What does it take to build a great skin care product? Experts from inside the lab know that it takes more than a lone ingredient, no matter how special or buzzworthy that material may be. In fact, one formulation expert likened it to the difference between a single instrument and an orchestra.

A violin solo can be wonderful, but you will never have the rich sounds of a symphony without accompanying players, Ida Wong, vice president global product development at Clinique, told Happi during a discussion about the key ingredients in its new anti-aging serum.

Yet, consumers are interested in those individual ingredients and what they can do for their skin. According to a Spate ingredients report released earlier this year, top trending ingredients in skin care in 2020 included retinol, vitamin C, hyaluronic acid, BHA, salicylic acid, niacinamide, glycolic acid and AHA.

These materials are a big part of the narrative in today’s rebounding skin care market. Second quarter prestige skin care sales in the US soared 32% over Q2 2020 to $1.5 billion, according to NPD Group. And facial skin care in particular—driven primarily by face serums and exfoliators—was up over 2020 and 2019.


NPD Never Sleeps

Even when sales dip, formulators never let up on new product development. Cosmetic chemists continue to evaluate new components to improve efficacy and tweak formulations to meet evolving consumer demands.

At Lubriderm, for example, chemists have created new fragrance-free versions of the J&J brand’s popular Advanced Therapy Moisturizing Cream and Lotion products.

“We wanted to meet the needs of consumers who are looking for fragrance-free solutions. Not only do consumers now have the option between a light-fragrance or fragrance-free version, but they also have the option between a lotion and cream formula depending on their preferred texture, usage and application,” Kathleen Spisak, senior scientist, told Happi.

The ingredients behind the new fragrance-free launches include glycerin, caprylic/capric triglycerides and dimethicone, moisturizing ingredients that help keep skin soft and smooth. Both the fragrance-free Advanced Therapy Moisturizing Cream and Lotion are also infused with vitamin E, pro-vitamin B5 and lipids. Lubriderm Advanced Therapy Moisturizing Cream also contains linum usitatissimum (linseed) seed oil, a skin conditioning agent and significant source of omega-3 fatty acid, which is known to play a critical role in normal skin health and appearance.  It is an ingredient particularly suited for rich, creamy formulations, noted Spisak.

As a heritage brand known for gentle formulations, ingredient safety is paramount.

“Every Lubriderm formula is tested by Johnson & Johnson R&D experts to ensure that we’re delivering effective moisturizing solutions for consumers to help relieve their dry skin. Not only are glycerin, caprylic/capric triglycerides and dimethicone safe and long-tested moisturizing ingredients, but when combined together, the formulas are clinically proven to provide 24-hour moisturization and help relieve extra-dry skin,” Spisak said.

Vitamin C Gets an A

The COVID-19 pandemic shifted consumer buying and usage habits across a range of areas, including skin care. According to the data from a survey released by No7, women who invested time into making their skin look healthy during quarantine feel happier about their skin now compared to pre-pandemic.

The brand’s survey, which was conducted with Toluna and included women between the ages of 25-70, showed that vitamin C and hyaluronic acid are two ingredients most women claim to have tried than all others, and they contend these ingredients show the most visible improvements on their skin.

These components can be found in No 7’s Lift & Luminate Triple Action Serum, which is formulated with hyaluronic acid, Matrixyl 3000+ and vitamin C to target the three key signs of aging—lack of firmness, wrinkles and dark spots.

Many skin care brands build their reputation around exclusive ingredients. Algenist, for example, has an ingredient portfolio that includes patented alguronic acid,  non-GMO microalgae oil, green-algae encapsulated vegan retinol, algae-derived prebiotic, an active vegan collagen that mimics animal collagen, and its newest material—Blue Algae Vitamin C, which can be found its Blue Algae Vitamin C Skinclarity Brightening Serum.

The brand’s proprietary blue algae vitamin C is a potent source of pure ascorbic acid from spirulina that works to enhance brightness and luminosity, even skin tone, smooth texture and help improve the visible signs of photoaging for overall improved skin clarity. Algenist Blue Algae Vitamin C Skin Clarity Serum also contains the company’s patented alguronic acid that visibly targets fine lines and wrinkles; a “skin-forward” marine ferment to help smooth texture; and a triple-action moisturizing complex to help maintain skin’s moisture levels.

Leading mass market skin care franchise Olay—which just marked its 69th birthday—rolled out Olay Regenerist Vitamin C + Peptide 24 collection. It is designed to brighten dull skin, even tone and correct discoloration. The range has been formulated with a combination of vitamin C, niacinamide, palmitoyl pentapeptide and AHA lactic acid. Olay’s scientists worked through 100 formulations and 10 rounds of consumer testing to strike the right balance between potency, formula stability and “in-use delight,” according to P&G. The range includes brightening cleanser, serum, eye cream and moisturizer.

Mario Badescu rolled out Drying Patch, a daytime counterpart to its iconic nighttime drying lotion. The new spot treatment helps to flatten and dry up surface blemishes effectively and quickly while soothing skin. It has a proprietary blend of salicylic acid, niacinamide, hyaluronic acid, vitamin C, sodium hyaluronate and tea tree oil to reduce blemishes, balance and hydrate skin, and reduce inflammation. In other new product news, Mario Badescu’s Coconut Body Scrub includes niacinamide, salicylic acid, rosehip oil, vitamin E, meadow seed foam oil and six different sized beads that work together in a light gel base to gently scrub away rough and dry areas. This month, the brand adds a facial spray that contains hyaluronic acid, adaptogens, niacinamide and aloe vera.

Bliss has launched into Target stores its micro-purifying toner called Disappearing Act. The formula, which tightens to further shrink the look of pores, contains Niacinamide PC to help strengthen skin’s barrier for a smoother texture. It also contains Pore Vanish Complex, a blend of mushroom extract, rose canina extract and green tea extract. Disappearing Act joins Clear Genius toner and serum, which features the brand’s proprietary Clarity 5 Complex (a blend of salicylic acid, witch hazel, niacinamide, zinc PCA and cica).


Retinol Remedies

At Clinique, Smart Clinical Repair Wrinkle Correcting Serum is billed as the brand’s most advanced anti-aging serum yet—but this venerable brand remains true to its roots, according to executives.

“When we launched in 1968, we were bringing the expertise of dermatologists to the masses. We have always reflected back to that pillar. With our new anti-aging serum, we took the same approach,” Wong told Happi.

According to Wong, Clinique’s team calibrated and coupled high percentage collagen-boosting ingredients to maximize power, but balanced that high-efficacy with gentleness to create a “holistic treatment.” The serum, she said, addresses the different pain points with aging skin across a range of skin tones—from multi-degree lines and wrinkles to sagging.

The formulation contains CL1870 Laser Focus Complex, a blend of peptides, collagen-building and soothing ingredients to help visibly repair multi-degree lines and wrinkles by providing support to the skin against lines, according to the company. Specifically, the complex features neuro peptide acetyl hexapeptide which helps to increase natural collagen production resulting in the reduced appearance of expression lines; palmitoyl tripeptide-1/palmitoyl tetrapeptide-7, which work synergistically to help boost natural collagen production; whey protein; caffeine, an anti-irritant; algae extract and sodium hyaluronate.

Further, the serum contains what Clinique is calling a “next generation” retinoid, hydroxpinacolone retinoate, a derivative of retinol that helps to rejuvenate skin by encouraging natural cell renewal for a smoother, refined surface and less visible lines in skin. Clinique says it is gentle enough for twice daily use.

According to Spate, searches for retinol spiked in May 2020. It is a powerhouse material beloved by dermatologists and chemists for its efficacy, but brands continue to explore how to best reap all of the benefits that this ingredient has to offer, but with fewer side effects.

StriVectin is rolling out Advanced Retinol Nightly Renewal Moisturizer. The formulation contains retinol and retinal (retinaldehyde). This vitamin A derivative is described as a close pre-cursor to retinoic acid, making it one of the most potent forms of retinol available, according to the company.

Through an optimized surface release system that StriVectin says is more effective than encapsulation, retinol and retinal are embedded into micro-sponges delivering stable forms of retinol and retinal more evenly and continuously onto skin. According to the brand, panelists showed visible improvement in fine lines, wrinkles, texture, radiance (evaluated by an expert clinical grader) after four weeks of nightly use and enlarged pores after eight weeks of nightly use. The formula improved firmness and elasticity, as measured by instrumental testing after four weeks of use.

Active retinol is a favorite of Dr. Zenovia Gabriel, MD, FAAD.

“The issue with retinol is that it involves a very complicated degradation process in our cells. The retinoic receptor is in the cell’s nucleus. Meaning, the retinol needs to bypass the cell membrane and nuclear membrane to get inside the nucleus. Many retinols on the market are named retinol, but aren’t actually being delivered in the tissue,” she said.

Gabriel said her team has developed an over-the-counter retinol that “isn’t as strong as prescription retinol but can still get delivered in a stable form, past those membranes to the nucleus.” For Dr. Zenovia’s Advanced Retinol Night Repair Treatment, the brand created a micro polymer system that encases its All-Trans-Retinol Technology inside. “This gives the retinol greater absorption so that it goes past the skin barrier, into the tissue, and is absorbed in a stable form. The micro polymer system also allows for a slow, timed release of the retinoic acid into the tissue,” she insisted.


Addressing the Microbiome

The microbiome is another area of focus among cosmetic chemists.

StriVectin has released Super-B Barrier Strengthening Oil, billed as a dual-focus treatment clinically proven to balance skin’s microbiome and strengthen skin’s barrier to target visible signs of aging and dry, dull, cranky skin. It features StriVectin’s barrier-strengthening NIA-114 (its patented form of niacin/vitamin B3) and a prebiotic bacillus ferment blend to help support bacterial diversity and balance skin’s microbiome. Sourced from French hot springs in the volcanic region of Auvergne, this first-of-its-kind, oil-based prebiotic complex combines fatty acids extracted from bacteria with jojoba and oat oil to help support bacterial diversity and balance skin’s microbiome, according to StriVectin.

Elizabeth Grant has tapped into probiotics with its new Probiotic w. Yoghurt 24HR Eye Cream and Face Cream. Both are formulated with natural yogurt protein and fermented honey from the rare Black Bee. The treatments also contain cucumber extract to help refresh and calm skin; wild yam to help promote skin cell turnover; and Torricelumn—the brand’s proprietary anti-aging ingredient compound.

Outside of facial care, SweetSpot Labs’ new Microbiome Balancing Creamy Full Body Cleanser is a full body use product specifically formulated for vulvar skin that is prone to bacterial or yeast imbalances. The cleanser helps to keep skin prone to yeast imbalances such as fungal folliculitis, vulvar candida or under-breast rashes in a state of balance. The formulation is free from known malassezia (yeast) triggers to help prevent the flare cycle of pityrosporum folliculitis.

“Microbiome Balancing Cleanser by SweetSpot Labs is specifically formulated to support healthy, balanced levels of the bacteria, and fungi/yeast that make up the skin microbiome. Though usually harmless, when these microorganisms become overgrown (due to a number of contributing factors), it can lead to problematic skin conditions such as folliculitis. That’s where the clean, vegan, non-irritating ingredients in this cleanser come into play,” said Julie Chamberlain, SweetSpot Labs general manager. “Green tea seed and leaf extracts, plus clinically active levels of antimicrobial peptides like bioecolia and powerful prebiotics from a highly purified form of chicory root extract, help bring the skin into a balanced state of wellness—supporting good bacteria while helping to inhibit overgrowth of fungi/yeast such as candida albicans and malassezia.”


Fruits & Vegetables of Their Labor

Last month, Korres added a star ingredient into its lineup: Santorini grape. The brand’s new Santorini Grape Velvet Skin Drink is described as multi-tasking treatment designed to leave skin feeling ultra-velvety soft, blurring imperfections while replenishing hydration. The formulation contains Santorini grape extract, Santorini grape seed oil, and resveratrol. According to Korres, one bottle of Santorini Grape Velvet Skin Drink equals the antioxidant power of 170 glasses of wine.

Herb + Flora, a skin care line founded by French triathlete and cosmetic industry veteran Marie-Pierre Stark-Flora, marries her passion for sports with her love of science and clean beauty. Described as a “skin-fitness” line, it helps mimic the anti-aging effects of exercise on the skin via three products: autophagy-inducing topicals (The Potion Youth Recovery Serum and Eye of the Cyclops Recovery Eye Gel), ingestibles and a silk pillowcase woven with copper threads.

The brand has an exclusive partnership with Dr. Mark Tarnopolsky, MD, PhD, professor of pediatrics and medicine, CEO and CSO of Exerkine Corp. and director of the Neuromuscular and Neurometabolic Clinic at McMaster University Medical Center in Hamilton, Ontario, Canada.

According to Stark-Flora, who worked for L’Oréal, Estée Lauder and Coty, clinical research conducted by Tarnopolsky, and his team at McMaster demonstrated that regular exercise helps improve mitochondrial health, activate autophagy and lower oxidative stress. Thus, exercise has an anti-aging effect on skin.

Based on this knowledge of exercise science, Stark-Flora used “clean and vegan ingredients proven by in vivo testing,” to create a proprietary blend, the Exercise Mimic Youth Complex.

“(It) is a ground-breaking combination of actives that helps reproduce the anti-aging effects of exercise and unlock the life energy of skin,” she told Happi.

Exercise Mimic Youth Complex contains five ingredients. They are: organic certified asparagus extract, which helps stimulate skin’s own autophagy capabilities and improve collagen density; macroalgae, which provides an immediate and long-term antioxidant benefit to protect the epidermis from environmental damage and is believed to help maintain mitochondrial health; hyaluronic acid; and astaxanthin, a microalgae with powerful antioxidant properties that helps reduce the look of fine lines and wrinkles and brighten. Eye of the Cyclops Recovery Gel also contains Eyeliss, mango butter, coconut oil, yarrow, wild sunflower, arnica and mallow. Additional ingredients in The Potion are AHA, PHA, magnesium, aloe leaf juice and chamomile extract.


Launch Pad

Skin care brands continue to develop formulations designed to address overall skin health as well as trouble spots like the eye area.

In July, Perricone MD rolled out High Potency Growth Factor Firming & Lifting Eye Serum, a follow up to High Potency Growth Factor Firming & Lifting Serum for the face, which bowed in 2019. The eye serum contains three key ingredients: Polyamine Growth Factor, which is proprietary to Perricone MD and helps deliver a visible dramatic lifting effect around the eye area for a firmer, more youthful-looking appearance; DMAE, which helps visibly lift sagging skin over time, plumping skin to support its surface and protect against drying environmental aggressors; and niacinamide, which renews and restores the skin by improving uneven skin tone and brightening dull skin by supporting the skin’s moisture barrier.

In clinical and consumer testing, 94% of participants saw fewer crow’s feet, lines and wrinkles; 88% saw less puffiness and 80% saw less sagging, according to Perricone MD.

For the neck, Theraderm Eternox Peptide Crème, available from Therapon Skin Health, is designed to decrease the appearance of lax neck skin and reduce forehead wrinkles and other facial lines while moisturizing.

James Beckman, MD, plastic surgeon, biochemist and founder of Therapon Skin Health, told Happi that his team has seen “incredible anti-aging results from using our exclusive formulation of soluble keratin peptides in topical formulations to actively provide ten times quicker repair of damaged collagen.”

In addition, Beckman recently began using β-Glucans in a new product for sensitive or compromised skin that gives unmatched results for atopic dermatitis and other chronic skin irritation conditions in only days.

“The incredible, proven science shows the ingredient to be a multifunctional modulator of wound healing. We expect this factor alone to be invaluable in the healing of deeper skin peels and true repairs of epidermal skin injury from sunburns. Its ability to reverse the aging changes already in skin are causing this formulation to become a major player in our aesthetic product category as well,” Beckman told Happi.

Researchers at L’Oréal-owned CeraVe continue to look at the role of ceramides in healthy skin. According to insights from a peer-reviewed publication featured in the Journal of Drugs in Dermatology (Efficacy of Ceramide-Containing Formulations on UV-Induced Skin Surface Barrier Alterations), a skin care regimen that includes a moisturizer and sunscreen formulated with ceramides can help protect against UV-induced skin barrier damage and improve skin barrier health overall against chronic sun exposure. 

The authors—Hawasatu Dumbuya PhD, Xi Yan MD PhD, Ying Chen PhD, Janet Wangari-Olivero PhD, Stephen Lynch PhD, Patricia Brieva PhD, Qian Zheng MD PhD, and Charbel Bouez PhD from L’Oréal Research and Innovation, Clark, NJ—evaluated the impact of UV exposure on the skin barrier using a UV dose equivalent to about two hours of UV exposure during a sunny July day in New York City. They evaluated untreated, non-UV exposed skin; untreated, UV-exposed skin and UV-exposed skin treated with a ceramide-containing sunscreen and moisturizer from CeraVe. Researchers found that skin barrier cells from the UV-exposed, untreated zone were significantly damaged.

However, skin barrier cells from UV-exposed skin treated with ceramide-containing sunscreen and moisturizer were preserved and mimicked the skin barrier cells that were unexposed to UV—underscoring the importance of a ceramide-containing skin care routine, according to the company.

UV-induced skin barrier damage may contribute to barrier-compromised skin conditions like eczema. The L’Oréal brand has been expanding its roster with products like CeraVe Hydrating Mineral Sunscreen SPF 30 Sheer Tint, which combines the crucial ingredients of ceramides with a subtly tinted, broad-spectrum formula that was developed with input from dermatologists.

In addition to sunscreen and moisturizers, CeraVe offers a variety of skin care products that contain ceramides 1, 3 and 6-II, which are essential to restoring and maintaining the skin’s natural barrier. CeraVe products utilize patented Multi Vesicular Emulsion (MVE) technology, which releases key ingredients into the skin over 24 hours, allowing them to absorb into the skin to repair, restore and retain the skin’s natural barrier.


Ingredient Exploration

Formulators continue to explore newer materials, such as CBD, which has caught the attention of many in skin care, including Julius Few, MD, a plastic surgeon and founder of The Few Institute.

“Cannabinoids are proven to have an anti-inflammatory effect on the skin, which can help reduce inflammation, redness and even irritation from skin conditions that inflame the skin. CBD, cannabidiol, alone has shown immense promise in cosmetic medicine, when it’s incorporated properly and with synergistic ingredients,” he told Happi.

Few’s skin care line, Aforé Beauty, features CBD as well as green tea polyphenols and caffeine for their anti-inflammatory and antioxidant properties.

“I think anti-inflammatory skin care should be a staple of any skin care regimen,” Few said. “CBD is anti-inflammatory and pro-healing in nature. I believe that the anti-inflammatory and antioxidant properties provided by CBD are an essential component of protecting the skin and contribute to the graceful aging of any skin type.”

Few told Happi his team has had great success with its first CBD product, Aforé CBD Effusive.

“This facial mist uses 100 milligrams of a water-soluble CBD nano-emulsion, providing a more potent CBD formula that delivers its active ingredients more effectively,” Few said. CBD’s natural anti-inflammatory properties work in concert with green tea, vitamin C and witch hazel to calm and cool the skin. Few contends it can be used after a workout, throughout the work day, and after sun exposure to help reduce redness and inflammation, calm skin and provide an instant glow. In addition, with its calming gender-neutral scents, clients are spritzing their pillow before they go to bed at night.

Nutritional supplement company Sovereign Laboratories launched a topical skin care line that utilizes Colostrum-LD, which contains regenerating bioactives that support natural skin health, including epithelial and epidermal growth factors that are said to promote the rapid replacement of skin cells. In a study published in the May issue of Journal on Drugs in Dermatology, liposomal bovine colostrum appears to provide a protective effect on telomere length erosion, according to Sovereign Laboratories.

The Cottonwood, AZ-based company’s range includes Regenacol Telomere AGE Defiance Serum with Colostrum-LD, a lightweight serum developed with plant-derived bioactives and Colostrum-LD growth factors; Regenacol Bee Venom Moisturizing Cream with Colostrum-LD, which harnesses the most active ingredient in bee venom (melittin); and Regenacol Colostrum-LD Concentrated Revitalizing Face Mask, a concentrated facial sheet mask that also contains co-enzyme Q-10, beta glucan, gold kiwi extract and Oligo Fucoidan FucoSkin.

For DefenAge Skincare CEO Nikolay Turovets, PhD, a must-have ingredient is defensin-molecules that naturally awaken dormant skin cells and spark a wound-healing response to create new skin.

“Over seven years of using defensins, we also found that they work extremely well with other proven ingredients in skin care, multiplying effects of each other. Specifically, we tend to combine defensin-molecules with niacinamide, which provides multiple benefits for the skin, and Sea Whip, a very efficient anti-inflammatory ingredient from the sea. In addition, we always have an advanced blend of the antioxidants present in all the creams and serum,” he said.

According to Turovets, his rationale behind the composition of ingredients is that the mechanisms of action between them are entirely different.

“In other words, instead of doing the same thing or even competing with each other, these ingredients add functions that complement each other’s performance. For example, defensins create new and young skin cells and niacinamide stimulates these ‘young guys’ to work hard and produce enhanced results,” Turovets said.

DefenAge Skincare’s 8-in-1 BioSerum, 24/7 Barrier Balance Cream, 6-Week Perfection Neck Cream, and 10 Luxe Hand & Body Cream—which debuts this month—contain his hero blend of ingredients.

As consumers and the skin care category make up for time lost to the pandemic, cosmetic chemists are sure to be busy inside their labs working with hero ingredients and proprietary blends to maintain momentum.  


New Skin Care Ingredients

Looking for new ingredients for your next launch? Below is a list of what's new from a select group of industry suppliers. For more information on the materials listed, please contact the company directly.

• Acme-Hardesty           
Website: www.acme-hardesty.com
 
Matrilox CA-001M
INCI: Azelaic Acid
Percent Use: up to 10%
Applications: skin brightening, clear skin solutions, and acne
Description: Cosmetic-grade azelaic acid is an antibacterial dicarboxylic acid and anti-proliferative agent. This ingredient has anti-inflammation properties and applications in anti-aging formulation, hair growth stimulation, hyper-pigmentation reduction and clear skin solutions.
 
Citrue Bisabolol
INCI: Bisabolol
Percent Use: 0.1 to 1.0%
Applications: cosmetics, face and body, clean formulations, and natural formulations.
Description: Citrue Bisabolol is a 100% natural, and farnesol-free product proven to possess anti-irritant and anti-inflammatory properties. Free of any synthetic contaminants, this ingredient is widely used in personal care.  

 
• Ashland
Website: https://www.ashland.com/industries/personal-and-home-care
 
Antaron ECo gel
INCI: Diisopropyl Adipate and Ethylcellulose
Percent Use: 0.5-1%
Applications: skin and sun care creams, lotions, gels, mousses, balms, masks, sprays, sticks
Description: Vegan-suitable, biodegradable film former derived from sustainably sourced cellulose that provides excellent water resistance and creates lighter, non-greasy formulations.  Its translucent, easy-to-use gel format allows for quicker incorporation into formulations.
 
Lubrajel Oil PF hydrogel
INCI: Glycerin (and) Glyceryl Acrylate/Acrylic Acid Copolymer (and) PVM/MA Copolymer
Percent Use: 5% (or greater to preference)
Applications: Creams, lotions, gels, face masks, shaving products, sun care, foundations, BB creams, essences, toners, micellar water
Description: A nature-derived (>95.5% per ISO 16128-2:2017), biodegradable moisturizer that provides hydration, high slip and a light, dimethicone-like feel in a preservative-free hydrogel.  Vegan-suitable with high clarity and water soluble. 

• Biosil Technologies
Website: www.biosiltech.com
 
Ocea Health
INCI: Water, PADINA PAVONICA THALLUS EXTRACT, Bio-propanediol
Applications: IAnti-Age
Use Level: 3%
Attributes: Ocea Health is the first defensome enhancer tested on over 3300 genes
It delivers systemic protection and skin regeneration. Ocea Health strengthens the skin’s natural defensomes with improvements in: epidermal integrity, cell resilience, immune protection, inflammation and wound healing.
 
Scutaline
INCI: SCUTELLARIA BAICALENSIS ROOT EXTRACT
Applications: Anti-Age
Use Level: 1-2%
Attributes: Scutaline prevents the formation and spread of senescent cells (zombie cells) and combats “Inflamm’aging” (Chronic inflammation). It protects against the degradation of the extracellular matrix, improves moisturization and targets overwhelmed skin.
 
 
• BotanicalsPlus
Website: www.botanicalsplus.com
 
Legume FermBiotic G
INCI: Water (and) Galactomyces Ferment Filtrate (and) Hydrolyzed Cicer Seed Extract (and) Pueraria Lobata Root Extract (and) Medicago Sativa (Alfalfa) Extract 
Percent Use: 1-5%
Applications: all leave-on and rinse-off applications, including but not limited to; creams, lotions, serums, cleansers, masks
Description: Efficacy-proven, plant-based, fermented legume complex that boosts hydration while supporting skin microbiome wellness with the aid of pre- and postbiotics. Proven to increase Hyaluroniadase-1 (HAS1) expression by 71% (vs. the untreated control cells)
 
Adaptogen FermBiotic S
INCI: Water (and) Saccharomyces Ferment Lysate Filtrate (and) Centella Asiatica Flower/Leaf/Stem Extract (and) Beta Vulgaris (Beet) Root Extract (and) Tremella Fuciformis Extract 
Percent Use: 1-5%
Applications: all leave-on and rinse-off applications, including but not limited to; creams, lotions, serums, cleansers, masks
Description: Efficacy-proven, plant-based, fermented adaptogen complex that boosts natural collagen production while supporting skin microbiome wellness with the aid of Saccharomyces Cerevisiae. Proven to increase Type I Collagen expression in fibroblasts by 28% (vs. the untreated control cells)
 
 
• Centerchem, Inc.
Website: www.centerchem.com/products/personal-care/
 
Ethicskin
INCI: Propanediol,Glycerin, Heterotheca inuloides Flower Extract, Citric Acid
Percent Use: 2%
Applications: this isa multifunctional ingredient that can be used anywhere on the skin: creams, lotions, serums, mists, for full face, full body, eye care, decolletage
Description: 100% natural origin ingredient having multiple benefits for well-aging from increasing firmness and glow to reducing wrinkles and age spots.  It’s ethically and locally sourced, preserves biodiversity, and empowers communities.
 
HYA-ACT SERIES
INCI: HYA-ACT M & HYA-ACT S: Sodium Hyaluronate  
HYA-ACT XS: Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid
Percent Use: 0.01 – 1.0%
Applications: this is an ingredient that can be used anywhere on the skin: creams, lotions, serums, mists, for full face, full body, eye care, decolletage
Description: Various sizes of Hyaluronic Acid will immediately enhance skin hydration, strengthen and fortify the protective skin barrier, calm reddened skin, improve elasticity and reduce the appearance of wrinkles.
 
• DSM
Website: /www.dsm.com/corporate/markets/personal-care.html

HYA-ACT S (200-400 KDa)
INCI: Sodium Hyaluronate
Percent Use: 0.01-1.0%
Applications: Face, decolletage, and hands
Description: The hydration booster for thirsty skin. Microbiome-friendly, its small molecular weight fortifies skin’s natural barrier, locks in moisture and calms redness. Combined with HYA-ACT M an in-vivo study shows a 77% hydration boost.
 
HYA-ACT XS
Ingredient Name:  HYA-ACT XS (37-56 KDa)
INCI: Sodium Hyaluronate
Percent Use: 0.01-1.0%
Applications: Face, decolletage, and hands
DescriptionL: Skin‘s elasticity improves in just 15 days with HYA-ACT™ XS. This microbiome-friendly hyaluronic acid retains moisture from the inside, delivering a steady burst of intense hydration and plumping out fine wrinkles.
 
• Evonik
Website: evonik.com/personalcare
 
HYACARE Tremella
INCI: Tremella Fuciformis Sporocarp extract
Percent Use: 0.01% – 0.2%
Applications: Facial Moisturization, Anti-Aging Skin Care
Description: HYACARE Tremella is a natural hyaluronic acid mimetic with great moisturization and exceptional water retention properties. It also provides antioxidative and skin defense benefits to formulations.
 
TEGO Natural Amaranth
INCI: Amaranthus Caudatus Seed Extract
Percent Use: 0.01% – 100%
Applications: Facial skin care, body care
Description: TEGO Natural Amaranth Provides a unique lipid composition rich in natural squalene, for a smooth skin feel. It supports skin elasticity and prevention of photo-damage.


• Gattefossé
Website: www.gattefosse.com
 
EleVastin
INCI: Betaine/Water/Propanediol/Murraya Koenigii Stem Extract
Percent Use: 1%
Applications: EleVastin is intended for anti-aging ranges for mature skin, for treatments dedicated to the contours of the face or specific areas such as the neck and for all products wishing to offer a solution to age or gravity-induced skin sagging. 
Description: The targeted solution to gravity-induced skin sagging. This 100% natural origin active promotes elasticity and offers support to the skin. Facial contours are better defined, vertical wrinkles are reduced.

• Innospec Performance Chemicals
Website: innospec.com
 
InnoSil 915
INCI: Dimethicone (and) C11-13 Isoalkane
Percent Use:
Applications: skincare creams, lotions and color cosmetic
Description: InnoSil 915 is a balanced composition of polydimethylsiloxanes and isoalkanes with a slightly faster volatility curve than cyclopentasiloxane. When used as an emollient for skincare, InnoSil 915 offers excellent spreadability with a silky texture. 
 
 
• INOLEX
Website:  www.inolex.com
 
Spectrastat MHG Natural MB
INCI:  Caprylhydroxamic Acid (and) Methylheptylglycerin (and) Glycerin
Percent Use:  0.5 – 2.0% (w/w)
Applications: Cleansing compositions, emulsions, wipes or mask juices
Description: 100% natural and broad spectrum preservation effect at pH 4-8, cold processable with formulation clarity, and added benefit of non-silicone anti-soaping effect in emulsions. 
 
Lexgard Natural MHG MB
INCI:  Methylheptylglycerin
Percent Use:  0.5 – 2.0% (w/w)
Applications:  cleansing compositions, emulsions, wipes or mask juices
Description: 100% natural multi-benefit preservation enhancer, odor control agent, non-silicone anti-soaping ingredient, and COSMOS approved. 
 
 
• KLK OLEO
www.klkoleo.com
 
PALMESTER 1910 
INCI: Cetyl Ethylhexanoate
Percent Use: max 50% in leave-on application
Applications: Face cream, Face serum, Facial cleanser, Body lotion, Massage oil, Hand and Foot Cream, Make-up remover, Sun protection cream, Lipstick, Eye shadow, Liquid foundation, Mascara
Description: PALMESTER 1910 is a medium spreading emollient providing a light and non-greasy skin feel. The branched emollient ester softens, soothes, and lubricates the skin
giving a long lasting silky and velvety feel. 
 
PALMESTER 9200
INCI: Pentaerythrityl Tetraisostearate
Percent Use: max 50% in leave-on application
Applications: Lipstick, Eye shadow, Liquid foundation, Mascara, Face cream, Face serum, Facial cleanser, Body lotion, Hand and Foot Cream, Make-up remover, Sun Protection cream 
Description: PALMESTER 9200 offers rich emollience and lubricious skin feel. Exhibits excellent low-temperature properties and good oxidative stability. Provides high skin gloss and suitable to be used in long-lasting protective emulsions. 
 
• Lincoln MFG-USA
Website: https://lincolnmfg-usa.com/
 
Essynce OLS
INCI:  Citrus Sinensis (organic orange oil), Cymbopogon Flexuosus (organic lemongrass oil), Helianthus Annuus (organic sunflower oil), Processing aid – Alcohol denatured (organic ethyl) with Lavandula Angustifolia (organic lavender oil)
Percent Use: 1.5 – 2.5%
Description:  Essynce OLS is a preservative-free stabilizer against biologic degradation.  100% fragrance-free, it is rich with natural aromas of orange, lemongrass, and sunflower oil.  Best of all, this all-natural protectant is USDA-certified organic.
 
Essynce ST
INCI:  Organic spearmint oil, Organic tea tree oil
Percent Use: 1.00 – 2.0%
Description:  Essynce ST is a preservative-free stabilizer against biologic degradation.  100% fragrance-free, it is rich with natural aromas of spearmint and tea tree oil.  Best of all, this all-natural protectant 

• LipoTrue Inc
Website: https://lipotrue.com/
 
Silstem-U
INCI: Silybum Marianum Extract, Arctostaphylos Uva-Ursi Leaf Extract
Applications: body care, body positive, slimming, self-esteem, “orange peel” skin, cellulite, your shape 
Percent Use: 1-2%
Description: Green active ingredient that mimics the action of cold exposure or exercise conditions, in acting directly on naturally innervated adipose tissue. Silstem-U™ enhances the release of NRG4, an adipokine which activates lipolytic functions and improves adipose tissue innervation to induce a slimming effect and reduction of cellulite.
 
Col-Frag remastered
INCI: Collagen Amino Acids
Applications: collagen booster, lifting, brightness, reshaping face contour, wrinkle improvement, collagen builder, remastering collagen
Percent Use: 1-3%
Description: Col-Frag remastered is a plant-based fragment of human type I collagen transiently expressed through the Wild plants as biofactories technology. A remastered concept of classical collagen that never fails meeting the cosmetic market needs for a sustainable, animal friendly, and with a high efficacy active ingredient. 
 
• Mibelle Biochemistry
Website: www.mibellebiochemistry.com
 
MossCellTec Aloe
INCI: Xylitol (and) Caprylyl Glycol (and) Ketoglutaric Acid (and) Aqua / Water
Percent Use: 2%
Applications: Moisturizing formulas, balancing skin care, holistic well-being body and face treatments, healthy-aging applications, SPA, wellness, and forest-bathing concepts
Description: MossCellTec Aloe is produced by using Mibelle Biochemistry’s MossCellTec biotechnology. MossCellTec Aloe improves intercellular communication via gap junctions in the epidermis to synchronize the cell activities in the skin.


• MICRO POWDERS, INC.
Website:  MPIpersonalcare.com

• Naturebead Aqua R10
INCI:  Oryza sativa (Rice Bran) Wax and Tanacetum annum (Blue Tansy Oil)
Applications:  Cleansing lotions, creams, masks, and gels for face and body care
Comments/Description:  Naturebead Aqua R10 is a spherical exfoliating bead derived from Upcycled rice bran wax and blue tansy oil that has a natural aqua coloration provided by the rice bran wax and blue tansy oil itself, without added pigments.  The 10 mesh size and pleasing color provide effective exfoliation with an attractive visual cue.  The typical use level is 0.5-5.0%.

• Naturebead SeaFoam C10
INCI:  Copernicia cerifera (Carnauba) Wax and Tanacetum annum (Blue Tansy Oil)
Applications:  Cleansing lotions, creams, masks, and gels for face and body care
Comments/Description:  Naturebead SeaFoam C10 is a spherical exfoliating bead derived from carnauba wax and blue tansy oil that has a natural bluish green coloration provided by the carnauba and blue tansy oil itself, without added pigments.  The 10 mesh size and pleasing color provide effective exfoliation with an attractive visual cue.  The typical use level is 0.5-5.0%.is USDA-certified organic.

• SILAB
Website: www.silab.fr
 
PEPTILIUM
INCI: Vaccinium Macrocarpon (Cranberry) Fruit Extract
Percent Use: 0.5 to 2%
Applications: Anti-wrinkle, anti-aging
Description: Composed of natural biopeptides purified to 95%, obtained from the co-product of a superfruit, the cranberry, PEPTILIUM® is a natural global anti-aging active that boosts complexion radiance and attenuates wrinkles. 
 
EXFOLACTIVE
INCI: Hydrolyzed Opuntia ficus-indica Flower Extract
Percent Use: 2 to 4%
Applications: Exfoliant
Description: Obtained from nopal flowers, EXFOLACTIVE reactivates the endogenous processes of desquamation for a gentle and effective exfoliating action. The complexion is more radiant and uniform, and the skin is hydrated.
 
• Vantage Personal Care
Website: www.vantagegrp.com
 
Curoxyl 42
INCI: Water (and) Benzoyl Peroxide
Percent Use: Up to 10% Active Benzoyl Peroxide (USA)
Applications: Facial Cleansers
Description: Curoxyl 42 is a patented micronized Benzoyl Peroxide dispersion in the form of a non-hazardous gel. It is an effective replacement for traditional forms of BPO and is clinically proven to reduce acne lesions and dark spots.
 
Liponate Jojoba 20
INCI: Jojoba Esters 
Percent Use: 1-10%
Applications: All Skin Care Applications
Description: Liponate Jojoba 20 is a light emollient that transforms the sensorial profile of formulations to add softness, spreadability and a subtle thickness. When tested on damaged skin, Liponate Jojoba 20 restored hydration levels in only 4 hours!