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Below is a list of new skin care ingredients available from select suppliers.
May 1, 2017
By: Christine Esposito
Managing Editor
BASF Corporation Florham Park, NJ Phone: 800-669-2273 Email: personal-care@basf.com Website: www.carecreations.basf.com/?utm_source=HAP&utm_medium=ContentMarketing&utm_campaign=HAP Tinovis GTC UP INCI: Acrylates/beheneth-25 methacrylate copolymer Suggested Use Levels: 1-5% Applications: Skin care, hair care Comments: Associative rheology modifier for surfactant or emulsion systems that is cold-processable. Create novel textures with self-leveling effect. Excellent thickening efficiency and suspension characteristics. Lamesoft OD INCI: Coco-caprylate (and) lauryl glucoside (and) glycerin (and) polyglyceryl-2 dipolyhydroxystearate (and) polyglyceryl-3 diisostearate Suggested Use Levels: 1-4% Applications: Skin care rinse-off, hair care rinse-off Comments: Microemulsion for oil deposition, delivering luxurious, soft, conditioned post rinse skin feel. Significantly improves the body and cushion of foam; i.e., foam characteristics. Helps protect skin barrier against surfactant induced damage; suitable for sensitive skin and baby care Dermagenist INCI: Maltodextrin (and) origanum majorana leaf extract Suggested Use Levels: 0.2-0.4% Applications: Skin care, hair care Comments: High efficacy botanical active to address aging concerns through an epigenetics approach. Skin firmness and density are significantly improved, for a natural, more youthful appearance. Centerchem, Inc. Norwalk, CT Phone: 203-822-9800 Email: cosmetics@centerchem.com Website: www.centerchem.com AQUAXTREM INCI: Propanediol, water, rhen rhaponticum root extract Suggested Use Levels: 0.5-1.5% Applications: Anti-aging and moisturizing skin products Comments: Aquaxtrem is an active fraction obtained from rhubarb root (Rheum rhaponticum), a plant that is native to the mountains of western China and eastern Tibet. This rhubarb extract is standardized in rhaponticin. Aquaxtrem restores the hydric balance for an ageless and comfortable beauty. In vivo efficacy study conducted with Aquaxtrem on women over 60 years of age, showed softer skin in addition to recovered luminosity. FACS (Facial Action Coding System) was also used to measure the discomfort of the skin by analyzing facial expression. On day 28 of the study, improved results were recorded in 100% of the cases. Aquaxtrem activates the skin’s own mechanisms for long- lasting moisturization. Detoskin INCI: Water, glycerin, Paeonia lactiflora root extract Suggested Use Levels: 1.0-2.0% Applications: Skin care products Comments: Detoskin is a powerful combination of trehalose and paeoniflorin with synergistic action. Trehalose is a natural disaccharide obtained from vegetal origin starch. Paeoniflorin is obtained from a root fraction of Paeonia lactiflora, the peony, queen of flowers. Detoskin activates mitophagy to remove and recycle aged mitochondria. Cellular activation of mitophagy involves an initial reduction in mitochondrial mass in the cell, which is then expected to increase again due to the synthesis of new mitochondria. Fibroblasts treated with Detoskin (0.16%) reduced their mitochondrial mass by 5.3% after six hours, but after 24 hours, recovery of the original mitochondrial mass was detected, meaning that the damaged mitochondria had been replaced by new ones. Detoskin renews skin mitochondria, activating mitophagy so that cells recover all their energy, which becomes visually evident in fewer signs of aging such as wrinkles, roughness and uneven tone. PEPHA-AGE INCI: Scenedesmus rubescens extract Suggested Use Level: 1.00-3.00% Applications: Skin care products Comments: Pepha-Age contains an extract of freshwater microalgae Scenedesmus rubescens (green algae), which provides high biological resistance towards UV and blue light. Pepha-Age is produced by using a sustainable biotech process in state-of-the-art photobioreactors and contains a unique mixture of amino acids, vitamins (B3), algal saccharides and minerals. Pepha-Age stimulates the skin’s own defense against UV and blue light, helping to minimize the appearance of aging. Pepha-Age protects skin against sunlight induced epidermal damage while stimulating Collagen III (youth collagen). Pepha-Age improves skin’s overall appearance. Gattefossé Paramus, NJ Phone: 201-265-4800 Email: info@gattefossecorp.com Website: www.gattefosse.com Gatuline Link n Lift INCI: Fructose (and) glycerin (and) water (and) Aesculus hippocastanum (horse chestnut) extract Suggested Use Levels: 2% Applications: Anti-aging, anti-wrinkle, skin smoothing, eye contour treatments, natural products Comments: Extracted from horse chestnut flowers using a novel, biomimetic technology, Gatuline Link n Lift reconnects the epidermis to the dermis. It acts on all eye contour wrinkles, crows’ feet, under-eye wrinkles, and tear trough wrinkle, to deliver a younger look. Innospec Salisbury, NC Phone: 704-633-8028 Email: americas-pc@innospecinc.com Website: www.innospecpersonalcare.com Pureact SLG INCI: Sodium lauroyl glycinate Applications: Shampoos, body washes, facial cleansers Comments: Pureact SLG is a mild, sulfate-free surfactant that provides creamy foam and gentle cleansing to skin. Pureact SLG is sourced from naturally derived vegetable feedstocks and can be used as a primary or secondary surfactant. Specsil K-80 INCI: Trimethylsiloxysilicate (and) dimethicone Applications: Foundations, skin products that require long-wear Comments: Specsil K-80 is a specially formulated specialty silicone that provides a clear flexible film for a superior transfer and water wash-off resistance. Luminact Brite INCI: Fucus vesiculosus extract Applications: Facial and body creams and lotions Comments: Luminact Brite is a clinically proven skin brightening ingredient which significantly increases radiance and reduces the pigmentation of age spots. Luminact fucoidan products are extracted from sustainably harvested seaweeds. LipoTrue Barcelona, Spain Phone: +34 936 811 650 Email: info@lipotrue.com Website: www.lipotrue.com Seadermium INCI: Bacillus Ferment Suggested Use Levels: 4% Applications: Face/neck skin care products for mature skin looking to visibly plump and smooth deep wrinkles, while strengthening skin integrity. Targeted at pro-aging lines such as crow’s feet, nasolabial fold and marionette lines. Comments: Seadermium is a complete approach for mature beauty, specifically targeted at golden age (60-70 years old) when it is most need it. Seadermium strengthens skin integrity and cohesion. Also, it helps thicken epidermis and stimulate collagen and glycosaminoglycans, important for skin fullness and moisturization. Sirtalice INCI: Bacillus Ferment Suggested Use Levels: 2% Applications: Face and eye formulations with instant lifting and V-shape effect while recharging and reinforcing skin. For on-the-go and selfie-ready products Comments: Sirtalice offers a revolutionary instant lifting and V-reshape of face contour in only 30 minutes. Its long-lasting efficacy provides a more luminous and firmer skin. Sirtalice is a recharging freezing blast of energy for busy urban lifestyles or for always being selfie-ready. Pauseîle INCI: Bacillus ferment Suggested Use Levels: 1-2% Applications: Formulations looking to reset skin radiance and tonicity while enjoying a moisturizing experience. Comments: Pauseîle seals skin barrier and keeps skin moisturized, soft and flexible from different fronts. Pauseîle resets skin tonicity and radiance for a healthy glow targeting stressed, dry and dull skin. Take a pause with Pauseîle for an indulging hydrating reset of your skin. Mibelle Biochemistry Buchs, Switzerland Phone: +41 62 836 17 31 Email: info@mibellebiochemistry.com Website: www.mibellebiochemistry.com SensAmone P5 INCI: Pentapeptide-59 (and) hydrogenated lecithin (and) butyrospermum parkii (shea) butter (and) phenethyl alcohol (and) ethylhexylglycerin (and) maltodextrin (and) aqua/water Suggested Use Levels: 1-2% Applications: Sensitive skin care, neurocosmetics, comforting formulations Comments: SensAmone P5 is a biomimetic peptide that is based on a sea anemone venom protein which calms sensitive skin and reduces skin irritation. In clinical studies, SensAmone P5 reduced skin reactivity immediately after a single application. InfraGuard INCI: InfraGuard (standard version) Caesalpinia spinosa fruit pod extract (and) propylene glycol (and) Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Sprout Extract (and) Sodium Benzoate (and) Phenoxyethanol (and) Aqua / Water InfraGuard pwd (powder version, 2-fold concentrated): Caesalpinia Spinosa Fruit Pod Extract (and) Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Sprout Extract (and) Maltodextrin (and) Sodium Benzoate (and) Aqua / Water Suggested Use Levels: 2-3% Applications: Sun care, advanced antioxidant formulations, energizing products Comments: InfraGuard combines tara tannins, a powerful antioxidant to organic sunflower shoots to efficiently protect the skin against the harmful effects of infrared radiation. InfraGuard protects mitochondrial DNA and blocks the formation of radicals in skin cells. The infrared protection effect by InfraGuard was confirmed in a clinical study. Pinolumin INCI: Pinolumin (standard version) Pinus cembra wood extract (and) alcohol (and) pentylene glycol (and) aqua/water pinolumin pwd (alcohol-free powder version,2-fold concentrated): Pinus cembra wood extract (and) maltodextrin (and) aqua/ water Suggested Use Levels: 2% Applications: Skin care and sun care for sensitive skin, radiance booster, neurocosmetics Comments: Pinolumin is a concentrated extract of Swiss stone pine that calms skin hypersensitivity and reduces local skin redness and color irregularities resulting from inflammation for a flawless complexion. Micro Powders, Inc. Tarrytown, NY Phone: 914 793-4058 Email: mpi@micropowders.com Website: www.MPIpersonalcare.com Naturesoft 800 INCI: Cellulose Suggested Use Levels: 1-5% Applications: Loose and pressed powders, eye shadows, foundations, eyeliners – liquid and pencil, cleansing creams and lotions, mascara, skin care preparations, suncare, lipstick, AP/DO. Comments: Naturesoft 800 is an ultrafine micronized cellulose powder is designed to provide unsurpassed binding, long wear and noticeably smooth aesthetics with good payout and application. All of these benefits are now available in an all-natural, white fine powder. Naturescrub Series – H14, H20 and H50 INCI: Hydrogenated castor oil Suggested Use Levels: 1-10% Applications: Exfoliating scrubs for bar and liquid soaps, facial and body scrubs, sugar and salt scrubs, foot scrubs, creams and lotions, liquids, and gels. Comments: Naturescrub products are irregular-shaped exfoliants produced from natural-based waxes. Naturescrubs are an effective natural alternative to microplastic beads that are white in appearance and come in three different particle sizes. Naturesorb 1000 INCI: Copernicia cerifera (carnauba) wax calcium silicate Suggested Use Levels: 1-5% Applications: All color cosmetic and skin care applications including sunscreen formulations, and oil-reduction and oil-control skin treatments such as those for troubled skin and acne. Comments: Naturesorb 1000 utilizes all natural carnauba wax to provide similar oil absorbent properties expected from Microsorb, as well as increased adhesion and long wear. Sandream Impact LLC Fairfield, NJ Phone: 973-882-3077 Email: info@sandreamimpact.com Website: www.sandreamimpact.com Dream Fx Suggested Use Levels: 1-5%. Applications: lotions, hand and body wash, clear gels and shampoos. Comments: Dream FX are exquisite visual delivery systems. These microcapsules are comprised of agar and alginate and provide stunning visuals, as well as a myriad of internal functionalities. Available in a variety of shapes, sizes and colors. Dream Petals INCI: Aqua (and) calcium alginate (and) agar (and) phenoxyethanol (and) ethylhexylglycerin (and) colorant (such as Red 30, titanium dioxide, iron oxides etc.) Dream Softlets INCI: Aqua (and) theobroma grandflorum seed butter (and) butylene glycol (and) glycerin (and) sucrose stearate (and) calcium alginate (and) agar-agar (and) phenoxyethanol (and) caprylyl glycol (and) 1,2-hexanediol (and) mica (and) CI 77492 Dream Silks INCI: Aqua (and) butylene glycol (and) gellan gum (and) calcium alginate (and) agar (and) phenoxyethanol (and) propylene glycol (and) 1,2-hexanediol (and) pearlescent pigments; i.e., mica (and) titanium dioxide (and) iron oxides Seiwa Kasei Osaka, Japan Phone: +81-72-987-2626 Email: sales@seiwakasei.co.jp Website: www.seiwakasei.jp/en/ Hazumi-Hada INCI: Potassium cocoyl hydrolyzed collagen, glycerin, water Suggested Use Levels: 1.0-3.0% Applications: Skin lotion, anti-aging cream, eye cream, facial mask Comments: “Hazumi-Hada” means plump skin in Japanese. It was developed by our unique technology and gives anti-aging efficacy by promoting collagen production. It has a superior collagen production effect and using it with vitamin C derivative improves collagen production ability. Amitose R INCI: Dihydroxypropyl arginine HCl, water Suggested Use Levels: 1.0-5.0% Applications: Skin toner, cleansing gel, cream, washing foam, body lotion Comments: Amitose R is a novel moisturizing ingredient produced by binding the amino acid arginine to glycerin. The excellent moisturizing effect derived from the glycerin structure and the excellent adsorption property from the arginine structure offers deep and long-lasting moistness. It provides skin conditioning benefits that get rid of rough skin and improves skin texture. Amitose 2GA INCI: Glyceryl ascorbate Suggested Use Levels: 2.0-10.0% Applications: Skin toner, face wash, foundation Comments: Amitose 2GA, “Moisturizing Vitamin C,” is a novel moisturizing vitamin C derivative produced by binding vitamin C (ascorbic acid) to glycerin using Seiwa’s original technology. In addition to its excellent skin-moisturizing effect and inhibitory effect on melanin production, Amitose 2GA imparts an excellent sensory texture, enhances collagen production, and is available in a wide range of pH. This product is preservative free. Sensient Cosmetic Technologies South Plainfield, NJ Phone: 908-769-3312 Email: cosmeticsales@sensient.com Website: www.sensient-cosmetics.com Sensibead SI 175 INCI: Silica Suggested Use Levels: 0.5-30% Applications: Skin care, sun care, makeup. Comments: Sensibeads SI 175 and Sensibeads SI 320 are natural porous spherical ultra fine particles of silica with excellent slip benefits to improve the sensoriality of skin care formulations. These beads also demonstrate high blurring effect to help skin care products provide immediate skin improvement claims. Fiberlon AC INCI: Cellulose Suggested Use Levels: 0.5-10% Applications: Skin care, makeup. Comments: Fiberlon AC are natural fibers from European wheat. These fibers can be used to formulate skin care products with a nice light feel and also provide soft focus effects upon application. Shin-Etsu Silicones of America Akron, OH 330-630-9860, 800-544-1745 Website: www.shinetsusilicones.com, www.silicones.jp Email: cosmetics@shinetsusilicones.com X-22-6695B INCI: Jojoba oil (and) lauryl dimethicone/polyglycerin-3 crosspolymer Suggested Use Levels: 1.5-25% Applications: Skin lotions and creams, anti-aging products, skin whitening products, sun care products (lotions, creams, sprays, self-tanners, cosmetics: foundations, eye shadows, mascaras, lipsticks, blushers, etc.); hair styling products (sprays, cuticle coats, gels, emulsions, etc). Comments: X-22-6695B is a PEG-free, high shine, organic compatible, self-emulsifying elastomer gel swollen in jojoba oil. The product is derived from natural ingredients. X-22-6695B can be used alone as a sensory enhancer, a thickening agent for oils and emulsions, or as an emulsifier. The active elastomer gel has an innovative 3-dimethional structure that the silicone polymer network is crosslinked with non-PEG, polyglycrin groups and additionally with grafted alkyl (C12) groups. The grafted alkyl groups allow the polymer swell in organic carriers and esters. Jojoba oil carrier further expands the compatibility to include more polar oils. Like KSG-840, X-22-6695B shares many of the similar features and benefits such as stabilizing high internal phase emulsions with large droplet size, forming quick-water-breaking emulsions to deliver the cream-to-water transforming textures. The high shine nature of X-22-6695B makes it uniquely suitable for anti-aging application to add radiance and glow. It’s also useful for lip applications where high shine is desirable. The formulated products are rich, moisturizing and with exceptional skin feel. Ambient process is the norm when ingredients do not require heat. Low energy process is preferred provided there is good mixing; low energy homogenization is acceptable but not necessary. KF-6043 INCI: PEG-10 dimethicone Suggested Use Levels: 1-5% Applications: Skin lotions, creams, anti-aging products, sun care products (lotions, creams, self-tanners); cosmetics (foundations, eye shadows, mascaras, lipsticks, blushers); foaming facial cleansers, hair styling products. Comments: KF-6043 Shin-Etsu Silicone’s KF-6043 is a 100% active, clear liquid designed to be an O/W or Sil/W emulsifier for cosmetics and personal care. It is a linear polyether modified silicone fluid. It is effective in stabilizing large particle size o/w emulsions for light and fresh skin feel. For best performance, a low HLB co-emulsifier such as KF-6104, KF-6105, KF-6017 or KF-6005 is recommended. An anionic stabilizer or thickener is also required for enhanced stability. Because of the high hydorphilicity, the product is also effective as a foam texture enhancer for rinse-off products. It is essentially odorless. Ambient processing is possible if all ingredients are liquid. KSG-44 INCI: Squalane (and) vinyl dimethicone/lauryl dimethicone crosspolymer Applications and Recommended Use Levels: Skin care lotions and creams, 2-10%; Anti-aging facial products, 2-5%; Lipsticks, 5-20%; Foundations, mascaras, 2-5%; Hair treatment products, 1-5%; Sunscreens: 1-5%. Comments: KSG-44 is an lauryl modified elastomer swollen in a plant derived squalane. The lauryl modification group provides excellent compatibility with organic formulation ingredients. It is an effective thickener for w/o emulsions. The product is designed to enhance the sensorial properties of cosmetic formulations including hair care, skin care, color cosmetics, and sun screens. KSG-44 provides a silky, non-tacky, non-oily and cushiony skin feel. Unlike most elastomers that are mattifying, KSG-44 provides a dewy and glowing appearance. Silab Saint-Viance, France Phone: +33 (0)5 55 84 58 40 Email: silab@silab.fr Website: www.silab.fr Wellagyl INCI: Rosa damascena flower extract Suggested Use Levels: 1 to 2.5% (in aqueous solution) Applications: Face Comments: A purified active ingredient, rich in oligosaccharides, from the Bulgarian rose, Wellagyl meets the concept of aging well expressed by women determined to stay beautiful and still look their age. Wellagyl activates the biological pathways specific to aging well at cells level and stimulates the tissue metabolism. On volunteers with poorly-aging skin, it restores four main well-aging criteria: complexion radiance, hydration, relief and firmness. Solvay Website: www.solvay.com Rheomer SC-Plus INCI: Acrylates/beheneth-25 methacrylate copolymer Suggested Use Levels: 1-6% Applications: Skin and sun care products Comments: Rheomer SC-Plus provides efficient rheology modification as well as excellent suspension. It helps stabilize oil-in-water formulations containing electrolytes and particulates like pigments, titanium dioxide and zinc oxide. Rheozan SH INCI: Succinoglycan Suggested Use Levels: 0.2-1% Applications: Skin and sun care products Comments: Rheozan SH is a rheology polymer that is certified 100% natural by Ecocert. It is an excellent stabilizer of formulations containing acidic actives and electrolytes. It provides a smooth and velvety skin feel and helps eliminate tackiness.
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