Happi: What would be the first step in a good cosmetics color program?
Val Cosh: The first step would be to develop a target color for a particular type of cosmetic. The Creative Team can and does get ideas for a new color from various sources such as color fan decks, various objects they come across in their daily lives, or something that they’ve seen in nature. The key point now becomes how to replicate and maintain that color.


Happi: So, how would someone create or replicate that color the designer found?
Cosh: Taking into consideration other ingredients within the cosmetic, R&D Chemists would likely create a prototype, and either manually add the colorants that they feel would achieve the proper color, or use a device known as a spectrophotometer along with color matching/formulation software. By using the latter, the Chemist would measure the target provided by Creative, and formulate a color match using available colorants from a measured and stored database. This saves a lot of time and money, and reduces waste. There are settings in the software that would allow the Chemist to determine the overall best color match, or to determine the best match using only synthetic or organic materials, or to perform the best cost effective match.


Happi: Where does the prototype go from here, and what is the next step?
Cosh: I would recommend that Creative, R&D, and Production Managers meet to determine if the color of the prototype is what was expected, and one that can be readily manufactured. As cosmetics are used in various settings, I would recommend that this “committee” first visually evaluate this prototype in a Light Booth. This is something that provides controlled lighting and viewing conditions, offering different light sources such as daylight, home light, office light and new LED lighting. This would ensure that the color characteristics of this prototype do not drastically change from a daylight environment to, say, office lighting. If accepted at this point, a plan should be developed to ensure that this color is maintained through the production cycle.


Happi: How would you recommend that?
Cosh: I mentioned the use of a spectrophotometer with the R&D Chemist. These are typically benchtop units with a little more accuracy. For production, a handheld spectrophotometer could be used. I would recommend the committee develop acceptable tolerances for the prototype as it moves to production, and this handheld unit should be used to make sure those tolerances are met. I strongly recommend this to include the incoming pigments or colorants used to create this color, as a small change in these pigments can have a large impact on the final product. I would suggest a Quality Engineer do spot checks during the production cycle rather than just at the end to make sure the color is maintaining through the cycle. If there is a problem with the color, it is best to correct it sooner than later to save time, waste and rework.


Happi: Anything else you would recommend?
Cosh: I would suggest checks on the final product not only with the spectrophotometer, but also visually with a Light Booth. At the end of the day, one of the biggest deciding factors on purchase is how the cosmetic looks. Even if it “passes” all of the quality checks and tolerances on the spectrophotometer, if it doesn’t look good, it likely won’t sell. Also, it is important to maintain proper unit performance, so an annual maintenance and certification will keep the spectrophotometer in optimal working condition. This is especially important for instances where Creative, R&D and Production are all in different global locations.


Happi: This has been very helpful and insightful. Thank you! Are there any other resources for people who are interested in setting up a color program?
Cosh: You are very welcome! And yes, I welcome anyone interested in more information on color management to visit our website. We also hold webinars and in-person seminars on Fundamentals of Color and Appearance where we discuss a bit more of the science and practices behind setting up a proper color program. I appreciate you giving me this opportunity, thank you!
 

About Val Cosh
Val Cosh is Sales Manager (Color and Appearance), Konica Minolta Sensing Americas, Inc. With over 20 years of experience in the world of color measurement, Val has gone from the Service department, to Product Management and all the way to Sales. Val's skills allow him to serve customers by finding the exact product solutions needed, streamlining work flows and getting the highest possible return on investment. In his current role, Val utilizes his background to assist with any and all color measurement demands. He is committed to providing service and support with the assistance of the fantastic support staff at Konica Minolta Sensing Americas.
 
For more information, click here.