Building a functional, aesthetically pleasing hair care product is both art and science. The best products are the result of a formulator’s creativity and their knowledge of chemistry unleashed simultaneously in the lab.

The New York Society of Cosmetic Chemists (NYSCC) picked an apropos setting to gather the industry for its February education event: “Driving the Future of Hair Care: Product Development Powered by Innovation.” NYSCC took over the Montclair Art Museum on Feb. 24 for an exploration of hair care science.

The sold-out gathering was the first with NYSCC Chair Anushka Nadkarni of Bentley Labs at the helm of the organization. Mythili Nori of BASF was the education chair.

Speakers explored hair care formulation from their personal perspectives, as an independent formulation consultant, as scientists working at the brand level, and as a contract manufacturer.

The first speaker was Roselin Rosario-Meléndez, PhD, founder of RRM Inventive Solutions Hub, LLC. She provided insight into current trends and ideas for future product development informed by her consultancy work with entrepreneurs and solopreneurs.

Rosario-Meléndez noted some recurring themes that have surfaced in her practice: interest in unconventional concepts, intentional performance, simplicity and the blurring of the lines between hair care and skin care.

She said many clients come to her with unique ideas for products that are grounded in a desire to solve an unmet need. And while some of these entrepreneurs may lack scientific and formulation knowledge (and a robust marketing budget), they often have a community behind them that wants to see them succeed, she said.

The move towards simplicity and reduced complexity in formulations was noted by Rosario-Meléndez. As a consultant, she educates her clients about what makes a formulation safe and effective.

The desire for a short ingredient list may not be the approach she, as a chemist, would take when building a product, “but we need to recognize that there is a population out there and this is important to them,” she said.

Formulators, she said, can balance the formulation’s robustness with multifunctional ingredients and actives.

According to Rosario-Meléndez, scalp care is no longer niche. She noted a shift in this sector away from correction to prevention.

Further, she sees room for innovation in “no-wash day” products. Not everyone washes their hair every day, with lifestyle, cultural and religious reasons shaping behavior, said Rosario-Meléndez.

Rosario-Meléndez also discussed growing interest in climate-adaptive hair care products as well as dietary supplements for hair.

The Architecture of Hair

During her presentation, Renuka Rathi, senior scientist at Olaplex, discussed the architecture of keratin, the chemistry of damage and molecular precision of covalent repair.

The integrity of healthy hair is defined by its surface properties, specifically the 18-MEA layer, a covalently bonded lipid monolayer that serves as the first line of defense, Rathi noted.

According to Rathi, 18-MEA does not regenerate. Once it is stripped (by high pH or bleach) it is gone; the hair shifts from hydrophobic to hydrophilic, resulting in porous, rough and frizzy hair.

She then asked the audience a question: “Who has had a bad hair day that affected their mood that day?” Many in the crowd raised their hands—as did Rathi, who then provided some data about consumer sentiment.

Rathi said 70% of consumers report that their hair directly impacts their professional confidence.   

“When we repair the hair structurally, we are not just repairing it. We are not just improving the material property. We are giving someone back their confidence and their professional presence. And that’s why this science matters,” she said.

The happiness that comes from a good hair day, unfortunately, is always under attack, Rathi noted. Primary stressors include chemical, environmental and mechanical damage. They all share the same endpoint: disulfide bond cleavage and F-layer damage, she said.

Damage is not just breakage, it is a “fundamental shift” in surface chemistry that compromises the hair protective mechanisms and structural integrity, according to Rathi.

“Simple surface treatment equals temporary masking; covalent repair equals structural restoration. Treating the surface and the cortex together is critical. One without the other fails,” Rathi said.

Rathi discussed the future direction of hair care, noting that there will be a shift from reactive to preventative rituals. In particular, she noted the following:

• Life Stage Specialization: Targeted treatments for hormonal hair changes (postpartum/menopause) using signal peptides and neuro-cosmetic actives
• Climate-Adaptive Resilience: Engineering for “weather proof” systems that maintain fiber equilibrium against extreme humidity fluctuations and escalating UV intensity
• “Skintellectual” Diagnostic Tech: Utilizing in-silico data and AI-driven scalp scanners to provide clinical proof of structural integrity
• 18-MEA Mimicry: Utilizing bio-identical lipids (ceramides) to reinforce the hair’s natural hydrophobic barrier before damage occurs—shifting from repair to prevention at the lipid level

“At Olaplex, we believe that by stabilizing the covalent foundation of hair, we provide a canvas for every form of self-expression, regardless of shape, texture or history,” Rathi concluded.

Additional Presentations

A substantial storm that dumped up to 2 feet of snow on the greater New York City area kept some speakers from making it to Montclair, NJ for the event. But they and NYSCC were able to quickly pivot. Moe Witwit, vice-president-global technical solitons at kdc/one, as well as Dionicia Torres, senior R&D scientist with Unilever, recorded their presentations, which were shown on the large screen inside the venue.

NYSCC’s Next Events

NYSCC’s next event is “The Beauty We Build: DIY‑ing DEI in Beauty,” which will be held March 19 from 5:30–8:30 p.m. at the Maxwell Social House in New York City.

NYSCC’s flagship event—Suppliers’ Day—is May 19-20 in New York City.

More info: www.nyscc.org