As a scientist of innovation and research at Keune Haircosmetics, Vincent van’t Hof is on the cutting-edge of haircare research. In this interview, van’t Hof shares insights on what’s trending and what to expect in the coming months.

Happi: Dry, oily and normal won’t cut it anymore in haircare. What are some of the more precise ways to describe hair?

Vincent van’t Hof: Hair can be categorized by a combination of factors like porosity, density, elasticity and texture.

Porosity indicates how well the hair can absorb moisture, low, medium or high porosity, and helps determine the types of products that work best for hydration.

Hair density refers to how thick or thin hair strands are on the scalp, affecting volume and product choice.

Elasticity measures the hair’s ability to stretch and return to its original shape, influencing the need for strengthening or moisturizing treatments.

Lastly, texture—straight, wavy, curly or coily—plays a key role in determining styling needs and product formulation.

HappI: Customized solutions have been discussed for years. How practical are these on a large scale?

VvH: Customized haircare is indeed gaining traction, but it is moving toward personalization via quizzes and apps that analyze hair. Artificial intelligence-powered algorithms recommend products based on individual hair type, hair condition and preferences. Fully customized products and their large-scale implementation still have challenges.

Customization often requires a wide range of ingredients to accommodate different hair concerns from dry and frizzy to oily and thinning hair. Meeting these diverse needs while keeping formulations consistent and effective yet complying with regulations is a significant hurdle. One of the challenges is scaling up production while maintaining cost efficiency. Personalized or custom haircare involves small-batch production, which is more expensive than mass production. Ingredient sourcing can be impacted by sustainability concerns, as more consumers demand eco-friendly and cruelty-free options.

To create truly personalized haircare, accurate data about a person’s hair type, scalp condition, environmental factors and specific concerns must be collected with questionnaires or digital scans. With the given input you must ensure that the data gathered is accurate and that the customization process leads to effective results. But that can also raise the issue of privacy and how to safely store and use consumers’ personal information, especially as it pertains to sensitive data like health and hair conditions.

Customized solutions are feasible, particularly with the advancement of AI and data analytics. However, conducting it on a large scale requires huge investments in technology, logistics and ingredient sourcing. The key is finding the balance between mass production and personalized solutions, offering a wide variety of targeted products rather than one-size-fits-all.

Happi: What new ingredients have the most potential to get a foothold in the haircare space and why?

VvH: The haircare industry is rapidly evolving, with cutting-edge scientific techniques like bioengineering and biotechnology driving high-performance products that also embrace eco-conscious practices, offering sustainable solutions for consumers. Peptides are gaining popularity for their ability to strengthen and repair hair on the molecular level. These short chains of amino acids play a crucial role in improving the integrity of the hair shaft by deeply penetrating into the hair cuticle.

Bio-grown collagen, produced through bioengineering, offers a vegan alternative to animal-derived collagen. It mimics the structure and benefits of natural collagen that can support the health of the scalp and hair follicles, improve the overall strength and elasticity of hair, and promote hair growth.

Blue biotechnology and fermented ingredients (white biotechnology) are also gaining traction. Blue biotechnology utilizes marine organisms like algae and seaweed. They are rich in antioxidants, minerals, and amino acids that support scalp health, protect hair from environmental stress and promote growth. Fermented ingredients, produced through microorganisms, increase the bioavailability and potency of natural compounds, making them more effective in addressing scalp issues and promoting hair vitality.

Happi: Have you noticed demand for dry shampoos increasing? Or is there another type of haircare product outperforming the category? If so, why?

VvH: Dry shampoos have long provided convenience by extending the time between washes. However, there’s a noticeable shift toward products that offer more value, beyond just saving time. Consumers seek multitasking products—take our Keune Style Resetter, for example. This product, which isn’t an aerosol, offers resetting properties for the scalp but also nourishes the hair lengths, meeting the growing demand for solutions that cater to multiple needs in one.

Scalp care and hydrating products are gaining ground as consumers focus on scalp health. Products targeting scalp balance outperform traditional haircare solutions, reflecting a broader trend of more holistic haircare routines. Leave-in conditioners and hair serums are on the rise, offering convenience and targeted treatments for various concerns, from frizz control to nourishment. This shift is driven by consumers becoming more knowledgeable about hair health and preferring solutions that provide long-term, comprehensive benefits.

Happi: What hair maladies are on the rise? How can they be treated?

VvH: Hair thinning, brittleness and dryness are increasingly common issues, often linked to stress and environmental factors. Over-processing and environmental exposure to metals like copper and calcium can lead to discoloration, breakage, and brittleness, while pollutants accelerate oxidative stress, further damaging the hair. Since hair is biologically dead and cannot repair itself naturally, external treatments are essential for restoring its health. Products that target metal buildup, provide antioxidants, and offer protein treatments can strengthen hair, replenish moisture, and protect against future damage.

Alopecia, especially androgenetic alopecia, remains a major concern, often worsened by lifestyle factors like stress and diet, along with genetics. Medical treatments often focus on minoxidil for hair regrowth. In line with cosmetic regulations, we focus more on natural extracts and stem cell technologies. Natural ingredients support hair health by improving circulation and reducing inflammation. Meanwhile, stem cell technologies show significant promise in stimulating hair growth by promoting the repair and regeneration of hair follicles.

Happi: What about scalp conditions? In the US, scalp concerns have soared. Why and what can be done to treat them?

VvH: Scalp concerns, such as dandruff, oily scalp, dry scalp and thinning are, indeed,on the rise. These issues often stem from an imbalance in the skin’s microbiome, which is essential for maintaining a healthy scalp environment. A disrupted microbiome can lead to various conditions, making it clear that healthy hair starts with a healthy scalp.

Factors like pollution, stress and changes in personal care routines can disturb the scalp’s natural balance, worsening these issues. To address them, active ingredients like salicylic acid and zinc pyrithione can help manage flaking and inflammation. However, it’s important to not only treat these conditions but prevent them by maintaining a balanced scalp ecosystem.

Providing your scalp with prebiotics can support its microbiota, promoting the growth of beneficial flora that helps keep the scalp in balance. There’s also growing interest in scalp exfoliators and balancing shampoos that eliminate buildup and restore moisture, which is crucial for long-term scalp health. Alongside topical treatments, a holistic approach, including a balanced diet, proper hydration and minimizing heat damage, can play a vital role in preventing scalp imbalances and promoting overall hair wellness.

van’t Hof will present in the Marketing Trends Theatre at In-Cosmetics Global on Thursday, April 10 from 14:30-15:15 in a session entitled: The Future of Haircare – Precision & Science-driven Solutions for Every Strand.

In-Cosmetics Global returns to RAI Amsterdam, The Netherlands, April 8-10, 2025. For more information and to register to attend, visit here.