Debunking common (formulation) myths about Natural* Betaine: What you need to know

Released By IFF

In the world of personal care and cosmetics, ingredients are often misunderstood, leading to widespread myths and misconceptions. Natural Betaine, a versatile and beneficial compound, is no exception. In this article, we will debunk some of the most common myths surrounding Natural Betaine, providing you with the information you need to fully appreciate its unique properties and benefits.

Myth 1: Betaine is the same as Cocamidopropyl Betaine.

Reality: While both contain the word “betaine,” they are different compounds. Cocamidopropyl Betaine is a surfactant used in cleansing products, whereas natural betaine is used for its moisturizing and protective properties. In fact, betaine is a unique type of moisturizing ingredient called an osmolyte.

Osmolytes are naturally occurring low-molecular-weight organic compounds found in various organisms. They help cells maintain osmotic balance and protect against environmental stress. For example, betaine helps maintain cell volume and protect cellular structures by stabilizing proteins and counteracting the effects of denaturants. Betaine, specifically, is known for its dipolar zwitterion characteristics and high solubility in water, making it effective in protecting cells under high osmotic stress.

In an in-vitro test, 3% of GENENCARE® OSMS BA was shown to help keratinocytes manage water balance, limit their decrease in number and size, and increase cell viability under hyperosmotic stress. Keratinocytes, located in the upper layers of the skin, are particularly important because they are the cells most affected by hydric stress when the skin is dry. In contrast, fibroblasts, which reside in the lower dermis, are less subject to hydric stress due to the relatively constant water level maintained by blood vessels in the dermis.

Figure 1: 3% of GENENCARE® OSMS BA was shown to help keratinocytes manage water balance

Myth 2: Natural Betaine is not effective in wash-off formulations.

Reality: GENENCARE® OSMS BA natural Betaine has been shown to improve skin (scalp) barrier integrity in a shampoo and conditioner haircare application.  As demonstrated in a TEWL test, 2% of GENENCARE® OSMS BA in a shampoo and conditioner formula has been shown to reduce transepidermal water loss significantly after four weeks of repeated use compared to a control.

Figure 2: 2% of GENENCARE® OSMS BA in a shampoo and conditioner formula has been shown to reduce transepidermal water loss significantly after four weeks of repeated use compared to a control

Myth 3: Natural betaine is unsustainable due to its association with sugar production.

Reality: GENENCARE® OSMS BA natural betaine is obtained from upcycling the molasses, which is a side product of the sugar production process.

Graphic 1: The upcycling process of GENENCARE® OSMS BA natural betaine

Benefits of Natural Betaine in Formulations

Benefit #1: It is easy to formulate with

It is readily soluble in water, much like sugar, making it simple to incorporate into various products. Additionally, betaine is colorless and odorless, ensuring that it does not alter the appearance or scent of the final product. As a pure crystalline powder, it is easy to measure and dose accurately, allowing for precise control over the active content in formulations.

Benefit #2: It is mild.

Betaine is recognized for its mildness and suitability for sensitive skin applications, such as eye care, feminine hygiene, and baby products. It has undergone extensive evaluation for skin sensitization through Human Repeat Insult Patch Tests (HRIPT), demonstrating its gentle nature and low potential for causing skin irritation. Additionally, betaine has been tested for mucosal irritation using in-vitro epivaginal  test, further confirming its safety for use in delicate areas. These studies, including the Cosmetic Ingredient Review report from 2018 and the IFF study from 2021, support betaine’s reputation as a safe and mild ingredient, making it ideal for formulations intended for sensitive skin and mucosal tissues.

Additionally, betaine helps to mitigate the irritation often caused by surfactants, making the formulation gentler on the skin. This dual action of boosting foam quality and reducing irritation makes betaine a valuable ingredient in cleansing formulations.

Figure 3: GENENCARE® OSMS BA natural betaine mitigates skin irritation of surfactants.

Benefit #3: It provides sensory benefits.

Betaine acts in synergy with glycerin and helps to improve the sensory profile of formulation when part of the glycerin is replaced by betaine.

Figure 4: Betaine acts in synergy with glycerin to improve sensory profile

In addition, Betaine offers sensory benefits in cleansing products by enhancing foam volume and stability, ensuring that the foam remains rich and consistent throughout use and improves the user experience.

Conclusion

As an osmolyte, betaine offers moisturization, skin barrier strengthening and other protective benefits in both skin care and hair care formulations. GENENCARE® OSMS BA is a natural betaine upcycled from a sugar production side stream.

Can’t wait to get started? Here are some concept formulations featuring GENENCARE® OSMS BA natural betaine: HydraPearl Face Serum and Purifying Shampoo Paste. These innovative products showcase the versatility and effectiveness of GENENCARE® OSMS BA natural betaine in both skin care and hair care applications.

Curious about GENENCARE® OSMS BA natural betaine? Visit our North America distributor, Essential Ingredients, at California Suppliers’ Day booth #627, and explore  how natural betaine can elevate your formulations. Prefer online? Visit our website to learn more.


*All references to the term “natural” adhere to the standards set by ISO 16128 (Natural Origin Ingredients).

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