More than a decade ago dsm-firmenich decided to focus on CORNEOCARE^™ with a special interest in epidermal science. There was the belief that strong scientific knowledge on the epidermis is pivotal to addressing all major consumer concerns linked to skin health, and so ultimately to daily skin comfort. Skin is at the interface between the external world and the inner body. It is the body’s largest organ with the highest cell turnover. It protects us from dehydration (inside-out) and from harmful environmental stressors (outside-in). A healthy epidermis is perfectly balanced and is key to a comfortable everyday life. 

To better understand how the epidermis achieves this perfect balance, a holistic approach has been taken to consider the physiological key pathway and biochemical processes of the epidermis. Future scientific efforts in this direction are crucial to design next generation skin care actives. 

The initial work on CORNEOCARE^TM concentrated on the skin’s specific and highly relevant functions, i.e., acting as a natural barrier against external environmental stressors (exposome), regulating water loss, and maintaining the structural integrity and normal functions (homeostasis) of the stratum corneum. The focus was on the uppermost layers, predominantly the stratum corneum, of the skin and their connection with the external environment. 

These aspects remain key and are also part of the CORNEOCARE^™ 2.0 concept, but over the years additional aspects became relevant and needed to be included. The new concept extends the initial CORNEOCARE^™ to include all the epidermal layers below the Stratum Corneum and all the important biological activities that happen in the epidermis, such as proliferation and differentiation of keratinocytes and melanocytes, inflammation, and activation of epidermal immune cells. Neuronal stimulation through specific keratinocyte neuronal channels, or via direct triggering of epidermal nerve fibers, is also part of the new CORNEOCARE^™ 2.0 concept. 

In this new concept we extend our focus and knowledge to all the biological processes happening in the epidermis, from the outer layers’ interaction with the environment, to the communication between basal layer keratinocytes and the dermis via the epidermal/dermal junction. In fact, it is the communication between epidermis and dermis that is key to counteracting the signs of ageing. Towards the outside world, we put additional focus on the interaction of the epidermis with the skin microbiome. The stratum corneum and the skin microbiome have a dynamic and symbiotic relationship that is crucial for maintaining the health and integrity of the skin. Several factors are involved, and the interactions are complex. Barrier function, immune regulation, and microbial homeostasis are amongst the most important ones. 

One important part of this work was to differentiate from the initial CORNEOCARE^™ concept. The initial platform name was kept since it is widely recognized in the field and is already a distinctive marker of our scientific knowledge. With the new CORNEOCARE^™ 2.0, the consumer can expect solutions, tailored for specific skin concerns, that take into consideration all the different processes that regulate epidermal homeostasis. As part of the concept, we have identified five key benefit areas where we can combine solutions to improve the skin in the most holistic way possible. An example of one of these key benefits is addressing Sensitive Skin. Sensitive skin is caused by the co-occurrence of different issues. It begins when skin barrier function is somehow impaired and allows harmful aggravators to enter. Then the characteristic hyperactivation of the neuronal sensory fibers is triggered and the skin/brain axis perceives stinging and itching. Sensitive skin can also be linked to an aberrant activation of the inflammatory pathways that, together with the neuro-sensorial activation, trigger effects such as redness and burning sensations. In the new CORNEOCARE^™ 2.0 concept we tackle this multifaceted skin discomfort and can offer solutions that act on all the several aspects involved, from barrier protection and soothing, to anti-inflammation.

Under the new CORNEOCARE^™ 2.0 platform, single portfolio ingredients gain value, such one of our key vitamins, Niacinamide PC as multifunctional active. It has anti-ageing properties and the ability to improve skin tone by inhibiting melanosome transfer. Niacinamide PC protects skin from environmental stress by boosting cell energy production and repairing and protecting from damage by pollutants. It also acts in blemish care by reducing the appearance of acne. CORNEOCARE^™ 2.0 platform investigations show how Niacinamide PC has additional benefits of significantly improving skin resilience and strengthening the skin barrier function which we can now add to the list of Niacinamide PC functions. 

By broadening the CORNEOCARE^™ concept to include more than 40 ingredients from our portfolio, such as natural actives, vitamins, peptides, and biotech molecules, the new platform allows each to be more fully explored with the aim of covering all aspects responsible for healthy skin.

In this novel approach, key ingredients gained value and efficacy. An example is our natural hero ingredient ALPAFLOR^® EDELWEISS CB. Under this new broadened platform, we can explore all the benefits given by the extract; i.e., spanning from its antioxidant activity to the reduction of fine-lines and wrinkles.

Another example is our China registered SYN-UP^®, which is part of our peptide platform. In this case, SYN-UP^® not only has its main effect of strengthening the barrier through upregulating TGM1, but we now know it also promotes a healthy-looking skin by reducing Plasmin and Urokinase levels, while balancing key skin microbiome bacteria (S. aureus and S. epidermidis). In addition, studies show SYN-UP^® reduces skin sensitivity and redness by modulating the proinflammatory cytokines, CXCL5 and IL-8. Finally, it also helps to smooth and firm the skin by preventing Collagen IV degradation and promoting Collagen I synthesis.

These are just two examples of how key ingredients in our portfolio have gained importance by being analyzed under this new concept of epidermal science. 

We envision CORNEOCARE^™2.0 as the cornerstone that will uphold dsm-firmenich’s leadership in epidermal science for cosmetic skin actives. Building on the robust scientific expertise of this platform, dsm-firmenich will continue delivering effective solutions and clear, evidence-based guidance for achieving and maintaining healthy skin. By delving into a wide range of epidermal biological processes, our products will gain credibility through rigorous, expert-led research. With this scientific foundation, we will identify key strengths in our portfolio to address specific skin needs. Looking ahead, we aim to discover new molecules and explore emerging fields, creating the next generation of innovative, high-impact skin ingredients.

dsm-firmenich Beauty & Care

A House of Science beyond Wellbeing.

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