The skin is the body’s first line of defense, ensured by the barrier function role of the stratum corneum. When this barrier function is altered, the skin progressively loses its defense capabilities, making it vulnerable to dehydration and redness, but also to premature and visible signs of skin aging. In particular, this is the case for dry skin or skin irritated by the use of certain molecules such as retinol.

Consumers are aware of this essential role of the skin and so are increasingly selecting care products combining protection and comfort. Restructuring active ingredients are therefore strategic solutions.

SILAB thus developed a restructuring natural active ingredient that targets the lipid disorders of dry skin: NEOLIPYL^®.

Lipids, key player in skin protection

The relationship between modification of the barrier function and the perturbation of lipids is nowadays commonly admitted. From a functional standpoint, the stratum corneum is composed of stacked corneocytes embedded in a lipid matrix in a brick-and-mortar system. This naturally hydrophobic shield prevents water losses from the skin and its efficacy depends on its composition (ceramides, cholesterol and free fatty acids) and on its structure (conformation and organization).

It is therefore recognized that these two parameters are to be taken into account in order to maintain the role of the stratum corneum. Even so, currently available scientific data provide only a partial vision of the extent of modifications of the lipid matrix when the barrier function is altered.

SILAB decided to use its dual expertise in omics technologies (lipidomic study) and optical biopsies and developed an unprecedented modeling study to establish the lipid signature of dry skin: the results demonstrate weakened composition and structure of the lipid matrix. Tested on this model, NEOLIPYL^® re-equilibrates this lipid matrix: epidermal lipids synthesis is restored, and their conformation and organization are optimized.

A global repairing action

By targeting lipid disorders of dry skin, NEOLIPYL^® restores skin barrier integrity. These effects translate into rapid benefits observed on Caucasian and Asian dry skin as early as 14 days of twice-daily application: microrelief is smoothed, and skin hydration and comfort are improved. Comparative studies have demonstrated a niacinamide-like efficacy.

In addition, NEOLIPYL^® proves to be an asset when using retinol on normal skin. When formulated in combination with this reference molecule, the active ingredient limits its adverse effects (dryness, discomfort, redness, etc.), without altering its anti-wrinkle efficacy. NEOLIPYL^® also significantly improves the positive effect of retinol on complexion radiance.

A certified organic raw material

NEOLIPYL^® was developed using flowering tops of cornflower, a raw material obtained from French suppliers certified for organic agriculture. The proline-rich peptide fraction was extracted with a natural process of enzyme engineering,

A genuine lipid restructuring agent and natural partner of retinol, NEOLIPYL^® is a patented active ingredient recommended in all cares intended for the skin barrier.