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At the Intersection of Wellness & Beauty

Fashion Group International's Beauty U Beauty Symposium examined what drives innovation in beauty and what supports its staying power in a changing environment.

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By: Nancy Jeffries

Writer and Editorial Development

Photo: Frank Rocco Photography

Wellness Living Panel: (l-r): Cleo Davis-Urman, Co-Founder, Barrière; Yarden Horowitz, Co-Founder, Spate; Margaux Anbouba, Sr. Beauty & Wellness Editor, Vogue; Ian Ginsberg, President/Founder, C.O. Bigelow Chemists, Inc.; and Aamir Attarwala

Beauty partnerships are proliferating; community building and brand aesthetics are supporting their growth. Fashion Group International (FGI) explored this phenomenon, and more, at its Beauty U Beauty Symposium, at the Fashion Institute of Technology’s (FITKatie Murphy Amphitheater last month. The event examined what drives innovation in beauty and what supports its staying power in a changing environment. Speakers demonstrated that passion, drive and vision are integral to success, but elements of surprise and ingenuity keep it exciting.

The Beauty Symposium’s second theme explored wellness practices and functional beauty products. Moderator Margaux Anbouba, senior beauty & wellness editor, Vogue, welcomed panelists Aamir Attarwala, principal, Nemat Perfumes; Cleo Davis-Urman, co-founder, Barrière; Yarden Horowitz, co-founder, Spate; and Ian Ginsberg, president/founder, C.O. Bigelow Chemists, Inc.

Ginsberg said C.O. Bigelow serves the community with both pharmacy and beauty.

“Validating wellness as a state of being and through the generations, we continue to lean into it. In that respect, nothing has changed and we continue to be in the feel-good business,” he explained.

Davis-Urman noted the relationship between how we look and how we feel.

“There’s a community and identity component there. With our products, we inspire conversation around healthy habits, taking care of yourself and having conversations about being proactive.”

The Beauty of Patches

Barrière produces patches containing ingredients designed to deliver skin care benefits, boost immunity, enhance energy and provide formulations that deliver brain-boosting enhancement. Patches contain vitamins B7, B12, D and NAD (Nicotinamide Adenine Dinucleotide) a coenzyme found in all living cells; the patches are said to deliver solutions for sound sleep, healthy nail and hair growth and glowing skin.

The Brains & Beauty patch contains iron, vitamin B12, Biotin and Hyaluronic Acid. It is available in a selection of designs, including butterflies. The Skin Support patch hydrates, repairs and protects skin from the inside out. It contains Niacin, Biotin and Hyaluronic Acid. It features fruit and floral artwork.

“We’re going to see more products taking wellness into account as part of their functionality. Vitamin D, the sunshine vitamin, for example, affects not only your physical body, but your mental health,” said Davis-Urman.

She noted growing consumer acceptance of supplementation, as well as a trend for de-stressing ingredients, including ashwagandha for anxiety and horse chestnut to reduce inflammation. As wellness patches gain popularity as functional and convenient methods of ingredient delivery, brand offerings are proliferating. They target areas including frown lines, under-eye depuffing, UV exposure detection and skin care concerns, including acne.

Ginsberg’s wellness approach focused on what works for an individual.

“As pharmacists, we have a specific vision regarding the difference between a drug and a cosmetic,” he said.

He noted the importance of structure and function, saying cosmetics making claims can say, “suggests function,” but highlights the importance of measurable data.

“We have a role in helping people understand what is measurable and what is not measurable,” said Ginsberg, acknowledging disparate views and experiences of wellness. “For some it’s a bath, or a ritual, for me it’s running. It’s what contributes to making you happy. But as a pharmacist, it’s important not to be fooled by something that may be popular,” stated Ginsberg.

Horowitz said Spate looks at how consumers search for brands, what they’re engaging with, and what they are purchasing.

“That is how we identify trends and how we can see consumers evolve.”

Stress, Sleep and Fragrance

She cited popular searches for fragrances like vanilla and matcha; and ingredients that tie into consumer need, like those associated with stress and sleep, including magnesium, which promotes relaxation and calms the nervous system.

Science-backed, results-oriented products and experiences continue to proliferate in the wellness space, and consumers seek ways to de-stress.

Vogue’s Anbouba said cortisol is trending. This steroid hormone plays a role in regulating the body’s response to stress. Too much cortisol negatively impacts skin. Topical products, anti-inflammation skincare, facial massage, aromatherapy and meditation are some of the ways consumers address cortisol production.

Attarwala of Nemat Perfumes, spoke to the wellness benefits of fragrance.

“Fragrance is why I live and breathe,” he said, and “consumers are looking for ways to ground themselves.” Attarwala. His family has crafted attars (traditional Indian perfumes), for 170 years, creates fragrances and perfume oils rooted in tradition. These concentrated oils are based on flowers and spices, and are prized in Indian tradition.

He acknowledged growing interest in traditional ingredients and practices combining with science.

“These things work. There’s the science that comes with fragrance, and the tradition. We have fragrance that needs to smell good, and if there’s a secondary benefit like de-stressing, that is great.”

Attarwala emphasized the importance of crafting products that are true to the company’s heritage. These formulas rely on rose water or vinegar as cooling mechanisms. He explained how some molecules affect cortisol levels and certain scents may have healing benefits.

“Every time I smell a Night Blooming Jasmine it takes me back to my childhood. It’s very de-stressing,” said Attarwala.

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