Dermocosmetics have long played an important part within the European skincare market but have recently grown in importance due to informed consumers demanding treatment-specific skincare products with scientifically backed formulas with the endorsement of a dermatologist or doctor. The category sits between mainstream cosmetics and dermatology and is attracting much interest from beauty brands operating in Europe.

What is special about the European market for dermocosmetics?

Historically, dermatologists have played an important role in shaping the European skincare landscape where pharmacies are trusted health and beauty destinations. In some European countries, if someone has a specific skin condition such as eczema, psoriasis or keratosis pilaris, they are more likely to go to their pharmacy for advice rather than visit their doctor. 

Connor Spicer, consultant at Euromonitor International, explains: “In countries like France and Greece, pharmacies are not just retail outlets but trusted advisors. Their association with healthcare professionals enhances the credibility of the products they stock making them ideal channels for dermocosmetics.” 

However, consumers do not always seek professional advice. According to the 2025 Euromonitor Voice of the Consumer: Beauty Survey, 26% of European respondents used a pharma/dermocosmetic hair or skincare product without consulting a healthcare professional, up from 23% in 2023. This aligns with the dermocosmetic space becoming increasingly saturated with brands claiming dermocosmetic features or a similar positioning. Rather than posing a problem, the proliferation of new brands may in fact throw up an opportunity for dermatologists and pharmacists to help consumers choose products that offer efficacy and safety, believes Spicer. 

Another research study, Innova’s Beauty & Personal Care Survey 2025, shows that 17% of consumers surveyed in Italy, France, Germany and the UK said that derma or doctor-founded products and brands appeal to them. 

“Science-backed claims are important for European consumers,” notes Theresa Yee, beauty trend forecaster and analyst for Innova’s Premium Market Reports. “Some 36% of consumers surveyed agree that they would spend more on skincare products backed by scientific claims.”

Dermatologists Are the New Influencers

Traditionally, French pharmacy brands have huge appeal and continue to do so, but there is a new wave of dermatologist or doctor brands gaining credibility. They include German doctor and self-confessed anti-inflammatory pioneer Dr. Barbara Sturm and Jamaican-born Dr. Rose Ingelton, whose multitasking formulas feature antioxidant fruit extracts inspired by Jamaica. 

“Dermatologists will continue to have a huge impact on the skincare sector as trust is at an all-time high and consumers increasingly want evidence-backed beauty products,” affirms Yee. 

Yee maintains that dermatologists have a huge influence on consumer purchasing decisions. “These experts are garnering a huge following on social media platforms such as TikTok and Instagram as people turn to dermatologists for skin health advice and education,” she said. 

Skincare Gets Personal

While TikTok has become the place that many consumers go for skin care advice, a more recent trend is for people to go straight to the professionals. 

GetHarley is a digital platform that connects consumers with an experienced practitioner who they can meet online for a consultation to discuss their skincare needs and concerns. These skin care specialists will recommend the products they believe in, some of which are only available through a qualified practitioner. Brands include Obagi, Exuviance Professional, Neostrata, Skinbetter Science and Intradermology, among others. 

Skin+Me, a personalized subscription service that diagnoses skin conditions, has been growing steadily over the past five years. The brand’s premise is that skin is constantly changing and so are its needs. A customer’s treatment plan offers consistent, transformative results and can be changed upon consultation and to suit an individual’s skincare need. 

Dermatologist-Backed Brands Making Waves

According to Euromonitor, L’Oréal-owned brands currently dominate the dermocosmetics space in Europe. These include CeraVe, which solidified its position as a leading European dermocosmetics skincare brand recording double-digit growth in 2024. Line extensions, including Advanced Repair Ointment in the United Kingdom, have helped expand CeraVe’s market presence and appeal. 

“The brand’s dermatologist-developed formulations, particularly those featuring ceramides, resonated strongly with health-conscious consumers seeking effective and affordable skincare solutions,” states Yee. 

A recent addition to the L’Oréal stable is Medik8, a British dermatological skincare brand that has roots in London’s Harley Street. This B Corp prides itself on visible results from the use of professional-grade active ingredients available without a doctor’s prescription. 

Yee pointed to several other dermocosmetic brands including Dr Sam and Remedy Skin, Mimetique and others.

Dr Sam’s is backed by Dr. Sam Bunting, a UK dermatologist who runs a clinic in Harley Street and consists of a range of products designed to address skin concerns such as acne, melasma and rosacea. 

Remedy Skin by Dr. Muneeb Shah (known as @dermdoctor on TikTok or @Doctorly on You Tube), launched in March 2024. Remedy Skin’s products focus on simple solutions and comprise all-in-one treatments that address common skin and scalp concerns and claim to deliver multi-product impact in a single remedy. 

Mimetique is a French dermocosmetic brand founded by cosmetic chemist Fabienne Sebaoun. Rooted in the principles of biomimicry, the brand focuses on skin-identical formulas that replicate the skin’s natural processes to enhance its health and vitality. 

BiotechBeauty claims to be the first certified microbiome-friendly make-up that is said to improve the skin barrier and skin microbiome with continued wear. 

“We have started to see premium brands developing more innovative solutions to cater for specific skin conditions such as keratosis pilaris, discoloration, eczema, psoriasis, scars and acne on the body,” observes Yee. She expects to see more mainstream brands tapping into this space with expert-backed and science-focused formulas targeted for the body. 

What’s the Prognosis?

There are good signs that dermocosmetic products will continue to perform well in Europe. In the US, CeraVe has entered hair care and is expected to follow suit in Europe. 

However, Spicer of Euromonitor warns that growth may not be as strong as expected. 

“The category is beginning to show signs of stagnation due to increased competition and non-dermocosmetic brands positioning products with dermocosmetic claims,” Spicer notes. 

He suggests that differentiation from imitators is one way that brands can fight back and enable dermatologists regain a footing in the space, such as through brand partnerships.

Imogen Matthews is a respected consultant, journalist and researcher who commentates on trends in the beauty industry. She regularly contributes to many of the world’s foremost beauty trade titles, has served on the Board of Cosmetic Executive Women (CEW UK) and won the prestigious Cosmetic Executive (UK) Achiever Award. Founded by Imogen in 1993, The Premium Market Report remains the only in-depth report to examine trends in the premium cosmetics, skincare and fragrance industry. www.imogenmatthews.co.uk