In-Cosmetics Global was truly global. The world’s biggest beauty exhibition and conference attracted 10,879 unique and 21,342 total visitors. Why in the world did so many cosmetics industry executives from around the world attend the Amsterdam event? To learn more about the latest raw material launches from raw material suppliers. Here’s a roundup of what Happi saw on the showroom floor in Amsterdam.

Silab Skincare Actives

Silab highlighted new research on two of its skincare actives. Liftilience is a film-forming polyvalent tensor derived from chestnut. It provides rapid (3-15 minutes) and long-lasting (4 to 12 hours) benefits. When formulated in a facial gel (0.32%), Liftilience significantly lifts crow’s feet wrinkles 15 minutes after a single application. When 0.16% Liftilience is added to bodycare formulas, it improved skin firmness (+5%), skin elasticity (+8%) and skin tone (+34%). In a subjective evaluation, 78% of volunteers reported their wrinkles and lines were less visible. Furthermore, 91% reported their skin was more luminous and 100% of them considered it softer, explained Hélène Muchico, marketing and communications manager, Silab.

“It is also a makeup perfector,” she added. “Liftilience provides long-lasting benefits.”

Oxygeskin is a natural active derived from the nasturtium flower. It is said to improve complexion radiance by reinvigorating skin oxygenation that may be depleted due to chronological aging or digital pollution, per Silab. When tested at 0.25% on aged fibroblasts, Oxygeskin reduced the expression of miRNAs. Silab also investigated Oxygeskin on the body. When applied at 1% on the thighs twice a day for 14 days, skin oxygenation increased 4.5%. Microrelief smoothing action was observed (-6.3%) and confirmed by volunteers. In addition, the skin was more radiant and more beautiful according to 83% and 89% of volunteers, respectively. Finally, Oxygeskin improved skin firmness by 7%.

Inolex Innovations

New Inolex President Art Knox, sat down with Happi during In-Cosmetics to discuss a range of new products and initiatives.

“The opportunities are limitless,” said Knox. “We’re growing by offering innovations that are sustainable, functional and cost effective.”

For hair, AminoSensyl Ultra MB is a Cosmos-approved conditioning system that smooths, defines and strengthens hair. The optimized combination of cationic amino lipid and fatty alcohol increases hair strength to prevent breakage and provides equivalent conditioning to behentrimonium chloride (BTAC).

Another sustainable BTAC equivalent is ProCondition 22, a non-quat, cationically-charged hair conditioning agent and emulsifier. It builds formulation stability by forming lamellar liquid crystals. Designed using green chemistry, ProCondition 22 is non-toxic to aquatic life, non-irritating to skin and eyes, and readily biodegradable.

Kerazyne MB is a multifunctional conditioning polymer for cleansers, scalp care and conditioners. This polyquaternium alternative is said to enhance formula mildness and decrease irritation from surfactants.

In the sensory and suncare category, LexFeel Sunlight MB is a 100% natural multifunctional dispersing solution with the power to create lighter, less whitening mineral sunscreens. According to Inolex, LexFeel Sunlight MB enables formulators to create fast spreading, ultralight dispersions, even with uncoated, non-nano zinc oxide.

Besides a broad range of product offerings, Inolex expanded its international presence with commercial hubs in India and Korea in 2023. The company already has manufacturing sites in North Carolina (US), France and Brazil. Most recently, Bradley Cook was appointed executive vice president, global head of manufacturing.

Today, Inolex offers its customers “frictionless” service and a global network to overcome concerns regarding tariffs or supply chain issues.

“We have deep expertise with our products,” said Knox. “We are intimately involved in the sourcing of raw materials with growers and partners, we understand the molecules and the science behind our technologies, and we have the expertise to make what we design.”

Knox describes Inolex as “fiercely independent,” a position that enables the company to take chances on niche categories by getting constant feedback from customers and adapting to their needs.

For example, in premarket testing, customers told Inolex that its new solubilizer was too viscous. Inolex lowered the viscosity, and the result is LexSolv Essential, a 100% natural, EO-free solubilizer that creates clear formulations by solubilizing preservatives, essential oils, and fragrances.

“We’re growing because we’re innovating,” concluded Knox. “We have global capacity, but we’re not a giant conglomerate. We can be nimble and flexible to anticipate formulation trends.”

Evonik Solutions 

Evonik calls itself a “holistic” supplier to the cosmetics industry, offering functional and active ingredients, including preservatives. 

“We have a strong position; we know how to formulate,” said Ute Schick, head of care solutions. “We are passionate leaders in sustainability; 87% of our ingredients are biodegradable.”

Now, Evonik is expanding its portfolio of biotechnology-derived ingredients and natural solutions, including eco-friendly emollients, biosurfactants, vegan collagen, botanicals and natural actives such as ceramides.

Jurgen Meyer, global head of skincare, detailed the benefits of Tegosoft BC MB. This drop-in ingredient is an eco-friendly, natural emollient that can be used in suncare and other skin applications. It is vegan, fully based on renewable resources, biodegradable and produced via an eco-efficient enzymatic process, giving it a lower climate footprint compared to the market standard. It is an excellent solubilizer for crystalline UV filters, according to Meyer, who noted its eco-efficient enzymatic process reduces its environmental footprint.

Rheance D50 is a vegan and cruelty-free multifunctional biosurfactant that is made from renewable feedstocks sourced in Europe. It is manufactured using an eco-friendly fermentation process and is suitable for certified natural cosmetics.

“Evonik is a pioneer in biosurfactants and a trusted partner in glycolipids,” explained Stefan Liebig, technical manager. “We provide application optimization to tailor the sensory and texture properties to meet desired specifications.”

Anne Mu, global head of applied innovation, bioactives, detailed the benefits of Skinlipix HydraShield. It combines olive oil-derived ceramides with two natural hydrators. This unique technology simplifies formulation while enhancing skin barrier function, moisturization and hydration. Specifically, ceramide content increases to replenish the lipid barrier. The material increases Occludin, a major tight junction protein in the skin, as well as AQP-3 a water channel management protein.

Vecollage Fortify GP is a skin-identical, vegan collagen polypeptide. It features a unique dual anti-aging mechanism that targets age-related collagen loss. Using the power of epigenetics, it offers anti-aging performance at minimal use level and can complement skincare routines during aesthetic procedures. Dermosoft GPT MB is a natural multifunctional antimicrobial wetting agent that broadens the options for alternative preservation, while respecting the skin microbiome. It is fully based on renewable resources and produced via an eco-friendly catalyzed process.

CapilMax features a natural active designed to deliver instant hair thickening through a blend of amino acids and extracts. According to Rolf Smits, head of global marketing, botanicals and natural actives, CapilMax imparts 15% more moisturization to the scalp than the placebo.

Oleobiota is a Eugenia Uniflora leaf extract. Its mattifying action gives skin a less oily appearance and minimizes pores, while gently cleansing skin. MaquiGlow, a cutting-edge antioxidant derived from the maqui fruit, showcases the rich biodiversity of Patagonia, Argentina. It enhances skin luminosity and promotes an even skin tone, according to Evonik.

Synesqo’s Latest Launches

Synesqo celebrated the 10th anniversary of its Sustainable Guar Initiative. Since its debut in 2015, the program has helped more than 12,000 smallholder guar farmers in India. 

Now, the company is expanding into new areas. During In-Cosmetics, Synesqo launched Naternal Care Xtra, a bio-based conditioning polymer based on fenugreek. 

“Fenugreek is the next breakthrough, the next milestone in our roadmap for bringing the best biodegradable conditioning polymers to market,” according to Vincent Miralles, global segment leader, haircare. 

He called Naternal Care Xtra a sustainable alternative to polyquaterniums. “Naternal Care Xtra sets a new benchmark in responsible haircare—delivering visible results without compromising environmental values,” said Miralles. “It is a biodegradable 1:1 replacement for PQ-10.”

Dermalcare VG Squalane is a 100% plant-based emollient sourced from canola, sunflower and olive. This multi-origin approach ensures supply security while delivering the same properties and luxurious skin feel as traditional olive squalane. Its softness and rounded feel make it ideal for all skin- and haircare products.

“Traditionally formulators were forced to choose between efficacy and reliable supply,” said Leah Seidenbinder, global marketing skincare manager. “Formulators who work with squalane know the struggle to find reliable supply. Dermalcare VG Squalene has the same properties as 100% olive oil.”

Cerafy Mix Repair is a water-soluble lipids concentrate combining biomimetic ceramides (NP and AP) and phytosphingosine. It is proven in vitro and in vivo to have skin moisturizing, repairing and soothing activity, according to Synesqo. Easy to use and cold-processable, it offers versatile benefits across skin-, hair- and scalp care. Oleogy LEOT is a highly natural amino acid–based oil gelling agent crafted for transparent stick formulations in skincare, suncare and makeup. Compatible with all oils, it delivers a smooth glide and soft, powdery afterfeel—perfect for clean applications. Rheozan BLC W is a nature-derived suspending agent made from biodegradable bacterial cellulose. Effective at low doses, it offers strong particle or droplet stabilization without impacting the viscosity or formulations’ aesthetics in both rinse-off and leave-on products.

New from Sharon Personal Care

Sharon Personal Care introduced three skincare ingredients. Pantrofina Klamath is an active ingredient derived from sweet water Klamath algae. It has applications for anti-inflammaging and photoaging protection for resilient and glowing skin. At very low use levels, it mitigates inflammation-associated skin aging, reduces IL-6 and IL-8 secretion by 84% and 64%, respectively, and strengthens the skin barrier function and improves the skin firmness under extreme photoaging conditions.

“It is an amazing product obtained from a sweet water lake in Oregon,” explained Pascal Yvon, general manager, Americas. “The efficacy is phenomenal. We will create an entire family of marine-based products.”

Patrofina Bakuclear RSPO MB is a water-soluble Bakuchiol for clear and balanced skin. It decreases acne spot volume and area by 13%, reduces sebum by up to 15%, and integrates liposoluble Bakuchiol into water-based products, ensuring clarity. Gentle and non-irritating, it is suitable for daily use and is well tolerated, according to Sharon.

Patrofina Baokiol RSPO MB, is a natural retinol alternative for well-aging. The liposoluble material is said to be 50% more effective than retinol at reducing wrinkles. Sharon calls it gentle and non-irritating, making it ideal for daily well-aging care. It has high thermal stability (24 hours as 120°C), making it ideal for oil-wax and makeup formulations.

“Sharon Personal Care is much more than preservatives,” concluded President Naama Eylon. “We are leveraging synergies and growing sustainably.”

Last year, the company earned a gold medal sustainability rating. It puts Sharon Personal Care among the top 5% of companies assessed by EcoVadis. 

Longevity & Sustainability

BASF offered solutions for two subjects top-of-mind for all formulators. Those focused on longevity should look at Oximony (INCI: Maltodextrin (and) Lysimachia Christinae Flower/Leaf/Stem Extract). It supports the skin’s own healthy levels of taurine to restore radiance, resilience and firmness. 

“We’ve identified 12 hallmarks of aging and we have addressed them all with a single active,” explained Dr. Torsten Clarius, business development, active ingredients, BASF. “Taurine and NAD+ are effective against nine of them.”

Oximony was tested in clinical studies with Chinese volunteers showing common signs of aging. It was applied at 0.25% concentration over two months. After two weeks of application, the ingredient improved skin fatigue appearance (28%), and showed a noticeable difference compared to the placebo (36%), with continued positive results observed at one and two months. Skin firmness increased 17% after one month, while radiance improved 18% from the baseline after two months. 

Switching to Lamesoft OP Plus, reduces greenhouse gas emissions by 60%, compared to silicones. Now BASF is developing upcycled biobased materials and will introduce biodegradable emollients by the end of 2025.

New from Chemyunion

Chemyunion launched ingredients for hair- and skincare formulations. Hidrahair Seal SE MB repairs split ends. It combines a polysaccharide obtained through a fermentation process (pullulan), a disaccharide (trehalose), an amino acid (arginine) and an organic acid (lactic acid), in an aqueous system with propanediol. Together, they form a bioadhesive, flexible and uniform film that seals damaged ends, improving the texture and strength of the hair fiber. Hidrahair Seal SE MB is said to chemically interact with the hair fiber surface, ensuring effective adhesion even on rougher surfaces. This results in a long-lasting treatment that protects against further damage and restores a healthier and revitalized appearance to the hair. 

“This silicone replacement is good for hair and good for the environment,” noted Cristiane Rodrigues da Silva Pacheco, VP-new business, Chemyunion. “The sugars and amino acids interact and protect hair. It really represents out- of-the-box thinking on hair repair.”

For skincare, Ecoffea Citrus is said to boost structural proteins. In bodycare, it enhances texture and diminishes wrinkles and fine lines on the neck and décolleté areas. At .5%, after 28 days, it is said to stimulate cellular longevity, reduce fine lines and wrinkles and improve elasticity, texture and roughness. An upcycled material, Ecoffea Citrus contains coffee seed and lemon extracts.

Vantage’s Longevity Secret

From Baby Boomers to Gen Alpha, consumers are concerned with the impacts aging has on their appearance. Beto Pino, VP-technical marketing & innovation, personal care, at Vantage, detailed several ingredients that help consumers look their best no matter what their age.

“It’s not about beauty, it’s about wellness,” he explained. “Aging is a privilege. But 80% of how people look when they are old is based on decisions they made when they were young. Today, consumers in their 20s and 30s are thinking about how they will look at 60.”

The Vantage Oasis, Beauty in Balance, concept combines beauty and wellness to create balance in everyday routines. For example, Gen Zers and Millennials prioritize products that make their skin feel and look healthy and hydrated. During In-Cosmetics Global, Vantage launched several products that promote health and beauty. Tucuma Oil (Tucum-HA EF) combines tucuma oil with hyaluronic acid and jojoba esters to hydrate skin and stimulate hyaluronic acid activity in fibroblasts to promote firmness and elasticity. Angel-Eye EFX is a microcirculation boost for wrinkle prevention. At 1%, blood circulation increases 40%.

“Angel Eye is the new caffeine,” insisted Pino. “It’s a great anti-wrinkle material.”

UV protection is the best defense against wrinkles. New Distinctive Sunbooster is a multifunctional SPF booster emollient to disperse UV filters and pigments.

Lipovol Origin Cacay is a fully traceable and sustainable Colombian cold-pressed oil with anti-aging and nourishing benefits.

Besides new product introductions, Vantage studied five Blue Zone cities where the population ages gracefully—Ikaria, Greece; Sardinia Italy; Okinawa, Japan, Nicoya, Costa Rica and Loma Linda, CA. Vantage researchers concluded a balanced diet, continuous movement and a sense of community converge, enabling these “blue zone” inhabitants to thrive.

“People who live to 100 have three things in common,” concluded Pino. “Nutrition, movement and purpose.”