Future Chemists Formulate Upcycled Body Cream at NYSCC Suppliers’ Day Workshop

The New York Society of Cosmetic Chemists’ Suppliers’ Day 2022 drew thousands of executives in the beauty and personal care industries to the Jacob K. Javits Center in New York City on May 3 and 4.

 

While hundreds of exhibitors were busy mingling on the Expo floor, about two dozen college students donned lab coats, gloves and goggles in a separate classroom to concoct upcycled moisturizing body creams during a morning workshop on day one. 

 

The group made up the “Future Chemists” and included students from Fairleigh Dickinson University, Fashion Institute of Technology, Florida Atlantic University, Kean University, Long Island University, Manhattan College, Michigan State University, Montclair State University, Muhlenberg College, Rutgers University, University of Cincinnati, University of Houston, University of North Texas and University of Toledo.

 

“I would like to do formulating,” said Ava Perkins, a junior at the University of Toledo, College of Pharmacy and Pharmaceutical Sciences. “I’m really passionate about cosmetic science outreach. I think so many people should know what cosmetic science is, just because this is such a cool industry. I love the formulation aspect of it, but I also like the education as well.” 

 

Perkins added that educating consumers about active ingredients and product function is paramount. Of equal importance, she said, is making an informed decision about purchasing products with certain ingredients before being swayed by popular opinion. 

 

“Sulfates and parabens really aren’t as bad as people think, in my opinion,” noted Perkins.

 

Meaghan Mancini, of Michigan State University, expressed her desire to go into the fragrance side of cosmetic chemistry. Mancini was inspired to pursue this field of study after being encouraged to join STEM class in high school. 

 

“I also want to get into makeup and eventually create my own brand of makeup,” said Mancini. “And since [studying] chemistry and the Periodic Table, I wanted to make an actual palette with colors with all the different molecules. There are so many different uses that I think it would be a good thing to get into because it’s always changing.” 

 

During NYSCC Suppliers’ Day, Mancini and her peers were tasked with creating an upcycled body cream using repurposed ingredients that would have otherwise been added to the waste stream.  Instead, students created a vitamin E-rich moisturizer. 

 

In welcoming the students to Suppliers’ Day, NYSCC Chair Giorgio Dell’Acqua noted that workshop participation increased 25% from last year.

“This program, like other NYSCC programs, fosters young students and professionals. It’s very important for the board. To have you here with your lab coat ready to go is personal success and success of the NYSCC.”

 

At the Bench

 

Before they got to work in groups of three, Cameron Rambone, of IKA Works Inc. lectured on benchtop formulation considerations including critical material attributes like particle shape, size and charge, ingredient use percentage and material viscosity. Students were also schooled on critical process parameters, including vessel temperature and volume and mixing speed. They learned about the water bath versus dry heat and how to use the IKA Eurostar 60 Control and the different mixing patterns: axial, radial and tangential.  

 

Sharonda Newsome, director of scientific affairs, at Happy Farm Botanicals in Maryland, guided the students through their making of the cream and lectured on the formulation process. This includes several steps from defining the product, its function, and the desired final aesthetics; researching ingredients and market trends; drafting and executing theoretical formulas; and testing. Choosing the product function and aesthetic (such as brightening or hydrating and fast-absorbing or rich) determines the raw materials and ingredients being used, she said. 

 

The upcycled body cream formula included glycerin, a humectant from Katonah, an emulsifier from Seppic, emollients from Katonah, LBB Specialties, Jarchem and Hallstar/Dewolf, an antioxidant from Glenn Corp, a skin conditioning agent from LBB Specialties, and a preservative from Ashland. Students wrote down all the ingredients they needed for each of the four phases before they began measuring them out and prepared their water bath for mixing and heating. 

 

The students utilized a top digital powerful lab mixer, propeller blade, two hot plates, beakers, weigh dishes, spatulas, tongue depressors for weighing, pipettes, Kimwipes, a measuring scale, one- and two-ounce airless pumps, plastic wrap and large plastic syringes to dispense their final product into jars to take them home. 

 

Making her rounds, Newsome was impressed with the students’ diligence and meticulous measuring skills.  

 

“I see you guys are taking your time measuring precisely. I’m going to need some new lab techs,” she quipped.  

 

The moisturizing cream had a gel-like consistency before the antioxidant, skin conditioning agent and preservative were added consecutively to create a thick cream. The pH and viscosity of which they tested before cooling it and dispensing into small jars. After massaging a dollop of the cream into their hands all were pleasantly surprised by the results. 

 

“It feels like Curel,” remarked one student.

 

“It screams luxury,” interjected another. “It’s nice. It’s not too heavy and is non-greasy.” 

 

While the students were happy to see the fruits of their labor, it was only right to christen their concoction.

 

One student didn’t have to think twice, as its name came to her like a tip-of-tongue phenomenon. 

 

“HMB Cream,” she said with conviction, naming it for the initials of her lab partners: Haroon, Meaghan and Bisera.

 

Perkins’ said the cream was luminous, but needed some helpful prompting from Happi who suggested the name “Luminous Day Cream.”

 

“You should do the marketing for us,” she joked. 

 

When we asked her how much her moisturizing cream would retail for, she didn’t shortchange its worth.

 

“At least $40,” she said.