Roziani Zulkifli, In-Cosmetics Global

Recently, In-Cosmetics Global held its first Co-Lab event in London. Gathering leading experts in cosmetics product formulation and development from across the UK, the event provided an open platform for attendees to discuss pressing challenges, emerging opportunities and trends for sustainable practices and products in the cosmetics industry.

Nina Foster, senior communications and research manager at The Carbon Trust shed light on the urgency of sustainability in the beauty and personal care sector. Drawing from the 2023 research report, Greenhouse Gloss,[1] she highlighted the sector’s significant environmental impact, noting that it currently accounts for 1% of global greenhouse gas emissions – a significant figure, especially when compared to the UK’s contribution of 1% of global emissions.[2] With the global beauty market expected to grow by 6% annually through 2028, according to McKinsey & Co.,[3] the potential for a growing environmental impact is clear.

She pointed out that the beauty industry not only contributes to issues like deforestation, through the sourcing of ingredients like palm oil but also faces supply chain vulnerabilities due to climate change. Common cosmetic resources such as Argan oil from Morocco and Shea butter from West Africa are increasingly at risk from extreme weather events. Foster concluded that the industry holds a unique opportunity to be part of the solution.

Accountability in the Industry

Discussing progress since the publication of Greenhouse Gloss, Foster shared that nine of the 10 companies included in the report – such as L’Oréal, Unilever and P&G – have committed publicly to a Net Zero target. However, just three of those companies have set an independently validated Net Zero target.

Conversely, breakout sessions revealed that setting publicly available sustainability targets may not be the most viable option for smaller cosmetics organizations. Lianna Soffe, brand director at Ruby Hammer explained, “While we haven’t made any public commitments or targets, we’re doing everything we can to be sustainable.”

This sentiment was shared amongst experts, suggesting that more needs to be done to support small and medium cosmetics businesses in their journey to a sustainable future.

Tanita Ketchen, NPD and regulatory manager at Laurelle London, added that one of the biggest obstacles is getting suppliers and internal leaders to set sustainability targets and that it is often difficult to secure organisational-level buy-in.

Meanwhile, Jo Farrow, product development director at Hair by Sam McKnight, highlighted that when considering these changes, cosmetic businesses must evaluate all the other costs associated with any amendments, such as retesting which can be expensive especially when clinical trials are involved.

Soffe mentioned that industry-wide initiatives could “really help” smaller cosmetics businesses to succeed in their sustainability efforts. The experts all agreed that smaller businesses could benefit from more collaboration with larger businesses.

Sustainability: A Beauty Consumer’s Dilemma

Another central topic at the Co-Lab was the extent to which consumers truly prioritize sustainability. Data from across the board consistently indicates a desire for sustainable cosmetics products. For example, a 2020 survey from the British Beauty Council[4] found that 41% of consumers felt guilty about the environmental impact of beauty and grooming products.

Despite this, industry professionals noted that, in some cases, other factors can take precedence in purchasing decisions. Efficacy and performance, for example, were unanimously cited as more critical considerations than sustainability.

Timings and speed also play a crucial role, often leading brands to place unrealistic demands on ingredient manufacturers. Monpure COO Fred Edwards highlighted the sometimes-conflicting expectations, wanting products to be sustainable and eco-friendly, while also expecting them to be available almost immediately.  Barbara Brockway, scientific advisor, cosmetics & personal care, at Barbara Brockway Consulting echoed this, highlighting how the industry is “always under pressure from brands to do things in weeks when we know it takes months.”

Meanwhile Estrella Corral, cosmetic market trends and innovations specialist at HCT by KDC/One, advised that “This doesn’t take into consideration testing, more eco-friendly shipping methods and other important processes.”

Beyond the Buzzwords: Common Sustainability Claims

Sustainability claims play a key role in the formulation and marketing of beauty products across the globe. Claims encompass a wide range of attributes, from plant-based ingredients to biodegradability and the absence of microplastics. As part of her session, Dr. Barbara Olioso, managing director of The Green Chemist Consultant, shared the most common sustainability claims being used by cosmetics brands.[5] The top three claims were ‘natural’ origin, biodegradability, and being free from microplastics.

Throughout the breakout sessions, the experts agreed that the breadth of sustainability claims are becoming more convoluted and complex for the consumer to understand. “Biodegradability,” specifically, was mentioned by the experts as a red herring, with a significant portion of consumers confusing the term with “compostable.” Research suggests that about half of consumers have trouble distinguishing the terms “biodegradable” and “compostable.”[6] Experts agreed that there certainly needs to be more cohesion around sustainability claims, and a greater emphasis on consumer education to ensure that sustainable products get disposed of properly.

Innovation in Packaging

The final speaker of the day was Paul Jenkins, founder and managing director of ThePackHub. He presented some of the latest and biggest packaging innovations helping brands reduce carbon emissions. Case studies included using recycled materials or biomaterials, improving stacking efficiency for transport, reducing the weight and size of packaging, and using a refill system.

Discussion around refillable products was notable in the breakout sessions. Tuna Ziver Yöney, founder of Ziver Organiques Skincare advised that refills are only sometimes a viable option and that he’d encountered some resistance to the idea of refills. Meanwhile, Ketchen suggested that because refills aren’t a big trend yet, companies probably won’t invest until the concept is fully established. Soffe recommended that to be successful, refills must be convenient and incentivized for consumers.

Victoria Brownlie, chief policy & sustainability officer at the British Beauty Council, also weighed in on the topic.

“Sustainability in the beauty industry is a key issue for the British Beauty Council,” she explained. “We established the Sustainable Beauty Coalition as a result of our Courage to Change Report in 2020 which outlined the need for industry to stop working in silos and look at more effective ways of collaborating if we are to meet our shared challenges and reduce our environmental impact.

“Creating a truly sustainable beauty industry is not just an environmental imperative, it is a strategic business decision. By embracing sustainability, we can meet consumer demand, enhance brand reputation, improve cost efficiency and prepare for future regulations.

“Opportunities for industry to come together to identify and resolve barriers to sustainable business practices can help build a future that is not only beautiful but also responsible and profitable, which we support wholeheartedly.”

Final Thoughts on Greenhouse Gas Emissions

The event explored the steps the industry must take to reduce its greenhouse gas emissions. Discussions focused on the biggest barriers facing (particularly small and medium) businesses in the cosmetics industry, when it comes to achieving Net Zero. The experts agreed that greater industry collaboration and standardization across different regional markets is essential.

Meanwhile, the experts agreed that more effective consumer education is needed to ensure sustainable practices are being implemented, beyond the point of sale and throughout the entire product lifecycle. Further, the session explored the need to tackle consumer misunderstanding and ensure that messaging is clearer, for example, misinformation and the use of technical INCI ingredients deterring some consumers.

As the Co-Lab experts closed the day, the unanimous agreement was that while the beauty industry impacts the environment, it can also hold the key to the solution.

About the Author

Roziani Zulkifli is exhibition director of In-Cosmetics Global. For information on the In-Cosmetics Global Co-Labs, click here.

In-Cosmetics Global returns April 8-10, 2025 at RAI Amsterdam, The Netherlands, bringing together top suppliers and manufacturers to inspire the future of cosmetics. For more information about the event, please visit the website here. Click here to learn more about the Sustainability Zone and Sustainability Zone Forum, where representatives from both The Carbon Trust and ThePackHub will be speaking

[1] https://www.carbontrust.com/our-work-and-impact/guides-reports-and-tools/greenhouse-gloss-is-the-beauty-industrys-commitment-to-tackling-climate-change-more-than-skin-deep

[2] https://commonslibrary.parliament.uk/uk-and-global-emissions-and-temperature-trends/#:~:text=The%20UK%20ranked%2017th,followed%20by%20transport%20with%2025%25.

[3] https://www.mckinsey.com/industries/consumer-packaged-goods/our-insights/the-beauty-boom-and-beyond-can-the-industry-maintain-its-growth

[4] https://issuu.com/hubbubuk/docs/the-courage-to-change_20_2_?fr=sODYxYjIxNTU5MzU

[5] Mintel GNPD (Global New Products Database) Europe.

[6] https://www.packagingdive.com/news/compost-recycling-report-BPI-closed-loop-partners/686039/#:~:text=The%20survey%20found%20that%20about,put%20compostable%20packaging%20in%20a