Biotechnology brings real benefits to a host of industries, including beauty and personal care. According to analysts, the biotech skincare market is growing 5.8% a year and will exceed $8.25 billion by 2031. More impressive, the global biotech ingredients sector is growing 7.8% a year and will approach $3.7 billion by 2030. Much of the increase will come in the skincare category, according to industry observers.

With biotech top-of-mind for cosmetic chemists, the New York Chapter of the Society of Cosmetic Chemists (NYSCC) created a one-day symposium on the topic. The Symposium, Demystifying Biotechnology: 360 Degree Look from Ingredient to Brand, took place earlier this month in Jersey City, NJ. The roster of speakers included top formulating chemists, raw material suppliers and marketing executives. The Symposium was organized by co-chairs Anne Young, Beauty Actives, and Johanna Gigliotti, Deveraux Specialties.

Biotechnology Overview

Krupa Koestline, founder and CEO, KKT Labs, opened the symposium with a statement and a question. “Biotechnology enables us to harness nature, instead of harvest it,” she told attendees. “What took us so long to get here?”

Biotechnology is sustainable. “Old” chemistry relies on extraction and synthetics. It can be riddled with variability, noted Koestline. In contrast, biotechnology relies on fermentation and recombinant molecules. It is precise and cell-derived. The biotech toolbox includes microbes to produce specific molecules and compounds. It uses cells grown in controlled environments to produce pure, targeted proteins. Finally, biotechnology leverages enzyme technology to enable cleaner, more efficient chemical transformations.

The benefits of fermentation include enhanced purity and consistency, sustainability and increased efficacy. Moreover, microorganisms can be engineered or selected to produce unique, active ingredients not easily obtainable through other chemical synthesis or extraction methods. It opens the door to novel compounds. The beauty industry relies on four types of ferments, lysates, filtrates or supernatants, extracts and postbiotics.

Beauty companies are already harnessing microbial fermentation to create hyaluronic acid. Others are creating identical collagen through genetically-engineered yeast, to provide a vegan, allergen-free alternative to animal-derived collagen. And some suppliers leverage the power of beneficial microbes to produce probiotic-derived metabolites such as ectoin, which strengthen the skin’s natural defenses.

“Precision fermentation genetically engineers the microorganism to focus its energy and enzymatic machinery on producing one specific molecule with high yield and purity,” explained Koestline. “This process allows us to create ingredients that are molecularly identical to their natural counterparts, such as recombinant human collagen. The process is free from animal or environmental impact and reproducible batch after batch.”

Four To Watch

According to Koestline, four companies are dramatically reshaping the biotechnology landscape via their novel processes. Lipotrue’s transient expression system enables plants to produce biomimetic human proteins and protein fragments. Core Biogenesis uses a patented process to produce growth factors from whole plants, naturally encapsulated in oleosomes. Solabia uses fermentation and enzyme technology to produce novel functionals. Finally, Arcaea/Future Society modifies yeast to produce scents of extinct plants.

Koestline highlighted several emerging methods impacting biotechnology. CRISPR-Cas9 gene-editing technology allows for highly precise modifications within an organism’s genome. In cosmetics, it can involve optimizing microbial strains for enhancing production of active ingredients, or designing organisms to produce novel compounds with specific anti-aging or protective properties not previously accessible at scale. Metabolic engineering reprograms cellular pathways to redirect an organism’s metabolism toward the overproduction of a desired cosmetic compound. This can significantly increase yields of ingredients like hyaluronic acid, squalene or specific antioxidants. Biosynthesis of novel compounds enables researchers to create new, bio-inspired molecules or known compounds that are difficult to source naturally or synthesize chemically. Finally, artificial intelligence and machine learning accelerate the identification of novel compounds and predict their efficacy and safety.

Despite all the promise of biotechnology, Koestline warned that challenges remain.

“While the potential is limitless, the processes of cost optimization, industrial-scale purification and widespread consumer education remain critical hurdles to overcome,” concluded Koestline.

Exosome Essentials

Exosomes are everywhere in skincare these days. They promise to reduce wrinkles and improve hydration. Exosomes even skin tone by stimulating collagen and elastin production. They have wound-healing, anti-aging, anti-bacterial and anti-inflammatory properties, explained Daniel Pando Rodriguez, CEO and co-founder, Nanovex Biotechnologies and INdermal. 

In wound-healing, plant exosomes increase production of collagen I, collagen III and hyaluronate synthase in fibroblasts. They also induce the proliferation and migration of endothelial cells, epithelial cells and dermal fibroblasts. Their anti-aging properties can be attributed to their ability to decrease expression of MMP12, MMP13 and NOTCH3. All of them  decompose collagen and increase when exposed to UVB. Exosomes’ antioxidant properties include reduction of intracellular ROS and regulation of the expression of genes that affect oxidative stress. Exosomes also prevent oxidative stress in human cells. 

Still, plant exosomes have limitations, admitted Rodriguez. The concentration of exosomes in living organisms is very low. Natural exosomes have a limited ability to penetrate the skin and to provide a controlled release targeting a specific cosmetic site.

“They can’t be customized,” warned Rodriguez. “Exosomes obtained from plants are what they are. They cannot be modified or adapted to the clients’ needs.”

Moreover, plant exosome production is often affected by natural factors such as climate, season and region. And their uptake usually varies among plant sources. 

To overcome these limitations, he recommended biomimetic exosomes. These natural materials are manufactured with compounds obtained directly from plants. They can be customized and encapsulate other actives in high concentration. Rodriguez said biomimetic exosomes are exceptional delivery systems. They improve the efficiency of cosmetic actives by up to 20 times.

His company created an exosome based on Chamomile, Sage, Nasturtium and Greater Burdock to deliver Azelaic acid, an anti-acne active that acts as an anti-inflammatory, antioxidant and antibacterial. An anti-aging product, based on Maritime pine, delivers Bakuchiol, which stimulates collagen synthesis, improves skin cell turnover, smoothes wrinkles and reduces hyperpigmentation, yet is gentler than retinol.

Regulatory Advice

Clearly biotechnology is promising. But before chemists head for the bench they may need a reality check. Simone Swafford PhD, founder, Vogue Regulatory, provided just that.

“I see a lot of novel claims,” she told attendees. “Let’s ground ourselves in the regulations.”

That grounding starts with both the US Food and Drug Administration and the Federal Trade Commission. 

“Both agencies work really well together,” said Swafford. “They have a shared partnership when it comes to claims. Both agencies support enforcement. It’s not just FDA. It’s not just FTC. It’s both.”

The FDA Food Drug & Cosmetic Act defines “drugs” and “cosmetics.” It also introduces other important regulatory definitions such as “adulterated,” “misbranded” and “interstate commerce.” The Modernization of Cosmetic Regulations Act (MoCRA) of 2022 expanded FDA’s authority over cosmetics and personal care products. It established a framework for cosmetic regulations, including mandatory facility registration, product listing, safety substantiation and adverse event reporting. MoCRA mandates new requirements for labeling and Good Manufacturing Practices (GMPs), as well.

In contrast, the FTC regulates advertising under the Federal Trade Commission. Under the Act: 

• Advertising must be truthful and not deceptive;

• Advertisers must have evidence to back up their claims; and

• Advertisements cannot be unfair.

Furthermore, companies must have a “reasonable basis” for their claims, including objective evidence in support of the claims. In addition, FTC requires that the research must be “sufficient in quality and quantity based on standards generally accepted in relevant scientific fields.”

Swafford presented several case studies underscoring the difference between efficacy and reality. For example, supplier-provided test results include ingredients at 2-5%. But in reality, the finished formula contains just .1%. Minuscule use levels aren’t the only problem.

“Clinical studies must be robust,” she said. “I reviewed a study two years that only had two subjects!”

Swafford concluded with some recommendations:

• Soften claims to be more “cosmetic” in nature and avoid using claims with no cosmetic alternative.

• Reinforce claims with additional clinical testing. For key claims, utilize standards with a larger, more diverse population.

• If additional clinical testing is not feasible, search for well-conducted studies in the public domain. Sources include PubMed and ResearchGate. And pay for the full studies. “Don’t just use the abstract,” she urged.

In conclusion, Swafford noted the same laws that apply to finished goods producers also apply to raw material suppliers.

“Involve all key stakeholders early in the process, even your regulatory and legal colleagues. The best outcomes are usually derived from a shared team effort.”

A Clinical Approach

The importance of clinical science was echoed by Alisar Zhar PhD, senior director of clinical development, Revision Skincare, a physician-dispensed brand. She attributed the rise of the educated consumer to several factors, including dermatologists on TikTok and ingredient-focused blogs. As a result, terms such as “niacinamide,” “peptides” and “glycolic acid” are part of everyday beauty conversations.

“Consumers no longer just want ‘a moisturizer,’ they want to understand what’s in it and why it works,” explained Zhar.

At the same time, they distrust marketing hype, having grown weary of lofty promises without proof. Creams that promise to “erase wrinkles overnight,” raise red flags, she said. Instead, consumers are drawn to brands that share data, publish clinical trial results and explain exactly how ingredients work. In this climate, demand is soaring for dermatologist-created or endorsed brands. It’s all part of a wellness-first mindset.

“Skincare is no longer just about beauty. It’s about overall health and prevention,” said Zhar. “Just like people read nutrition labels, they now scrutinize ingredient lists to ensure products support long-term skin health.”

And that’s where biotechnology fits in. Zhar highlighted several articles in the consumer press heralding the benefits of biotech. Besides providing science-back skincare solutions, consumers are drawn to the idea of biological systems, organisms or derivatives serving as sustainable alternatives to “natural” ingredients. She reviewed several biotech-based ingredients including amino acids, peptides, enzymes and proteins. Zhar explained how Revision formulates these ingredients into a multi-corrective topical eye cream that, in clinical studies, demonstrated a 14% improvement in under-eye dark circles. She said Revision Skincare incorporates White, Marine and Plant-based biotechnologies into products to achieve clinical efficacy and safety across a broad patient population. In fact, in an in vitro study, Revision’s DEJ Daily Boosting Serum produced a 341% increase in collagen IV after seven days. Overall, the company has 41 products and most contain pre- and postbiotic ingredients.

Neurocosmetics & Biotech

Product efficacy is important. Yet, 70% of US personal care product users are willing to pay more for products with mood-boosting qualities, noted Manasi Chavan, head of innovation, North America, Croda Consumer Care. That’s because the global prevalence of stress increased since the pandemic. Chronic stress induces high levels of cortisol accumulation, disrupting sleep and accelerating aging processes such as telomere shortening, oxidative stress and immune suppression. No surprise, then, that the global longevity market is growing more than 10% a year and will reach $63 billion by 2035. 

According to Chavan: 

• 50% of US consumers believe lifestyle changes, not genetics, determine how well one ages;

• 80% prefer preventative, rather than reactive, approaches to aging; and

• 68% have made lifestyle changes in the past 12 months to impact their appearance.

“Consumers want to improve the quality of their skin and their mental health, and they want to do it holistically. They realize the skin and brain are connected,” asserted Chavan.

And that explains the growing popularity of neurocosmetics. The number of products launched globally with emotional benefits increased 95.6% from 2023 to 2024. Researchers use a variety of techniques, including galvanic skin response, electroencephalography, ballistocardiograph and eye tracking, to measure these emotions. Chavan detailed the benefits of *L. Rhamnosus GG (LGG), a probiotic strain. It reverses the effect of cortisol and results in improved expression of ROR and FOXN1, key transcription factors that ensure expression of epidermal differentiation markers. It increases melatonin expression in fibroblasts, and synchronizes clock genes and fixes circadian rhythm. 

“We conducted three clinical studies with 78 Caucasian and Asian volunteers. They applied a 3% LGG cream morning and night,” explained Chavan. “It instantly triggered positive emotions, enabling volunteers to calm down and unwind.”

After two weeks of use, it promoted restorative sleep. It increased skin resistance to physical stress, leading to smoother skin. 

“As you age, cortisol levels increase. It disrupts well-being, self-esteem and the circadian cycle,” concluded Chavan. “LGG is the complete package!”

Marketing 101

The Symposium’s final speaker, Erin Turner, founder, Erin Turner Marketing, insisted biotech ingredients are built to meet the needs of today’s beauty consumer. They are designed for function (effectiveness), formula and feel (experience) and footprint (eco-consciousness). Still, finished product companies must understand the product’s unique value proposition. They must roadmap with intent; i.e., invest in a few unique claims validated with customers.

“Plan to pivot,” warned Turner. “Work in quarterly cycles so you can shift messages or assets as feedback comes in.”

Creating a story that sticks and scales is critical for success, too. 

“Data won’t sell your product. It’s about positioning your product around the problem it solves.”

As Symposium speakers and attendees can attest, biotechnology solves myriad problems for suppliers, formulators and consumers.

Tom Branna is the former editor of Happi. He’s covered the global beauty, personal care and home care industry for more than 30 years. In his new role, he is consulting for suppliers and formulators in the industry. His email is tbranna@verizon.net.