

“Longevity is one of the fastest growing movements in the beauty and wellness industries,” said Dr. Nadine Pernodet, senior vice president, bioscience, advanced technology pioneering and Estée Lauder lead scientist. “Extended life expectancy is shifting the conversation from lifespan to health span as we age. When it comes to beauty, this offers the opportunity to gain a deeper understanding of extending the health span and vitality of skin cells. Skin, as the largest organ, plays a critical role in conveying overall vitality, which is a huge opportunity for the beauty industry.”

A HARD LOOK AT THE SKINCARE MARKET 
Check out Circana’s skincare sales data for total US multi-outlet
(supermarkets, drugstores, mass market retailers, military commissaries and
select club and dollar retail chains) for the 52 weeks ended Dec. 1, 2024.

	$ Sales		Unit Sales		Price/Unit
Product	Current	% Change vs YA	Current	% Change vs YA	Current	% Change vs YA
Aisle-Skin Care	$15,514,556,649	3.8%	1,357,310,438	0.8%	$11.43	2.9%
Skin Care	$9,102,567,362	2.7%	724,179,643	0.6%	$12.57	2.1%
Facial Cleanser	$2,661,871,715	0.8%	302,821,944	-3.4%	$8.79	4.4%
Anti-Aging—Facial	$2,416,061,129	2.8%	116,106,742	1.4%	$20.81	1.5%
Facial Moisturizers	$2,109,091,227	-2.1%	121,020,312	-0.9%	$17.43	-1.2%
Acne Treatments	$1,565,057,956	16.1%	152,984,068	12.9%	$10.23	2.8%
Depilatories	$198,888,144	-7.7%	23,323,916	-8.2%	$8.53	0.6%
Fade/Bleach	$138,497,885	-1.8%	7,419,463	-8.6%	$18.67	7.4%
Anti-Aging—Body	$13,099,306	-18.5%	503,198	-15.0%	$26.03	-4.1%
Hand & Body Lotion	$3,919,077,593	7.0%	428,626,919	1.6%	$9.14	5.3%
Suntan Products	$2,492,911,695	2.8%	204,503,877	0.0%	$12.19	2.9%
Suntan Lotion & Oil	$2,491,549,905	2.8%	204,379,950	-0.1%	$12.19	2.9%
Sunscreen/Insect Repellant	$1,361,790	1576.3%	123,927	1664.2%	$10.99	-5.0%

This year, it is estimated that the world’s population will comprise 2.1 billion people aged 60 and over, per research by the Openstreams Foundation. To gain a cross-cultural perspective to challenge society’s perception of aging while prompting the need for strategic solutions to support an aging world, Openstreams in December hosted a Global Beauty Industry Summit at the United Nations Headquarters in New York City to dissect the aging process and offer insights into the beauty industry’s changing landscape. 

“Anti-aging doesn’t mean anything to me,” said Andrea Nagel, senior vice president, Cosmetic Executive Women, at The Aging Forum. “With the younger generation, it’s definitely important to evolve the language. Brands evolve with us using uplifting language instead of talking about the negative, which could be sagging. By omitting age references overall, you can really bring a message of inclusiveness.”

Skincare Education

Global skincare sales reached $125 billion in 2024, and will climb to $220.75 billion by 2029, according to Research and Markets. Analysts say the growth is driven by consumers who tirelessly seek information about, and more efficacious products for, their unique skin concerns. 

While that’s great news for business, beauty experts caution consumers on knowing their limits. The Sephora Kids phenomenon, for example, gained notoriety after children younger than 10 requested age-inappropriate skincare products like retinol from their parents after being enthralled and coaxed by various product demonstration videos on TikTok. During National Healthy Skin Month (November), dermatologists blew the whistle on various viral skin care trends, namely, red-light therapy and products that create the coveted “glass skin” effect. They admonish these practices create unrealistic beauty standards and do more harm than good. 

“Certain aspects of the glass skin trend like moisturizing your skin and using a broad-spectrum, water-resistant sunscreen with an SPF of 30 or higher are positive steps toward better skincare habits,” said Dr. Amit Om, a dermatologist in Charlotte, NC. “But the glass skin look might not be realistic for everyone, and some people may run the risk of using too many products, which can lead to issues like clogged pores, irritation and breakouts.”

She advised consumers interested in using a red-light device at home to reverse hair loss or improve skin texture, for example, should consult a dermatologist to determine the type of treatment that works best for their skin concern and type. To educate age groups on proper skincare, she suggested brands tap into digital tools like AI-based skincare assessments to help them determine their skin type and needs so that they are prescribed the most relevant ingredients. 

Last year, Perfect Corp launched its AI Skincare Production Recommendation tool. The feature utilizes AI to accelerate, streamline and simplify the setup process for skincare brands using its AI Skin Analysis technology. It identifies which skincare concerns a brand’s products aim to target. By leveraging product names, descriptions, images and categories, the tool identifies which concerns should be matched to each product based on established logic and data. It significantly reduces the manual configuration time, according to the company. Retailers and brands can utilize the took to generate these product category appointments in bulk, assigning skin concerns to dozens of products in their catalogs all at once. Perfect Corp Founder and CEO Alice Chang said the tool will revolutionize the skincare shopping experience. 

The L’Oréal Groupe aims to revolutionize consumer skin intelligence rooted in longevity science. Last month, during CES 2025, L’Oréal unveiled Cell BioPrint, hardware that analyzes skin in five minutes. Cell BioPrint uses advanced proteomics, the study of how protein composition in the human body affects skin aging. The “lab-on-a-chip” device uses cutting-edge science to enable consumers to understand their skin’s trajectory and gain insights into the skincare that works best for their particular needs. The technology, coupled with L’Oréal’s Advanced Research team, identified unique protein biomarkers in the skin that can indicate key components of healthy-looking skin and longevity. It works by placing a facial tape strip on one’s cheek before placing it into a buffer solution, which gets loaded into the L’Oréal Cell BioPrint cartridge and inserted into a machine for analysis. A Skin Connect device then takes several images of one’s face and the user completes a brief questionnaire about skin concerns. 

Cell BioPrint was made possible through a partnership with Korean startup NanoEnTek and L’Oréal’s Longevity Integrative Scienceä, an approach that reveals how mechanisms in the human body can affect skin’s appearance. Of its many capabilities, Cell BioPrint calculates skin’s age and provides personalized advice on how to slow the appearance of aging; predicts potential cosmetic issues before they become visible, like dark spots, enabling users to take proactive steps to help protect the beauty of their skin; and minimizes guesswork by helping to predict responsiveness to certain ingredients like retinol. According to L’Oréal, a recent US survey of 2,000 skincare users revealed that nearly 80% relied on trial-and-error to determinate the skincare products that worked for them. The average person tried seven different cleansers before finding one that works. 

L’Oréal Cell BioPrint is scheduled to pilot with a L’Oréal brand in Asia later this year. 

Trends Shaping the Market 

BeautyHealth’s Skintuition report called the “medicalization of beauty” one of the trends set to grow the skin health landscape this year. Inline with AI, consumers continue to seek out companies and providers to see them as individuals with unique needs, turning to personalized skincare routines over the passé, “one-size-fits-all” paradigm of the past. 

Skincare enthusiasts place their trust in professionals and proven treatments to achieve their desired results. Gen Z and Millennials are more discerning than previous generations. With the rise of the “skintellectual consumer,” beauty enthusiasts empowered by science, data and skin health experts are more willing to try non-surgical aesthetic treatments. At the same time, consumers are embracing a “skinimalistic” attitude when it comes to their skincare routines. They’re incorporating fewer products and simpler, more efficient steps using products that deliver enhanced results. 

Per Front Row’s cultural trends report entitled, “The Future of Beauty & Wellness,” RoC Skincare is leveraging AI to deliver highly personalized and evolving skincare recommendations. Meanwhile, Haut.AI secured a patent for the same while anonymizing consumer data. Analysts say the idea of “hyper-personalized” recommendations are becoming the new norm. On Amazon, searches for “personalized” in the health and personal care category increased 45% year-over-year in the first half of 2024. Capitalizing on this increased interest, Oura’s March 2024 Amazon launch generated a reported $77.7 million in revenue in the first 10 months. 

Cellular Level Skincare 

Front Row also reported that beauty consumers are stacking their beauty and wellness habits overnight – making their sleep work double-duty in an effort to maximize beauty benefits. This phenomenon, called “sleepmaxxing,” involves applying  multiple products like overnight masks, bonnets, mouth tape and chin straps to bed to get the full effect of skin’s reparative nature while asleep. The Morning Shed trend, which involves consciously cutting beauty routines typically reserved for the morning and applying them at evening, saves consumers time in the morning for other enjoyable activities like an unhurried breakfast or hitting the gym or walking path before work. The Morning Shed trend had 75 million posts on TikTok in October 2024. 

Last summer, The Estée Lauder Companies rolled out its new Advanced Night Repair Overnight Treatment. Dubbed a “silky, second-skin texture formula,” its New ATPower Technology and exclusive “night peptide” optimizes skin’s natural rhythm of renewal, skin’s visible energy, moisture and barrier. The formula includes multi-molecular weight hyaluronic acid and polyglutamic acid for intense moisture recovery and a 13% lipid infusion for barrier recovery. According to clinical test results, skin looked 28% more radiant and 13% smoother after one application. 

Another clinical skincare brand tapping into the power of biotechnology is AV Laboratories. Created by a global team of chemists and molecular biologists led by CEO and Cofounders Ami and Monica Mezezi, the brand relies on stem cell research and applies it to high-end skincare innovations. The newest formulas include a face serum and face cream light. 

“Here’s an interesting fact we discovered in our 25 years of work in biotech. It’s very simple, but profound: Nutrients are the No. 1 most important factor for increasing cellular health,” Ami Mezezi told Happi. “When stem cells receive the exact nutrients they need, in the specific doses they require, they can renew, restore and rejuvenate at astounding levels. This is the key to unlocking healthy aging and longevity.” 

AV’s Face Serum is clinically proven to provide instant hydration, boost moisture and reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles. Powered by patented AVL SOM3 technology, it contains 16 active ingredients, including argireline, ferulic acid and vitamin E. AVL SOM3 is the brand’s longevity technology, which provides daily skin nutrition on the molecular level and is designed to support NAD+ levels and increase skin rejuvenation while increasing barrier function and lowering cellular damage, Mezezi told Happi. 

“As we age, our cellular function slows,” said Mezezi. “We experience this as our skin thins, loose and saggy. Dryness, wrinkles, inflammation, redness and pigmentation all start to appear. In fact, while skin regenerates every 28 days in our 20s and 30s, by the time we are 50, it can take 75-80 days. However, when these cells receive the exact nutrients they need, in exactly the right doses, the skin can thrive and we can experience more youthful-looking, radiant skin.”

In a 28-day clinical trial, 100% of participants observed firmer skin and 96% agreed it reduced the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles. The brand’s companion product, Face Cream Light, is clinically proven to hydrate and enhance skin barrier function. Formulated with AVL SOM3, the Face Cream Light comprises a blend of complexion-boosting essentials including niacinamide, bifida ferment lysate, antioxidant-rich persea gratissima oil and pyrus malus seed oil. Face Cream Light works to prevent the appearance of fine lines, wrinkles and hyperpigmentation while improving tone and smoothing skin texture.

The Beauty of Methylene Blue  

In January, Renue by Science touted its new anti-aging skincare range, Renue Blue, the “new face of longevity.” The line features advanced nanoliposome technology designed to deliver regenerative benefits deep into skin. The formulations include NAD+ boosters known to promote skin rejuvenation. Other ingredients include Nicotinamide Mononucleotide and Nicotinamide Riboside, alongside a novel antioxidant, Methylene Blue, the hero ingredients and inspiration for the line. All are said to to be scientifically validated to support cellular health and enhance skin vitality. 

Renue by Science CEO Bryan Nettles said the innovations meet demand for topical skincare applications of NAD+. 

“With Renue Blue, we’re not just offering skincare products; we’re providing a comprehensive, research-driven solution for forward-thinking individuals who want to optimize their skincare routine while promoting overall wellness and skin longevity,” Nettles said.

January also saw the introduction of biotech skincare brand Mother Science’s Molecular Genesis Barrier Repair Moisturizer. The brand claims it is the first and only skincare brand using Malassezin, an agonist of the aryl hydrocarbon receptor. This tryptophan metabolite is produced by the yeast Malassezia furfur, which is commonly found on human skin. Malassezin induces apoptosis in primary human melanocytes. A novel molecule naturally occurring on skin, it works at the cellular level to fortify and repair the skin barrier. Mother Science maintains it is the first company to patent the material for use in skincare. With over seven years of research, extensive laboratory studies and four clinical trials, Mother Science data has been published in peer-reviewed journals including Journal of the American Academy of Dermatology 2021 and Journal of Drugs in Dermatology 2022. 

“We were blown away by Malassezin’s unique ability to dramatically repair the skin barrier and knew that we wanted to create this product,” said cofounders of Mother Science, Mike Einziger and Ann Marie Simpson-Einziger.

In utilizing Malassezin’s unique multi-pathway approach, Molecular Genesis Barrier Repair Moisturizer is said to strengthen barrier cells by increasing essential proteins that make up the barrier and improve their linkage; boost lipid production for superior water retention; and activate skin’s antioxidant defenses against damaging free radicals related to skin barrier breakdown.

The formula includes synthetic growth factors that mimic those found naturally in skin to increase collagen, support elastin and visibly diminish fine lines and wrinkles while firming skin. It also contains copper peptides to visibly firm skin, improve fine lines and wrinkles, and reduce redness to soothe skin. Hyaluronic acid binds water to the skin barrier for short-term hydration and helps regenerate lipids to support skin barrier for long-term hydration. Squalane acts as an emollient providing a protective barrier to the skin in the short-term and, in the long-term, acts as an antioxidant to neutralize free radicals and support skin barrier health. A lipid concentrate helps restore skin barrier lipids and prevent moisture loss to increase hydration.

Impressive Results  

In clinical studies, after four weeks of use, all subjects had a measured improvement in skin hydration and skin barrier function. Similarly, 100% said their skin was smoother; 94% said their skin was firmer; and 100% stated their skin feels more hydrated when compared with their usual moisturizer.

Skincare isn’t just about preserving the face. Consumers want their anti-aging products to extend to the décollage and entire body so their skin tone and texture “match” from the neck down.   But ingredients are just as much about environmental preservation and sustainability as they are about combating wrinkles and dryness. 

This year, MakeUp In tradeshows are plunging into ocean beauty. “Blue Beauty” will be everywhere this year. The movement will highlight how marine-derived resources can transform beauty products with an emphasis on sustainability to protect and regenerate marine ecosystems. Ocean Beauty focuses on incorporating marine-sourced ingredients such as seaweed, microalgae and ocean botanicals into beauty products. Beyond formulation, packaging will also be modeling sustainability with the use of recycled ocean plastics and biodegradable materials. 

Last month, Credo entered the body care category with a body cream, serum and wash. All contain sugar kelp extract ethically sourced in Maine by Atlantic Sea Farms. The formulas, created by KKT Labs, tout mineral-rich sea water and a ferment of spirulina, seaweed and sea lettuce. A few months ago, Credo launched private label formulas, including a microbiome-friendly cleansing duo and four moisturizers that improve skin texture and reduce the appearance of pores and wrinkles. In keeping with the trend of eco-conscious formulation, these products include upcycled vetiver root extract, which were ethically harvested by a local cooperative in Haiti. 

Bright Eyes

While facial skincare takes care of the wrinkles on cheeks and T-Zone, it’s easy to neglect the delicate eye area. In recent months, beauty brands have their eye on creams to keep peepers looking vibrant and awake. 

In January, Estée Lauder unveiled its newest innovation in the Re-Nutriv range called Re-Nutriv Ultimate Diamond Age Reversal Eye Crème. Developed with Sirtivity-LP technology, results are apparent after two weeks of use. The creme is based on new research addressing key irritation pathways, specific to supporting the needs of the delicate eye area skin, according to the brand. After 15 years of research, Estée Lauder says it discovered a series of significant skincare breakthroughs related to sirtuins and their role in healthy skin function and longevity. These discoveries led to the development of Re-Nutriv’s Sirtivity-LP, a key technology in the formula proven to slow down and reverse visible skin aging. 

 Last year, MAC Cosmetics unveiled an addition to its Hyper Real franchise: Hyper Real Serumizer Eye 360° Bright Eye Treatment. Hyper Real Serumizer Eye reveals revived, luminous eyes both instantly and over time, according to the brand. After three months of regular use, the radiance-boosting eye treatment visibly reduces dark circles around the eyes by 32%. Powered by the brand’s signature Hyper Real ingredients, Serumizer Eye features Japanese peony extract, niacinamide, ceramides and hyaluronic acid, plus vitamin C and peptides. On the topic of Japanese ingredients, Tatcha released its new innovation, The Brightening Eye Cream, one-half of its Brightening Collection, which also included a serum. Both formulas contain vitamin C-rich Japanese plum. Born out of the Japanese belief that a healthy glow comes from within, Japanese plum was once used in at-home beauty rituals to help brighten skin, creating an inner glow referred to in Japanese as “kagayaki.”

The Brightening Eye Cream is powered by Tatcha’s 12-hour time-release vitamin C. Depuffing bioferments and niacinamide reduce the look of three types of dark circles, according to the brand. The Brightening Eye Cream brightens, firms and lifts the eye area. The cream instantly illuminates with a “soft-focus” finish, which layers well with makeup. In a clinical study, in one week all subjects saw improvement in blue, brown or black dark circles; showed improvement in undereye puffiness; showed brighter and visibly firmer eye area skin; and improvement in the elasticity of the eye area.

This month, Deinde introduced Line-Smoothing Eye Cream to target fine lines and eye creases to smooth, soften and visibly plump the eye area while working to boost resilience against environmental stressors like the sun. Its 95% bio-based lightweight, rejuvenating eye cream utilizes the brand’s novel and patented biotech ingredient, Naringenin, which helps reduce inflammaging in skin cells by 96%. Naringenin is reportedly 15 times more powerful than niacinamide at interrupting inflammaging, per the brand. What’s more, in considering mindfulness of the Earth’s precious resources, Deinde’s lab-based approach advances more sustainable production. Biotech-derived Naringenin reduces the company’s reliance on extracting ingredients from the earth with 99% less water and 99% less land used than grapefruit-derived Naringenin. The brand’s eco-conscious manufacturing process is an example of carbon footprint reduction. At The Aging Forum, Dr. Cendy Wang of Bloomage Biotech urged product developers and innovators to consider the planet when formulating. 

“I think there is an implication of longevity that goes far beyond what we can think about our personal outcome,” offered Nicola Palmarini, director of the UK National Innovation Centre for Ageing. “It’s societal. And I think it’s for the future of the planet.”

Retinol Warriors 

Retinol is a hero skincare ingredient. It increases skin cell production, unclogs pores, exfoliates skin and increases collagen production. But its efficacy comes at a cost: redness, flaking, burning and irritation. These undesirable side effects keep many consumers from reaping the benefits of retinol. To calm their fears, Philosophy recruited Sarah Michelle Gellar, of “Buffy the Vampire Slayer,” fame to allay fear of retinol. 

To drive sales of Ultimate Miracle Worker Face & Neck Cream, Gellar starred in a horror short aimed at empowering prospective users to embrace clinical-strength retinol, without the “horror” of irritation.

“At Philosophy, we design our products to deliver real results, leveraging our decades of research and patented formulas with actives that don’t have to hurt to work. This commitment rings true with our new Ultimate Miracle Worker Face & Neck Cream and guided the direction of this campaign that skincare shouldn’t be scary—we’ll leave that to the movies,” said Andrea DiNunzio, general manager, luxury skincare at Philosophy.

Perricone MD also relies on 1990s TV star power to promote retinol. In January, Perricone MD enlisted 90210 alum Jennie Garth to promote new Triple Retinol Renewal face and eye serums. These additions to its High Potency Collection combine cutting-edge technology with clinically proven ingredients to deliver transformative results after one week of use, according to Perricone MD. 

A vocal advocate for wellness and self-care, Garth says she trusts the brand’s results-driven promise without the pain. 

“They’ve become essentials in both my morning and evening skincare routines,” said Garth. “No irritation, just results. My skin feels smoother, firmer and my skin has a natural glow.” 

A Proprietary blend 

The Triple Retinol Renewal face and eye serums contain Perricone MD’s proprietary triple retinol blend, combining three distinct forms of retinol—encapsulated retinol, retinol ester and phyto-retinol—for effective delivery and absorption, ensuring potent, yet gentle results. The retinol, touted for its “next-generation technology,” accelerates skin’s natural cellular turnover, revealing visibly firmer, plumper and collagen-rich skin. Perricone MD enhanced its signature retinol blend by incorporating coenzyme Q10. An antioxidant that neutralizes and shields skin from free radical damage. The result is a smoother, more resilient appearance with diminished visible signs of photoaging, including fine lines, wrinkles and discoloration, per the brand. Beta carotene stabilizes the retinol, reducing the look of redness and dullness to visibly deliver radiant, more even skin. 

“In an oversaturated market of retinol-based products, Perricone MD’s Triple Retinol Renewal serums stand apart,” said Jennifer Trovel, chief marketing officer of Perricone MD. “These serums offer our most powerful concentration of retinol, delivering unparalleled efficacy while eliminating the irritation typically associated with traditional retinol formulas. This product addresses a key consumer concern, offering results without compromise.”

Perricone MD isn’t the only company bullish about retinol. RoC Skincare recently rolled out Derm Correxion Firming Serum Stick. 

“Retinol is one of the most studied and effective ingredients in skincare for reducing visible signs of aging, and RoC Skincare has been a trailblazer in making this powerhouse ingredient accessible to all,” said Dermatologist Mark Strom. “Their stabilized retinol formulations offer the benefits of retinol with minimal irritation, a key factor in ensuring effective, long-term results for skin health. With their decades of research and innovation, RoC continues to elevate the efficacy and accessibility of retinol, helping people achieve smoother, firmer and more radiant skin.”

Wellbeing Campaigns

Besides selecting the most relevant skincare products for their skin’s unique needs, analysts at Front Row say beauty brands are helping consumers achieve emotional wellbeing, as they increasingly link internal wellbeing with physical health and appearance. 

Last fall, Ulta Beauty started a Joy Council led by Deepak Chopra, who was named the retail giant’s chief of joy. 

This month, Laura Geller Beauty launched its “Who Hasn’t?” campaign, an initiative dubbed a raw, relatable movement inviting women over 40 to own their aging stories to stir authentic dialogue about every aspect that may cause insecurities, from gray hairs to wrinkles. The campaign was inspired by an AARP survey that found that over half of women over 50 continue to feel pressure to meet beauty standards, yet exhibit remarkable empathy and a profound understanding of what each is going through. 

The Mental Health of Gen Alpha

Meanwhile, Dove is focused on Gen Alpha’s mental health. Its Gen A Anti-Aging Talk was created in the wake of Sephora Kids, which made children feel pressured to live up to the “absurd” beauty standards trumpeted on TikTok. The goal is to provide parents with resources to talk to their children about their beauty anxiety. 

As longevity dominates the skincare and beauty industries, anxiety over aging and appearance is ever-present. In business, it’s the experts’ opinions that are trusted over the influencer. In December, Estée Lauder launched the Longevity Collective. It consists of influential scientists, doctors and longevity lifestyle experts who serve on an advisory board, bringing the latest insights, research findings and resources to inform ELC’s ongoing longevity research.  Since the launch, it has leveraged members for brand events, press opportunities, educational content across brand channels and ongoing sirtuin research to inform future product innovation. The Longevity Collective will expand as the conversation around aging continues to evolve.  

 When asked what constitutes a “young” individual, Aging Forumpanelists said it’s as much about inner wellness as it is a so-called “perfect” appearance.

“Lifestyle at the core,” mused Palmarini. “Eating well, sleeping well, staying connected with others and having a purposeful life. These are the four principles that are the base of the longevity trajectory.”