Brazil is the No. 2 fragrance market in the world. Last year, Brazilian fragrance sales reached $6.7 billion; that’s ahead of Germany ($2.9 billion), France ($2.8 billion) and UK ($2.4 billion), according to Euromonitor International. Who’s No. 1? The US, with sales of $11.6 billion.

The use of scented products is important for many Brazilians—even when they are stuck at home, as they were during the pandemic. According to a Mintel study, 45% of consumers said their favorite scent is an important part of their identity. But fragrance attributes vary based on location. For example, when out of the house, consumers prefer heavier, longer-lasting scents. At home, however, they prefer lighter fragrances; as a result, they are more likely to use sprays, body lotions and cologne. This analysis underscores the expansion of the clean beauty movement into the perfume category, for the next 3-5 years, according to Mintel. Growing demand for “natural” formulas that do not pose risks to health and to the planet is supported by Brazilians’ appreciation for sustainable and ethical credentials.

According to Fernanda Pigatto, global partnerships director, Beautystreams, the movement toward transparency is part of the larger wellness trend in beauty; clean and sustainable fragrances have a role to play in wellness. A growing segment of the population seeks fragrances that are beneficial for both mental and physical health. While the interest in formulas has been a long-standing trend in skin care, it is a relatively new trend in fragrance. This is partly due to the fragrance industry traditionally cultivating a notion of mystery, and fragrance often being blamed for skin allergies.

Today’s consumers are more interested in, and increasingly aware of, fragrance composition. That interest gave impetus to the birth of clean fragrance brands. Innovations in clean fragrance and formulas pioneered a shift in fragrance formulations to deliver hedonic and technical performance. Pigatto notes that among global consumption trends, today’s consumer, especially within the younger generation, looks beyond the label and seeks out brands and products that have a positive social and economic impact for the benefit of people, animals and planet. It is translated by business models that authentically care, pushing the beauty industry to adopt new initiatives focusing on ethical ingredient sourcing, more socially responsible practices, increased transparency and local community empowerment. At the same time, brands are building more transparent and reliable supply chains by ramping up their efforts to address rising customer skepticism around authenticity and transparency.

This theme strongly aligns with Natura’s DNA. Last year, Natura &Co was featured in the ranking of the world’s top 100 sustainable companies in a survey  conducted by Corporate Knights, a Canadian media and research company specializing in corporate sustainability. This rigorous assessment of public companies with revenue more than $1 billion, also ranked Natura & Co No. 42 in 2021 out of the 8,080 companies evaluated and the No. 1 company in the personal care category.

Joana Miranda, Natura’s olfactory unit manager, points to the company’s expertise in bioprospecting, a process that involves exploring Brazilian biodiversity in search of new ingredients. With more than 22 years of experience in this area, Natura has already developed 21 exclusive ingredients, some of them never used in the global perfume industry. This sustainable and collaborative approach also benefits supplier communities by sharing profits and promoting socioeconomic development.

On average, Natura launches a new oil or ingredient every year, although it greatly depends on the innovation process. Some ingredients can make olfactory sense but cannot be proved safe. For example, in a recent expedition, hundreds of potential ingredients were identified, but only two will be developed and enter the company’s pipeline, according to Miranda.

Miranda also explains that technology is widely used to ensure the quality of fragrances, which is anchored in three important attributes: Impact, that is its first impression; Trail, which relates to the fragrance sillage; and Performance, which is the longevity of the fragrance, measured up to 10 hours.

The creative process can also rely on a database built with big data and AI, which provides all the ingredients and assists perfumers in achieving these three attributes more quickly. However, Miranda emphasizes that this tool is not related to the creative process itself, but rather serves it.

Indeed, the process of creating and developing a new fragrance involves many stages, from audience research to selecting the best ingredients that, when combined, will translate the main messages, concepts, packaging and emotions that the product aims to convey.

Consumer Focus Groups

Natura is involving the public in its creative process more than ever. For the development of its new fragrance, Humor Transforma, the company collaborated with 80 people, ages 18-29, from Brazil, Argentina and Mexico. The move opened a dialogue-created space by placing Gen Z within the brand’s creative center.

All participants took part in interviews so that Natura could better understand their aspirations, values and opinions. The sessions were moderated and evaluated by Natura Perfumer Veronica Kato. She captured their concerns and aspirations; guiding these young people through a range of olfactory notes and images to generate discussions. The aim was to provide them with an understanding of how a fragrance can help them express themselves to the world with a product that represents the new generation. This is not the first time that Humor co-created with young people. Last year, Natura launched Humor Liberta, a fragrance that was developed together with 900 participants from different countries to celebrate the free, light and fluid spirit.

“I was very happy and grateful to participate once again in a creation with such talented and diverse young people, who certainly dictate the paths of perfumery worldwide,” recalled Kato. “I was thrilled when they said that comfort embraces and that every transformation calls for this embrace. We welcomed this insight and brought cumaru in the heart of the fragrance to elicit this “warm” comfort in contrast to the electrifying energy of the fruity and spicy notes to create Humor Transforma.”

Gen Z consumers are not afraid to take a stand and boycott products or services if they find a brand’s position on important matters—such as health, environment, ethics, community, diversity, human rights or animal welfare—are not aligned with their own values. These conscientious consumers are well-informed, driven by purpose and actively seek out brands that share and uphold their core principles, according to Kato.

Indeed, these purpose-driven consumers actively seek out a brand’s stance on important issues such as environment, ethics, community and diversity among others, to discover ones that align with their values.

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Daniela Ferreira
Correspondent
danief@uol.com.br
55-11-993880867
 
Daniela Ferreira is a marketing and communication professional in the cosmetic market. She has a master’s degree in fashion from the University of São Paulo (USP). The study presented in the thesis, integrated product launching in fashion and perfume, mainly comprising marketing studies related to brand, product and consumer behavior. At present, she is lecturer on marketing issues. Her expertise comprises managing and launching products, communication planning and market studies for identifying new business opportunities.