First things first. When consumers wake up, they reach for toothpaste, not makeup. It’s an essential, daily-use OTC product—but a lot of people don’t use it enough. According to the 2022 World Health Organization’s global oral health status nearly 3.5 billion people (3 out of 4) suffer from oral diseases. Global toothpaste sales will grow 5.38% a year to top $29.0 billion in 2032, predicts Fortune Business Insights (FBI).

Demand Grows Around the World

Asia Pacific is the leading region with a 36.6% share. Growth in the region is driven by increased use of online platforms for purchasing personal care products and rising demand for functionally advanced and plant-based oral hygiene solutions in countries like China, India and Southeast Asia, per FBI. By type, the teeth whitening segment held the largest market share in 2024 due to strong demand from younger consumers for products that improve appearance and remove stains. By distribution channel, supermarkets/hypermarkets led the way due to the broad availability of branded products, competitive pricing, and consumer convenience. However, online stores are witnessing robust growth due to increased digital adoption and doorstep delivery options.

The US market is expected to top $5.3 billion by 2032. It’s supported by rising concerns about oral disorders and increasing preference for premium and smart dental care products. China and India’s oral care markets are being transformed by rapid e-commerce expansion, urbanization and rising awareness of functional pastes (anti-sensitivity, whitening, gum protection). In the UK and Germany, high coffee consumption and a focus on dental hygiene are boosting toothpaste use, especially anti-stain and enamel protection variants.

The Brazil market is marked by strategic marketing campaigns, such as Colgate’s collaboration with Red Bull Bragantino Football Club to promote gum care products. In the UAE and Saudi Arabia, increased awareness and rising penetration of premium oral care brands are supporting regional growth. Finally, in South Africa growth is driven by rising awareness of oral health and availability of international brands through retail and digital channels.

What’s driving demand? Around the world, more children are experiencing dental issues. At the opposite end of the age spectrum, an increasing number of older adults prefer sensitive and herbal dental health pastes to treat their gum redness and tooth decaying problems, according to FBI.

Help for Chemists

Toothpaste represents a growth opportunity. While the market is dominated by multinational like Colgate-Palmolive (Colgate), Procter & Gamble (Crest) and Haleon (Aquafresh), niche players find consumers who are eager to brush with alternative formulas. To help cosmetic chemists create tomorrow’s toothpastes, Natalie Hendrix, owner, BeautySci Studios, New York, NY, conducted a webinar on formulating next-gen toothpastes. The webinar was part of the Society of Cosmetic Chemists’ Continuing Education Program.

“When I was thrown into oral care formulation, I realized how few resources there were to learn. It seems like a lot of the knowledge around oral care formulation is held within the large companies like Colgate and P&G, which can make it challenging for information to spread,” explained Hendrix. “I wanted to provide a resource that makes the entry into the space easier for chemists who might encounter toothpaste during their careers and to get people talking more about oral care formulation within the chemist community.”

Enamel Essentials and Dentin Details

Hendrix opened the CEP course with a review of tooth structure. The outermost layer, enamel, is composed primarily, about 95%, of hydroxyapatite (HAP). The rest? Water (4%) and organic matter (1%). The enamel rod is the building block of enamel. Each rod consists of an assembly of apatite needle-like structures that are aligned parallel to one another and bound together by non-collagenous proteins. Despite its strength, demineralization weakens enamel.

Demineralization occurs when pH drops due to acid production by fermentation of dietary sugar, explained Hendrix. In time, it affects the integrity of the crystal structure and leads to cavities, sensitivity and other issues. The good news is that calcium phosphate can be redeposited on enamel surfaces. Hendrix reviewed plaque formation and the role the pellicle layer plays in enabling bacteria to adhere to teeth and create biofilm.

She pointed out that OTC toothpaste formulations allow three fluoride types:

• Sodium fluoride
• Sodium monofluorophosphate
• Stannous fluoride

Enamel gets most of the attention, but Hendrix noted dentin accounts for most of tooth volume. Composed of minerals (70%), organic matter (20%) and water (10%), it protects pulp tissue from external stimuli and provides support to enamel. Dentin contains small, hollow channels (tubules), which extend from the pulp toward the dentin enamel junction. The tubules carry nutrients and fluids, hydrate the tooth and conduct sensory signals, explained Hendrix.

But when enamel erodes or gums recess, sensitivity occurs. Hendrix detailed three avenues to reduce the pain linked to sensitivity:

• Desensitization. Potassium salts alter the potassium ion concentration outside cells, stopping the pain response.
• Occlusion. Creates an artificial layer over the tubules “plugging” or “blocking” stimuli from moving the fluid.
• Rebuilding. Via fluoride

Toothpastes, properly formulated, help maintain tooth health. Toothpaste aids in the removal of plaque and food, maintains teeth aesthetics, delivers therapeutic agents and freshens breath. Hendrix explained toothpaste is an example of a sol: a type of colloidal dispersion with a solid dispersed phase in a liquid dispersion medium. Toothpaste formulas include functional ingredients such as water, humectants, chelants, surfactants and buffers; therapeutic ingredients like fluoride, potassium nitrate and anti-plaque/tartar agents; and “marketing ingredients” such as colors and flavors.

Toothpaste Ingredients & Troubleshooting

Hendrix reviewed various ingredient classes including abrasives (carbonates, silica, phosphates and alumina), which are typically used at 10-50%; surfactants (sodium laurel sulfate, cocamidopropyl betaine, sodium coccyx glutamate and laurel glucoside), used at 0.5-2.5%; and flavors, 0.5-2.0%.

She closed her presentation by offering several trouble shooting tips.

Hardening? Increase humectant concentration.

Aeration? Vacuum to remove excess air. Add ingredients like surfactants under vacuum, if possible.

Syneresis? Increase binder concentration, add supporting structuring agent.

Over thickening? Decrease thickening silica.

Poor Stand Up? Swap or increase binder, increase thickening silica.

Flavor oxidation? Add antioxidant, tweak flavor blend to reduce constituents prone to oxidation.

pH shifts? Add buffering system, such as sodium phosphate mono basic with sodium phosphate dibasic.

Clumping? Use high shear mixing or alter order of addition.

Feels like brushing with nothing? Increase foam volume and stability.

Hendrix was pleased with attendance (more than 200) and interaction with attendees.

“I got so many questions we had to cut it off! I was excited about this because I think it shows that people are interested in and want to learn more about oral care,” she said. “My hope is that others who have knowledge in this space will also share what they know!”

But webinars aren’t the only way to share knowledge and Hendrix’s company is designed to impart it.

The Backstory on BeautySci Studios

BeautySci Studios is an E-Learning platform designed for cosmetic industry professionals. BeautySci provides budget-friendly, quality education to help you grow as a cosmetic chemist. We help you understand the science behind what it takes to create innovative formulas. 

“BeautySci Studios started during a transition period in my life. I had decided I wanted to go back to school for pharmaceutics so I could transition to pharma,” recalled Hendrix. “I knew I didn’t want to leave the cosmetic industry behind so I started BeautySci Studios as a way to still be involved and active in this space.”

Hendrix’s educational background is in chemistry. But she also has a Master of Engineering in biological chemical engineering and is working on her second masters degree in drug development and industrial pharmacy. She started in the cosmetic industry about six years ago and has worked as a formulation chemist at both a brand and a manufacturer.

Now, Hendrix is launching a program for cosmetic chemists that is designed to build the formulation foundation and strengthen scientific confidence.

“We will be teaching the concepts, principles and theories that are important to cosmetic chemistry,” Hendrix said. “I definitely have a few other things up my sleeve for the future but am extremely excited about the launch of the membership this January. I hope it helps aspiring and early career cosmetic chemists gain a deeper understanding within the field!”

Contact Natalie Hendrix, hello@beautyscistudios.com; www.beautyscistudios.com