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Skin care formulations that promise to protect a prized possession—one’s appearance—are always in demand.
May 1, 2015
By: Christine Esposito
Managing Editor
With apologies to George Bernard Shaw, youth isn’t being wasted on the young—not when it comes to skin care. In fact, younger and younger consumers are employing anti-aging skin care regimens in order to maintain a valued possession, their appearance, as well as their body’s biggest organ, the skin. “The younger consumer is smart and knows she must invest in what the French call her ‘capital beaute’—her beauty capital,” said Dr. Laurence Dryer, PhD, director of portfolio development at Valeant Pharmaceuticals NA. “Although many of them understand that sun protection is essential to help keep melanoma at bay, it is mostly the fear of an aged appearance in the future that drives them to take measures early on.” According to Dryer, who will speak at the 2015 Happi Anti-Aging Conference & Tabletop Exhibition in September, younger women seem to have grasp of what daily living can do to the skin and, most importantly, they take action. “Younger women understand that stress is deleterious to any face, and we all know that stress is the great age-equalizer, you are never too young to experience it, and in fact you could argue young women may feel its effect more than their older, more experienced counterparts. This younger consumer understands her skin is constantly under assault and that prevention is key, not to mention much easier than repair.” Many women now in their 40s and 50s lament their skin care past (think sitting poolside for hours on end or not washing makeup off at night) and wish they did back then what they do now—like don UV protection every day, take time to cleanse properly and moisturize at night. “When you hit 25 and there onward, you are going through the aging process. Your body needs to work really hard to maintain everything, to ward off 10,000 hits a day from free radicals. There is so much that has to be done to maintain the skin,” noted Karen Asquith, director of education at G.M. Collin, a spa brand that traces it roots back to 1957 France and is currently manufactured by Laboratoires Dermo Cosmetik, a division of Montreal-based PhytoDerm. Luckily, today’s roster of serums, alphabet creams, masks and at-home devices are designed to tackle the sins of past skin transgressions—lines, wrinkles and sun/age spots—and protect against further damage from UVA/UVB and other environmental aggressors. According to IRI, Chicago, skin care sales in US multi-outlets (supermarkets, drugstores, mass market retailers, military commissaries and select club and dollar retail chains), rose less than 1% to $3.48 billion for the 52 weeks ended Feb. 22, 2015. Facial cleanser sales rose 3.8% to $1.01 billion and facial moisturizers jumped 3.2% to $424 million. Anti-aging product sales declined slightly, off 1.88%, to $1.14 billion. Leaders across the segment include companies like Johnson & Johnson, Procter & Gamble, Valeant and Kao. In the prestige sector, dollar sales climbed 2% to reach $3.7 billion in the 12 months ending February 2015, noted Port Washington, NY-based The NPD Group, Inc. Mask Hysteria Within skin care, two specific product formats are surging. Sales within the at-home beauty devices market increased nearly 14% in 2014, and “facial masks are so huge right now,” according to Karen Doskow, director at Kline’s Consumer Products Practice. Recent launches provide evidence that mask shoppers expect the same roster of beneficial ingredients seen in other topicals. Osmosis Pür Medical Skincare’s HydraLift-Firming Gel Mask, for example, plumps and smooths out rough textures and wrinkles while also promoting soothing benefits through the use of cucumber extract, aloe vera, chamomile, green tea leaf extract, pro-vitamin B5, hyaluronic acid and fermented radish root, while Platogen Plant Derived Spa Therapy’s Royal Facelift Mask includes pharmaceutical-grade New Zealand manuka honey, bee venom, vitamin C, shea butter and citrus polypeptides. And Tula’s Exfoliating Treatment Mask, which hits QVC.com on May 1, is a dual-treatment that offers chemical and physical exfoliation as lactic acid bolstered with bentonite clay and microencapsulated beads containing jojoba oil, volcanic sand and vitamin E work, to gently slough off old, dead skin cells. In addition, it contains Tula’s signature probiotic technology, featuring omega 3 and 6 essential fatty acids, rice proteins, vitamins A, C and E and fruit extracts. Korean skin care brand Laneige, which has been expanding its presence in the US, rolled out a new Firming Sleeping Mask exclusively at Target and Target.com. The firm’s new mask addresses one of the US’s biggest health concerns: lack of sleep. More than 73% of Americans are getting less than eight hours of sleep a night, according to Laneige data. Drowsiness and irritability aside, there’s implications for skin, too. According to Laneige, a clinical trial conducted by University Hospitals Case Medical Center found a link between sleep deprivation and accelerated skin aging. To that end, Laneige Firming Sleeping Mask helps strengthen the skin’s regenerative ability by improving the quality of sleep with patented Sleepscent technology. In a proprietary study by AmorePacific’s R&D center (parent to Laneige), Sleepscent demonstrated that aroma-therapeutic properties help relax mind and body by promoting deeper, more restful sleep. This patented fragrance technology (which contains orange flower, rose, ylang ylang and sandalwood oil), helps improve the quality of sleep by prolonging REM3 and REM4 deep sleep stages, reducing body movements by 60% and increasing the proportion of deep sleep hours by 36%. Matthew TJ Oh, principal scientist from AmorePacific R&D Center, told Happi that in addition to the sleep-inducing qualities, Laneige Firming Sleeping Mask features Memory Form Gel technology, which is said to accelerate skin’s elasticity retention, and SleePop technology, which helps restore skin firmness overnight with resilience-building GABA peptides and hydrating tuberose. Company officials say they would like this mask to mimic the success of their Water Sleeping Mask; one of which is sold every 15 seconds, according to Laneige brand manager Chinae Kim. Nighttime skin rejuvenation is on the radar at CeraVe, too. The brand, which is part of Valeant, has recently unveiled its new Skin Renewing Night Cream. “CeraVe Renewing Night Cream is a Chronobiology-themed rich night cream that features not only our proprietary ceramide technology but also two new smart biomimetic peptides engineered to support the skin at the appropriate phase in its circadian rhythm,” Dryer told Happi. The non-greasy formula contains Kollaren and chronoline to help reduce the look of fine lines and wrinkles and support skin elasticity. Ceramides and hyaluronic acid work to provide intense hydration while helping to repair and restore the protective skin barrier. CeraVe’s roster also has been pumped up with new Renewing SA Cleanser, which has ceramides, vitamin D and salicylic acid, and Skin Renewing Cream Serum, which features a unique delivery system that stabilizes and delivers retinol into the skin gradually over time, so it won’t cause harsh irritation. “CeraVe Renewing serum is a beautiful, creamy chassis containing a high level of encapsulated retinol as well as our legacy skin-identical ceramides, plus a very timely vitamin D analog,” said Dryer, noting that the US population is known to be “Vit D” deficient. Ingredients in Action Across the skin care spectrum, chemists are blending new and workhorse ingredients into their skin care formulations. Several brands have cast their nets into marine ingredients. G.M. Collin, for example, offers Marine Revitalizing Anti-Aging Cream, which utilizes the latest advances in marine science. Key ingredients include marine collagen, which provides long-lasting moisture and softens fine lines and wrinkles; coral seaweed, which replenishes vital nutrients, prevents cellular fatigue, and activates collagen; Algae Undaria Pinnatifida, which is said to reactivate 14 genes involved in the redensification of the extracellular matrix; and Thermus Thermophilus Ferment, which reinforces the cutaneous barrier and prevents the visible signs of photo-aging. Clinical testing revealed reduction of the total surface area of lines and wrinkles by up to 91% on the forehead, 85% on crow’s feet, and 74% nasolabial, according to G.M. Collin, which sells the $92 treatment through its spa locations. One of Nordic Beauty’s hero products is Collagen Peptide Serum, which helps reduce skin lines and wrinkles and helps prevent further degenerative affects from aging via a proprietary formulation that consists of a blend of marine collagen peptides from Norway, organic lingonberry extract and organic iris stem cells. At Elemis, a popular pick is Pro-Collagen Marine Cream, which “has been clinically proven to reduce the appearance of wrinkles by up to 78% and increase hydration in the skin up to 45% in just 14 days, so it’s no surprise that 1 is sold every 10 seconds around the world,” explained Noella Gabriel, co-founder of Elemis. Gabriel pointed to three key marine ingredients that drive the formulation. First is Padina Pavonica, small, brown, fan-shaped seaweed sourced off the coast of Malta that is unicellular, like the skin, which mimics the skin’s function for cell-renewal and improved cell-communication. Second is Porphyridium, a unicellular algae rich in moisturizing fatty acids. Lastly, Chlorella slows down the deterioration of elastin and collagen. Elemis is celebrating its 25th anniversary with special edition product packaging, according to Gabriel, who touted her company’s quarter-century record in product development. “Every time we go into formulation, we create products that work at a professional spa-therapy level and that deliver incredible results, be it within our facials or body treatments. Before and after, we clinically trial our treatments to prove it makes a real difference to the skin and ensure the whole treatment experience has allowed the client to be at her most relaxed for best efficacy of a product. Only once we have achieved results do we move forward with creating an at-home product that can mirror the spa/salon treatment results.” Next up from Elemis will be a White Brightening System that encompasses cleanser, lotion and serum. According to Garbiel, the White Brightening Complex “harnesses potent melanin inhibitors and white brightening actives to synergistically combat age spots, dark spots, uneven skin tone and irregular pigmentation.” Youth Group Anti-aging remains a driving force behind skin care R&D and the new launches hitting counters each month. NeoStrata’s new Skin Active Dermal Replenishment is an intense hydrator that takes a powerful four-pronged approach to anti-aging. Unveiled at the American Academy of Dermatology Annual Meeting in March, Skin Active Dermal Replenishment tackles everything from slack, lined skin and dark spots to uneven skin tone and mottled pigmentation via ingredients such as amniotic, NeoGlucosamine, maltobionic acid, and Prodew, which provides amino acids essential for Natural Moisturizing Factor to hydrate and reduce moisture loss. According to Barbara Green, vice president of clinical affairs at NeoStrata Company, fine lines and wrinkles around the eyes and lips become more noticeable when skin is dehydrated. “Skin Active Dermal Replenishment addresses this issue by providing optimal hydration while infusing skin with essential anti-aging ingredients that help reduce damage over time,” she explained. The result is a more noticeably youthful complexion, according to Green, who will speak at Happi’s Anti-Aging Conference in September. Derm brand Phyto-C offers its Phyto-C Signature, a potent, anti-aging cream with IMPA Complex, which features a unique blend of hexapeptides, glycoproteins and protein hydrolysate (specifically, Aleosin, madelic acid, vitamin B12) developed by brand founder, Dr. Mostafa Omar. The proprietary formula works to combat imperfections in just days by accelerating cell renewal, boosting collagen production and more. Babor, based in Delray Beach, FL, is rolling out a new anti-aging system, ReVersive, which is designed to restore youthful radiance and luminosity, leaving the complexion looking firmer and smoother with a beautifully even appearance, according to the company. The heart of the ReVersive line is the brand’s Re-Youth Complex, which contains Telovitin, Agicyl, Lumicol and Epocyl. Telovitin, an active ingredient based on Nobel Prize-winning research, combats skin aging at its source—cell activity. It protects the telomeres, extending the life cycle of the skin cells. Agicyl, which is said to activate defenses against skin aging, is a multifunctional active ingredient extracted from the stem cells of the Alpine plant Globular cordifolia. It prevents the breakdown of the collagen fibers so that the skin retains its elasticity and neutralizes free radicals and environmental aggressors. An active radiance-boosting ingredient, Lumicol (extracted from microalgae) can activate a protein that destroys dark pigmentation and age spots to ensure an even-looking complexion and restore radiance, according to the brand. Lastly, Epocyl, an active obtained from plankton, forms a film on the surface of the skin and visibly fills in any wrinkles and unevenness. The ReVersive collection includes an anti-aging dual serum that is freshly activated by the user for a one-week application. Once activated, the two phases of the serum blend to form a microemulsion, which penetrates the skin “noticeably deeper and faster” than typical formulations, according to the company, which sells it in a set of four bottles, each designed for seven days’ use for $265. The range also includes ReVersive anti-aging eye cream, which has extracts of rhodiola rosea, sugar beet and yeast that stimulate lymph flow, thus reducing dark circles under the eyes. Windows to the World SK-II is also tackling the eye area with its new Essential Power Eye Cream, which has been designed to target three key points around the eye that are the first areas to show age and play a vital role in the perception of youthful-looking skin. Through an SK-II Akita study (spanning more than 10 years), SK-II scientists discovered that each area is affected by aging in different ways: eye bags begin to sag in the 20s, eyelids develop wrinkles in the 30s, while wrinkles manifest in the corner of the eyes in a woman’s 40s, according to the brand, which is part of P&G Prestige Skincare. Formulated to work on the under eye area, the lid and the corner of the eye, Essential Power Eye Cream contains Stem-Acanax Eye Complex, which is comprised of three Essential Power Trio Actives (concentrated Pitera, Stem Acanax and artichoke extract); PAL-VB Complex, which targets skin’s elasticity and wrinkle resilience; and lupine-alfalfa extract, which aids in preventing the sagging look of eye bags. Upon application, the cream works to smooth the appearance of wrinkles and even out the texture around the entire eye area. SK-II has also extended its fan-favorite Facial Treatment Essence to the eye zone with new Facial Treatment Essence – Eye, which combines Pitera with Eye Albus Complex, which helps to reduce the appearance of dark circles and fine lines—issues that have emerged as the top skin concerns for young women. SK-II recommends pairing the eye serum with a recommended eye massage that is specially designed to help lymph drainage, relax stressed muscles and promote blood circulation to deliver a visibly improved and brighter look around the eyes. Hydraboost Eye treatment is among the best sellers in the M-61 Skincare range. This peptide-packed hydrating and firming eye cream is formulated with vitamin B5, tamarind, soy and white mulberry. In a clinical trial conducted this year, 100% of subjects reported increased hydration and firmness, 97% saw reduction of under eye puffiness, and 91% saw a reduction in the appearance of fine lines, crow’s feet and under eye discoloration within four weeks, according to M-61, which is a proprietary brand of beauty retailer Bluemercury. “Hydraboost eye is one our hero products,” said Marla Malcolm Beck, CEO of Bluemercury, which launched M-61 back in 2010. More recently, in February, her company made headlines when Macy’s acquired it in a $210 million deal. According to Malcolm Beck, the deal gives Macy’s a “specialty retailer that’s close to the consumer,” and provides Bluemercury with access to a great tech innovation lab. “Together we can bring beauty to different levels,” she told Happi in a phone interview. Based in Washington, DC, Bluemercury currently operates 60 specialty stores in 18 states but Malcolm Beck and her husband Barry Beck, who will continue to lead the operation, have big plans for 2015 that include “aggressive” expansion of its retail footprint. In fact, expect another 18 free-standing locations to open this year. Another goal for Bluemercury is acceleration into white space. Moves are already underway, according to Malcolm Beck, with recent rollouts like M-61 SuperSoothe E Microdermabrasion Scrub, a one minute vitamin E facial scrub and mask. This new SKU has combined two steps, which the CEO says is perfect for M-61’s customer base. “Our clients are timed-starved,” Malcolm Beck said about the scrub-mask, which is formulated with ingredients like kaolin clay, vitamin E, aloe, goldenberry and red seaweed. In addition, the scrub features natural pumice for exfoliation. “Our clients don’t want beads—and they gum up the environment,” she added. Model Behavior As big names in retail pick up new properties to extend their position in beauty, some well-known names in beauty are also ramping up their efforts in the lucrative skin care market. NuGene International, Inc. has launched a new campaign for the NuGene Kathy Ireland brand. Efforts include a re-branded internet presence and new videos featuring the model; both are part of larger multi-media campaign that Nugene says includes major marketing launches and full-page ads slated for beauty books like InStyle, Vogue and Vanity Fair. The goal is to sell more products like NuGene Kathy Ireland Universal Serum ($299.99), which is formulated with multiple human growth factors, polypeptides, vitamins, minerals and amino acids. Nugene, which became a publicly traded company earlier this year, recently acquired SkinGuardian, an FDA-approved skin protectant, antiseptic and moisturizing topical cream. The deal includes the patent for the topical cream, which company officials see as the foundation for a variety of topical treatments it will develop that incorporate the use of stem cells to enhance healing. Also on the skin care runway is the Christie Brinkley Authentic Skincare Collection, which was designed to address multiple signs of aging with products that are formulated to help defend against infrared damage. The range is infused with Bio-Copper, a proprietary blend that features plant extracts, amino acids and copper to support skin’s anti-aging defenses. Featured on HSN and sold in Kohl’s, the collection includes Recapture Day + IR Defense Anti-Aging Day Cream, Recapture 360 Night Anti-Aging Night Treatment, Complete Clarity Daily Facial Exfoliating Polish, Refocus Eye + IR Defense Serum Infusion Eye Treatment, Uplift + IR Defense Firming Neck & Décolleté Treatment, Close Up Instant Wrinkle Smoother & Treatment (which tightens skin on contact), and Complete Clarity Facial Cleansing Wash. Prices range from $21-69. More Is Better When you find a hero ingredient, stick with it—that’s the motto at P&G, which has enhanced the Olay Total Effects formulation with 40% more vitamins and the highest level of niacinamide ever used in OTC Olay skin care product. In fact, the new formulation has 40% more niacinamide than the previous version. “Niacinamide is one of our favorite technologies. It is the gold standard in skin care,” Olay Senior Scientist Dr. Frauke Neuser told Happi in a phone interview, on the heels of the American Academy of Dermatology Annual Meeting in March. “Niacinamide helps build the skin barrier, improves hydration levels. It helps with regard to micro-inflammation, UV damage, and has texture and tone benefits, too.” By increasing the niacinamide, P&G’s Total Effects is “an even better all around protector for the skin,” according to Neuser. To build better products that protect skin, Olay’s R&D has been taking a close look at the connection between air pollution and skin health. Last year, it announced that it conducted a clinical study across the least and most polluted districts of Beijing, measuring multiple aspects of skin health and appearance on more than 200 women while recording their lifestyle and skin care routine choices. The analysis showed that subjects living in the highly polluted district had significantly worse skin hydration than subjects living in the cleaner suburbs, despite making better lifestyle choices—such as cleansing routines, water consumption and greater skin care product usage. In addition, lower levels of important biomarkers indicating compromised skin barrier function were found in the urban subjects. While it was not completely unexpected to see impaired skin condition linked to high air pollution levels, Olay contends this study was the first to provide sound scientific evidence that skin barrier function and skin hydration are among the most immediate and significant threats that air pollution poses to the skin. “We do in-depth fundamental research into skin health and skin aging,” said Neuser. “We try to look at everything in context of the world around us, in 21st Century living. So much as has changed in 30-50 years; including the challenges and threats our skin is exposed to.” But UV, according to P&G experts like Neuser, remains “the biggest environmental stressor for skin.” “We’ve been on this UV journey for 20 years,” she said, ticking off the barriers to usage that still remain—products that consumers feel are too heavy, too greasy or too oily. To that end, Olay recently unveiled Total Effects Featherweight Moisturizer SPF 15, which is formulated with Olay SolaSheer Technology, a photo-stabilized sunscreen system that nourishes skin with a vitamin complex while protecting against both UVB and UVA rays, as well as nacinamide and glycerin to provide anti-aging benefits plus weightless moisturization making it light in texture but heavy on results, according to the brand. And therein lies a key component for any skin care formulation; the product must be efficacious and aesthetically pleasing. “We bring in thousands of women every year and do real life research,” said Neuser. “It makes no sense to make a great SPF moisturizer, if she isn’t going to use it.”
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