Lighten Up

There’s nothing like spritzing on a fresh new scent to usher in the warm, sunny days of springtime. As heavy knits are traded in for cotton blends and short sleeves replace bulky jackets, consumers are also swapping out their fragrances for lighter, sparkling variations. And for Spring 2011, there is a dazzling assortment of new juices to complement the flirty looks seen on the fashion runways. Marketers are ready for fragrance’s return to the beauty forefront, finally.
Prestige fragrance sales rose 1% to $2.5 billion in 2010, marking its first gain since 2006, according to The NPD Group, a market research firm based in Port Washington, NY. The number of fragrance launches rose 3%, driven by men’s fragrance rollouts.

“In 2010, prestige beauty saw a late-year rally in fragrance,” said Karen Grant, vice president and senior global industry analyst, The NPD Group. “Individually and collectively, as an industry, we saw adroitly and strategically deployed initiatives in product, placement and pricing that worked to re-engage consumers in prestige, both in stores and online. It is the type of multi-pronged and multi-faceted action that will be key to driving the prestige beauty market in 2011.”

While factors influencing fragrance purchase for women, such as price, celebrity endorsement or season may be well-known, latest research from Mintel reveals that the biggest influence may not be a fixed factor. It seems mood is now the most popular motivator of fragrance choice for women, as more than half (54%) of female fragrance users decide what fragrance to use based on how they’re feeling.

Coming in at second place, 31% of fragrance users say they decide which fragrance to apply based on their activity (work function vs. a personal outing). Meanwhile, 26% of users decide based on the time of day and 25% decide based on what they’re wearing.

“Women in the 18-44 age range are more prone to change their fragrance based on a number of different factors, while over 45s are more brand-loyal,” said Kat Fay, senior beauty analyst at Mintel. “This may be a result of these younger women juggling multiple activities and responsibilities with a busy work schedule. While they may deem a certain scent appropriate for the office, they might choose a more flirty scent for social functions.”

Bronze Goddess Soleil is a limited edition launch from Estée Lauder this season.

Let The Sun Shine In
A majority of new releases this season channel the wonders of the outdoors—think festive florals and fresh fruit blends.

Jennifer Aniston, the self-titled fragrance, is one of the hottest celebrity rollouts.

“Spring is always an optimistic moment, even though the fears and uncertainty from the recession still linger for many consumers,” said Rochelle Bloom, president, The Fragrance Foundation, New York. “This the time of year when we start looking at our wardrobes and thinking sandals instead of boots and pink lipgloss instead of red lipstick. We are happy to put away those big winter coats. It’s the same feeling when we want to make a transition from our favorite winter fragrances that made us feel warm, cozy and comfortable to lighter, more effervescent playful variations.”

Bloom predicts new interpretations of classic, single florals like rose, iris and violet will be big this season.

“These florals will be freshened and given a new, less sweet interpretation with the addition of bright, grassy, green notes,” she explained. “What can lift the spirits better than a lovely spray or splash of fragrance that sparkles and vibrates with complex notes that capture the feeling of

What’s New at the 2011 FiFi Awards? Considered the “Oscars” of the fragrance industry, The FiFi Awards, presented by The Fragrance Foundation, is an elegant, red-carpet celebration where more than 800 industry leaders gather along with celebrity presenters from stage, screen and music to find out who has won a coveted crystal FiFi award out of a possible 30 categories for the very best in men’s and women’s fragrances. There is a lot to look forward to for this year’s FiFi Awards, scheduled for May 25 in New York City.Here’s what you need to know, what’s new and what’s next for FiFis 2011… New Venue: This year’s FiFi Awards will take place Under the Tent at Damrosch Park, Lincoln Center. New Category: “Fragrance Superstar of the Year” is a brand-new award category for best fragrance of the year with no restrictions as to male or female or distribution channel, according to the foundation. Guests that attended The FiFi Finalists Breakfast at the Mandarin Oriental Hotel on April 8 had the opportunity to vote for the final five there, and then from a listing of the top 10 fragrances in each category. Then, the awards attendees themselves will have the ability to vote, on the spot, for the first-ever “Fragrance Superstar of the Year” out of the top five fragrances (tabulated by the Foundation’s accounting firm) showcased during the evening. The winning fragrance will be announced immediately and be presented on stage with a coveted crystal FiFi. New Award: For the first time, fragrance-loving consumers will be able to cast their vote on a stand-alone basis for their most favorite fragrance without being combined with any other voting tabulations for the “Consumer’s Choice Award.” The voting will take place via the social networks, media sites, osMoz.com, iPerfumer, etc. More info: www.fragrance.org

Spring in a bottle?”
Virginia Lee, senior research analyst, Euromonitor International, Chicago, agrees that botanical inspirations are a major trend right now.

UNLTD is the newest men’s fragrance from designer Marc Ecko.

“Fruity florals are expected to do well in Spring and Summer 2011, as they offer a burst of energy along with the comfort of food notes,” she told Happi. “Shoppers want to feel good about themselves and fruity florals offer an optimistic experience.”

Some notable fruity floral launches for Spring 2011 include Marc Jacobs Daisy Eau So Fresh, DKNY Be Delicious Juiced and David Yurman Fresh Essence, added Lee. They join a variety of other light and bright juices popping up in stores.

CK One is back with another limited edition seasonal version, CK One Summer. According to Coty, the unisex eau de toilette “captures the spirit and mood of a fun-filled summer dance party at the beach.” It opens with a burst of fresh crisp melon and dewy water fern. An invigorating blend of green citrus notes features tangerine leaves, lemon and the unique zesty herbaceous effect of verbena. Rhubarb adds a cool, edgy freshness which, rounded out with soft yellow freesia, creates a refreshing heart. Exotic incense and earthy oakmoss are wrapped in the warmth of cedarwood, musk and peach. As for the packaging, eye-catching shades of blue, yellow and red highlight a vibrant design.

Estée Lauder is also rolling out a limited edition fragrance of its own by bulking up its Bronze Goddess line with Bronze Goddess Soleil. According to the company, where Bronze Goddess features an amber-enhanced floral bouquet, Bronze Goddess Soleil blends sparkling citrus essences with fresh florals. Bronze Goddess Soleil’s opening reveals Sicilian citron, Calabrese bergamot and a sweet tangerine blended with Provençal lavender flowers and lemon tree petitgrain. A cascade of solar flowers follows: Mediterranean pittosporum, neroli tunisia, Moroccan orange blossom, Indian sambac, grapefruit tree blossoms and pink lily nectar. Finally, the background of the fragrance warms with enveloping blonde woods, iris notes, ambrette seed and crystalline musks.

Even the packaging reflects the movement from sand to sun, with a new color gradiation on the bottle silhouette and a cap with matte golden rings.

Philosophy’s newest fragrance in its Grace Collection, Summer Grace, was created to refresh the spirit and warm the heart, according to the company. Like a bottle of sunshine, this bright floral merges sparkling, sun-kissed citrus notes. Star fruit and peach introduce a bouquet of passionflower, wild peony, rose and dewy greens; while sandalwood, coconut musk and vanilla follow.

The Scent of Courage Susan G. Komen for the Cure has partnered with TPR Holdings to launch Promise Me, the first and only proprietary fragrance to benefit breast cancer research, according to the company. “The fragrance will give supporters a new way to participate in the breast cancer cause and is very important to our global reach,” said Komen for the Cure founder and chief executive officer Nancy G. Brinker. “Promise Me offers a natural fit. My sister Susan was always passionate about fragrance. She had a great fashion sense.” Developed by Drom perfumer Jean Claude Delville, Promise Me is a sophisticated floriental. It opens with a fresh burst of mandarin, bergamot and blood orange. Its feminine heart evokes softness and beauty with pink peony, wild orchid and rosewood. The scent lingers on white patchouli and musk for a warm, sensual finish. Designed by Chad Lavigne and housed in an elegant glass vessel with interior floral motif, Promise Me is an ideal gift from the heart. Brian Robinson, founder of Zirh Men’s Skincare and president of TPR Holdings, is proud to join forces with Susan G. Komen for the Cure. “With 15 years in the beauty industry, I wanted to lend my expertise to this profound cause,” said Robinson. “With the launch of Promise Me, we’re one step closer to finding a cure.” Each Promise Me fragrance includes an insert with Komen’s educational messages and the contribution each purchase makes to the organization, as well as a limited edition scented bracelet. In 2011, TPR Holdings has committed to donate a minimum of $1 million to Komen for research, education, screening and treatment. The fragrances, in an EDT and EDP form, hits stores nationally in May. More info: www.promisemefragrance.com

Bath & Body Works (B&BW) aims to transport consumers to rolling hills and lush landscapes with Country Chic, a new addition to its Signature Collection line. Billed as an “effortlessly sexy blend of sparkling lemon, bright wildflowers and spring woods, inspired by the fresh air of the country,” the fragrance targets either the outdoorsy girl or the bohemian.

Another big B&BW release is Carried Away, a whimsical blend of raspberries, white jasmine and whipped vanilla, also part of the Signature Collection, created by the master perfumers at Givaudan. According to the company, the Signature Collection offers the consumer the ability to customize her fragrance experience, letting her choose different forms of the product to achieve the desired level of fragrance. For example, if she wants to make a statement with Carried Away, start with the shower gel, apply the body lotion and finish with a splash of fragrance mist.To “dial up” the fragrance, try the creamy body wash and then apply the body butter to dry skin and finish with a spritz of EDT, according to the company.

Bulgari's newest scent, Mon Jasmin Noir, also debuts this month. It is billed as a lighter version of 2008’s Jasmin Noir. Distribution could reach 20,000 doors in the first year. Industry sources estimate the scent could generate in excess of $40 million in first-year wholesale sales. Composed by noses Olivier Polge and Sophie Labbè from International Flavors & Fragrances Inc., Mon Jasmin Noir is described as a luminous floral which opens with zingy citrus and lily of the valley notes. Its heart is composed of a variation of jasmine flowers, while a woody drydown includes cedar and patchouli—a popular component for the season.

“We are beginning to see a lot of fragrances that have white patchouli as a key note,” noted Alaina Bavelas, beauty and fragrance specialist at The Plaza Beauty in New York. “It’s a modern twist to the once popular patchouli.”

Top Notes for 2011 Specifically from a fragrance perspective and uncovering the notes that will captivate the global economy, Bell’s worldwide marketing teams have been working on this discovery process by exploring global markets for next generation notes. These notes have been defined by product launches, industry regulations, world events and unique new preference for the indulgent consumer. These “Top 10 Notes” will influence the fragrance development of products designed for 2011 and will continue to drive discovery for years to come: 1. Jasmine Sambac 2. White Patchouli 3. Rich Balsamic 4. English Toffee 5. Caviar Luxe 6. Lime Cilantro Spice 7. Fir Needles 8. Brazilian Nut 9. Guaiacwood 10. Brisk Blue Algae More info: www.bellff.com

Himilayan mogra will also be a hit for spring, added Bavelas. One of her store’s newest fragrances, Azagury by Jacques Azagury, has this ingredient as its base note.

“The combination of this ingredient with the woodsy scent of sandalwood is truly amazing,” Bavelas told Happi. “It is similar to the scent of jasmine, but a little softer, making it the perfect fragrance for the warmer, spring months.”

Monica Carlson, vice president of fragrances at Sephora, San Francisco, CA, concurs that for Spring 2011, florals are the top trend.

“In honor of the newly blossomed trees and gardens, this Spring we are seeing a lot of floral fragrances—it’s all about being sweet and fresh smelling! Floral fragrances are inherently feminine and elegant with blends of mixed bouquets of jasmine, rose, white peony, gardenia and tuberose.For an added element, these fragrances can be either pure and flowery, or subtly warmed with a touch of spice or fruit for a soft powdery finish.”


Work the Runway
Besides lighter, brighter juices, scent shoppers are still seeking out their favorite designer fragrances for Spring 2011.

“It's part of owning a piece of the designer without spending thousands of dollars on a dress or even a handbag,” noted Lily Garfield, president/owner of beauty boutique Cos Bar, Aspen, CO. “A designer fragrance has a cache when someone says ‘you smell lovely, what are you wearing?’”

Consider Very Irrésistible Givenchy L’Intense, which launched globally last month. One of the bigger rollouts of the season, industry sources estimate that sales within the Very Irrésistible franchise could top $100 million next year, with L’Intense accounting for $26 million. Actress and Givenchy veteran Liv Tyler is the spokesmodel for the fragrance. The musky floral chypre scent, by International Flavors & Fragrances, opens with purple plum, followed by Turkish rose, white musks and patchouli. The bottle, in gradated shades of plum, features a silver abstract rose motif, and the juice itself is tinted pink.

Oscar de la Renta is getting back into the fine fragrance industry just in time for Mother’s Day. More than a year after obtaining his fragrance license from YSL Beauté, the renowned designer and Alex Bolen, chief executive officer of his fashion house, will re-enter the business with the introduction of an updated eau de parfum version of the brand, complete with a contemporary interpretation of the 1977 perfume bottle. The line extension is called Esprit d’Oscar Eau de Parfum. Then, once the new EDP has broken the ice, the house plans on launching an entirely new fragrance under the Oscar umbrella in September.

After a warm-up in Europe, Maison Martin Margiela is ready to take on the U.S. women’s fragrance market with the house’s first scent. Launching this month, the juice’s name is Untitled. It is described as a woody green floral. Concocted by Givaudan’s Daniela Andrier, Untitled has top notes of galbanum essence and orange blossom absolute; a heart of lentiscus, jasmine and galbanum resinoid and a drydown of incense and musk. The scent will launch first in Saks Fifth Avenue and is estimated to pull in around $3 million at retail in the U.S. in its first year on counter, according to reports.

At Estée Lauder, Coach introduces its new Signature summer limited edition to the Coach Fragrance collection—a sheer, seasonal version of Coach’s classic Signature Fragrance. Designed to be pretty, chic and playful, the Signature Summer Fragrance is a warm-weather blend of soft fruits and florals with fresh herbal notes and luxurious hints of musk and exotic woods, according to the company.

Meanwhile, at Inter Parfums, Banana Republic introduces Wildbloom, an eau de parfum that captures the beauty of joy, optimism and spontaneity, according to the company. Developed by Jean-Claude Delville of Drom, the floral fruity chypre scent reflects an easy elegance with a confident wink, said the company. Delville composed the floral heart around wild camellia, an ingredient he calls “a rare flower in perfumery—rich, fresh, delicate, attractive, seductive and different.” On the packaging, Wildbloom features an oversized brushed leather flower bloom on the front of the bottle, underscoring how the wearer accessorizes with the scent, said Banana Republic.

A bestselling fashion item can inspire a spin-off fragrance. Consider Incredible by Victoria’s Secret. Inspired by the runaway success of its undergarment of the same name—beloved by women everywhere, adored by the press and one of the biggest launches in Victoria’s Secret history—the company set out to create a fragrance that would make a woman feel her absolute Incredible best. The result is a voluptuous floral-fruity blend of magnolia, pear and sandalwood. The scent is packaged in a sleek, curvaceous bottle as well.

Finally, for those who can’t shell out $1,500-$5,000 for a bejeweled Judith Leiber evening bag, the good news is, they can purchase her fragrance for a lot less! Judith Leiber Night is a glamorous new fragrance for the ultimate evening out, according to its marketer, Palm Beach Beaute. Opulent and rich, this exotic oriental amber scent is presented in a black-as-night opaque glass flacon embedded with sparkling Swarovski crystal stones.


And for the Guys…
In the early 1990s, Marc Ecko launched a clothing line with six T-shirt designs and a can of spray paint. Fast-forward 15 years, and Marc Ecko Enterprises includes a dozen lines of clothing and accessories as well as a fragrance following. This season, Parlux is launching Ecko’s second fragrance for men, UNLTD. Described as “an unconventional mix,” the aromatic tonic is enhanced with the freshness of ripe fruit. Water mint and dewy melon add a cooling counterpoint to the luscious essence of fresh fig and the crisp scent of Italian lemons. The tonic effect of rosemary and spike lavender is tempered by the spicy floral-citrus scent of neroli and the warm essence of suede. Cashmere woods transition the fragrance at the base as aromatic notes of cedar wood, moss and musk leave a dynamic impression. Plus, the eau de toilette makes a statement with an “unconventional” canister capped in translucent bright green.

Smell Like Money Introducing the fragrances of success, Money Cologne and Money Eau de Parfum. Each fragrance actually has an air of freshly minted money and is packed tightly inside a box containing real shredded American currency. Creator Patrick McCarthy was inspired by a Japanese study that showed a significant increase in worker productivity when the smell of money was pumped through vents into factories. In making Money, McCarthy decided to apply the same principles in hopes that the scent would motivate American workers facing tough economic times. His Money Cologne opens with the woody aroma of newly printed money. A bold fusion of fresh ocean breezes and bright citrus notes are joined by rosemary, grass and precious woods. Her Money Eau de Parfum begins with the clean scent of freshly minted bills. Vibrant pink grapefruit and mandarin give it a citrus kick that’s enhanced by freesia, passion fruit, Hawaiian wedding flower and a soft hint of melon. Money is distributed by Romane Fragrances and available in retail stores nationwide. More info: www.liquidmoney.com

Meanwhile, at Coty, Eternity is rolling out a seasonal men’s limited edition fragrance, aptly named Eternity for Men Summer. Billed as “fresh, crisp and serene,” it opens with a burst of ocean air accord and invigorates with a blend of citrus mint coriander. Within the heart lies the crispness of anise star, easing into the warmth of cedarwood and patchouli. The Eternity for Men Summer signature flacon and outer packaging both have been re-imagined with a color scheme that emulates the rays of the summer sun. The botanical graphic in shades of green captures the memories of a warm, breezy summer day, according to the company.

Moschino Forever is out to build the fashion brand’s male audience. According to reports, the masculine fragrance from Italy-based Euroitalia follows in the footsteps of the label’s other male scents, Moschino Friends and Moschino Uomo. The scent was composed by Nathalie Lorson of Firmenich. Described as an aromatic fougère, it includes notes of kumquat, bergamot and star anise blended with a heart of clary sage, tonka bean and black pepper. It dries down into notes of vetiver, musk and sandalwood.

Another lauded launch comes from P&G Prestige. After the success of Gucci Guilty, a women’s scent that topped the sales charts last fall, the fashion house’s fragrance licensee plans to debut a men’s version. The new fragrance rolled out in Europe recently and is set to hit the U.S. soon.


Famous Faces (And Fragrances)
For every designer juice, there’s a celebrity scent equally as coveted. Star power is fueling the fragrance marketplace, from mass to prestige outposts, and there are no signs of its allure slowing down yet.

“While it seems that every celebrity in the universe now claims a fragrance, the fact of the matter is that celebrity fragrances have brought a new excitement and interest to the category,” commented Bloom of The Fragrance Foundation. “Celebrity
fragrances give the consumer a chance to share their particular ‘pop’ lifestyle so if you like their music, chances are you will try the fragrance.”

For example, Parlux launched Reb’l Fleur, the first fragrance from Rihanna, the chart-topping singer known for her glamorous, fashion-forward style. Created by perfumers Caroline Sabas and Marypierre Julien of Givaudan, this fruity chypre is joyous yet intense, sophisticated yet surprising, according to the company. Berries, plums and peaches make a delicious first impression. Then the heart opens into sumptuous florals, a blend of Hawaiian hibiscus flower, violet, tuberose and coconut water. The base notes linger with vanilla, patchouli, amber and musk. The bottle is inspired by a stiletto heel—a favorite shoe option for the performer. Made feminine with a twisting matte black “ribbon” layered over precious metal, the fragrance appears to glow from within, and is suffused with a glorious golden aura, according to the company.

Who Tops The List? Top five best selling total prestige fragrance brands of 2010: 1. Coco Mademoiselle 2. Acqua Di Gio Pour Homme 3. Beautiful 4. Light Blue 5. Chanel No 5 Source: The NPD Group

“This will be a fragrance that is timeless in its sensuality but youthful in its upbeat contemporary appeal,” commented Fred Purches, chairman and chief executive officer of Parlux.

Another anticipated celebrity debut this season was from Hollywood’s golden girl Jennifer Aniston. With a U.S. launch exclusively at Sephora, the fragrance, simply titled Jennifer Aniston, was adjusted and refined for over a year by the actress herself in partnership with IFF. The debut fragrance exhibits top notes of citrus grove and rose water, middle notes of blooming jasmine paired with wild violets and Amazon lily; and finally, dry down notes of musk, golden amber and sandalwood. Aniston cites the distinct smell of wood fires at friends’ houses on summer evenings as an inspiration for the woody base notes.

“Jennifer showed clear vision for the fragrance from the outset. Her references evoke her love of the natural world and the fragrance celebrates her as an intelligent, natural beauty whose strength and elegance are unparalleled. It was a pleasure to work with her on this beautiful fragrance,” said Leon Falic, president, Falic Fashion Group, the marketer of the fragrance that also created a perfume for another famous face, Eva Longoria.

Coty bulked up its Halle Berry fragrance collection this season with Reveal by Halle Berry. Joining Halle by Halle Berry and Pure Orchid by Halle Berry, Reveal is a memorable fragrance that captures the spirit of classic glamour with a modern twist, according to the company. Created in partnership with Firmenich, this floral woody composition opens with a sparkling burst of naturally fresh, fruity top notes. Berry’s favorite flower, the delicate and luminous mimosa, blends with undertones of peach, honeydew melon and red berries.At its elegant heart, a soft and light floral bouquet of plumeria flower, iris blossom and neroli petals blooms on the skin. The fragrance then settles on a base of vetiver, cashmere woods and skin musk.

The Reveal bottle design is a vintage-style bottle with a contemporary twist. Taking inspiration from the art deco era and Berry’s own memories of a beloved object d’art, the flacon is curvaceously shaped like a four-sided teardrop, with ridges that make it tactile. The heavy glass is transparent to let the light golden juice inside shine through, and is topped with a jewel-like cut cap. Equally as chic and refined, the fragrance box is embossed with ridges that echo the bottle shape, and is colored a sheer, yet warm gold.

“Halle Berry is one of Hollywood’s greatest treasures but despite her public persona, she remains an enigma. Reveal is about the mystery behind the woman; that indescribable quality that captivates and intrigues us,” said Steve Mormoris, senior vice president, global marketing, Coty Beauty.

Another line expansion is by way of Beyoncé. Following on the heels of her record-breaking first fragrance, Beyoncé Heat, the global superstar introduces Beyoncé Heat Rush, the resplendent new scent that captures her shining personality and passion for life, all wrapped in a soft seduction, according to Coty. The fragrance features sparkling top notes of passion fruit, blood orange and Brazilian cherry. The heart of the fragrance embodies Beyoncé’s ultra-feminine side—a delicate floral
bouquet is built upon a carefully blended combination of yellow tiger orchid, mango blossom and orange hibiscus. The base engages with hints of teak wood, honey amber and a musk accord that is inspired by the sunsets in Brazil.

Beyoncé Heat Rush is presented in a sophisticated and dazzling bright orange flacon. The shapely, feminine base narrows to an elegant gold top with “Heat” emblazoned on its center. The fragrance itself is a golden hue that mimics the brilliant color of the sun. This theme is continued throughout the outer packaging accompanied by warm-toned accents.

And, for the jet-setting fragrance fanatic, there’s Paris Hilton’s latest launch with Parlux, Passport. This new trio of scents, inspired by P-Hil’s luxe lifestyle, features a different anime-inspired image of Paris and has its own identity, reflecting the pulse of the city that is the fragrance’s inspiration: Paris, South Beach and Tokyo.


A Fragrant Future
So, what’s next in the fine fragrance marketplace for later this year and beyond? According to industry insiders, everything from exotic scent combinations to marketing apps will be paramount to move that new EDP or EDT.

“In the past six months, consumers have become more comfortable in their spending, which has been favorable to the fragrance sector of the beauty industry,” said Bavelas of Plaza Beauty.

“Brands have been taking advantage of the recent increase in fragrance sales, and are introducing new melds for the 2011 market. Perfume enthusiasts are reemerging from their economical vanity trays, and are looking for new and exciting blends,”she added.

Bavelas noted gourmand blends, such as an avant garde take on vanilla and a darker version of amber, are a rising trend; as are bright citrus fusions of lime or kumquat, which are unique and often overlooked.

Lee at Euromonitor thinks less is more, as smaller packaging such as rollerballs and 1oz sizes will continue to be popular with consumers because they offer portability for the on-the-go woman and cost less than a standard bottle.

And, for those who are constantly connected via iPads, iPhones and other new technology, “the social network” is the biggest trend in fragrance right now—proving that marketing is almost as equally important as the product itself, according to Bloom of The Fragrance Foundation.

“Obviously the social network has become a way of life, and this includes shopping,” she told Happi. “Apps letting you shop from your computer, phone or television are taking over, so how do we all adjust to this and continue to make ‘brick and mortar’ viable and still keep up with the new trends?If we can truly unlock this potential, there will be no stopping us!”