Dear Valerie: I’m analyzing meadowfoam seed oil to its individual fatty acid components, and I’m wondering if the oil’s benefits come from its fatty acid profile alone or do minor compounds like tocopherols make a big difference in performance?  —OIL OBSESSED

Dear Oil, 
I really like meadowfoam seed oil. Aside from it being one of the few plant oils indigenous to North America, it has an interesting feel—lightweight, spreads easily on skin or hair, and imparts a desirable sheen that’s neither too matte nor glossy on skin. As I once extensively studied oxidative stability of plant oils, I also appreciate the oxidative stability intrinsic to meadowfoam seed oil’s composition.

MSO is unique in that contains only minute amounts of fatty acids C18 or lower; meaning the entirety of its fatty acid composition contains 20 carbons or more. In fact, 63% of its composition is a mono-unsaturated C20, eicosanoic acid, 15% is a mono-unsaturated C22, erucic acid. The rest of its fatty acids are comprised of polyunsaturated C20 and C22 eicosadienoic and docosadienoic acid acids at 12% and 10%, respectively. It’s one of the only known oils in this distribution range.

While increasing degrees of unsaturation (number of double bonds) predisposes fatty acid chains to oxidation, the fact that MSO has such long fatty chain acids affords protection through steric hindrance, particularly as the double bonds are far from the carbonyl group at the proximal end. The carbon chains are simply too long to allow attack on the double bonds!

While MSO is purported to contain high amounts of tocopherols, I haven’t been able to find any peer reviewed literature indicating the magnitude and I don’t have any record in my notes from past meetings with the premier producer of this oil, Natural Plant Products. I would venture to guess the fatty acid profile is more responsible for the incredible shelf life, not the tocopherol content.

The fatty acid profile is also responsible for the oil’s texture and dry feel. There aren’t many non-unctuous oils on the market that also leave the skin feeling adequately nourished, this is one of them. There are also many meadowfoam seed oil derivatives, primarily engineered by the old Fanning Corp., which was acquired by Elementis. These are quaternized or tethered to silicone moieties for increased functionality in hair. I have to say, these work quite well and I’m an avid user!

If you haven’t tried meadowfoam seed oil or its derivatives, I encourage you to give them a try. You won’t look back!

Valerie George is a cosmetic chemist, science communicator, educator, leader, and avid proponent of transparency in the beauty industry. She works on the latest research in hair color and hair care at her company, Simply Formulas, and is the co-host of The Beauty Brains podcast. You can find her on Instagram at @cosmetic_chemist or showcasing her favorite ingredients to small brands and home formulators at simply-ingredients.com.