What are you searching for?

Sign in
Features

The Alpha Generation & Cosmetic Mania

Belcorp researchers explain why less is more among younger consumers.

Diego Cubillos, Luisa Garnica, John Jiménez • Belcorp Colombia

In November 2024, the cadenaser.com portal published a very interesting article related to the risky trend of using anti-aging products by women under 15 years of age. The publication mentions that: “Although a few years ago it was easier to imagine children under 15 playing video games than as consumers of creams, patches and masks, today these products circulate naturally in their environments. The phenomenon has sparked a strong debate inside and outside of social networks, especially due to the role that these and the constant exposure to beauty ideals can have in influencing the youngest and their physical and mental health.”

The kids-and-cosmetics debate is booming, and we see new concepts and publications in different media. Cosmeticorexia is a new trendy term. It describes the obsession with overuse of cosmetic products, seeking unrealistic aesthetic perfection. A recent article in the New York Post discusses how preteen skin care routines, driven by social media and aggressive marketing by cosmetic companies, can cause psychological and physical damage. Young skin is more sensitive and therefore can be more prone to dermatological problems. Acne is another problem that can occur in young consumers, as the use of inappropriate products can clog pores. On the other hand, exposure to beauty standards on social networks has the potential to generate dissatisfaction with self-image, affecting self-esteem and increasing the risk of anxiety and depression.

A September 2024 article on the-sun.com reports on cases of eight-year-old girls using anti-aging products and suffering adverse effects, such as chemical burns and rashes. The article discusses the influence of platforms such as TikTok and YouTube on the adoption of these practices and includes opinions from dermatologists warning about the risks of using products not suitable for young skin. Another recent article in The Times details the growing trend of children and pre-teens adopting skincare routines influenced by social media. It addresses concerns from dermatologists and psychologists about the potential physical and mental harm associated with it.

Cosmetic products used by adults do not have the same effects and benefits when used by children. Let’s look at the skin characteristics at different ages.

Comparing Skin: Children v. Adults

The skin undergo significant changes and differentiation processes from the moment we are born and as we grow older. The newborn’s skin is very thin, and the outermost layer of the epidermis has cells less tightly packed than that of adults. Sweat and sebaceous glands, and melanocytes are not fully active yet, making the barrier function of the skin somewhat impaired. This is why the skin of a baby is especially sensitive to UV radiation, chemicals, physical stress and microorganisms.

As we age, cells develop maturity and there is a decrease in the skin’s softness and smoothness There is significant decrease in transepidermal water loss, which gives the body a much better hydration capacity as demonstrated by Kong, Galzote & Duan. Children’s skin is also different from that of an adult due to the lack of maturity of the barrier function, which depends on multiple factors such as the degree of formation of corneocytes and the lipid content of the stratum corneum. Sebaceous and sweat glands are not fully developed at this age, affecting the pH of the skin. As a result, skin tends to be more neutral because the cutaneous acid mantle depends on lactic acid, free amino acids and fatty acids found in sebum and sweat. The fact that children have less acidic skin makes them more prone to attack by microorganisms. Another factor that influences the barrier function of children’s skin is that the capillary system is still in development, conditioning blood flow and, therefore, affecting the regulation of body temperature.

Another characteristic that makes children’s skin different is that, although we have the same number of melanocytes, children’s skin has a lower capacity to produce melanin, which is a protection mechanism that we have against ultraviolet radiation. For this reason, it is extremely important to recommend the use of basic sunscreens to avoid the development of burns and future spots through formulations that do not have active ingredients that involve biochemical skincare mechanisms. Formulations for this target should be minimalist and focused on protecting the barrier function through mild emollients and basic moisturizers. It is extremely important not to consider technologies with biochemical mechanisms that can alter the normal functioning of the skin barrier. It is also important to use neutral soaps that do not damage or dry out the skin since it is more prone to dehydration.

0 to 7 years8 to 12 years (tweens)13 to 19 years (teens)Adult skin >20 years
• Very thin skin
• Impaired barrier function
• Special sensitivity to chemicals, UV radiation and microorganisms		• 80% of the adult thickness
• Better barrier function but still prone to dehydration.		• Full thickness of the skin
• Steep changes in the microbiota, leading to possible skin conditions		• In the later stages of life, skin starts to thin; dermal structures decay
Table 1. Comparison of skin parameters in different stages of life

The Problem with Puberty

By the age of 12, the skin has around 80% of the thickness of that of an adult and can withstand some of the insults of the environment and other harmful situations. However, special attention must be paid to the UV protection. Approximately 50% of the total UV radiation received by the age of 60 occurs before age 20, and the effects of this harmful radiation will only be noticeable in the long term.

During the teenage years, the hormonal processes trigger many changes in the person’s body, including the skin. The sebaceous glands enlarge, which causes an abrupt spike in sebum production. The microbiota sees a large variation, with a high abundance of Cutibacterium and Corynebacterium and a receding population of Lactobacillales. All these changes make the skin prone to infection, redness and soreness. Special attention must be paid to prevent an overreaction of the immune system to allergens or other substances that comes in contact with the skin. 

During the late twenties, the first sign of the skin aging process appears. The epidermis decreases in thickness by approximately 6.4% per decade, on average. There is a slowdown in cell metabolism, which affects epidermal turnover. Skin lipid content declines, as well as the capacity to bind water. Also, the active melanocytes decrease 8-20% per decade, leading to uneven pigmentation. A key skin structure, the dermo-epidermal junction, starts to flatten. With this a reduction in the resistance of the skin to shearing forces is observed. 

Furthermore, the dermal structures start to lose their integrity, leading to the collapse of the skin in some spots. On top of all that, in mature skin some cells stop their normal function without dying, leaving them in a “zombie” state. These zombie cells can promote inflammation and an altered metabolism, harming nearby functional cells. Table 1 summarizes key differences in the skin throughout life stages.

The cosmetics industry has a great opportunity to develop responsible educational campaigns. Girls and boys must be informed about the appropriate use of cosmetics and the risks associated with inappropriate use. Cosmetic companies must create communication channels with parents, so that they can adequately supervise the use of these products, foster and promote self-esteem based on values—beyond physical appearance. At the same time, regulators must supervise cosmetics advertising aimed at minors to avoid misleading practices.

References:

About the Authors

Luisa Garnica is a research analyst at Belcorp Colombia. She has 5 years of experience in the cosmetic industry in R&D in the categories of skincare and suncare. A pharmacist, she graduated from the University of Applied and Environmental Sciences U.D.C.A. in Bogotá, Colombia. Garnica has one publication in cosmetic science and holds a certification in suncare training from the Allchemiq Institute of Cosmetic Sciences in Brazil. Contact: luisagarnica@belcorp.biz

Diego Cubillos is currently a laboratory analyst at Belcorp Colombia with 4 years’ experience in the cosmetic industry in R&D in categories like makeup, skincare and sun care. A chemical engineer, Cubillos graduated from the National University of Colombia, with additional education on Good Manufacture Practices (GMP), Hazards Analysis and Critical Control Points (HACCP), chemical structure of cosmetic products and suncare technologies. Contact: diegocubillos@belcorp.biz

John Jiménez is currently senior researcher at Belcorp Colombia. He has 25 years of experience in the cosmetics industry. He is a pharmacist with a Masters in Sustainable Development and specialization studies in marketing, cosmetic science and neuromarketing. He has 30 publications in scientific journals and a book chapter in cosmetic formulation. He is a recipient of the Maison G de Navarre Prize (IFSCC 2004), Henry Maso Award (IFSCC 2016) and best scientific papers at Colamiqc Ecuador 2009, Colamiqc Brazil 2013 and Farmacosmética Colombia 2014. He was keynote speaker at the IFSCC World Congress in 2023 and other events worldwide, judged innovation awards at In-Cosmetics for several years and was president of Accytec Bogotá from 2017–2019. John is IFSCC magazine co-editor for zone 3.
Contact: johnjimenez@belcorp.biz

Keep Up With Our Content. Subscribe To Happi Newsletters

Topics