Sederma Develops Sustainable Ingredients

Sederma is not only about developing natural molecules of interest for the cosmetic industry. Its newest challenge is to produce them in quantities without causing any damage to the environment.

Therefore, Sederma selected Plant Cell Culture, which exploits the power of synthesis from vegetal stem cells. According to the company, this technology is an inexhaustible source of metabolites of interest with numerous benefits for:

Sustainability: Natural environment preservation, no need for transportation, limited use of solvent, no biosphere destruction;

Safety and quality: No GMOs, no fertilizers, no pesticides, no preservatives, high quantity of selected phytochemicals; and
Sourcing: No crops, no seasonality, no suppliers and unlimited availability.

In 2011, one of Sederma’s new products will be fully produced using this new technology—and it won’t stop there, the company said. The plant cell culture technology brings completely new aspects in the development of cosmetic active ingredients based on beneficial selected phytomolecules. That is the reason why Sederma has acquired a bench wave system bioreactor of 600L, which is the first to be commercialized in Europe.

In parallel, Sederma is developing the expertise to offer advanced services and solutions to its customers thanks to a specialized scientific knowledge and industrial production expertise: optimization of culture conditions, selection and production of metabolites, analytical methods, generation of a callus bank and cryopreservation of cell lines.

Hyadisine Smoothes the Skin
Lipotec introduced Hyadisine, a hyaluronic-like marine-based active ingredient with a high water-retaining capacity which provides a long-lasting moisturizing effect and immediate wrinkle reduction, according to the company.

It is an exopolysaccharide achieved through optimized bioprocesses from a marine bacterium that inhabits the Bay of Douarnenez, in Brittany, which is rich in the same monosaccharide (glucuronic acid) as hyaluronic acid.

The excellent long-lasting moisturizing and immediate anti-wrinkle properties of Hyadisine tested in vivo showed the efficacy of this bio-active ingredient to improve skin appearance, reducing lines in only two hours, according to the company.

Hyadisine is part of Biointec, Lipotec’s new brand which, based on non-genetically modified organisms and supported by advanced biotechnological technologies, allows for regular and sustainable production of active ingredients with proven cosmetic efficacy.


ISP Presents Caspaline 14
UV protection has long been recognized as an important step in battling the signs of skin aging, but until recently, consumers relied primarily on sunscreens as their weapon of choice. But now a new technology from International Specialty Products Inc. (ISP) is aimed at helping the skin’s own natural barrier function protect against UV rays.

Caspaline 14 is a synthetic peptide designed to target and boost the expression of caspase-14, a cysteine protease linked to skin softness and suppleness.

Unlike a topically applied sunscreen, Caspaline 14 does not rely on an active UV blocker for protective properties. Instead, it focuses on the skin’s natural ability to minimize damage from UV exposure. By boosting caspase-14, which has been linked with cornifying epithelial tissue, such as the skin, and influencing terminal keratinocyte differentiation and formation of the skin’s barrier function, Caspaline 14 may help limit skin damage from UV, according to the company.

“This is a truly new approach to helping consumers slow the signs of skin aging caused by sun exposure. Boosting the skin’s natural defenses not only has beneficial effects on UV protection but also skin softness,” said Joel Mantelin, global marketing director, skin care. “Caspaline 14 is an exciting ground-breaking technology for skin care cosmetics.”


AkzoNobel To Launch Sustainable Polymers
Innovative technology and sustainability are the watchwords defining AkzoNobel Global Personal Care’s new Structure CEL line of polymers for both hair care and skin care applications. Drawing upon the abundant technology and chemistry “tool kit” available at AkzoNobel Global Personal Care, the scientists there have applied water-soluble derivatives of cellulose, a renewable raw material, to the development of more sustainable, nonionic rheology modifiers that will deliver potential improvements in efficiency and compatibility compared with competitive ingredients.

The versatile new polymers may be used effectively in a variety of formulations; e.g., as foam boosters and rheology modifiers for sulfate-free or sulfate shampoos; as rheology and texture modifiers for rinse-off and leave-on hair conditioners; as styling polymers and rheology modifiers for hair styling gels with improved ingredient compatibility; and as thickeners for ethanol-based hand sanitizers that enable the use of benzalkonium chloride, according to the company.


Lady Burd Debuts New Skin Care Products, Foundation
Lady Burd Exclusive Private Label Cosmetics has rolled out a variety of innovations this season. One example is Oil-Free Moisturizing SPF 46 Cream, a new extreme moisturizer that contains sodium hyaluronate to help protect skin from harmful UV rays while making it appear younger and smoother.

The new Acne Treatment Gel is ideal for oily, acne prone skin. Willow bark extract and tumeric root extract combat blemishes, while glycolic acid exfoliates the skin. Glycerin and aloe help moisturize and soothe.

Lady Burd also released an Anti-Aging Foundation that contains a unique blend of ingredients to counteract the effects of time. Duo-peptides help reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles, while NutriLayer is a breakthrough natural extract which helps the skin retain its original moisture level. Antioxidants help protect the skin from free radical damage. Soft Focus Powders provide a self-adjusting effect to make the skin look natural and flawless, according to the company.


New Software for Formulators
The formulation strategy “Formulating for Efficacy,” developed by Prof. Dr. Johann W. Wiechers, Independent Consultant for Cosmetic Science at JW Solutions, is now available as a software program. Enter emollients and active ingredient and a few other properties and the program calculates the rest.