In both the prestige and mass market sectors, 2015 marked a turning point for the beauty industry, driven largely by shifts taking place within the skin care category and the heightened importance of Millennials, according to data from global information company The NPD Group. Skin care and wellness are more intertwined than ever, anti-aging is becoming more generalized and the lines are blurring between makeup and skin care, noted NPD in its findings.


Brands with a natural and/or clinical orientation now represent the largest combined share of prestige skin care sales and accounted for all category gains. 


This trend coincides with consumers’ interest in facial skin care products with more natural and clinical appeal. While sales of primary care categories including facial cleansers and exfoliators, oil/shine control, toners/clarifiers and masks grew in 2015, the biggest growth areas were in products with an emphasis on complexion preparation. Adding millions of dollars to both the skin care and makeup markets, CC creams and makeup primers alone contributed more than $490 million in sales in 2015, growing 58% in two years.


“The prestige beauty industry has reached a new milestone and a moment of potentially fundamental change,” said Karen Grant, global beauty industry analyst, The NPD Group. “Across beauty, the categories, brands, and products that appeal to younger age groups have become the leaders of growth. New or once overlooked product types are at the forefront, as are new or smaller brands once thought of as less significant. The impact of the internet has further changed the way brands engage with and reach consumers. In this environment, major brands are looking inward and outward to build their presence and equity in ways that resonate with younger consumers, who are not only fresh to the market, but more multigenerational in influence, multinational and multicultural.”


According to Information Resources Inc. (IRI), mass market sales of skin care slipped slightly, down 1.1%, to $3.5 billion in US multi-outlets (supermarkets, drugstores, mass market retailers, military commissaries and select club and dollar retail chains) for the 52 weeks ended Feb. 21, 2016. Facial cleanser sales jumped 5% to $1.08 billion while facial moisturizer sales rose 3.8% to $438.5 million. However, facial anti-aging fell 6.6% to $1.1 billion while body anti-aging slipped 12.9% to $21.2 million. Acne treatments dipped 3.4% to $608.5 million and depilatories decreased 3% to $166.5 million. Fade/bleach sales stayed flat at $85.3 million.


Special Requests


As consumers look to protect their skin from the elements, ingredients that are popping up as the first line of defense include niacinamide (Nia 24 Intensive Recovery Complex), lipids like ceramides (Epionce Medical Barrier Cream), natural cholesterols and fatty acids (SkinCeuticals Triple Lipid Restore) and moringa extract (Decleor Hydra Floral line), observed Barbara Guidry, director of merchandising for Dermstore, El Segundo, CA.

“These key ingredients prevent damage by protecting the skin and providing a barrier between the skin’s outer layer and the environment,” she explained. “Antioxidants are also another key component in the fight against pollution, by helping skin fight harmful free radicals.”

According to Dermatologist and Dove Spokesman Alicia Barba of Miami, spring is the time her patients look beyond their face and hands to take a holistic approach to their skin care routine—including a focus on areas like legs, underarms and neck.

“I have noticed products/ingredients that have been in the dermatology space for a while and are now making their way into mainstream skin care. Niacinamide is wonderful both as a natural skin lightener and, potentially, as an acne-fighting ingredient,” she told Happi. “We have been using cellulose face masks that come in a sheet in the clinic now for almost two years. I have noticed that these are now available in mainstream stores. Some of the cellulose face masks are full of ingredients like hyaluronic acid, glycerin, vitamins C and E, and arbutin.”

Nicolette Peters, who works for global marketing at Exuviance, Princeton, NJ, added that savvy shoppers have always been on the hunt for products containing retinol and this trend continues, due to the tried and true benefits of this “incredible” ingredient.
“Recently, we’ve noticed an increase in requests for products with vitamin C, which is great for helping protect skin from environmental damage but is also vital in the production of collagen,” Peters told Happi. 

According to Peters, “oxygen has made its way to the top of the ‘must-have’ list for restoring and detoxifying skin and providing that instant boost that we are all chasing.”  

Dr. Howard Sobel, a New York-based dermatologist whose products are sold at Ulta and online, observed that “with flowers blooming and spring in the air, the top trends are those that are clean, environmentally safe with a focus on ‘less is more’…shoppers want multi-tasking products and a simple skin care routine.”


A Bevy of Launches


Marketers from mass to prestige are rolling out collections this season targeting everything from spots to sagging skin. Some are incorporating natural ingredients into the mix to highlight the benefits of green beauty. For example, Aveeno’s new Absolutely Ageless line feature an Active Naturals Blackberry Complex that combines blackberry leaf extract and dill to help improve the appearance of lines, wrinkles and other signs of aging. Products include a Daily Moisturizer Broad Spectrum SPF 30 as well as a   Nourishing Cleanser.

Avon’s newest skin care products, Anew Clinical Line Eraser with Retinol Treatment and Anew Clinical Line Eraser with Retinol Targeted Treatment, are designed for tandem use. According to the company, in just days, this “power duo” tackles the look of fine lines and wrinkles, making it an easy, at-home alternative to a visit to the dermatologist. A derivative of vitamin A, retinol keeps skin looking young by smoothing away the appearance of wrinkles. The Anew Clinical Line Eraser with Retinol Treatment utilizes retinol with an Avon-exclusive amino-acid based anti-aging technology to power this fast-acting serum. The targeted treatment uses retinol in two ways: free retinol for immediate action and retinol in a time released delivery technology for wrinkle-fighting action all day. Both products provide an at-home remedy for dramatic wrinkle-fighting results.

With a recent campaign starring actress Shay Mitchell, Bioré is promoting its new baking soda cleansers. The Bioré Baking Soda Pore Cleanser is a dual-action liquid cleanser that deep cleans and exfoliates, leaving skin feeling soft, clean and smooth. The Bioré Baking Soda Cleansing Scrub is a concentrated powder cleanser that foams on contact with water, leaving skin 2.5 times cleaner than a basic cleanser, contends the company. Both formulations are said to be ideal for combination skin.

L’Oréal says Garnier SkinActive is a new range developed to meet the needs and demands of a modern, busy life. Using antioxidant science, Garnier SkinActive penetrates skin and fights oxidation. It contains Micellar Cleansing Water, an all-in-one cleanser and makeup remover with a bi-phase formula that removes even the most stubborn long-wear makeup; as well as the Clearly Brighter range, said to harness the power of vitamin C antioxidant complex to yield advanced brightening and smoothing. Model-turned-lifestyle-expert Molly Sims is the campaign spokesperson.

Targeting those with sensitive skin, Jason Gentle Basics is formulated with a minimal number of essential ingredients. The entire Gentle Basics Collection utilizes borage oil, which is high in gamma-linolenic acid (GLA), an essential omega-3 fatty acid, proven effective in promoting hydration. The hypoallergenic, fragrance-free product line includes cleanser and towelette.

Meanwhile, one of the most popular La Roche-Posay products in Europe has made its way to the US. La Roche-Posay Serozinc is the brand’s first mattifying facial mist for oily skin to help reduce the appearance of shine. Featuring zinc sulfate, it is specifically designed to target key signs of oily skin.

“It’s all about balance—pH balance, balance between too oily and too dry, too ‘overdone’ and just the right amount of work. Also going for a natural, radiant, dewy glow via hydration,” said Dr. Mona Gohara of Danbury, CT, about the launch. “La Roche Posay Serozinc is a perfect product to strike equilibrium between too oily and just right. It is light and easy to layer.”

L’Oréal Paris is gaining ground with its newest launch, Age Perfect Hydra-Nutrition Facial Oil SPF 30. It is touted as L’Oréal Paris’ first facial oil containing broad-spectrum SPF. This lightweight, non-greasy formula soaks deeply into skin for intense, glowing, nourishment, said the company. The formulation contains eight essential oils, chamomile, lavender, English lavender, marjoram, peppermint, orange, rosemary and geranium, that penetrate into the skin’s surface layer to provide long-lasting hydration and a healthy glow, said the company.

Dr. Rocio Rivera, director of scientific communications for L’Oréal Expert/Paris, New York, touted the benefits of oils in skin care.
“Essential, precious, coconut, argan oil, olive oil…no matter the oil, the idea is simple—oils are a key ingredient in skin care to ensure that the skin is replenished and restored for a youthful healthy glow,” she told Happi. “All skin types will benefit from them. If you want to take the oil benefits to the next level, use one with a broad spectrum SPF. Oils have completely taken consumers by surprise as they have had a negative take to them for so many years.”

Olay is going big this season with Regenerist Micro-Sculpting Cream with SPF 30, making this best-selling anti-aging moisturizer available SPF 30 to defend skin against harmful UVA/UVB rays. The fast-absorbing and non-greasy formula instantly reduces the look of fine lines and wrinkles while firming skin over time, said sources at Olay. Another top launch for the brand is Olay Regenerist Micro-Sculpting EyeSwirl eye cream, comprised of a dual-phase formula designed with a hydrating gel to firm the undereye area and a cream to brighten the eyes. This eye cream contains Amino-Peptide Complex, which is said to improve natural surface cell regeneration to smooth, brighten and reveal younger-looking skin over time.

Galderma expanded its Cetaphil brand to include Cetaphil Men. The seven new products that make up the Cetaphil Men product line are said to complement the Cetaphil family, offering an extensive line of solutions to clean, moisturize and protect men’s skin. According to recent research from Mintel, US sales of men’s personal care products is anticipated to reach $4.7 billion  by 2020, so this launch comes at an opportune time for the brand.  


Prestige Picks


Big news in the industry right now is Gwyneth Paltrow’s new line, Goop by Juice Beauty. Presented as a high-performance, age-defying skin care line that merges luxury formulas with certified organic ingredients, each product features “glow-inducing, age-defying” Meristem plant cells sustainably sourced from poet’s daffodil and sweet iris, then blended with a revolutionary antioxidant juice complex designed to brighten skin tone and target fine lines and wrinkles.


Therese Clark, executive partner at Huntington Beach, CA-based Crème Creative, a team of product innovators, strategists and visual stylists who worked on the launch, told Happi, “Goop embodies the best of clean, natural and organic ingredients backed by science in formulas that finally elevate the skin care experience. Far from typical ‘farm to face,’ often associated with lack of performance in textures that are not always pleasant to use, Goop is among the truly efficacious and luxurious; a brand that we consider the ‘Tesla’ of natural beauty.”


Skinfix Inc., a Canadian brand sold at Ulta, recently rolled out the Healthy Skin Face Collection. Dermatologist recommended and formulated with a proprietary Healthy Skin Lipid Complex, which is clinically proven to keep the skin barrier healthy, products range from a foaming oil cleanser to hydrating lotion. Double-walled, airless bottles and jars keep the formulas fresh and hygienic and the bottle design is inspired by South Korean pottery.


“At Skinfix, we like to shake things up and challenge the status quo. Since launching in the US one year ago, our body care regimens focusing on healthy skin have become cult favorites,” said Amy Gordinier-Regan, president of Skinfix, Halifax. “We are excited to continue our US expansion and to partner with Ulta Beauty to bring our exclusive Healthy Skin Face and Bodycare Collections to a new beauty consumer.”


Originally developed in Japan 37 years ago and introduced to the US in 2002, Boscia is billed as the world’s first 100% preservative-free skin care brand. Its latest rollout, Tsubaki Glotion, is a moisturizer infused with tsubaki oil and a natural mineral blend of light-reflecting pigments to leave skin hydrated and instantly luminized for a glowing complexion.

Esteé Lauder’s latest creation taps into the sheet mask trend. Advanced Night Repair Concentrated Recovery PowerFoil Mask uses foil to lock in moisture 25 times faster than a traditional cotton sheet mask, said the company. Each treatment delivers a surge of liquid revitalization, immersing skin in a double dose of Advanced Night Repair Serum’s powerful moisture magnet, hyaluronic acid. It includes the brand’s proven ChronoluxCB technologies to support skin’s natural re-synchronizing and encourage its innate repair process.


Peter Thomas Roth Retinol Fusion Eye Cream is promoted for “maximum results and minimum irritation.”  A concentrate of microencapsulated retinol at 1% helps encourage the skin’s renewal process for a more youthful appearance to the delicate eye area, said the company. Microencapsulated retinol delivers a gentle, sustained release of the active over eight hours to help increase skin smoothness, and reduce the appearance of darkness due to pigmentation, fine lines and wrinkles. This rich, moisturizing formula, infused with nourishing shea butter and vitamins A, C and E helps to soothe and protect delicate skin. Caffeine helps to reduce the appearance of puffiness. It hits stores in June.


Fresh calls its new Black Tea Age-Delay Firming Serum “groundbreaking.” Developed at the Fresh research lab, this “next-generation” serum is said to harness the power of science to firm the skin and smooth the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles while providing a more luminous look. This “do-it-all” serum is said to envelop skin with immediate and continuous moisture that builds over time, which is crucial since dehydration leads to signs of aging, according to Fresh. The serum’s fast-absorbing fluid texture is said to be ideal for layering under lotions and creams.


“Infused with Fresh’s proprietary Black Tea Complex, which we call our ‘immortal elixir,’ this universal age-delay serum is proven to have a corset-like effect on the skin for a more visibly defined and contoured complexion,” said Lev Glazman, Fresh co-founder and head of the Fresh research lab.


Fresh’s chemists identified four potent natural ingredients that work in harmony to halt the effects of aging: black tea ferment (Kombucha), black tea extract, lychee seed extract and blackberry leaf extract.


Eating healthy and exercising is a great way to detox your body, but what about your skin? Between late nights, stress and environmental pollutants, your face could use a break. Origins’ new By All Greens Foaming Deep Cleansing Mask contains antioxidant-rich spirulina, spinach and green tea to gently but instantly detox and deep clean skin, according to the company. The two-in-one, self-foaming green clay mask provides the penetrating treatment of a detoxifying mask while delivering the purifying power of a high-performance cleanser, revealing radiant and refreshed skin. By All Greens Foaming Deep Cleansing Mask blends three super greens with kaolin clay and coconut-derived cleansers.


With the trend of the health-conscious lifestyle on the rise, nutritious food-grade ingredients are showing up in cosmetic and skin care formulations. With new products boasting everything from snail secretions to lamb fat, 2015 was certainly a year of exploration in the health and beauty space. Perricone MD was already ahead of this trend with its history of blending health and beauty into one. 


Inspired by its OVM product and its skin-nourishing, food-based ingredients, Dr. Perricone once again harnessed the power of the delicate eggshell membrane to create OVM Serum. Combined with a proprietary carrier system, DMAE and retinol, the blend creates an extremely effective serum. According to Perricone, OVM Serum provides all the benefits of retinol with zero inflammation thanks to the power of eggshell membrane. The formula is also infused with vitamin C ester and vitamin E for enhanced conditioning and nourishing effects, said the company. When applied to the skin, OVM Serum delivers instant tightening benefits while imparting elegant radiance.


The brand also recently expands its line of “disruptive” skin care, Re:Firm.


Rodial new Snake Booster Oil is a concentrated facial oil that contains Syn-ake dipeptide and targeted peptides. This soft and hydrating facial oil is said to dramatically firm and tighten skin on a long-term basis, said the company The brand also recently rolled out a unique neck mask that relies on bio-cellulose technology to lift, tone, hydrate and moisturize the neck area, according to Rodial. Amino acids and wheat protein help to tense and visibly tighten the skin, helping the neck area to appear younger and lifted. Rodial Neck Masks have been enhanced with the infusion of intense Syn-ake dipeptide technology, which works to contract muscle cells to instantly freeze and lift the neck area.


Shiseido is going big on lightening and brightening with its White Lucent products. White Lucent Luminizing Infuser gently softens skin’s surface and deeply infuses ingredients into the surface to improve the appearance of dark spots and generate bright skin. White Lucent MicroTargeting Spot Corrector addresses and targets dark spots for long-lasting brightening effects and luminous skin through a highly effective serum. White Lucent Luminizing Surge protects skin with an ionic veil to help diminish the appearance of dark spots and keep them diminished with powerful brightening ingredients.


At Dr. Jart, the latest news is the Liftra collection, a new program to help sculpt and contour skin while boosting facial elasticity. This “costhetic” (cosmetic + aesthetic) is an at-home regimen inspired by the growing trend of dermatological facial contouring treatments and makeup contouring. The triple-action Liftra collection comes in a three-step contouring set including a Contour Cream, Shaper + Contour Fixer to help fill and fix the look of saggy facial lines. It offers an immediate boost to the appearance of volume and elasticity as well as a long-lasting contouring effect, said the company.


Liftra Contour Cream is a highly concentrated, sticky cream with a fine thread texture. The collagenic elasticity threads produce a dense elastic feeling that firmly cling to skin providing a contoured and defined appearance. Rich in nutrients, the formula also works to collect and attract moisture. Liftra Shaper is an angled roller that’s designed to fit a variety of facial shapes comfortably, cling to skin and help lift saggy and droopy facial lines. Liftra Contour Fixer is a simple mist to be applied after the Contour Cream to help enhance and prolong the contouring effects. Key ingredients in the program include a power contouring complex combined with poly lactic acid, the same ingredient in many popular injectibles, which promotes collagen generation and maintains skin elasticity, according to the company.


Expansions All Over


Guidry of Dermstore told Happi that at-home technology is on the rise in skin care.

“I think we’ve just started to see the tip of the iceberg with at-home professional quality devices—especially with light therapy devices like LightStim—as well as devices that measure skin health and connect to your smartphone,” she explained.

Guidry added that another area of concern that people tend to neglect is the neck and the industry is starting to create products dedicated specifically to this area.

“We take such good care of our faces and tend to neglect our necks.  It’s a dead giveaway for your age!”  she noted.

Barba of Dove added that the skin care marketplace is going to see reformulation of scrubs, removing the banned polyethylene beads for ingredients that are sustainable and environment friendly like bamboo and jojoba beads.

Exuviance’s Peters noted that antioxidants have been a key piece of anti-aging skin care, but she anticipates a greater focus on anti-pollution as an added dimension to antioxidants and anti-environmental damage.

“This trend will be especially necessary by summer’s end for those looking to recover from a summer outdoors,” she explained.  Be on the lookout for body products that do much more than simply moisturize. We anticipate a trend to greater focus on treating body as an aging zone. Skin care is extending to the neck and décolletage, we anticipate a continuation of this trend for body treatments that provide real anti-aging benefits well beyond the average moisturizer, especially during the summer months.” 

New Skin Care Ingredients
Here is a list of new skin care ingredients available from select suppliers

Ajinomoto North America Inc.
Raleigh, NC
Tel:  201-292-3180
Email: specialty_and_personal_care_cst@ajiusa.com
Website:  www.ajiaminobeauty.com

Amisafe LL – DS – 22
INCI:  Disodium sebacoyl bis-lauramidolysine
Use Levels: 0.5wt% for surfactant-based cleansing products
Applications: Facial wash, body wash, shampoo, hair conditioner
Comments: Improves foamability. It imparts excellent smoothness and lubricity.

Aquadew SPA-30 B 
INCI: Sodium polyaspartate, butylene glycol, disodium EDTA
Use Levels: 1-5wt%
Applications: Skin care products, hair care products, sun care products, make-up products, health care
Comments:  An anionic moisturizer that has high affinity for skin and hair. It leaves skin feeling moist, smooth and completely tack free. It also acts as an excellent moisturizer for hair, improves manageability and protects hair from split ends or breakage.

Amilite GCK-12-H
INCI:  Potassium cocoyl glycinate, potassium cocoate
Use Levels: 10-35 wt%
Applications:  Body wash, facial cleansers, shampoo
Comments: Amino acid-glycine based surfactant with excellent foaming property. It provides creamy and resilient foam even in the presence of oil and leaves skin feeling fresh without a taut feeling.

Amisoft ECS-22W
INCI:  Disodium cocoyl glutamate
Use Levels: 10-35 wt%
Applications: Body wash, hand wash, hair shampoo, facial wash, make-up cleansing, bar soap
Comments: Natural, cost effective, mild, ecofriendly surfactant. It has excellent foaming power and foam stability. It provides conditioning and moisturizing effects to the hair and skin.

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Arista Industries, Inc.
Wilton, CT
Tel:  203-761-1009
Email:  info@aristaindustries.com
Website:  www.aristaindustries.com

Moringa Oil
INCI: Moringa oleifera kernel oil
Use Levels: 1-100% depending on formula
Applications: Cosmetics and personal care, including eye treatment and anti-aging wrinkle formulas, as a perfume base, in massage and aromatherapy products, skin care lotions, creams and moisturizers and acne treatments and hair care products
Comments: Contains essential proteins, minerals and vitamins and high in oleic acid, which helps retain moisture. Natural anti-inflammatory and contains antiseptic properties. Moringa Oil has various antioxidant & skin rejuvenating qualities. 

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BASF Corporation
Florham Park NJ
Tel: 1-800-880-5768
Email: personal-care-na@basf.com
Website: www.carecreations.basf.com/?utm_source=HAP&utm_medium=ContentMarketing&utm_campaign=HAP/

Cetiol Ultimate
INCI: Undecane (and) tridecane
Use Levels: 2-10%
Applications: Creams, light moisturizers, sprayable lotions, natural formulations
Comments: Cetiol Ultimate is a light, volatile emollient derived from 100% natural, renewable sources that offers performance parity to synthetic cyclomethicone. Cetiol Ultimate is especially suited for use in face care and premium skin care products as well as natural concepts. NPA and Ecocert-certified.

Argassential
INCI: Lauryl glucoside (and) polyglyceryl 2-dihydroxy stearate (and) glycerin (and) dicaprylyl ether (and) sorbitol (and) argania spinosa extract (argania spinosa fruit extract)
Use Levels: 1-2%
Applications: Face care and lip care
Comments: The newest ingredient from the BASF Sustainable Argan Program addresses both lipoatrophy and collagen production to plump the skin and lips. By targeting two pathways, there is a measurable increase in volume, elasticity and firmness.
INCI: Hydrolyzed adansonia digitata extract
Use Levels: 1-3%
Applications: Men’s care and skin care
Comments: The first bioactive ingredient from BASF developed specifically for men. By targeting versican, a proteoglycan that accumulates in men’s elastic fibers, there is significant improvement in viscoelasticity and a visible reduction in deep wrinkles.

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Biosil Technologies Inc.
Allendale, NJ
Tel: 201-825-8800  
E-mail: bioinfo@biosiltech.com
Website: www.biosiltech.com

PAE Complex Hydration and Repair
INCI: Aloe barbadensis leaf juice (and) glycerin (and) phytic acid (and) laminaria saccharina extract
Use Level: 3-15.15%
Applications: Creams, lotions, serums, masks.
Comments: Exfoliating properties for skin, increases hydration,  improves skin imperfections, reduces inflammation, moisturizes skin, provides chelating efficacy and is easy to use in formulations.

PAE Complex Oil Control
INCI: Aloe barbadensis leaf juice (and) algae extract (and) phytic acid
Use Level: 3.3-10%
Applications: Creams, lotions, serums, masks, shampoos, conditioners, sprays. 
Comments: Exfoliating properties for skin and scalp, decreases sebum production, moisturizes skin and hair, reduces inflammation, provides chelating efficacy, easy to use in formulations.

PAE Complex Skin Revitalizer
INCI: Aloe barbadensis leaf juice (and) phytic acid (and) ascorbyl methylsilanol pectinate
Use Level: 10-13.3%
Applications: Creams, lotions, serums, masks.
Comments: Exfoliating properties for skin, provides skin firming, improves skin tone, reduces inflammation and irritation, moisturizes skin, provides chelating efficacy and easy to use in formulations.

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Centerchem Inc.
Norwalk, CT
Tel: 203-822-9800
Email: cosmetics@centerchem.com
Website: www.centerchem.com

SYN-EYE
INCI: Palmitoyl tripeptide-5, panthenol, sodium hyaluroniate, dunaliella salina extract
Use Levels: 1.0%
Applications: Anti-aging skin products
Comments: Syn-Eye is a multifunctional ingredient designed to help fight the appearance of lines and wrinkles as well as dark circles in the eye-area.  It combines palmitoyl tripepide-5 with hyaluronic acid, panthenol and Dunaliella salina extract to yield visible results of reduced lines and wrinkles around the eye within 7 days. Syn-Eye efficacy was evaluated in a four week in vivo study.  When tested against a placebo, Syn-Eye showed significant reduction in the appearance of wrinkles and smoother skin in only 7 days. Visibly brighter skin color in the dark circle area was noted after 14 days. Syn-Eye is the perfect addition to fast-acting and multifunctional eye care formulation.

AGascalm
INCI: Propanediol, glycerin, agastache Mexicana flower/leaf/stem extract
Use Levels: 1.0–3.0%
Applications: Skin care products
Comments: Agascalm is an active from the Mexican plant, Agastache Mexicana, which helps to reduce stress-induced inflammation and redness of the skin. Agascalm inhibits the release of some of the cytokines responsible for skin inflammation. It modulates the biochemical mechanisms that link psychological stress with skin deterioration and can be incorporated into any cosmetic product designed to repair and protect skin against the negative consequences caused by psychological stress. It is highly recommended for sensitive skin products, which target atopic dermatitis, psoriasis and rosacea.

Lingostem
INCI: Water, glycerin, vaccinium vitis-idaea fruit extract, xanthan gum, sodium benzoate, gluconolactone, calcium gluconate
Use Levels: 1.00-3.0%
Applications: Skin care and sun care products
Comments: Lingostem is a stem cell culture derived from the Vaccinium vitis-idaea (Lingonberry or cowberry). It has been developed in the manner where cells are stressed with light to encourage the production of protective polyphenols. It contains anthocyanins, hydroxycinnamic acids, flavan-3-ols and flavonols. The active components of Lingostem fight the signs of photoaging by limiting the oxidative and inflammatory damage that UV and IR radiation causes to the skin cell and extracellular matrix. An UVA Oxidative Stress Test has shown that Lingostem restores the antioxidant capacity of the skin, which is challenged by solar exposure. Lingostem is a great addition for cosmetic product targeting prevention and repair from photoaging as well as product providing infrared protection.

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CLR Chemisches Laboratorium
Dr. Kurt Richter GmbH
Berlin / Germany
Tel: +49 30 85 10 26 0
Email: info@clr-berlin.com
Website: www.clr-berlin.com

ProRenew Complex CLR
INCI: Lactococcus ferment lysate
Suggested Use Levels: 3%
Applications: Skin regeneration, barrier maintenance and repair, skin protection
Comments: Based on probiotic technology, ProRenew Complex CLR acts on essential features in the aging process of the skin, its ability to both successfully adapt to its constantly changing environment and to effectively renew itself.

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Corbion Purac
Gorinchem, the Netherlands
Tel: +31 183 695 695
Email: biobased@corbion.com
Website: www.corbion.com/personalcare

Purac UltraPure
INCI: Lactic acid (and) aqua
Suggested Use Levels: For moisturization, 2–5%; for anti-aging, 5-10%.
Applications: Skin care (moisturization and anti-aging)
Comments: Purac UltraPure is a unique, high-quality grade of L-lactic acid with an extremely low base odor and a water-clear appearance. It is the purest natural lactic acid available and brings powerful moisturization and anti-aging properties to formulations where an exceptionally low base odor is required.

Croda Inc
Edison, NJ
Tel: 732-417-0800
Email: marketing-usa@croda.com
Website: crodapersonalcare.com

Crodarom Elfe Flower
INCI: Glycerin, water, epimedium grandiflorum flower/leaf/stem extract
Use Levels: Max. 5%
Applications: Anti-aging skin care, creams, color cosmetics, hair masks, massage oils, bath bombs
Comments: Traditionally used as aphrodisiac, it has played a vital multifaceted role in traditional Asian medicine for at least 1,000 years. With anti-inflammatory, antioxidant and anti-tiredness properties, Crodarom Elfe Flower is an ideal ingredient for anti-fatigue or tonifying concepts.

Prolevis
INCI: Aqua and hydrolyzed vegetable protein
Use Levels: 0.5%-1.5%
Applications: Face/neck creams, firming treatments, creams and lotions, mature skin care products, green products
Comments: A high molecular weight protein with exceptional film forming capabilities, Prolevis envelops the skin, instantly smoothing visible surface wrinkles and imperfections. With up to 75% of volunteers highlighting that Prolevis gave them instantly smoother looking skin, it is the obvious choice for anti-aging skin care formulations where, to the discerning consumer, seeing is believing.

Cithrol 10GTIS
INCI: PEG-20 glyceryl triisostearate
Use Levels: 5%-30% w/w
Applications: Microemulsion oil cleansers, cleansing oils
Comments: Cithrol 10GTIS creates advanced high performance microemulsion facial cleansers that are crystal clear, gentle to skin and easily rinsed with no oily residue. A highly effective and mild surfactant, Cithrol 10GTIS allows the formulation of crystal clear facial cleansers made up of oil and water in a microemulsion, maintaining the perfect hydro-lipophilic balance required for this type of high performance system. Cithrol 10GTIS can also be used to create simple oil cleansers, emulsifying cleansing oils on contact with water.
 

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Evonik Corporation
Richmond, VA
Tel: 804-727-0709
Email: amy.caudill@evonik.com
Website:  www.evonik.com/personal-care

SK-Influx V skin-identical lipid concentrate
INCI: Ceramide NP; Ceramide AP; Ceramide EOP; phytosphingosine; cholesterol; sodium lauroyl lactylate; carbomer; xanthan gum
Use Levels: Typically, 3 to 5% for aging or dry skin
Applications: Formulations for aging skin, dry skin or sensitive skin
Comments: SK-Influx is a skin-identical lipid concentrate that helps restore the protective barrier function of the skin. SK-Influx V is a new version of SK-Influx, with non-animal cholesterol (vegetal-derived, semi-synthetic cholesterol) that is chemically and physically indistinguishable from the animal-based product.

TEGO Cosmo C 100 multifunctional additive
INCI: Creatine
Use Levels:  0.5 to 1.4% by weight
Applications: Formulations for skin soothing, anti-aging, after-sun and moisturizing.
Comments:  Manufactured via a patented process, Tego Cosmo C 100 is the highest quality and purity creatine available on the market. It is important as a multifunctional additive for both skin and hair care formulations.

TEGO Care PBS 6, PEG-free O/W emulsifier
INCI: Polyglyceryl-6 stearate (and) polyglyceryl-6 behenate
Use Levels: Approx. 2.5 to 4.0% in lotions and sprays.
Applications: Ideal for sun care lotions and sprays and other challenging fluid emulsions with difficult to stabilize ingredients.  
Comments: Tego Care PBS 6 provides excellent stabilization for all types of O/W lotions and sprays, especially low-viscous ones, and including sun care products with high amounts of water soluble UV filters in combination with insect repellents. It is fully based on renewable sources and thus, Ecocert, NaTrue and Cosmos certified.

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Gattefossé
Paramus, NJ
Tel: 201-265-4800
Email: info@gattefossecorp.com
Website: www.gattefosse.com

Gatuline Renew
INCI: Butylene glycol (and) water (and) cryptomeria japonica bud extract
Suggested Use Levels: 1%
Applications: Skin care, anti-aging, moisturizing, skin perfectors, pro-aging lines
Comments: Gatuline Renew acts specifically on skin texture – smoothing, hydrating and softening the skin to give it a visibly younger appearance. It relaunches the cell renewal mechanism, restoring the capacity of the skin to regenerate and defend itself.

Gatuline Spot-Light
INCI: Butylene glycol (and) actinidia chinensis (kiwi) fruit water (and) alcohol (and) sophora flavescens root extract
Use Levels: 3%     
Applications: Skin lightening, age spot corrector
Comments: Gatuline Spot-Light is a new, natural and in vivo substantiated active ingredient that works in both the epidermis and dermis to prevent and treat the appearance of age spots on the skin.
 

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Hallstar
Chicago, IL
Tel: 877-427-4255
Website: www.hallstar.com

Biochemica Calendula Butter
INCI: Prunus amygdalus dulcis (sweet almond) oil (and) hydrogenated vegetable oil (and) calendula officinalis flower extract
Use Levels: Up to 10%
Applications: Facial, hand and body care, including baby care and after sun skin care.
Comments: Biochemica Calendula Butter is an off-white butter produced via lipid extraction of finely ground Calendula officinalis flowers used to impart moisturization while providing additional care to tender, stressed and damaged skin.
 

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Independent Chemical
Glendale, NY
Tel:  718-894-0700
Email: lu@independentchemical.com
Website: www.independentchemical.com

IPBS-F
INCI:  Isopropylbenzyl salicylate
Use Levels: 0.1-5%
Applications:  Skin care creams and lotions, hair care, makeup, sun care, fragrances
Comments:  Vevy Europe’s IPBS-F is an enhancer and stabilizer of fragrances in a wide variety of personal care and cosmetic applications. It helps to strengthen the odor and extend its longevity. IPBS-F has excellent compatibility with surfactants and essential oils.

BergaCare SmartLipids
INCI:  Depends on customers’  individual lipid combination
Use Levels:  2-10%
Applications:  Tailor-made solutions can be developed to meet individual customer needs. Initial applications are concentrated around antioxidants/anti-aging products, whitening applications and sun care
Comments: BergaCare SmartLipids is a powerful lipid-based delivery system designed for the protection and controlled release of active substances. It helps to improve the efficacy of actives in the formulation, enhance penetration, control releases and restore skin’s natural barrier function.  The system is open to custom-design.

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Inolex
Philadelphia, PA
Tel: 215-271-2621
Email: cosmeticinfo@inolex.com
Website: www.inolex.com

SustOleo MCT
INCI: Triheptanoin
Use Levels: Formula dependent
Applications: Lotions, creams, butter, cleansing oils, serums, foundations and other color cosmetics.
Comments: SustOleo MCT is a palm-free, natural alternative to caprylic/capric triglycerides. It is a medium spreading, clear and odorless, natural emollient with an elegant after feel. SustOleo MCT has excellent solvent properties for sun filters and is an exceptional dispersing agent for inorganic sun filters and pigments. It is an ideal alternative to MCTs that are typically derived from palm.

SustOleo DCS
INCI:  Dicapryl succinate
Use Levels: Formula dependent
Applications: Lotions, creams, butter, cleansing oils, serums, foundations and other color cosmetics.
Comments: SustOleo DCS is a palm-free, 100% natural emollient and slip agent with light cushion and silky after feel. It is a hydrolytically stable, light emollient derived from natural sources and is ideal for improving aesthetics of formulations. SustOleo DCS is an excellent solubilizer for sun filters and dispersing agent for pigments and inorganic filters. Ecocertified and readily biodegradable, SustOleo DCS can be used to reduce the greasiness of oils and is an ideal alternative to palm derived emollients.

SustOleo TBS
INCI: Tristearin (and) tribehenin
Use Levels: Formula dependent
Applications: Lotions, creams, butter, cleansing oils, serums, foundations and other color cosmetics.
Comments: SustOleo TSB is a palm-free, natural solid emollient that provides unique textures and sensorial properties. It is a non-greasy, semi-solid with a luxurious feel that stabilizes w/o and o/w emulsions. In lipsticks and other anhydrous products, SustOleo TSB reduces sweating and drag while providing an easy pay-off and silky feel to formulations. 

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Kobo Products, Inc.
Tel: 908-941-3402
Email: gdrost@koboproductsinc.com
Website:  www.koboproducts.com

SESQ-MH5
INCI: Polymethylsilsesquioxane (and) silica
Applications:  Emulsions, gels
Use levels: 1-10%
Comments: This hydrophilic silicone microsphere is used in the water phase to impart a smooth, silky feel upon application. It helps to achieve good payoff and soft focus effect in skin care formulas. 

CES-1104
INCI: Dimethicone (and) water (aqua) (and) glycerin (and) pentylene glycol (and) dimethicone/vinyl dimethicone crosspolymer (and) amodimethicone (and) carbomer (and) phenoxyethanol (and) sodium hydroxide (and) disodium edta
Applications:  Emulsions, gels
Use levels:  1-50%
Comments:  Nusil’s CES-1104 is an encapsulated hydrophilic elastomer gel that can be added to the water phase or post emulsification. Upon application, the encapsulated CES materials break and offer an initial refreshing feel that is followed by a velvety silicone release.

Purecork (B 500, B 1000)
INCI: Quercus Suber Bark
Applications:  Emulsions, gels, hot pours
Use levels:  1-10%
Comments:  Cork is a 100% natural and sustainable material harvested from trees every nine years.  This effective, lightweight exfoliator is less abrasive compared to other natural exfoliators such as minerals and seeds. Purecork B 500 (.5mm) is recommended for facial exfoliation and Purecork B 1000 (1mm) for body exfoliation products.

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Mibelle Biochemistry
Buchs / Switzerland
Tel: +41 62 836 17 31
Email: info@mibellebiochemistry.com
Website: www.mibellebiochemistry.com

vin-uplift
INCI: Wine (and) caesalpinia spinosa gum (and) maltodextrin (and) aqua/water
Use Levels: 0.5–2%
Applications: Formulations with an immediate hydration, smoothing and lifting effect.
Comments: The Vin-upLift rapid skin lifting system is powered by a unique fusion of exclusive Swiss ice wine and the moisture binding skeleton of Caesalpinia spinosa polysaccharides.

CM-Glucan Forte
INCI: Magnesium carboxymethyl beta-glucan
Use Levels: 0.02-0.1%
Applications: Irritated skin & scalp, skin prone to atopic conditions, sensitive skin care
Comments: CM-Glucan Forte is a special beta glucan from baker’s yeast. This single molecule product is designed to rebalance the immune system, soothe irritations and strengthen the skin barrier.

PhytocelLtec Nunatak
INCI: Saponaria pumila callus culture extract (and) isomalt (and) lecithin (and) aqua/water
Suggested Use Levels: 0.4–1%
Applications: Stem cell cosmetics, anti-aging, firming and collagen boosting formulations
Comments: PhytoCellTec nunatak is based on stem cells, which come from the high alpine plant Saponaria pumila. This flower survived the last ice age. Its distinctive survival characteristics are preserved in their stem cells and are now available for skin care.

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Penreco
Karns City, PA
Tel: 724-756-0110
Email: penreco@clmt.com
Website: www.penreco.com

Versagel SQ
INCI: Squalane (and) ethylene/propylene/styrene copolymer ( and) butylene/ethylene/styrene copolymer (and) pentaerythrityl Tetra-di-t-butyl  hydroxyhydrocinnamate
Applications:  Hair/beard conditioning
Comments: Versagel SQ is a gelled squalane product and is a great additive or substitute in both oil-based formulas and emulsions. It is a high quality replacement for shark and olive squalene and derived from plant sugar, Ecocert-approved and readily biodegradable. It works well in skin care, sun care and baby care.

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Seiwa Kasei Co., Ltd.
Higashiosaka, Osaka
Tel: +81-72-987-2626
Email: sales@seiwakasei.co.jp
Website: www.seiwakasei.jp/en

Amitose R
INCI: Dihydroxypropyl arginine HCl
Use Levels: 1%
Applications: Face wash, facial cleaner, skin toner, shampoo, hair conditioner
Comments: Amitose R is a novel glycerin derivative produced by binding glycerin and arginine using proprietary technology. The moisturizing effect derived from the glycerin structure and the adsorption property from the arginine structure help both skin and hair.

Amitose 3GA
INCI: 3-glyceryl ascorbate, glycerin
Suggested Use Levels: 3%
Applications: Serum, skin toner, cream, gel
Comments: Amitose 3GA is a special vitamin C derivative that enables to approach “anti-aging” from various angles: anti-wrinkle effect, suppression of inflammation, improvement of elasticity and luminosity etc. In addition, it is suitable to develop anti-aging emulsion and gel products containing vitamin C.

Amitose MGA
INCI: Myristyl 3-glyceryl ascorbate, butylene glycol
Use Levels: 1-3%
Applications: “VC-emulsifying” cream, gel
Comments: Amitose MGA is a unique vitamin C derivative having oil-in-water emulsifying ability that other vitamin C derivatives do not have. Amitose MGA enables formulators to develop innovative high-class cosmetics such as cream formulations made from only cosmetic active agents. It has anti-acne efficacy and excellent lightening effect.

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Silab
Brive, France
Tel: +33 (0)5 55 84 58 40
Email: silab@silab.fr
Website: www.silab.fr

Eternaline
INCI: Helichrysum stoechas extract
Use Levels: 1-3%
Applications: Anti-aging regenerative day/night skin care
Comments: Rich in oligosaccharides from common shrubby everlasting, Eternaline regenerates the extracellular matrix by stimulating the synthesis of periostin, which slows down over time. The structure of collagen fibers is regenerated and dermal tissue is consolidated. The skin regains firmness and tone, wrinkles are reduced and the oval face is strengthened.

Mitokinyl
INCI: Yeast extract
Use Levels: 1-3%
Applications: Anti-pollution facial and body skin care
Comments: Rich in glucomannans from the yeast Pichia heedii, Mitokinyl protects fragile skin against urban stresses. By regulating the synthesis of mitokines and the deactivation of AhR, major biological pathways identified in the fight against pollution, it allows the skin to recover an effective functional barrier.

Filmexel
INCI: Kappaphycus alvarezii extract & Caesalpinia spinosa fruit extract
Use Levels: 0.5-1% (substrate-free and preservative-free powder)
Applications: Skin care, makeup, hygiene, toiletries
Comments: Designed from a unique technology, Filmexel is a second skin natural biopolymer that has many properties. As a film-forming ingredient, it protects the skin from harmful exogenous agents. Genuine tensor since the first application, its smoothing and anti-wrinkle effects are proven in various formulas, at different doses and with Caucasian and Asian volunteer panels.

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Sonneborn
Parsippany, NJ
Tel: 201-760-2949
Email: Maureen.iannucci@sonneborn.com
Website: www.sonneborn.com

Shea XP Active Base Emollient
INCI:  Petrolatum USP and butyrospermum parkii (shea) butter
Use Levels: 2-100%
Applications: Skin care, body creams and lotions, lip products, hair, rinse-off applications, ointments and color cosmetics
Comments: Shea XP Active Base Emollient is a unique biofunctional petrolatum made with AAK Shea Technology. The synergistic nature of Shea XP launches a new active base emollient with highly protective bio improvement benefits. Shea XP delivers the trusted protection of petrolatum with the known functionality of shea butter. This patent-pending technology delivers active base emollient performance in a rheologically stable system for superior performance in a wide range of markets.
 

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TC USA Inc.
Toronto, Ontario, Canada
Tel: 800-915-0066
Email: Samples@tc-usa.com
Website: www.TC-USA.com

Essachem SM
INCI: Water, octyldodecyl olivate, glycerin, propanediol, cocos nucifera (coconut) water, lecithin, cocos nucifera (coconut) fruit juice, glyceryl caprylate, glyceryl undecylenate, sodium benzoate, citric acid
Use Levels: 8.00-20.00%
Applications: Cold process emulsions, hydrogels and low viscosity spray formulations.
Comments: The Essachem SM is a low viscosity, low particle size spray milk that contains 40% of a Natural Sensory Complex derived from olive seed. It is ideal for cold process emulsions, low viscosity spray formulations and hydrogel formulations that require a soft silky spread. The Essachem SM low particle size, Natural Sensory Complex, will aid in delivering the target sensory from the water phase of the formulation.

Zeniveg     
INCI: Octyl dodecanol, euphorbia cerifera (candelilla) wax, stearyl behenate, polyhydroxystearic acid, behenic acid, cetyl stearate, stearyl stearate
Use Levels: 1.0-10.0%
Applications:  Moisturizers, lotions, ointments and balms, sunscreen lotions and after sun moisturizers, pomades, conditioners and styling products, color cosmetics including lipsticks, mascaras, foundations and pencils and cuticle care products
Comments: Zeniveg is a soft and creamy all-vegetable moisturizer, providing superb barrier and moisturizing qualities without the greasiness of conventional butters. It has great skin feel, and starts melting at skin temperature giving it good transition and play time. Zeniveg offers outstanding formulation flexibility in high water containing skin care emulsions, from light daily lotions to heavy moisturizing body butters.

TI-NatSurf QCB
INCI: Water, cocamidopropyl hydroxysultaine, myristamine oxide, caprylyl/capryl glucoside, decyl  glucoside
Use Levels:  25-50%
Applications: Functionally targeted additive for skin cleansing applications.
Comments: TI-NatSurf QCB provides enhanced performance with excellent hydrophobe compatibility in skin cleansing systems. It has superb fragrance solubilizing properties in clear systems, without compromising foam and viscosity of the formulations. TI-NatSurf also provides enhanced performance in replacement of secondary surfactants in traditional sulfated systems.

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TRI-K Industries
Denville, NJ
Tel: 973-298-8850
Email: info@tri-k.com
Website: www.tri-k.com

Fision Wrinklefix
INCI: Water, hydrolyzed rice protein, hydrolyzed pea protein, glycine, proline, hydrolyzed sodium hyaluronate
Use Levels: 1-3%
Applications: Face and eye creams, serums & masks
Comments: Introducing Fision WrinkleFix, a superior multi-active complex to target deep wrinkles and age spots.  Through in vivo tests, this product was shown to minimize the appearance of wrinkles, improve cell vitality and stimulate hyaluronic acid production.

Fision Instant Lift
INCI: Water, hydrolyzed soy protein, acacia senegal gum, xanthan gum
Use Levels: 3-5%
Applications: Face & eye lifting serums, gel masks, body firming creams
Comments: A natural, non-GMO, water soluble and easy to use solution creates a lightweight film that tightens for immediate skin firming to minimize the appearance of wrinkles and fine lines. Consumer evaluations confirm that after only one application, Fision Instant Lift leaves skin firmer, younger-looking and more radiant than both the placebo and baseline. It is ideal to create smooth skin for a photoshopped appearance or use as a #NoMakeupMakeup look.

PhytoVie Defense
INCI: Brassica campestris/aleurites fordi oil copolymer
Use Levels: 1-3%
Applications: Skin protecting serums and creams, face and body primers, moisturizing creams, BB/CC products
Comments: A biodegradable, botanical based polymer made from tung (China wood) and rapeseed oils, PhytoVie Defense forms a flexible and uniform film on the skin for even coverage that has the power to stay on skin longer, delivering superior protection from damage.  In a clinical anti-pollution study, treatment with PhytoVie Defense showed a 32% improvement in protection from microparticles. 

Happi’s Anti-Aging Conference Is the Source for Skin Care Innovation • Looking for the latest developments in serums, sprays, salves and sheet masks? Happi’s Anti-Aging Conference & Tabletop Exhibition returns to the Hyatt Regency in New Brunswick, NJ on Sept. 20-21, 2016. This informative conference will cover key topics delivered by industry leaders, along with a tabletop exhibition featuring leading suppliers to the multibillion-dollar anti-aging segment. “During the past decade, the anti-aging category has been crowded with technologies that don’t always deliver on their promises.  Our conference will remove the confusion surrounding this multibillion dollar category and parse the conflicting efficacy messages to reveal what’s worth the investment and what’s not,” said Conference Chairman Navin Geria. In the speaker lineup, boldface names include Dr. Robb Akridge of Clarisonic, Mark Steele of Neostrata, Jennifer Stansbury of The Benchmarking Company and keynote Dr. Joseph Schwarz of McGill University, among other regulators, tastemakers and leading dermatologists. More info: http://conference.happi.com/