The juxtaposition of biotechnology and natural ingredients is the norm at cosmetic industry trade shows. Formulators seek the best of both worlds and raw material suppliers are happy to oblige. That juxtaposition was evident at FCE Cosmetique 2024, which took place in June in São Paulo, alongside FCE Pharma. During FCE Week, the two events welcomed 21,575 attendees, who visited more than 600 exhibitors, representing the entire production chain of the pharmaceutical and cosmetic industries. Professionals from all over Brazil and other countries attended the fairs to discover the latest innovations, and to see what’s new in packaging, machinery, raw materials, technology and services.

DSM-Firmenich Honored

The Innovation Challenge Award was won by DSM-Firmenich’s Eterwell Youth. The active skin care ingredient is billed as a holistic solution for healthy skin, by eliminating senescent cells, also known as “zombie cells.” These cells no longer produce collagen and elastin, contributing to inflammation and premature aging. The results demonstrated a positive impact on skin texture, structure, elasticity and wrinkle appearance, reversing the skin’s appearance by six years (after two weeks) and nine years (after three months). The ingredient is 100% of natural origin and holds Cosmos, Natrue Organic and Fair for Life certifications.

Givaudan Active Beauty’s Silk-iCare came in second. This bioengineered silk forms a light, breathable film over the skin, protecting against aggressors like pollution, stimulating repair and healing, and reducing inflammation, according to the company.

Lipoid’s BakuLipid, a retinol alternative distributed by Lipid Ingredients, was third. It combines bakuchiol, a natural retinol analog, with unsaturated phospholipids to treat skin imperfections and signs of aging. Clinical studies demonstrate BakuLipid is effective in reducing wrinkles, acne and dark spots, with fewer side effects typically associated with retinol. With Cosmos and Natrue certifications, it is derived from the seeds of Psoralea corylifolia, a small subtropical medicinal herb.

Cutting-Edge Ingredients

Suppliers highlighted many innovative ingredients during FCE. Dinaco presented SupremeHyal Relift from TS-Biotech. It is produced through a patented biofermentation process that produces an advanced biolifting and toning system using full-spectrum hyaluronic acid. In addition to efficiently penetrating the skin, SupremeHyal Relift provides an immediate lifting sensation, reducing fine wrinkles and enhances skin firmness and elasticity, according to Dinaco.

Evonik highlighted Vecollage Fortify L, a vegan collagen said to be identical to human skin collagen. Produced through biofermentation processes, it offers dual benefits by strengthening collagen in the skin through the prevention of age-related degradation and stimulation of the skin’s own collagen production. Evonik calls it an ideal addition to anti-aging and moisturizing creams.

Gattefossé showcased a bioactive in the booth of its distributor Grupo MCassab. Eyeglorius treats dark circles and puffiness. Cosmos-certified and obtained from the upcycling of Hippophae rhamnoides leaves, it acts on microcirculation and excessive vascular permeability induced by inflammation, according to Gattefossé.

Fragrant Inspirations

Fragrances were in focus during FCE. Vollmens marked its 20th anniversary at the exhibition with fragrance launches inspired by resilience, prudence and confidence—essential emotions that will guide consumers’ decisions and choices. The fragrance Florescer da Coragem (Blooming Courage), inspired by Prudence, exudes serenity with lotus flower, peony and, especially, Immortelle petals, an immortal flower that does not wither even after harvest. In addition to this floral facet, the fragrance’s fresh and fruity opening and the creamy sandalwood, musk and amber background bring calmness and prudence to face adversity. 

Doce Adaptação (Sweet Adaptation), representing resilience, features floral nuances accompanied by the creaminess of peach and fresh notes of bergamot and apricot. The heart of the creation is the rose, symbolizing adaptation and persistence. Cashmere wood and cedar provide solidity and hope. An indulgent salted caramel, vanilla and beeswax reinforce one’s inner capacity to overcome challenges, according to the company. 

Tempestade de Inspiração (Storm of Inspiration), representing confidence, blends British determination with the exoticism of India, embodying the strength to stand firm amid life’s storms. With notes of black tea and cardamom, it brings a spicy seriousness, while cinnamon and nutmeg warm with confidence. Cashmere wood softens and smoky vetiver symbolizes strength. Amber notes and vanilla add depth and sweetness, giving touches of humanity, according to Vollmens.

Aromaty, another Brazilian fragrance company, showcased its Botanica Imperial line, a botanical concept that harkens the arrival of the royal family in Brazil. It emphasizes natural ingredients, especially citrus and aromatic notes. Additionally, the company presented a niche perfumery line aligned with the main global trends in the segment, adapted to the Brazilian olfactory taste. In celebration of the 150th anniversary of vanilla synthesis, Aromaty launched three compositions that are more mature and less oriented toward the gourmand facet: one vanilla with aquatic notes, another woodier, and a third with neroli and touches of saffron. The highlight was the Crown line, a conceptual collection inspired by the Portuguese court in Brazil. Empress Maria Leopoldina combines orange blossom and vanilla, and Queen Maria II features sandalwood and vanilla notes.

Wheaton is a leading supplier of glass packaging for the perfumery, cosmetics and pharmaceutical segments. During FCE, the Wheaton stand drew a crowd with its virtual reality demonstrations, new eco-friendly packaging and experiences involving sight, touch, smell and taste. Donning 4D glasses, participants could see the entire conceptualization of a perfume, from the briefing to the decoration of the perfume bottle. The glasses, created by Noar, enabled visitors to experience the fragrance through an exclusive digital scent technology, emitted by the equipment.

FCE Cosmetique 2024 innovations focused on sustainable, biotechnological ingredients to awaken the senses. This points toward an exciting future for the cosmetics industry, where innovation meets sustainability and a multi-sensory experience takes center stage. FCE Cosmetique 2025 is set for June 10-12 in São Paulo.

Daniela Ferreira is a marketing and communication professional in the cosmetic market. She has a master’s degree in fashion from the University of São Paulo (USP). The study presented in the thesis, integrated product launching in fashion and perfume, mainly comprising marketing studies related to brand, product and consumer behavior. At present, she is lecturer on marketing issues. Her expertise comprises managing and launching products, communication planning and market studies for identifying new business opportunities. Daniela can be contacted at danief@uol.com.br