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Makeup for eyes, lips and face feature punchy pigments and even glitter for a glamorous glow.
August 2, 2019
By: Melissa Meisel
Imagine going to swatch a beautiful, bright pigment on your skin only to find that it’s a washed out, translucent version of what appears on pack. When it comes to color cosmetics, shoppers right now are demanding extreme payoff, according to Pamela Faller, in-house makeup artist and product expert, Mehron Makeup, Chestnut Ridge, NY. “Consumers crave that bold saturated, pigment that’s promised in the marketing for that product,” she told Happi. “Most shoppers are searching for the latest products right on their phones now through social media. Everyone has their favorite makeup artist influencer they follow and because these influencers are being sent product from all the top cosmetic companies they know they’re seeing the latest and greatest products in real time. You can watch them unbox, swatch and then create a look using products before you decide to purchase anything.” According to Faller, a bold pop of color on eyes is a huge trend right now because it’s all over the runway and red carpet events. Statement lips are another fun trend when paired with a minimalist look on the rest of the face, she added. Highlighting Business Yet, even with the color crave, there’s been a significant slowdown in prestige makeup sales. According to The NPD Group, in the 12 months ending May 2019, US prestige makeup sales declined 4% to $7.9 billion. “Despite the decline, there remain pockets of growth and opportunity within the color cosmetics category, specifically around products that create a more natural ‘born with it’ look,” explained Larissa Jensen, executive director and beauty industry analyst, The NPD Group. Tinted moisturizer sales increased 11% to $126 million, concealer grew 5% to $474 million, lip gloss grew 1% to $191 million and setting sprays rose a whopping 31% to $246 million. “While some challenges may lie ahead, 2019 remains an exciting time for the beauty industry. Listening to the consumer, maintaining a pulse on category trends, being open to change and adjusting in real time is what will drive success in today’s fast-paced environment,” Jensen told Happi in an interview. Meanwhile, in the mass market, basic facial cosmetics sales fell 4.2% to $2.1 billion with some mixed performances within key segments, according to data from Information Resources Inc. (IRI) for total US multi-outlet (supermarkets, drugstores, mass market retailers, military commissaries and select club and dollar retail chains) for the 52 weeks ended May 19, 2019 (see chart, previous page). “There are definitely some shifts here in the recent years of smaller indie beauty brands taking a piece of the cosmetics industry pie,” observed Yvonne MacInnis, pro makeup artist and beauty expert for The Makeup Show, New York. “Trend comes into play here with American brands being able to turn products around in very short time frames. These are easily accessed online and are fast buys in places like Ulta and Riley Rose.” But, these newer brands often lack the product quality that more luxe brands offer—yes, we’re thinking about you, Jaclyn! According to Helen Phillips of Sephora Collection, this quality may still be the most important aspect to a more discerning consumer, who still shops at Sephora or cosmetics departments in store or online. The LA-based expert told Happi, “Right now, we are seeing a lot of superfood ingredients being used in color cosmetics – ingredients like oils derived from sunflower, chia, and flax seeds, as well as mushrooms, turmeric, coconut and avocado. I tend to like using ingredients that are simple and have a purpose.” Lip Service Glossy lips are huge right now, especially in bright and natural pink tones, which is a fresh departure from the long-wear mattes that ruled last season. According to Phillips, “What I love about this trend is that there is a level of glossy for everyone.” For example, Stila’s new Beauty Boss Lip Gloss offers 12 high-shine shades with a next generation, light-refracting formula with iridescent pearls to create intense shine and amplified dimension. Hyaluronic filling spheres and luminous oils add natural-looking shine with a fig vanilla scent. L’Absolu Mademoiselle Shine is Lancôme’s leading seasonal launch and newest addition to its iconic L’Absolu franchise. This melting and highly hydrating formula made with Pro-Xylane, a Lancôme patented molecule that replenishes and moisturizes lips, while conditioning and comforting agents soften lips for up to eight hours. Additionally, lips are protected with the antioxidant vitamin E and rose oil to safeguard against environmental damage. Shoppers can just pucker up and go this summer with six irresistibly shimmering lip glosses from Deck of Scarlet. Hi-Shine Lip Gloss delivers multi-dimensional, prismatic pigment that makes a statement in just one stroke, according to the indie beauty brand. The ultra-creamy formula glides on smooth. Or, they can go matte with Maybelline New York’s new SuperStay Ink Crayon. SuperStay Matte Ink Crayon is the latest addition to the SuperStay lip range, a fan-favorite for the longest wearing lips. The soft bullet lip crayon provides up to 8-hours of saturated, matte color made to last; no need for touch-ups. Formulated with innovative elastic ink technology, this lip color forms Maybelline’s thinnest layer of color yet for a weightless, comfortable feel, said the company. In fact, the SuperStay Ink Crayon made its debut on the red carpet at the Met Gala in New York City in May. Spokesmodel Josephine Skriver used it on both her eyes, face and lip for the ultimate statement look. “We drew inspiration for the look from the rich colors of the appliqué flowers on Josephine’s gown. With the theme, we knew we could push the boundaries without distracting from the dress,” explained Maybelline makeup artist Grace Lee, in a statement. Get ready to go Gaga over the latest cosmetic debut. Haus Laboratories is Lady Gaga’s new makeup company, and it is set to make history as the first major beauty brand to launch exclusively on Amazon. The initial launch includes lip gloss, lip color, and all-over colors, according to reports, in six shades. A kit with all three products is priced at $49, and lip gloss will be $16 each. The collection is slated for a September launch, but the first products rolled out for pre-order on July 15 for Amazon Prime Day. Keep An Eye Out Duo chrome is a major focus right now in eye cosmetics, observed MacInnis of The Makeup Show, also “anything holographic (Milk Makeup highlighters) and futuristic is coming in and neon is still really hot. “For the fall we saw this on the runway and lots of deconstructed smoky eyes and really beautiful skin,” she added. Many makeup brands are stepping up to the plate with advanced eyecolor formulas for Fall. NYX raises expectations with its new On the Rise Volume Liftscara. This ultra-pigmented formula catches and coats lashes in matte black color for quick-charge lift and volume in just a few strokes. Featuring an innovative applicator shape and an elastomer brush head, the part-hourglass, part-rounded brush delivers high drama, intense volume and serious elevation! In a clinical study, 95% of participants saw instant volume and 94% saw instant lift, said NYX. Achieve the most dramatic eye look yet with Maybelline’s ColorTattoo 24 Hour Eyeshadow. The new formula delivers intense color payoff with enhanced blendability for a smoother, and more even application for 24-hour wear, said the company. It is available in 10 shades. Then create a sultry, smoky eye in seconds with the Line Express Eyeliner! This wood pencil liner glides on seamlessly with its super creamy formula and provides intense color payoff ensuring an all-day wear in all three shades. Tattoo Liner Liquid Ink creates an intense eye look, yet removes without a trace! The blacker than black long-lasting liner is fade, smudge- and sweat-resistant with a 36-hour wear formula. Iconic Maybelline Colossal Mascara is back with a fresh new look and top-rated formula for big, bold lashes. The Colossal Mascara’s coveted, plumping formula is infused with twice the collagen to provide lashes with instant volume. Already available in five shades, Colossal Mascara is now available in new Colossal Platinum, which is formulated with sparkles for added drama and flair. Lashes have never been more glamorous! In other news, Maybelline Snapscara is now available in new Bold Brown. This mascara is the first wax-free formulation that is shaded with pure gel pigments for easy application and removal, according to the company. L’Oréal Paris Voluminous Lash Paradise Mascara Glitter Topper coats each lash with gold glitter to make lashes sparkle. First, prime the lashes with Lash Paradise Primer. Then apply Lash Paradise Mascara. Finish with the Glitter Topper to add sparkle to the lashes. Glamour is also big at Urban Decay. Its new Heavy Metal Glitter Gel is back with a whole new way to sparkle. Inspired by Urban Decay’s original glitter eye gel from the early 2000s, this new formula is super-concentrated, vibrant bling-in-a-tube for eyes, face and body. Colors range from Saturday Stardust, an iridescent pink glitter to Dreamland, a trippy iridescent orange-blue shift glitter. The hyper-reflective glitter is suspended in a non-sticky, water-based gel and glides on easily with a brush or finger. The formula dries quickly and stays put for up to nine hours. To remove, just add water. Urban Decay Heavy Metal Glitter Eyeliner takes hard-to-handle glitter and makes it effortless to apply. With a lineup of eight shades made for maximum mixing and matching, Heavy Metal is water-based and buildable with super-fine glitter, with a quick dry-down that stays put for hours, according to the company. Nomad Cosmetics, known for its globally inspired palettes, is transporting users to Harajuku, Tokyo. Nomad’s new summer palette features 10 creamy poppy pastel eyeshadows and five multi-chrome toppers, all infused with local camellia japonica oil. Meanwhile, fans of 1980s video games can take a nostalgic stroll down memory lane with the new Limited-Edition Wet n Wild x Pac-Man Collection, where bright hues and iconic characters bring users back to those days spent in the arcade. The range includes eyeshadows, lipsticks, bronzers and more. Building a Solid Foundation Maybelline New York is attempting to improve the online foundation shopping experience with the launch of Foundation Finder, the first-ever web-based tool that utilizes facial recognition technology to find the perfect foundation shade via selfie without having to download an app. Foundation Finder uses adaptive algorithms and the latest advancements in Computer Vision Technology to detect and analyze details of the user’s skin tone. The tool pairs facial color tone with individual shade, coverage and finish preference to deliver foundation shade matches with precision. Finally, Foundation Finder will deliver a personalized shade recommendation in less than a minute. Foundation Finder is available on Maybelline.com for use on mobile, tablet and desktop. Foundations that customers may be matched with include: Maybelline New York Fit Me! Dewy + Smooth Foundation, Maybelline New York Fit Me! Matte + Poreless Foundation, Maybelline New York Fit Me! Shine-Free + Balance Stick Foundation, Maybelline New York Super Stay Full Coverage Foundation, Maybelline New York Super Stay Multi-Use Foundation Stick, Maybelline New York Super Stay Better Skin Foundation and Maybelline New York Dream Satin Liquid Foundation. This summer, Laura Mercier rolls out Glace Touch, a sheer, non-sticky gloss for eyes, cheeks and lips. This lightweight glossy formula provides sheer vibrant color and creates a natural flush of color with light catching pearls. It is infused with coconut and cucumber water to provide hydration and a cushion balm texture. Lune + Aster’s RealGlow Skin Tint is billed as a multi-tasking skin base that provides customizable, buildable coverage and skin care benefits with apple fruit extract, featuring glycerin that helps to increase hydration levels in the skin, while vegan collagen helps improve moisture and gives the look of smooth, radiant skin. Designed for easy application, apply this gluten-free and vegan skin tint with your fingertips after moisturizer and or primer. Available at Bluemercury in 11 shades from light to dark. Clé de Peau Beauté is adding to its range of Luminizing Face Enhancers. The newest hue, Shade 18, is inspired by the pearlescent beauty of the conch shell. This highlighting powder utilizes Illuminating Beads and Clé de Peau Beauté’s exclusive light diffusing technology to define and brighten the contours of the complexion. This new shade is a delicate balance of gentle, warm orange and sweet pink to impart healthy luminosity, while ultra-fine gold and silver bring all-over radiance, said the company. Women know that the skin beneath their makeup must be nourished and protected in order to get optimal application results, which is the inspiration behind this collection. Healthy skin with a makeup formulation that provides full coverage that weightlessly sits on top of skin for a bright and flawless complexion. Clinique also recently rolled out the multi-tasking Cheek Pop On-The-Glow Trio palette that offers a highlighter, blush and a bronzer. The blush delivers vibrant yet natural-looking cheek color that looks virtually powderless. The bronzer creates a natural-looking radiance, blends and builds easily to your desired level of color. The highlighter creates a customized, lit-from-within glow. CoverGirl’s TruBlend Undercover Concealer is a new vegan and lightweight full coverage concealer that instantly brightens and smooths out complexions. For a variety of skin hues, there are 30 shades available to ensure consumers find their perfect match. The formula is highly pigmented to create a full coverage finish. A Bright Forecast The global market for mineral cosmetics is projected to reach $2.92 billion by 2026, at a 4.7% CAGR, according to a report by Allied Market Research. A rise in health consciousness and a shift in consumer preferences are expected to propel market growth, the report says. Overall, colors and their precise formulation will be something to keep an eye on. According to Faller of Mehron, multi-tasking cosmetics in jellies, foams and sprays are the future of color. “Futuristic hues paired with these new formulas will definitely be seen in the new decade. High shine and shifting colors in not only eye products but lip, cheek and hair products are where 2020 is heading,” she told Happi. According to the current analysis by Reports and Data, the global anti-acne makeup market is expected to grow 4% a year and reach $3.24 billion by the end of 2026. Gains come from consumers ages 15-25 who create sebum at a rapid rate. “There seems to be an upsurge of ‘undone’ makeup for next season and beyond, sort of a counter culture to all the overly-edited Instagram makeup that has been happening,” noted MacInnis of The Makeup Show. For example, at the Jeremy Scott Moschino show for SS20 Resort, the makeup artist used a treatment of washed-out neon and messy black smudges of makeup and glitter to create fashion forward Halloween-inspired looks. “One big trend this year is stepping away from ‘insta-glam’ and into, what I like to call, ‘fast-glam,’ which is all about wearable, colorful looks that are easy to apply,” said Phillips of Sephora Collection. “Another big trend I’ve seen is stepping away from the ‘mega glow’ and embracing all skin finishes. These come to show that people are taking beauty into their own hands and deciding what works for them—showing off their creativity and beauty in truly unique ways.”
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