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May 1, 2020
By: Christine Esposito
Managing Editor
Acme-Hardesty Company Blue Bell, PA Tel: 800-223-7054 sales@acme-hardesty.com www.acme-hardesty.com Azelaic Acid INCI: Azelaic acid Applications: Used to treat skin by reducing the growth of bacteria in the follicle and rebalancing keratinization Use level: 10-20% Attributes: Azelaic acid is the unsung hero of skin care acids. Cosmetic grade azelaic acid is an antibacterial dicarboxylic acid and anti-proliferative agent. It has ant-inflammation properties and applications in anti-aging formulation, hair growth stimulation, hyper-pigmentation reduction and clear skin solutions. AlphaVelvety INCI: Blend of orbignya oleifera seed oil, virola sebifera nut oil, theobroma grandiflorum seed butter, carapa guaianensis seed oil, macadamia integrifolia seed oil and bisabolol. Applications: Due to its remarkable matte and velvety sensory, this butter improves the moisturize and texture of the skin/lips and delivers softness to the hair. Use level: 1-3% Attributes: This 100% natural active is stable and easy to handle. AlphaVelvety was developed with an original and exclusive ratio of fatty acids, ensuring comprehensive formulation applications. GaleHemp O/W INCI: Polyglyceryl-4 hemp seedate (and) caprylyl/capryl glucoside (and) water. Applications: Stable emulsions with moisturizing and emollient properties, pleasant light and silky sensation even when formulations contain a large quantity of oily substances. It imparts a refreshing sensation during application. Use level: 4-6% Attributes: GaleHemp O/W is a PEG-free, nonionic, OW emulsifier that is an alternative to traditional ethoxylated emulsifiers and is most suitable for less viscous formulations and gel creams. GaleHemp O/W leaves a pleasant light, silky sensation and is COSMOS certifiable, making it ideal for clean beauty formulations. Ash Ingredients, Inc. Glen Rock, NJ Tel: 201-689-1322 customerservice@ashingredients.com www.ashingredients.com Finester 2009 INCI: Polyglyceryl lauroyl lactylate (proposed). Applications: Emulsifier, pigment wetting, skin conditioning. Use level: 0.5-20%. Attributes: A vegetable-based, nonionic lauryol lactylate that offers very mild, moisturizing cleansing, skin conditioning with the added benefits of pigment wetting of inorganic sunscreens and color pigments. Finester 5118 INCI: Glycerol hydroxystearate, glyceryl adipate, glyceryl stearate (proposed) Applications Moisturization, thickening, skin conditioning. Use level: 0.5-20%. Attributes: A vegetable-based alternative to lanolin with greater water absorption properties to lanolin. Excellent water in oil emulsifier. Finester 6128 INCI: Bis diglyceryl polyacyladipate-2 (proposed). Applications: Moisturization, thickening, skin conditioning. Use level: 0.5 – 50%. Attributes: A vegetable-based alternative to lanolin with greater water absorption properties to lanolin. Excellent water in oil emulsifier BASF Care Creations Florham Park, NJ beautycare-na@basf.com www.carecreations.basf.us Nephydrat INCI: Glycerin (and) water (and) nephelium lappaceum (peel) extract. Applications in skin care: Anti-aging, face care, skin care. Use level: Tested for clinical at 0.01-0.1% for claims. Attributes: An extract from the rambutan peel, it provides measurable and perceivable increased skin hydration and a uniform, fresh complexion. It helps increase taurine transporter/taurine for greater water retention, supports natural ceramide production and energizes the skin for an optimal skin barrier function. Inolixir INCI: Glycerin (and) water (and) inonotus obliquus (mushroom) extract. Applications: Face care. Use level: Test for clinical at 1% for claims. Attributes: Subcritical water extract of Chaga mushroom from the wild Canadian forest is an adaptogen believed to reduce inflammation; Inolixir alleviates tired and sensitive skin—clinical results demonstrate redness reduction in as early as one week. Hydrasensyl Glucan Green INCI: Water (and) beta-glucan. Applications: face care, body care, men care, hand care, after sun care. Use level: 1-5% (Tested for clinical at 2.5% for claims). Attributes: A multifunctional active that combines the properties of collagen and hyaluronic acid and provides the highest purity beta glucan versus three leading benchmarks as well as multiple benefits to the formulation and to the skin. Biosil Technologies Allendale, NJ | Tel: 201-825-8800 Philip@biosiltech.com www.biosiltech.com Algyl INCI: water (and) glycerin (and) Gigartina stellata/ Kappaphycus alvarezii extract (and) Corallina officinalis extract. Applications: Marine guardian of skin barrier functionality. Use level: 1.0 – 4.0%. Attributes: Algyl induces multifunctional barrier activation through innovative modes of action for strengthening and regenerating skin barrier functions while limiting barrier deterioration. As a consequence, with Algyl, the skin is more hydrated, better protected and more resistant to external damage with healthier appearance. Chemyunion Manalapan, NJ Tel: 732-955-1298 contact@chemyunion.com chemyunion.com/en Agen INCI: Canola Oil (and) malus domestica fruit extract (and) zingiber officinale (ginger) extract. Applications: Add into the oil phase at 75-80ºC; Emulsions and serums with antiaging benefits; Agen can exudate during its shelf life. In that case, homogenize it by stirring without compromising its stability. Use level: 2.0%. Attributes: Agen is an antiaging active ingredient which acts through epigenetic regulation improving the firmness, elasticity and redensification of the skin, in addition to reducing wrinkles and stimulating the renewal and cellular differentiation, guaranteeing a younger and healthier skin. Cellfie INCI: Acqua (and) propanediol (and) glycerin (and) thymus vulgaris extract (and) lecithin. Applications: Emulsions, serums and gels. Use level: 2.0% Attributes: Cellfie is an efficient and accurate system to deliver Thymus vulgaris (thyme) extract to act upon adipocytes for skin and wrinkle lipo-filling stimulation through a non-invasive way, promoting a remarkable rejuvenation with natural-looking. CLR Chemisches Laboratorium Dr. Kurt Richter Berlin, Germany Tel: +49 30 851026-0 info@clr-berlin.com www.clr-berlin.com CutiBiome CLR INCI: Octyldodecanol, leptospermum scoparium branch/leaf oil, piper nigrum fruit extract, magnolia officinalis bark extract. Applications: Anti-acne, soothing, calming, anti-stress. Use level: 1.5-3.0%. Attributes: CutiBiome CLR re-establishes the natural balance between skin and its microbiota. It acts both on the biological processes in the skin and on the most virulent microbes. CutiBiome CLR regulates sebum production and perceivably reduces dandruff and acne. DSM Parsippany, NJ Tel: 973-257-8222 pc.communications@dsm.com www.dsm.com/personal-care/en_US/home.html Parsol HS INCI: Phenylbenzimidazole sulfonic acid Applications in skin care: Parsol HS is a UVB absorber ideal for water-based transparent sunscreen products like gels or clear sprays that provides a tremendous SPF boost in combination with a wide range of sun filters combinations. Use level: Recommended 1-4%. Attributes: An off-white powder, Parsol HS is water soluble on neutralization and thus compatible with most cosmetic ingredients. It also has an excellent photostability and safety profile. It is specifically recommended for light feel day care products and sunscreens. Parsol ZX INCI: Zinc oxide, triethoxycaprilylsilane. Applications: Parsol ZX can be used as a broadband protection UV filter for sun, skin and makeup applications. It can be used alone or in combination with other organic and inorganic filters. Use level: 25% Maximum. Attributes: Parsol ZX is a zinc oxide grade UV filter with a particle size distribution ensuring SPF and UVA best performance and blue light protection with optimized sensory. Evonik Corporation Richmond, VA Tel: 804 727-0700 EvonikPC@Evonik.com evonik.com/personalcare Tego Remo 95 MB INCI: Sorbitan caprylate, glyceryl oleate Applications: Bath, shower, facial cleansing. Use level: 0.1-3.0%. Attributes: Tego Remo 95 MB is a natural-based thickener with emollient properties. It provides efficient thickening, particularly in surfactant formulations, with good viscosity and shear thinning behavior. Aside from its excellent sustainability attributes, the product provides skin feel and moisturizing benefits. Bodyflux Olive INCI: Ceramide NP. Applications: Moisturizing body products, hand & foot creams, nature-inspired products. Use level: 0.1-0.5%. Attributes: Bodyflux Olive delivers the power of ceramide technology through the naturalness of olive oil. The COSMOS-approved product uses a biotechnological process to generate a ceramide complex using organic olive oil. Per in vivo tests, it provides superb skin moisturization performance. Rovisome Sensitive NG INCI: Water/aqua; glycerin; lecithin; dipotassium glycyrrhizate; calendula officinalis extract; lonicera caprifolium flower extract; lonicera japonica flower extract; benzyl alcohol; benzoic acid; dehydroacetic acid. Applications: Sensitive skin care formulations. Use level: 2.0-3.0%. Attributes: Rovisome Sensitive NG provides deep relief for your sensitive skin. The product uses delivery technology to transport natural extracts to the skin, reducing visible and non-visible skin irritation, including reduction of irritation caused by cosmetic ingredients like retinol. Gattefossé Saint-Priest, France Tel: 33-4-72-22-98 00 marketingpc@gattefosse.com www.gattefosse.com Emulium Illustro INCI: Polyglyceryl-6 polyhydroxystearate (and) polyglyceryl-6 polyricinoleate. Applications: emulsifier for lotions and creams. Use level: 3-5%. Attributes: Emulium Illustro is a water-in-oil emulsifier highly compatible with pigments and UV filters, but also with all kinds of cosmetic ingredients. PEG-free, COSMOS approved, it perfectly meets consumer requirements in terms of naturality and formulator expectations in performance and flexibility. Genomatica San Diego, CA Tel: 858-824-1771 brontide@genomatica.com www.brontidebg.com Brontide Natural Butylene Glycol INCI: Butylene glycol. Applications: Creams, moisturizers, serums, sun care. Use level: 2-6%. Attributes: Brontide is ideal for manufacturers developing new, natural, sustainable products, or looking to reformulate products by replacing petro-based glycol with a natural alternative that delivers the same benefits. Natural, sustainable, high performing; humectant; antimicrobial booster; viscosity decreasing agent; solvent; adds texture/body. Jeen International Fairfield, NJ Tel: 973-439-1401 info@jeen.com www.jeen.com OleoSil INCI: varies. Applications: improves texture, feel, slip, application, play time, residual feel, viscosity. Use level: 0.5-25.0%. Attributes: OleoSil naturally-derived silicone elastomer gels are up to 90% natural and are specifically tailored for end-use function, and act as sensorial modifiers vastly improving texture, feel, slip, application and play time. They offer the formulator endless opportunities to alter sensorial impact. Jiangsu Jland Biotech Co. Jingjiang, Jiangsu, P. R. China Tel: 0086 523 82881889 yyl@jlandbiotech.com www.jlandbiotech.com Biollagen collagen (SSE) INCI: SH-polypeptide – 123(1375784-79-4). Applications: Anti-wrinkle, anti-aging, repairing, moisturizing, lightening. Use level: 0.005-0.5%. Biollagen collagen (GAE) INCI: Water (7732-18-5) glycerin (56-81-5) 1,2- hexanediol (6920-22-5) SH- polypeptide-123 (1375784-79-4). Applications: Anti-wrinkle, anti-aging, repairing, moisturizing, lightening. Use Levels: 0.5-15%. Attributes: Biollagen is an animal-free collagen, wholly-derived from Pichia Pastoris engineering yeast using our patented high-density fermentation and efficient separation and purification process. Safe to use with non-allergenic, has 200 times the performance of traditional animal-extracted collagen. Koster Keunen Watertown, CT |Tel: 860-945-3333 info@kosterkeunen.com www.kosterkeunen.com Kostol ApiFree INCI: Behenyl behenate, polyhydroxy-stearic acid, polyglyceryl-10 stearate, Euphorbia cerifera (candelilla) wax, sodium stearoyl lactylate. Applications: Oil gelling, optimizing emulsion stability, thickening. Use level: 1-15%. Attributes: Natural, vegan wax with hydrophilic properties and oil gelling capabilities designed for an alternative to PEG modified beeswax. NaturlAtum INCI: Canola oil, Ricinus communis (castor) seed oil, polyhydroxystearic acid, Euphorbia cerifera (candelilla) wax, Helianthus annuus (sunflower) seed wax, tocopheryl acetate. Applications: Natural alternative to petrolatum. Use level: 1-50%. Attributes: NaturalAtum improves thermal stability, emolliency and lubricity. Formulators will find that it also acts as a plasticizer. NaturalAtum reduces moisture loss and creates barrier properties in cosmetic products. It can be used in any cosmetic preparation in place of petrolatum. Orange Peel Wax INCI: Citrus aurantium dulcis (orange) peel wax. Applications: Natural emollient. Use level: 1-5%. Attributes: Natural emollient that provides unique texture and energetic scent and color. Lipoid Kosmetik AG Steinhausen, Switzerland Tel: 0041 41 748 33 33 u.baetz@lipoid-kosmetik.com www.lipoid-kosmetik.com Blossom Honey Pro INCI: Glycerin, aqua, mel extract. Applications: Nourishing, moisturizing and volumizing cosmetic applications. Use level: 0.5-5%. Attributes: COSMOS-certified, substantiated extract based on organic acacia honey with following benefits: nourishment and energy supply; powerful moisturization through increased water attraction and storage; enhancement of skin volume and plumping by generating osmotic pressure. PhytoCodine INCI: Glycerin, water, lecithin, hydrolyzed pinus sibirica seedcake extract, acanthopanax senticosus (eleuthero) root extract, pentylene glycol, sodium hydroxide, tocopherol. Applications: Optimizes skin structure and improves age-related properties of mature skin, such as elasticity, density, wrinkles and sagging. Use level: 0.5-3%. Attributes: The world’s first concentrate of plant-derived, matrikine-like peptides, it reprograms fibroblasts to build-up extracellular matrix components characteristic of younger looking skin. Formation of extracellular matrix. Improvement of facial surface and density. Rejuvenating effect of mature skin. SLM Eco INCI: Aqua (water), caprylic/capric triglyceride, hydrogenated phosphatidylcholine, pentylene glycol, glycerin, butyrospermum parkii (shea) butter, squalane, ceramide NP. Applications: Repair & protect, biomimetic lipid matrix, skin feel enhancer. Use level: 10-30%. Attributes: An all-natural, COSMOS-approved, irritation-free and skin recovering cream matrix free of classical emulsifiers. It restores the stratum corneum lipid matrix, is therefore perfectly suitable for high-end luxury skin care, dermatocosmetics, products for damaged and sensitive skin. Mibelle Biochemistry Buchs, Switzerland Tel: 844-MIBELLE info@mibellebiochemistry.com www.mibellebiochemistry.com Alpine Rose Active INCI: Rhododendron ferrugineum extract (and) glycerin (and) aqua / water. Applications: Anti-aging formulas, photo-aging prevention, sun care products, protective skin care. Use level: 1–3%. Attributes: Alpine Rose Active is based on organic Swiss alpine rose leaves. It is the first cosmetic active to act as a so-called senolytic, meaning it specifically eliminates senescent cells. This reduces skin redness and increases elasticity for a rejuvenated skin. IceAwake INCI: Succinic acid (and) maltodextrin (and) aqua/water. Applications: Energizing serums for fatigued skin, Concentrates for glowing, revitalized skin, radiance enhancing face masks, anti-aging treatments. Use level: 1–2%. Attributes: IceAwake, made from the Swiss glacier bacterium Iodobacter ssp., supports the skin in coping with stress caused by lack of sleep. By energizing skin cells and inducing chaperone expression to aid correct protein folding, it visibly rejuvenates tired skin and increases skin radiance. PolyFructol Plus INCI: Inulin (and) glycerin (and) phenoxyethanol (and) lecithin (and) xanthan gum (and) aqua/water. Applications: Hydrating shower gels, moisturizing replenishing face care, barrier protection cream, body care. Use level: 0.1-5%. Attributes: PolyFructol Plus contains natural oligofructose from chicory in lecithin liposomes for 48 hour hydration and more. Already after only a single application in a shower product it hydrates the skin. Especially in compromised skin such as after excessive washing PolyFructol Plus showed also a protective as well as a repairing effect. Sabinsa Cosmetics East Windsor, NJ Tel: (732) 777-1111 Email: info@sabinsa.com www.sabinsacosmetics.com LactoSporin INCI: Bacillus ferment filtrate extract Applications: Anti-acne, anti-aging, antioxidant, anti-collegenase, anti-glycation, anti-inflammatory, and UV protection potential Use level: 0.5% w/w Attributes: LactoSporin is a novel extracellular protein metabolite partially purified from the supernatant of the probiotic, Bacillus coagulans MTCC 5856 (LactoSpore), offering remarkable biological activity for cosmeceuticals, while free of living cells. LactoSporin is supplied as a liquid and is water-soluble. Olepent INCI: Oleanoyl sh-Pentapeptide-4. Applications: Anti-aging, anti-inflammatory, anti-wrinkle. Use level: 0.01% to 0.1% w/w. Attributes: Olepent is a patented phyto-pentapeptide complex, produced by conjugating the pentapeptide sequence, Lys-Thr-Thr-Lys-Ser, and oleanolic acid, a natural triterpenoid extracted from olive leaves, offering hydrophobic and hydrophilic properties. Supplied as a water-soluble powder. Seiwa Kasei Co. Osaka, Japan | Tel: +81-72-987-2626 sales@seiwakasei.co.jp www.seiwakasei.jp/en/ Amitose DGA INCI: Bis-glyceryl ascorbate, glycerin, water. Applications: (VC-rich) serum, skin toner, cream, gel, lotion. Use levels: typical application 1-4%, vitamin C serum 10-50%. Attributes: Amitose DGA is the “most stable vitamin C derivative” produced by binding glycerin to vitamin C. Amitose DGA can be formulated in VC-rich serum easily because it is not much change color over time. Amitose 3GA INCI: 3-glyceryl ascorbate, glycerin, water. Applications: (VC-rich) serum, skin toner, cream, gel, lotion. Use levels: Typical application 1-6%, vitamin C serum 10-100%. Attributes: Amitose 3GA is the “easy-using vitamin C derivative.” It enables to apply various cosmetics because of reasonable price and high stability. In addition, it has multiple anti-aging effects : anti-wrinkle effect, suppression of inflammation, improvement of elasticity, etc. Amitose R INCI: Dihydroxypropyl arginine HCl, water. Applications: Skin toner, cleansing gel, washing foam, cream, skin / body lotion, shampoo, conditioner. Use levels: 1-3%. Attributes: Amitose R is the “versatile skin conditioning ingredient” produced by a chemical binding glycerin and arginine using our own original technology. It has microbiome improvement effect, long-lasting moisturizing effect, anti-wrinkle effect, sticky-less texturizing effect, etc. Shin-Etsu Silicones of America Akron, OH Tel: 800-544-1745 cosmetics@shinetsusilicones.com www.Shinetsusilicones.com X-22-6695B INCI: Jojoba oil (and) lauryl dimethicone/polyglycerin-3 crosspolymer. Use levels: 1.0-25%. Applications: Skin lotions and creams; anti-aging products; skin whitening products; sun care products; hand sanitizers. Attributes: X-22-6695B is a PEG-free, high shine, organic compatible, self-emulsifying elastomer gel swollen in jojoba oil. The product is derived from natural ingredients. X-22-6695B can be used alone as a sensory enhancer, a thickening agent for oils and emulsions, or as an emulsifier. KSG-43 INCI: Triethylhexanoin (and) vinyl dimethicone/lauryl dimethicone crosspolymer. Attributes: KSG-43 is a lauryl modified elastomer swollen in triethylhexanoin, which is a triglyceride derived from glycerin and fatty acid. The fatty acid is a high purity fat that differs slightly from natural fat. This unique carrier enhances the compatibility with natural products. The lauryl modification groups contained in the elastomer provides excellent compatibility with natural and organic formulation ingredients. It is an excellent emollient to condition the skin and hair. It is also an effective thickener for natural oils and w/o emulsions. KSG43 enhances the sensorial properties of cosmetic formulations including hair care, skin care, color cosmetics, and sunscreens. KSG-43 provides a silky, non-tacky, non-oily and cushiony skin feel. Unlike most elastomers that are mattifying, KSG-44 INCI: Squalane (and) vinyl dimethicone/lauryl dimethicone crosspolymer. Applications and Use levels: Skin care lotions and creams 2-10%; Anti-aging facial product 2-5%, Foundations 2-5%; Sunscreen 1-5%. Attributes: KSG-44 is a lauryl modified elastomer swollen in a plant derived squalane. It is an excellent moisturizer for skin care products. The lauryl modification group provides excellent compatibility with natural and organic formulation ingredients. It is an effective thickener for natural oils and w/o emulsions. The product enhances the sensorial properties of cosmetic formulations including hair care, skin care, color cosmetics, and sunscreens. KSG-44 provides a silky, non-tacky, non-oily and cushiony skin feel. Unlike most elastomers that are mattifying, KSG-44 provides a dewy and glowing appearance. Silab Tel: +33 (0)5 55 84 58 40 silab@silab.fr www.silab.fr Lactobiotyl INCI: Maltodextrin and lactobacillus ferment. Applications: all skin care products dedicated to dry skin. Use levels: 0.1-1%. Attributes: Lactobiotyl is a natural postbiotic active with radiance-boosting effect on dry skin, obtained by the bioguided fermentation of a plant probiotic Lactobacillus arizonensis, known for its acclimation to dry desert conditions. It improves the integrity of the skin barrier, activates epidermal renewal while preserving the equilibrium of the cutaneous microbiota.
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