Plant-Derived Actives, Extractions Help Drive Cosmetic Innovations

Skin care and hair care benefits from an array of beauty ingredients were on display at the most-recent FCE Cosmetique.

Consumer awareness about the origins of their beauty products is driving innovation in Latin America. That was evident at the recent FCE Cosmetique exhibition in São Paolo in December. The 25th exhibition took place after a two-year hiatus caused by the global covid pandemic. FCE Cosmetique attracted 9,300 attendees. They were drawn by the latest ingredients from the largest chemical distributors in Brazil. On display were vegan, sustainable and novel sensor ingredients.

Plant-Derived Actives
The demand for plant-based food and ingredients has surged, driven by self-preservation and above all, reducing the environment impact. In this way, Galena showed formulas with plant-derived actives. Among them the standouts are:

• Collagen One Serum is described as a smart vegan rejuvenation solution. It is formulated with Col-Frag Remastered by Lipotrue. This sustainable technology allows chemists to obtain a molecule identical to a fragment of the human collagen type I sequence. The ingredient is said to boost the collagen synthesis, tightening the dermis and epidermis while preventing wrinkles. Collagen One Serum is also said to promote a sensorial feel, thanks to the Cobiogum by Combiosa, a 100% natural gelling agent, obtained from the endosperm of the Caesalpina spinosa seeds, a native tree from Peru.
• AdipoBurn (Anti Cellulite Cream) is a functional body massage cream. It combines the hydration of Oat Lipid by Oat Cosmetic, an oat lipid complex obtained from Avena sativa, with Lipotrue’s Silstem-U, a green active ingredient that mimics the action of neurotransmitters, contributing to the conversion of white adipocyte into brown adipocyte. It activates lipolytic processes, inducing a slimming effect and cellulite reduction.
• Avena Stick (Hydration Booster) includes the benefits of Avena Plex by Oat Cosmetic, an active obtained from oats, rich in ceramides and non-comedogenic phospholipids, that contributes to skin hydration and modulation of the Natural Moisturizing Factor (NMF). The ingredient is also said to reduce wrinkles and boost hydration for a more youthful complexion. The stick format allows for long-lasting hydration in the driest areas of the body, according to the company.

Lipoid Kosmetik’s PhytoCodine, promoted by Lipid Ingredients & Technologies, is billed as the world’s first concentrate of natural matrikine-like peptides derived from cedar nuts. Matrikines are dermal messenger peptides that instruct skin cells to reorganize and strengthen the extracellular matrix. The renewal of the extracellular matrix optimizes skin structure and improves age-related properties of mature skin, such as elasticity, density, wrinkles and sagging.

Lipoid also presented Herbamilk Eco by Lipoid Kosmetik, a concept that stems from the non-dairy milk trend. As veganism gains in popularity, the movement is expanding from food to other elements of consumer’s lives, such as beauty and personal care. Herbamilk Eco combines natural plant oils and natural plant extracts with the hydrogenated phospholipids. Herbamilk Eco is also Cosmos-approved and it is said to impart moisturizing, re-fattening and emollient benefits. It imparts a milky appearance to products in addition to facilitating the incorporation of oils into surfactants.

Sustainable Extraction
Natural profiles and efficacy benefits aside, ingredients are extracted in a more sustainable way, which boost the product´s performance and the benefits to the environment.

Case in point, Sarfam promoted Prenylium by Clariant, a sustainably sourced root-powered active ingredient for anti-aging skin care. A white mulberry tree root extract, it protects the skin matrisome from degradation due to time and UV exposure.

Sarfam also presented Hidro’Feel by Berkem, a natural active ingredient, extracted from Marshmallow flowers in a 100% sustainable way. Rich in sugars, polyphenols and hydroxycinnamic acids, it balances the cutaneous microbiota and restores moisture with a fast and long-lasting effect.

Sensorial Experience
The perception of cosmetic effectiveness is directly related to a pleasant sensory experience. It is a much sought-after benefit in the era of self-care and pleasure. In this way, Grupo MCassab presented solutions with vastly different sensorial profiles:

• Natural Mineral Sunblock SPF 50, formulated with a natural water and oil emulsifier that promotes a silicone sensory emulsion, thanks to Emulium Illustro by Gattefossé. The ingredient creates PEG-free, natural, non-comedogenic, long-lasting fluid textures. Natural Mineral Sunblock SPF 50 also contains Emolid CC, a 100% vegetable emollient, which ensures a rich sensory feel with a velvety touch during application.
• Leave In Conditioner is said to deliver outstanding conditioning, in addition to a sensory feel and foamy creaminess. The formula promotes an anti-frizz effect as well as a light, natural and silky sensory feel following application, thanks to Oxisense S0440 by Oxiteno. It is an innovative conditioning agent for reducing hair frizz. Flocare C 122 PF by SNF is another ingredient found in hair conditioners. It creates a stable, rich and dense foam.

Another sensory concept came from Tovani Benzaquen Ingredientes, which presented Funny Jelly Shower Kids—Hair & Body.

This novel concept was specially developed to entertain children during bath time. It is formulated with Cosmos-approved texturizing biopolymer, Hydagen Clean developed by BASF, which is billed as a natural alternative to synthetic polymers.

Today’s consumers are focused on nature and sustaining it, and conscious consumption. Brands that follow this path appeal to a fast-growing audience. 

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Daniela Ferreira
Correspondent
danief@uol.com.br
55-11-993880867
 
Daniela Ferreira is a marketing and communication professional in the cosmetic market. She has a master’s degree in fashion from the University of São Paulo (USP). The study presented in the thesis, integrated product launching in fashion and perfume, mainly comprising marketing studies related to brand, product and consumer behavior. At present, she is lecturer on marketing issues. Her expertise comprises managing and launching products, communication planning and market studies for identifying new business opportunities.