It’s ironic that the foundation of the global beauty industry is, in absolute terms, quite thin. Consider that the stratum corneum (SC) consists of just 15-20 layers of corneocytes, embedded in a lipid matrix made up of cholesterol, ceramides and fatty acids. In recent years, interest in the skin microbiome—the microbrew of bacteria, fungi, viruses, yeasts, molds and perhaps, archebacteria that covers the SC— has captured the attention of many skin care formulators. Beauty industry expert and Happi columnist Paolo Giacomoni PhD, told Happi that, to his knowledge, the skin microbiome has never been measured.

“I surmise that it is much smaller than the stratum corneum; very roughly, one bacterium has a volume of about one hundredth of a cubic micron, whereas a keratinocyte/corneocyte has a volume of about 100 cubic microns,” explained Giacomoni, who is founder and CEO of Insight Analysis Consulting. “I also surmise that the vast majority of the microorganisms sit on the top of the stratum corneum and perhaps some sneak through and settle in the inter-corneocytary space. In some instances, microorganisms have been found in the dermis, but I would say this is a rare thing.”

The skin microbiome may not have been measured, but it is certainly capturing the fancy of formulators and raw material suppliers, and it will even be the topic of a conference program during Suppliers’ Day this month, sponsored by the New York Chapter of the Society of Cosmetic Chemists.

During the past three years, a range of startups have entered the skin microbiome market. Market leader Mother Dirt offers soaps, shampoos and AO+ Mist that it calls a live probiotic spray that restores clarity and balance to skin in four weeks. That’s because the mist contains ammonia-oxidizing bacteria to help maintain the skin’s ecosystem, according to Mother Dirt. Regular use of AO+ Mist is said to improve skin clarity, as well as dry and oily skin.

Another top mirobiome brand is Gallinée. Its newest formula is Face Vinegar which contains hibiscus vinegar and algae prebiotics to help make pores look smaller and skin brighter.

Of course, the skin microbiome isn’t the sole province of startups. At this year’s annual meeting of the American Academy of Dermatology, Johnson & Johnson presented two posters; one on how oat-containing lotion and wash improves skin microbiome diversity to reduce dry, itchy skin and another on how the effects of emollient use impacts the developing infant skin microbiome.

It is this growing interest in the microbiome, not to mention cannabidiol, that’s helping propel sales of skin care products in all channels. Prestige skin care sales reached $5.6 billion last year, according to The NPD Group. The biggest gains were posted by natural skin care brands, which accounted for $1.6 billion or more than one-quarter of annual sales, up 23% versus last year. The fastest-growing segments within facial skin care were lip treatments, toners/clarifyers, and all other face (which includes products like facial sprays and alphabet creams, among others).

In mass channels, sales approached $4 billion for the year ended Feb. 24, 2019, according to IRI, led, in part, by a 13.5% jump in facial moisturizer sales. But no matter the category, the big four in mass skin care remain, in no particular order, Johnson & Johnson, Procter & Gamble, L’Oréal and private label.

Of course, understanding the trends in skin care means more than reciting your CBDs. While the inactive ingredient in marijuana has made headlines as its way into dozens of creams, lotions and balms, during the past year, there have been plenty of other highs for this multibillion-dollar category.

You Gotta C This!
For example, in March, long-time beauty industry executives Ron Robinson, Jules Zecchino and Donna Barash launched Universal C Skin Refiner under Robinson’s BeautyStat banner. For years, formulators have known about vitamin C’s ability to reduce the appearance of scars and boost collagen production, but the material was infamous for its instability, too. Universal C Skin Refiner’s patented, encapsulated vitamin C formula contains 20% L-ascorbic acid, as well as epigallocatechin gallate (EGCG), squalane and tartaric acid that combine to increase collagen synthesis, soothe inflamed skin and brighten skin. Best of all, in stability tests, the formula has shown to be stable for more than five years thanks to its unique encapsulation delivery system.

“The technology isn’t totally unknown,” admitted Zecchino. “When vitamin C is put in an anhydrous system it is stable. But most anhydrous systems have poor aesthetics. We’ve created the best aesthetic formula in the industry. The texture is beautiful.”

So are the results, according to the executives. In a four-week clinical study, Universal C Skin Refiner had equal or better results than existing formulas over an eight-week study. Specifically, the formula was proven to significantly reduce the look of dark spots, discoloration, deep lines and wrinkles, while significantly firming and tightening skin. According to the company, over 90% of users reported reduced fine lines, younger-looking, firmer skin with improved texture; and 100% of users saw more even skin tone and smaller pores. With those kinds of results, BeautyStat is open to licensing its technology.

“Dermatologists consider vitamin C to be the gold standard,” explained Robinson. “We are looking to partner with dermatologists and even other brands.”

Universal C Skin Refiner retails for $80 and is available on the company’s website, www.beautystat.com

During its 10-year history, BeautyStat was always known as a social media channel for unbiased beauty product reviews and trend forecasts, noted company founder Robinson. But now, BeautyStat Cosmetics has a new goal of searching for new, effective beauty ingredients and technologies. Up next, for example, is a vitamin C-based moisturizer that raises the bar for other formulas in the category. But at the same time, vitamin C is just the start, insists the BeautyStat Cosmetics team. Plans are in the works to leverage the technology into other products and categories.

According to Zecchino, EGCG, has excellent ant-inflammatory effects, but like vitamin C, it too can be very unstable.

“It calms the skin and imparts great results,” said Zecchino.

But what about the ingredient of the moment? After all, a lot of companies are jumping on the CBD bandwagon.

Robinson told Happi that BeautyStat Cosmetics is looking at CBD for its next round of launches. In fact, the company has been consulting with dermatologist Jeanine Jacknin, who is widely-viewed as an expert on CBD-based skin care.

“We’ve seen data that it might provide anti-inflammatory benefits that might benefit acne and anti-aging skin,” said Robinson. “(But) Sourcing and QA of the material is critical; as is regulatory.”  

Dude! Where’s the CBD?
The overall CBD market is expected to grow more than 30% a year through 2025. The inactive ingredient in marijuana has made headlines as it finds its way into dozens of creams, lotions and balms. The Personal Care Product Council (PCPC) is so high on cannabis that it is a featured topic at this month’s Legal & Regulatory conference in San Antonio. Attorney Jonathan Havens with Saul Ewing Arnstein & Lehr LLP will moderate “Cannabis and Cosmetics: A match made in heaven or a recipe for disaster?”

Sure, it’s a catchy title, but any fears about the non-psychotic chemical hasn’t stopped a stream of marketers from launching their own cannabis-based formulas. In fact, sales of CBD skin care products is expected to reach $645 million this year, with a CAGR of more than 33% through 2027, according to a study by Future Market Insights.

In March, Aethera Beauty introduced a three-item skin care line features “soothing Cannabis Sativa for calm, glowing skin,” according to the company. It also contains antioxidant-rich hemp seed oil to nourish and smooth skin while highlighting an array of active, illuminating Caribbean botanicals such as hibiscus, acerola cherry and guava fruit extract. According to a company spokesperson, the Cannabis Sativa line will be followed by the launch of CBD versions of the range this summer and category extensions in the fall/winter 2019.

According to Elyse Koenig, a consulting firm involved in the launch, Cannabis Sativa (hemp seed oil) contains beneficial fatty acids including key omega-3 and omega-6 fatty acids which help hydrate and maintain skin barrier function. It also contains amino acids known to help the skin generate collagen and elastin.

“It’s anti-inflammatory properties soothe skin while helping to minimize uneven tone and texture, acne, and other imbalances and irritations,” she explained.

Furthermore, the material is rich in vitamins A, B, C, and E and contains high levels of gamma-linolenic acid known to help maintain hormone health.

Koenig explained that Aethera started with cannabis sativa because there are still people who are scared or confused by CBD.

“They may be nursing or pregnant or have personal reasons for not using CBD,” she told Happi. “It also allowed for a lower price point for people to start with the brand.”

The Chilyo Full Spectrum Hemp CBD skin care line contains several products including Total Eye and Lobe Serum, Facial Elixir, Muscle Balm and Face and Neck Créme. The mist formula promises to “revitalize, hydrate and calm” the face. In addition to CBD, it contains arnica and fruit extracts. A 1oz spray retails for $49.

Cannovia is betting the farm on CBD. The company offers an array of CBD products including peppermint oil, drink mix, muscle gel and lotion. A 500mg jar of lotion retails for $64.95. The company maintains it is “high strength” and 100% natural.

New CBD Living Lotion is said to contain 250mg of nano-CBD per 16 oz bottle and comes in three scents: Invigorating Eucalyptus, relaxing Lavender and Unscented. The vegan and cruelty-free formula is manufactured using only 100% organic US-grown hemp from state-licensed farms, according to the company. The formula is said to soothe dry, itchy skin. All formulas are said to contain a full spectrum of nano-CBD, including terpenes and flavonoids, and provide skin with the daily moisture it needs to stay soft and firm.

That sounds more like a standard skin care formula that reduces TEWL, rather than provide unique benefits. Some skin care industry veterans concur.

“The current crop of CBD marketers are building their business on anecdotal CBD medical benefits,” observed Happi columnist Navin Geria, a long-time cosmetic industry executive. “Solid scientific evidence is lacking for many of the claims that are currently in vogue.”

The science behind all of these launches may be lacking, but even multinationals brands are in on the CBD craze. Last month, Kiehl’s rolled out Cannabis Sativa Seed Oil Herbal Concentrate, a lightweight, calmative facial oil that is said to help to improve the appearance of skin prone to imperfections such as visible redness and discomfort. The non-acnegenic formula has 100% naturally-derived ingredients including cannabis sativa seed oil and green oregano oil, which help balance hydration and relieve the feeling of stressed skin. Kiehl’s considers ingredients to be naturally derived if they retain more than 50% of their molecular structure after being processed from a natural source.

Finally, for something a bit more, um, “therapeutic,” there’s CBDistillery’s transdermal Topical CBD Patch. Filled with 40mg of CBD, this 2×2-inch adhesive patch is said to be a convenient way to get the benefits of CBD with lasting effects up to 36 hours. Interestingly, CBDistillery notes that the “transdermal technology provides a higher bioavailability than traditional delivery methods allowing absorption through the skin and directly into the bloodstream.”

Hmm, bet your skin care formula can’t say that!

In an effort to clear things up a bit, later this month, the US Food and Drug Administration will hold a public hearing on consumer products derived from cannabis and its components, including CBD. Outgoing FDA Commissioner Scott Gottlieb noted that interest in these products increased last December when Congress passed the Agriculture Improvement Act of 2018 (the 2018 Farm Bill), which among other things, established a new category of cannabis classified as hemp that was removed from the Controlled Substances Act. At the same time, Congress explicitly preserved the FDA’s current authority to regulate products containing cannabis or cannabis-derived compounds under the Federal Food, Drug, and Cosmetic Act (FD&C Act) and section 351 of the Public Health Service Act.

“In doing so, Congress recognized the agency’s important public health role with respect to all the products it regulates. This allows the FDA to continue enforcing the law to protect patients and the public while also providing potential regulatory pathways, to the extent permitted by law, for products containing cannabis and cannabis-derived compounds,” Gottlieb said in a statement.

Stemming the Tide
CBD may be in the spotlight right now, but old standards like stem cells are still getting attention from formulators. The Stemology SRC-7 Skin Renewal System includes Cell Revive Serum, Cell Renew Hydro-Plus Overnight Moisturizer, Cell Revive Serum Complete with SRC-7 and new Moisture Complete with SRC-7. According to company founder and chief technical officer Hal H. Simeroth, PhD, past approaches for applying stem cell technology to skin aging used a process which included human donors, stem cell cultures, and harvesting of the peptides secreted by these cultures in a media that could be incorporated in a skin care serum. Simeroth told Happi that the latest research work in the contributions of stem cells resident in skin tissues indicates a multi-faceted contribution in the process of skin repair and renewal.

“Scientific study has now identified three stem cell types each of which contributes to skin regeneration in its special way…epidermal stem cells, dermal or follicular stem cells, and hypodermal stem cells,” he explained.

Epidermal stem cells (ESC) reside at the basal layer of the epidermis. This stem cell type is differentiated to the point of producing only new cells specific to the epidermis. These ESC’s continually differentiate into daughter cells (also called TA cells), new epidermal stem cells, and, of course, new epidermal skin cells of various types. These cells provide the new epidermal growth needed for the day to day replacement of the stratum corneum. Dermal stem cells, found in the bulb of the hair follicle exhibit the important expected behavior of self-renewal, while some also migrate into the inter-follicular dermis where they proliferate and differentiate into fibroblast cells. These fibroblast cells provide regeneration for the extracellular matrix (ECM) by producing new collagen and elastin, which is constantly being required to maintain skin elasticity, firmness, and a strong supporting structure. Recent discovery has found a vast number of mesenchymal stem cells in the hypodermis which lies below the dermal layer of the skin. Research in the past few years has discovered that literally millions of mesenchymal stem cells reside in the hypodermis, which is mostly a fat layer that resides just under the skin’s dermal layer. These stem cells quickly react to trauma to the skin in order to orchestrate healing.

“So with all we now know it is clear that we have plenty of stem cell help available for repair and rejuvenation within our own skin,” said Simeroth. “The problem is, as we age, the declining regenerative potential of these stem cells contributes to thinning skin and loss of collagen and thus, firmness and elasticity. This declining potential happens primarily due to stem cells and fibroblasts in our skin becoming senescent; they greatly slow down in their production of new stem cells and tissue specific cells. All three stem cell types experience this age decline.”

To reduce cellular senescent, Stemology has developed SRC-7, a patent-pending formula that Simeroth maintains provides a unique solution to stimulating all of the various stem cell types pertaining to the skin resulting in increased epidermal cell production, increased collagen/elastin production and increased stem cell replication.

“SRC-7 is a unique combination of tested ingredients that addresses this senescence issue in all three stem cell types, causing greater stem cell proliferation, which leads to a more youthful renewal of epidermal skin, and collagen and elastin, thus thicker, more youthful appearing skin and firmer, fuller appearance with less sag and wrinkling,” Simeroth explained. “Because we have also seen evidence of improved wound healing with SRC-7, we are now in tests to add the wound healing claim to the SRC-7 patent.”

As the Derms Turn
Dermatologists see plenty of skin disorders. At the American Academy of Dermatology’s Annual Meeting earlier this year, which attracted nearly 10,000 attendees, all of the major skin care companies—Johnson & Johnson, L’Oréal, Procter & Gamble—and dozens more exhibited their newest products and educated doctors on the importance of proper skin care that doesn’t need a prescription.

For example, Neostrata used the meeting to relaunch after company officials noted that the 30-year-old brand need a facelift. Neostrata’s Enlighten Brightening Eye Cream, is billed as “the ideal companion to your in-office procedures.” The formula contains 5% polyhydroxy acid and gluconolactone and lactobionic acid, as well as algae polysaccharide complex and peptides. In a 12-week study involving 33 subjects ages 30-55, there was a 43% improvement in puffiness and a 27% improvement in dark circles. Subjects self-assessment was even better: 85% reported diminished dark circles, 94% reported reduced undereye puffiness. 91% said the eye area looks rested and 88% said the eye area appears brighter and more luminous.

Obagi’s new Microdermabrasion Polish + Mask promises to exfoliate and prime skin for an enhanced infusion of 30% vitamin C. After one application, 88% of participants reported a more luminous skin glow, 84% reported improved feel of skin texture and 80% reported smoother, brighter skin. After three weeks of use, 96% said their skin was smoother and brighter and 87% reported a softening appearance of fine lines and wrinkles.

Of course, dermatologists like to see their names in lights, or at least on a jar of skin cream. No wonder then, that contract manufacturer Topix Pharmaceuticals invited a couple of dermatologists to speak about the benefits of dispensing their own private label collections. For example, Marguerite Germain, MD, insisted that she gets better patient compliance when they make in-office purchases.

“I prefer custom-blended formulas,” she explained. “We don’t want them sitting at home ordering off the internet.”

The Charleston, SC-based derm said she started working with Topix four years ago and now has $1.6 million in skin care product sales.

For those interested in attending or exhibiting at the AAD Summer Meeting in New York City, July 25-28, registration opens this month.

For Guys Only
American Crew founder David Raccuglia understands that most men won’t be caught dead in a traditional hair salon…let alone a dermatologist’s office. For those beauty-averse male, a quarter-century ago Raccuglia launched a simple, straightforward hair care collection.

As he explained to David Alexander of Liveabout.com, “When a man walks by a salon and looks in the window, he’s really only looking for one thing—to see if another man is in there.”

Raccuglia clearly gets it. Now he’s back with a skin care regimen that mirrors exactly what men want—a simple, effective line that addresses what guys care about when it comes to skin care: products that make their skin look less tired and more refreshed and energized. Products in the new American Crew Acumen range include Clay Exfoliating Cleanser, Daily Energizing Hydrating Gel, In-Shower Face Wash and Eye Energizing Hydrating Gel. Overall, the Acumen lineup includes 15 products with prices ranging from $19 to 40.

For Raccuglia, the time is right for a skin care range, as more men view skin care as just another way of staying healthy. Acumen formulas include a proprietary blend of vitamins B5 and E, antioxidants, hyaluronic acid, ginger root extract, bisabolol and cranberry extract.

“After 25 years of pioneering the men’s hair care category, it was time to adapt those principles to the men’s skin care category,” he told Happi.

The skin care market has always been the biggest category within the global beauty industry, posting gains of 6% or so for years. Now, just imagine the gains if men truly start looking beyond soap and water in their daily grooming routines! 



New Ingredients for Skin Care

Here is list of new ingredients for skin care products introduced by raw material suppleirs during the past 12 months. For information on any of these materials, contact the supplier directly using the information provided.