Perceived Perfection

Women want to look their best. Or better. And some want to look like Kim Kardashian. And that’s where makeup takes center stage. 

“There are two different makeup realities out there right now,” noted Sebastien Tardif, co-founder of Veil Cosmetics. One is heavy, makeup “drag/Kardashian/90’s” transformative makeup, and the other is fresh, bright natural glowing skin with the occasional color or feature accent.

“The former,” Tardif said, “is essentially living behind the camera on social media like Instagram (IG) and is popular with Millennials. The latter is what you see in beauty editorials, fashion magazines and fashion shows (beauty done by actual makeup professionals not bloggers) as well as in real life, on the street. The interesting fact is that when I post on my IG page a fresh/natural glowing complexion, the quantity of likes is off the charts. I think people appreciate and admire the transformative aspect of makeup, but relate a lot more to a weightless looking beauty and that’s never going to go out of style.”

Makeup artist Sally Duvall, who trained under Kevyn Aucoin and has been touted by Allure and New York Magazine as being among New York City’s top makeup artists, looks for “makeup that doesn’t look like makeup,” she told Happi. “And I think most women do which is why we are seeing the rise of BB/CC creams and serum foundations.”

Makeup and More
The beauty marketplace has seen a surge in these hybrid skin care/makeup products alongside more traditional pressed powders and liquids, prep products and an up-and-coming contender, the cushion compact. This wide array of formats—and some enticing from social media—has helped today’s consumers to achieve looks they desire quickly and effectively, whether their goal is to appear au natural or “on fleek.”

With both looks, time is of the essence—in terms of how quickly it can be applied and how long it will last.

“Women are looking for fast beauty solutions that offer multi-tasking possibilities and makeup that does not feel mask-like but rather weightless and that stays put all day,” added Tardif.

“Ease of use is an overarching trend,” noted Shannon Romanowski, director, Mintel Reports, Health, Household, Beauty & Personal Care. 

Mintel’s research finds that social media and high-tech tools are fueling the makeup sector. Products like Sephora’s Pocket Contour app, L’Oréal Make-up Genius and YouCam Makeup, and the seemingly endless vault of material from bloggers and vloggers, has brought contouring and strobing techniques to the masses, enticing everyday women to test the waters with new products.

“The consumer is much more empowered than she was before,” said Karen Grant, global beauty industry analyst with The NPD Group, noting the role social media has played in easing the fear factor when it comes to makeup application.

Their willingness to experiment has been a boon to the beauty business. According to NPD, the US prestige beauty industry rose 7% to $16 billion in 2015, with makeup experiencing the healthiest sales growth at 13% for the year, driven by concealer and facial products like primers and contour, highlighting and sculpting kits. NPD data shows that following dramatic growth between 2014, BB cream dollar sales are down, but demand for CC products continues to rise (see chart below).

Today’s Toolkit
Recent rollouts from mass to luxury show just how far facial cosmetics have come in recent years. Companies are delivering more finely crafted, multi-tasking formulations.

Often, a primer serves as the platform for a flawless face. Options range from Physicians Formula’s Color Correcting primer stick, which can be used under makeup or alone, to Nyx Cosmetics’ new Color Correcting Liquid Primers. The Nyx range has five shades that address different concerns: yellow, which illuminates fair to medium complexions; green to neutralize redness; pink, which gives luminosity to dull skin; a peach that restores the healthy glow of medium to dark complexions; and blue, which brightens sallowness in fair complexions. The formulation incorporates glycerin, which helps even out tone and provides a natural glow, according to the company.

Hourglass has rolled out Ambient Light Correcting Primer, a new collection of light correcting primers said to neutralize, brighten and soften light, refining the appearance of the complexion for a soft subtle glow with a texture and feel unlike any other primer, according to the brand. Shades include Dim Light (a natural beige that neutralizes light to create soft, dim lighting with the perfect balance of warm and cool tones), Luminous Light (a champagne pearl that brightens light to create a luminous candlelit glow) and Mood Light (a soft, sheer pink that softens light to create the “most forgiving” mood lighting).

From Estée Lauder is the new Genuine Glow collection, billed by the beauty giant as hybrid “good-for-you” moisturizing makeup formulas that have “transformative textures” that work to hydrate, prime and tone skin to reveal a natural, fresh-faced glow. The line’s Priming Moisture Balm has light-diffusing technology that blurs imperfections; rice bran protein and glucosamine that improve skin’s natural hydration and gently refine texture, respectively; and plum and molasses extract that helps even skin tone. In addition, the R&D team added natural lecithin to minimize the look of pores and help balance excess oil.

Dr. Jart, which received an investment from Estée Lauder late last year, has added the Illuminating BB Brush, which is said to deliver the seamless application of a BB cream and highlighter in one product. Ultra-fine luminescent pigment pearls are released to create the appearance of voluminous and radiant skin, while naturally covering blemishes. The pearls reflect light creating a brighter-looking skin tone. For extra hydration, emollient oil locks in moisture to preventing it from leaving and keeping skin soft and dewy, according to the company.

In mid-June, Veil Cosmetics relaunched its popular Complexion Fix, a breathable concealer and highlighter. This long-lasting, hypoallergenic and hydrating formula evens out and brightens the skin instantly, while weightlessly veiling areas of concern with buildable coverage and light infused pigments, according to the brand.

Another multi-tasking product comes by way of Hourglass. Its new Illume Sheer Color Trio—a crème to satin finish palette featuring bronzer, blush and highlighter—delivers everything needed for definition and color in a kit that is “highly blendable and mistake-proof.”

In addition to contouring and strobing, there’s increased chatter this season about “baking”—an older technique that’s finding new life in today’s marketplace. Users allow a powder to sit on the skin for several minutes so the natural heat from the face helps set the base foundation and concealer underneath.

But we aren’t talking about your mother’s pressed powders. New options include YBF Beauty’s Neutralizing Pressed Powder, a translucent yellow powder that color corrects and creates a velvety-sheer radiant finish as it neutralizes redness, diminishes the appearance of pores and blemishes and absorbs oils, according to the company.

And just last month, Rodial rolled out Banana Powder, a versatile yellow shade that suits a range of skin tones, correcting surface redness and pink undertones and neutralizing blue under eye cycles. This mattifying powder can set makeup and contour the face by the baking trend, according to Rodial, which suggests users apply it under the eyes, around the T-zone and on the bridge of the nose and chin, leave it on for 10 minutes and then brush away the excess.

The Next Wave?
Another category to watch in facial cosmetics is the cushion compact, a format that has been pushing its way from East to West led by K-beauty brands like AmorePacific that tout easy to use, skin caring formulations in clever packaging. However only a handful of European/American brands have tested the waters at this point.

“Cushion compacts are the biggest innovation, but are still not mainstream,” noted Romanowski of Mintel.

Are they destined become the next hot commodity in facial cosmetics?

“Brands are looking to see if it will stick,” answered Romanowski, who recalled that even the popular BB cream sector was  “a slow build.”