To promote the benefits of betaine in skincare formulas, IFF teamed with Victoria Fu and Gloria Lu, co-founders of Chemist Confessions. In this Happi interview the former L’Oréal cosmetic chemists and Bi Fen Lee, digital marketing manager, personal care, IFF, discuss their partnership.

Happi: Is this the first time IFF has teamed with influencers? If so, why? What made you select Chemist Confessions?

Bi Fen Lee: This is the first time IFF has collaborated with influencers within our active and functional ingredients part of the business. Recent data shows that in the past five years, only 0.03% of new skincare product launches have included osmolytes in their claims. Additionally, a social media poll revealed that 61% of respondents associate the INCI name betaine—a key osmolyte—with foaming, rather than its actual skin benefits like moisturization and barrier support. This highlights a significant awareness gap, and voices like Chemist Confessions play a crucial role in bridging it. With their background in cosmetic science and experience at a major consumer brand, they have a unique ability to translate complex scientific concepts into engaging, accessible content that resonates with both experts and everyday consumers. That’s why they’re the ideal partner to help raise awareness around the benefits of osmolytes like betaine and make skincare science more approachable.

Reinforcing the Skin Barrier

Happi: How can osmolytes help reinforce skin barrier? How can osmolyte contribute to skin hydration?

Gloria Lu: Osmolytes are small, naturally occurring organic molecules that help cells balance water under stress. In skin, they help keratinocytes regulate water flow, restore cell volume through osmosis, and strengthen tight junctions by stabilizing proteins. This multi-faceted mechanism tackles water loss right at the source. Unlike hyaluronic acid (a surface-level humectant) or squalane (a barrier-supporting emollient), osmolytes like betaine hydrate and protect on three fronts.

Stronger Barrier Function: Osmolytes such as betaine have been shown to increase the expression of tight junction proteins (e.g., Claudin-1, Claudin-4, Occludin), transmembrane proteins which fortify the connections between skin cells and reduce transepidermal water loss (TEWL). This leads to better moisturized skin and reduced visible dryness.

Cellular-Level Hydration: Unlike traditional moisturizers that sit on the skin’s surface, osmolytes penetrate and work within keratinocytes to regulate water balance by osmosis. This dual action delivers both immediate and long-term hydration.

Stress Protection: Osmolytes act as “chemical chaperones,” protecting proteins from denaturation. This helps skin cells maintain their structure and function even in harsh environments.

Easy to Use

Happi: How easy is it to work with Genencare OSMS BA Betaine, which is a major osmolyte?

Victoria Fu: Thanks to IFF’s extensive testing, we decided to include their Genencare OSMS BA betaine in the second generation of our Aquafix Hydrating Water Gel. From a skin benefits standpoint, it was an easy choice—betaine beautifully reinforces Aquafix’s long-term skin barrier support. On the formulation side, we were initially hesitant to layer more actives into an already active-packed formula. But Genencare OSMS BA was very easy to work with. Its crystalline, highly water-soluble form integrates seamlessly into our water-based serum. And because it’s such a highly purified form of betaine, it didn’t affect the product’s color or odor. As a bonus, it even helped reduce the overall stickiness of the formula. While we used it in a water-based serum, betaine’s versatility makes it suitable for a wide range of product types—from rinse-offs to emulsions. The main formulation consideration is pH: betaine isn’t recommended for use in high pH systems above 8.

Happi: What is the recommended dosage of use in a formula?

Victoria Fu: The recommended dosage from IFF is between 2-5%. We’re using 3% Genencare OSMS BA Betaine in our second generation of Aquafix Hydrating Water Gel.

Find out more about osmolytes such as betaine here.