Most hair conditioners and masks contain fatty alcohols, cationic surfactants, emulsifiers, oils and silicones. Usually, formulators must heat these ingredients to develop their formulations. Each time formulators modify an ingredient, they must repeat the entire process of heating the entire formulation. This process continues until the formulation is perfected. The development of formulations using heat requires time and energy. So, how can SNF help formulators save time, energy and money?

The trend of “less is more” is becoming a requirement. By reducing the number of ingredients in a hair care formulation, consumer product companies can reduce the cost of the formulas and save time and energy by using cold-process formulations. Companies can pass these savings to the end-users, which is good for everyone.

Inverse Emulsion Polymers

Inverse emulsions or liquid dispersion polymers (LDPs) are made up of a dispersion of polymer droplets suspended in a continuous oil phase. An oil-in-water emulsifier allows this dispersion to invert with water and agitation. The polymer is released with agitation and absorbs water. The polymer swells to build viscosity (Figure 1).

Cationic inverse emulsion polymers can develop formulations at room temperature with no heat required (cold-processed). Formulators can create a wide range of hair care products, including conditioners, treatments, styling and coloring products, transparent conditioning gels, and men’s grooming products.

SNF has developed a wide range of cationic inverse emulsions that are water-soluble polymers. The Flocare Polyquaternium-37 [Poly(2-methacryloxyethyltrimethylammonium chloride)] range contains cationic inverse emulsions in liquid and powder forms.

Flocare ET 1237 PP1 [Polyquaternium-37 (and) mineral oil (and) PPG-1 trideceth-6] and Flocare ET 1737 GPG [Polyquaternium-37 (and) propylene glycol dicaprylate/dicaprate (and) PPG-1 trideceth-6] are traditional cationic inverse emulsions polymers in liquid form.

Flocare PSD 1037 LV and Flocare PSD 1037 XT (Polyquaternium-37) are cationic inverse emulsions polymers that have been spray-dried. The cationic polymers are spray-dried using a unique technology developed by SNF. The resulting products are multifunctional, highly concentrated, white, free-flowing powders. Flocare PSD 1037 XT helps formulators create transparent formulations and provides secondary benefits like softness.

Emulsion Polymer Study

This article’s study focuses specifically on SNF’s Flocare Polyquaternium-37 range for hair care. The research will demonstrate how formulators can create conditioners using Flocare Polyquaternium-37 with minimum ingredients but excellent performance. These polymers help solve some of the challenges (i.e., softness, straightening properties, and conditioning) that formulators typically face when creating hair care products.

Thickening: Polyquaternium-37 (PQ-37) inverse emulsion polymers deliver thickening properties over a wide pH range. The cationic inverse emulsion polymers are multifunctional polymers that act as emulsifying agents and conditioning agents. They are pre-neutralized and easy to disperse. Cationic inverse emulsion systems yield high viscosity ranges at low dosage, deliver unique textures ranging from light to heavy, from sprayable to creams/masks, and give stable designs over a wide pH range (3-10).

Softness: The first challenge in the study was determining if the Polyquaternium-37 range impacts the softness of hair tresses. The smoothness of the hair was analyzed using XFluo 3D Microscopy technology by Kamax.1 XFluo 3D Microscopy technology is an optical technique based on fluorescence that allows the quantification and qualification of various biological targets. Thanks to XFluo 3D, the mapping of surface conditions of hair cuticle keratin is possible by characterizing it, via two methods:

• by obtaining very high-definition 3D visuals
• by calculating the surface roughness of the hair

The study was conducted on hair tress of 1g and 20cm long moderately sensitized (level 2) by three successive bleachings in simplex medium (supplier SP Equation).2 Hair tresses (20% weight) were treated with a solution of 1% Polyquaternium-37 polymer solution in water.

The two variations of Polyquaternium-37 were evaluated: Polyquaternium-37 (and) propylene glycol dicaprylate/cicaprate (and) PPG-1 trideceth-6 emulsion and polyquaternium-37 powder forms, respectively.

The hair tresses were treated with each polymer solution and then evaluated versus untreated hair tresses (= placebo).

Softness Evaluation Method:

• 0.2g of each 1% PQ-37 solution in water was applied to the hair tress for 30 seconds.
• Next, the solution was allowed to deposit on the hair for 1 minute.
• Then, the hair tresses were rinsed for 30 seconds under running water at room temperature.
• Finally, the hair tresses were allowed to dry for one night in chambers at 21°C and 50% relative humidity.
• The hair tresses were removed from the chambers and evaluated using XFluo 3D Microscopy. For each hair tress tested with the Polyquaternium-37 solution and the Control, 18 hair segments were analyzed, and one XFluo 3D measurement was performed per hair segment (= roughness measurement).

Figure 2 shows the results of hair roughness for each group of hair segments. As you can see, the hair tresses treated with Polyquaternium-37 solutions displayed a reduction in hair surface roughness by nearly 34% versus the control (= no polymer).

The qualitative analysis (Figure 3) corroborates the quantitative analysis. Indeed, as represented in the pictures, the hair tresses treated with the Polyquaternium-37 range are visually similar, with a small number of open scales. However, we observe that the untreated hair tress has many open scales (widely visible black grooves), which indicate hair roughness.

Straightening Benefit (Non-Permanent)

Many consumers have different demands for their hair care products. Some consumers want products that reduce hair flyaway, straighten and resist humidity. Polyquaternium-37 powder was evaluated in a minimalist formulation to determine if it helps provide straightening and humidity-resistance benefits. A simple cold-process formulation containing five ingredients: Water, polyquaternium-37 powder (2%), glycerin (2%), jojoba oil (3%) and tocopherol (0.05%) was compared to hot-process finished products from the professional market3 containing silicones.

Results:

Each product (15% by weight of product/tress) was evaluated using naturally textured hair tresses (Walker Type 3). The hair tresses were dried, flat-ironed (five times @ 230°C), and then placed into a climatic chamber.

Observation photos were taken at T=0, T=4hr., and T=24hr. (Figure 4). At T=0, all the hair tresses appeared equivalent. However, results indicated a volume reduction after 4- and 24 hours in a climatic chamber @ 25°C and 80% humidity for both professional products. After 24 hours, the minimalist formulation containing Polyquaternium-37 powder performed better than the professional benchmarks containing silicones.

SNF’s Polyquaternium-37 range allows one to create minimalist formulations while maintaining excellent straightening performance (i.e., non-permanent straightening).

Conditioning Performance

Polyquaternium 37 powder XT can be used to create transparent formulations. An innovative minimalist clear conditioner formulation was developed to show the broad use potential of Polyquaternium 37 powder XT. This formulation satisfies the market demand for innovation, creativity and simplicity without compromising conditioning performance. The formulation contains Polyquaternium 37 powder XT (1%), hydroxypropyl guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride (0.50%), aloe vera juice (3%), preservative and water.

Its performance characteristics were evaluated on Caucasian and textured hair. The cold-processed formulation showed equivalent wet combability results on Caucasian hair compared to a hot-process mass market conditioner containing BTAC (Behentrimonium chloride). The formulation also was evaluated on textured hair, and results indicated enhanced softness on lengths and tips in both wet and dry states. Also, a better gliding sensation was felt during the rinsing stage.

Conclusion

SNF has developed a range of cationic rheology modifiers that are multifunctional, vegan and sustainable. The Polyquaternium-37 range thickens, emulsifies and provides texture to formulations. To meet today’s sustainability demands, SNF offers the Polyquaternium-37 range that is cold-processable, easy to disperse and does not require neutralization for the polymer to hydrate or thicken.
Polyquaternium-37 products provide excellent wet combability, exceptional conditioning and softness-enhancing properties to hair, thus providing a new way to create conditioners. 

More info: flocare@snf.com or website: //snf.com/industry/personal-care/

References

1. https://kamax-innovative.com/
2. http://www.spequation.com/fr/
3. Professional Straightening Cream: Water, PVM/MA  copolymer, polyimide-1, glycerin, glyceryl acrylate/acrylic acid copolymer, caprylyl glycol, phenoxyethanol, cyclopentasiloxane. guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride, acrylic acid/VP crosspolymer, sodium polyacrylate, fragrance (parfum), tetrasodium EDTA, PEG-4 dilaurate, PEG-4 laurate, iodopropynyl butylcarbmate, PEG-4, disosodium EDTA, benzyl alcohol, benzyl benzoate, butylphenol methylpropional, citral, hexyl cinnamal, limonene, linalool. Premium Straightening Cream: Water, cetearyl alcohol, amodmethicone, cetyl esters behentrimonium chloride, phenoxylethanol, glycerin, isopropyl alcohol, trideceth-6, vitis vinifera seed oil/ grapeseed oil, hexyl cinnamal, guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride, chlorhexidine dihydrochloride, linalool, benzyl, benzoate, cetrimonium chloride, hydroxypropyltrimonium, hydroylzed wheat protein, limonene, magnesium acetate, alphaisomethylionone, 2-oleamido-1,3-octadecanediol, citric acid, benzyl alcohol, aspartic acid, glycine, arginine, glutamic acid, eugenol, fumaric acid, tocopherol, helianthus annuus seed oil (sunflower seed oil), rosmarinus officinals (rosemary) extract, parfum/fragrance