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Rising Trends in Active Ingredients

Skin care and personal care products treat the signs of aging, address acne or both.

From tween to seniors, skincare products that pamper, treat issues or prevent damage are essential in daily life. Whether it’s a gentle morning face wash or a soothing night cream, suppliers are developing new materials for formulators to meet market demands.

According to Spate’s Popularity Index, mature skin and the skin microbiome are the fastest-growing concerns in the US.

The skin microbiome is no longer a scientific term ingrained in a skincare expert’s vocabulary. It is as much a conversational topic as neighborhood gossip among beauty lovers. In layman’s terms, the microbiome is the ecosystem of bacteria that lives on the skin’s surface. When this delicate balance is disrupted, it can trigger conditions like atopic dermatitis, psoriasis and acne. As consumers become more informed about how the skin functions and how to support it, they’re increasingly curious about microbiome-friendly products and routines.

Meanwhile, the industry is shifting away from “anti-aging” and embracing the more inclusive term “mature skin.” This trend has grown by +77.6% compared to last year, and across platforms. On Google, searches are up 5.5% compared to last year, while TikTok has seen growth of +101.4%. 

Since the start of the year, K-beauty hashtags have driven more than 5 billion video views on TikTok, and creators have produced more than 740,000 short videos featuring brands that fall into this niche. 

“Consumers aren’t just curious about the science behind actives—they want to see the proof, and TikTok Shop is where those results come to life,” said Ajay Salpekar, TikTok Shop’s head of beauty.

And, actives play an integral role in this rising trend.

“K-beauty has become a launchpad for the next generation of active ingredients. On TikTok Shop, we’re seeing incredible momentum around peptides, collagen and PDRN (salmon DNA)—ingredients that deliver visible results fast, which creators can capture on camera. Those moments of instant transformation are what resonate with our community,” he told Happi.

Brands such as Medicube, Cosrx, TirTir, Missha, Mixsoon and VT Cosmetics are leveraging TikTok Shop as a launchpad, driving unprecedented visibility across both emerging players and heritage brands, with short-form content growing 139% quarter over quarter, Salpekar added. 

Board-certified dermatologist Dr. Jessie Cheung told Happi that one of the hottest topics in biohacking and longevity right now is NAD+ and its role in anti-aging. With interest in supplements, IV drips, and even NAD+ skincare skyrocketing, Dr. Cheung noted that this is an ingredient to watch.

“NAD+ is one of the hottest chemicals in biohacking right now. It’s a coenzyme found in every cell that fuels energy production, supports DNA repair, and keeps your cells resilient. But NAD+ levels drop as we age, which is why you’re seeing it in IV drips, supplements, and even skincare. NAD+ isn’t just about feeling more energized—it’s also tied to longevity,” he said. “NAD+ skincare is still in its early days, but its potential to energize cells, repair DNA, and reverse signs of aging could make it the next frontier in regenerative beauty. Copper GHK is a powerhouse peptide—it boosts collagen, speeds up healing and reduces inflammation.”

Dermatologist Dr. Debbie Palmer told Happi that one rock star ingredient in anti-aging is vitamin C or L-ascorbic acid. 

“Vitamin C was used by ancient Egyptians in their beauty rituals to improve the skin’s radiance and firmness. Vitamin C was also used in skincare in ancient Greek and Roman civilizations for a youthful appearance. It wasn’t until the early 20th century that researchers started studying the antioxidant potential of vitamin C and how it related to collagen and elastin production in the skin,” she said. “It is now known that vitamin C protects against free radical damage from pollution, stress and the sun by donating an electron and stabilizing the free radical. This prevents the free radical damage to cellular structures like collagen and elastin. It also diminishes brown spots and redness, brightens the skin and minimizes the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles. It is a multi-purpose ingredient that both protects and repairs the skin. I recommend it to patients during the day to act as a shield of protection and at night to repair previous damage.”

A Scientific ‘Reset’

In skincare, the era of “more is more” is giving way to biotech-driven product development—a movement built on lab-grown actives, precision-fermented ingredients and bio-engineered lipids that deliver measurable results with minimal environmental impact.

Aesthetician Katarina Forster explains: “Consumers are realizing that over-complicated routines don’t equal better skin. The future of skincare is biotech-driven simplicity—products formulated with pharmaceutical precision and proven actives that truly strengthen the skin barrier and restore balance.”

Turning back the clock is a prime demand of consumers, and this is impacting development of active ingredients. As a result, the beauty market is chock full of “skinnovations” this season.

HydroPeptide launched two advanced skin health innovations: ReActivate Rx Serum and ReActivate Rx Moisturizer Pro-Collagen Night Complex.

ReActivate Rx Serum targets the full aging spectrum, visibly improving fine lines, elasticity, tone and texture, while reducing inflammation and restoring skin’s protective barrier, according to the brand. ReActivate Rx Moisturizer Pro-Collagen Night Complex contains twice the amino acids found in traditional formulas, a time-release retinol, biomimetic peptides and collagen-boosting antioxidants including a stable vitamin C derivative and inflammation-fighting NMN. When used together, the system works overnight to lift, firm and restore skin vitality, say brand executives.

“ReActivate Rx represents the culmination of over two decades of peptide innovation and clinical research,” said Annette Rubin, CEO of HydroPeptide. “Regenerative aesthetics has never been more in demand, as consumers shift from chasing quick fixes to proactively strengthening their skin’s foundation. We worked alongside leading scientists to understand not just how to stimulate collagen, but how to sustain and protect it at the cellular level—because that’s where skin health and longevity truly begin. By combining our patented technology with next-generation peptide delivery, we’ve created a system that doesn’t just treat the signs of aging, it creates the optimal environment for healthy skin cells to thrive.”

Japanese skincare brand Tatcha is tapping into the vitality of Okinawa for its new longevity serum. Seven years in the making, Tatcha’s Longevity Serum was inspired by founder Vicky Tsai’s trip to the island where residents are said to live longer. 

Longevity is important to Tatcha’s consumers.

Tatcha’s Longevity Serum contains the Okinawa Cellescence Complex. Crafted at the Tatcha Institute in Tokyo, the formula is a hybrid gel-oil serum that visibly firms, strengthens and smooths skin, while proactively delaying signs of aging by addressing cellular senescence—the buildup of so-called “zombie” cells that drive chronic inflammation (inflammaging). Tatcha says the Okinawa Cellescence Complex is a proprietary blend of “time-honored” botanicals including shikuwasa lime for tone evening, noni juice for barrier strengthening, and shell ginger for exfoliation. Together these ingredients work to reduce senescent cells and prevent future accumulation, extending skin’s healthy, youthful state. Bio-active lipids target oxidative stress to support collagen and elastin for a visibly firmer, smoother complexion and the serum’s pro-AHA prebiotic activates natural exfoliating acids to promote cell turnover and support the microbiome.

In the mass market, Neutrogena Collagen Bank Reviving Eye Gel Cream strengthens and builds collagen, while visibly improving dark circles, under eye puffiness, fine lines, elasticity and texture. With a moisturizing, refreshing formula that is ophthalmologist tested, this fragrance-free eye cream is gentle for daily use on sensitive skin and layers well under makeup. The silky eye gel cream is formulated with niacinamide to help improve tone and radiance, and patented micro-peptide technology that is two times smaller than leading anti-aging peptides. 

Estée Lauder has added to its Advanced Night Repair line with Advanced Night Repair Eye Lift + Sculpt. The “next-gen” eye serum is said to be clinically proven to lift, sculpt and redefine the eye area. Powered by Estée Lauder’s exclusive Night Peptide and hydrating hyaluronic acid, its dermatologist-inspired formula supports nightly renewal across four key zones for a smoother, more contoured look, the makers say.

The formula targets both dynamic and static lines by reducing the look of existing lines and helping to prevent new ones from forming. With a breakthrough clinical protocol, ANR Eye Lift + Sculpt is proven to help deactivate the look of dynamic lines caused by facial movement in two key eye zones. Inspired by dermatologists’ 4D approach to targeting the eye area, this advanced formula visibly improves the four dimensions of youthful eyes, remodeling eyes from every angle: undereye, lid, crow’s feet and inner corner, according to the flagship brand of the The Estée Lauder Companies.

Apple stem cells can be found in Origins’ latest skinnovation.

Origins’ latest creation is Apple Butter Cleansing Balm. The non-stripping formula is 94% naturally derived and vegan. It uses cold-pressed apple seed oil and shea butter to lock in moisture and support skin’s moisture barrier. Plant-based emollients to remove dirt and excess surface oil and glycerin to pull in moisture and keep skin hydrated.

iS Clinical, a “luxury cosmeceutical” skincare brand, has rolled out new Daily Dynamic Hydrator, which is said to be its most advanced multitasking hydrator to date. Daily Dynamic Hydrator is described as a high-performing 3-in-1 formula that helps to treat visible signs of aging, defends against daily environmental stressors, and delivers deep, lasting hydration that renews the skin. Powered by the brand’s exclusive GeneXC Technology, the formulation combines an exclusive blend of vitamin C and Extremozymes to visibly brighten and protect the skin. Exosomes and a powerful peptide aid in visibly improving firmness, elasticity and smoothing fine lines while proactively defending from further signs of aging, said the company.

Actives are key in cosmeceutical brands such as iS Clinical.

Victoria Beckham’s new Foundation Drops work to continuously improve the complexion with the cell-rejuvenating power of Augustinus Bader’s TFC8. Available in 19 shades, the foundation has a serum feel with “instantly” perfecting coverage and light-to-medium buildable, luminous natural finish that moves with skin.

Victoria Beckham partnered with Augustinus Bader to formulate tinted skincare.

TFC8 is a proprietary technology developed by Professor Augustinus Bader that is backed by more 30 years of research in applied stem cell biology and regenerative medicine. 

Additionally, Echinacea purpurea extract helps to visibly contour and firm the skin by enhancing the skin’s natural plumping processes for a fuller, more youthful appearance. Spilanthes acmella flower extract helps to reduce roughness and visibly firm and smooth. Olive leaf extract is rich in bioactive compounds that helps promote skin cell rejuvenation to help visibly improve wrinkle depth, skin texture and natural moisture barrier.

Innovations in Acne Care 

Kiehl’s has introduced a new cleansing paste that it says is clinically proven to treat acne.

The paste multi-tasks as a cleanser, spot treatment and face mask in one. It contains 2% salicylic acid to refine skin texture and reduce acne; kaolin clay and charcoal, which cleanse skin while absorbing excess oil; and cica centella and glycerin to maintain skin’s moisture barrier to reduce dryness. The formula can also be applied as an overnight spot treatment or 10-minute face mask.

According to Kiehl’s, 100% of users in a study saw clearer skin in four weeks. It is also effective in addressing four types of acne (papules, pustules, whiteheads and blackheads) in three days, said the brand.

Also addressing acne is Kiehl’s Truly Targeted Acne-Cleaning Solution, an invisible liquid patch that helps to rapidly clear pimples and whiteheads while preventing new blemishes from forming and helping protect against external aggressors. The formula acts as a spot treatment that creates a breathable seal and successfully reduces pimple color in two hours; pimple size in 24 hours; and appearance of post-blemish marks in four weeks. Key ingredients include 2% salicylic acid; 4% niacinamide to help fade post-mark discoloration; and 0.2% licorice root to soothe and calm look of redness and irritation.

Truly Targeted Acne-Clearing Solution can be used as a last step in the skin routine, as the invisible formula is said to layer seamlessly under SPF and makeup.

L’Oréal Paris has added an innovation to its “Age Perfect” line: Le Duo Serum. The multi-tasking serum is proven to target 10 signs of aging, including fine lines, firmness, radiance and tone. The formulation includes collagen peptide to improve firmness and target wrinkles as well as vitamins B3 and C to re-ignite radiance and skin tone evenness.

For shade matching on this tinted serum, consumers can tap L’Oréal Paris’ AI-powered virtual beauty assistant, Beauty Genius. 

Beyond color matching, the use of artificial intelligence (AI) continues to gain traction across the beauty marketplace as brands look to deliver consumer-specific skincare formulations.

In the indie realm, Proven, a personalized skincare brand that leverages AI to create customized beauty products, is lifting the veil off its newest collection: SkinSpecific.  The collection builds on the success of Proven’s initial personalized formulas, first introduced in 2017. Since then, the brand has raised $12.2 million in Series A funding to support its growth, including retail expansion into Sephora. In 2022, the brand was awarded a US patent for its personalization process. 

SkinSpecific tackles three of the most common skin concerns: acne, hyperpigmentation and aging. The launch marks the first time consumers can access the brand’s proprietary Skin Health Index via ready-made products designed for specific needs. 

The index is billed as a comprehensive, data-driven engine analyzing more than 20,000 ingredients, 28 million customer reviews, 4,000 scientific papers, information about 100,000 individual skincare products and environmental and lifestyle factors affecting skin health.

Each SkinSpecific routine features three-step system consisting of a cleanser, SPF and night cream formulated with the brand’s Skin Health Index. While Proven continues to offer fully personalized formulations through an in-depth skin assessment quiz, SkinSpecific provides immediate solutions for the most common concerns. This dual approach allows customers to experience the brand’s scientific methodology through targeted routines, serving as a gateway to the brand’s personalized solutions and expanding its reach to a broader audience, officials said.

“Our philosophy has always been that skincare shouldn’t be complicated, it should be precisely what your skin needs,” said Dr. Amy Yuan, co-founder and chief technology officer of Proven. “With SkinSpecific, we’re addressing the most common skin concerns using the wealth of knowledge from our Skin Health Index database. We’ve thoughtfully formulated each collection, creating effective solutions that work in harmony with your skin.”

Future Opportunities in Skin Care

In 2026, anti-aging and acne care brands are likely to find opportunities for growth in prestige and mass, with the latter fueled by consumers who want high-performing beauty products at accessible price points.   

According to Jennifer Famiano, beauty industry analyst at Circana, in skin care, masstige brands are delivering double-digit growth, enabling mass skincare to outperform prestige in terms of both dollar and unit sales. These results reflect a broader consumer shift toward efficacy without premium pricing, with mass retailers increasingly offering elevated options that meet these expectations. 

Prestige beauty, meanwhile, is being defined by innovation, elevated formats and experiential appeal. Although prestige skincare saw a slight decline overall, body care remained resilient, underscoring consumers’ continued investment in indulgent and results-driven self-care.

“The storytelling aspect of self-care rituals is becoming increasingly science-backed, further driving the convergence between beauty and healthcare,” noted Clare Hennigan, principal analyst, beauty and personal care at Mintel. “This shift is bringing cellular health and preventative measures into sharp focus, redefining the role of beauty in consumers’ lives.”

Collagen & Mud Face Masks Rule Facial Cosmetics

It’s no secret preserving the youthfulness of one’s mug is top of mind for beauty enthusiasts. After all, makeup won’t look seamless without a “snatched” face and a virtually poreless complexion.

That’s why, collagen and mud masks are the top-growing face mask products in the US per Spate‘s Popularity Index.

The collagen mask trend has grown by 67.8% compared to last year, and across platforms, per analysts. On Google, searches are up 42.8%, while TikTok views have grown by 77.0%, and Instagram engagement has increased by 85.7%. TikTok currently leads the conversation with 72.6% popularity share, totaling 8.7 million average weekly views, while it is averaging 31,500 monthly searches on Google.

When it comes to brand ownership, K-beauty is A1. Top-searched brands include Biodance with 38,000 monthly searches, Medicube with 37,700 searches and Mediheal with 1,900 searches. The figures evince how Korean innovation and accessible price points continue to define the category.

On TikTok, the most popular branded hashtags mirror this dominance. #Sungboonpartner has 2.5 million weekly views, #medicube comes in second with 826,200 and #biodance comes in third with 509,400. While Medicube and Biodance have long led the conversation, Sungboon has recently taken market share, largely due to a strong paid content strategy.

Analysts say the sentiment around collagen masks is mostly positive, with an 8.4/10 consumer rating. Top retailer hashtags like #amazonprimeday (3.0 million weekly views), #amazonskincare (559,800) and #tiktokshopcreatorpicks (483,800) also highlight the importance of being available on both Amazon and TikTok Shop to reach and attract customers. 

Analysts advise it’s easier to get influencers talking about products when they can earn affiliate income through both platforms.

It may feel like a hot minute since beauty enthusiasts were dipping their fingers in the satisfying feel of a mud mask, but Spate says the nostalgic at-home spa essential is having a major resurgence.

The trend has grown by 61.0% compared to last year, and across platforms. On Google, searches are up 12.5%, while TikTok views have grown by 221.3% compared to last year. Although Instagram engagement has dipped, Google now owns 53.6% of the popularity share, proving that people are actively searching for this product format.

The mud mask trend currently receives 30,000 average monthly searches on Google and 1.6 million weekly views on TikTok. The top benefit users are searching alongside this trend is “clearing” (3,100 monthly searches), highlighting that most shoppers are turning to these masks to unclog pores, clear congestion and help prevent acne. Top-searched brands include Glamglow (17,200 monthly searches), Queen Helene (3,900) and Wnp (2,400)—all known for purifying, exfoliating and tightening the skin.

On TikTok, related branded hashtags include #brmud (743,600 weekly views), largely driven by Cardi B’s viral mention of the brand and a robust paid content strategy, as well as #medicube (213,500) and #glamglow (2,500). Interestingly, this trend has a very high paid view share at 80.1%, meaning most of its visibility comes from sponsored content. While analysts say money talks, for brands without the budget for large-scale paid campaigns, a smart alternative is to seed or gift products to smaller creators who can share candid before-and-after shots.

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