Consumers went overboard and over-the-top when it came to over-the-counter product purchases during the pandemic. Manic spending has subsided, but plenty of shoppers continue to load up on OTC acne skin care formulas, anti-dandruff shampoos and first aid ointments. No surprise that the National Association of Chain Drug Stores (NACDS), calls its member companies, “the face of neighborhood healthcare.”

According to results of an NACDS survey, 81% of adults in the US believe it is important for their state to update its policies to ensure that patients permanently have the same access to pharmacy vaccination, testing and treatment services that were available during covid-19. Additionally, 85% of adults said pharmacists are easy to access, the highest percentage of the tested options. And if consumers are counting on pharmacists to boost their health, they’re sure to purchase an array of creams, ointment, toothpaste and medicated rubs to improve their health, too.

One study concluded that more than two-thirds of US consumers said they have some sort of skin problem, but only 38% seek help from a dermatologist or other professional. And that’s a problem.

According to the American Academy of Dermatology, 7.5 million people in the US have psoriasis, 16 million have rosacea and 10% of people will develop eczema (atopic dermatitis) at some point in their lives.

“Atopic dermatitis is an itchy, inflammatory skin condition with a predilection for the skin flexures. It appears as a weak reddening of the skin associated with edema and vesicles,” observed Happi Columnist Paolo Giacomoni. “The itchiness can be quite annoying and one is happy to find OTC drugs to be used against eczema when needed.”

No wonder why people are walking drugstore and mass market aisles searching for solutions. The sales data certainly back that claim. According to Circana, skin care sales jumped 11.4% to nearly $5.5 billion last year (see chart, click here). Facial cleansers account for nearly 33% of skincare sales in food, drug and mass. Leading the way is CeraVe. The L’Oréal brand holds a 21.4% share of the market, well ahead of No. 2 Cetaphil (9.5%).

CeraVe surely built on its lead following an offbeat marketing campaign featuring actor Michael Cera, best known for his roles in “Arrested Development” and “Juno.” In January, Cera was spotted in a Brooklyn drugstore signing his name and putting stickers of his face on CeraVe containers. The news spread quickly on social media and just as quickly L’Oréal denied any association with the actor known for his awkward, offbeat characters in coming-of-age comedy films. Turns out, of course, that L’Oréal and Cera had teamed up for a teaser ahead of CeraVe’s first Super Bowl ad. In an episode of “The Really Good Podcast,” featuring Cera, Bobbi Althoff asks the actor about his links to CeraVe.

“Let’s just say I have some skin in the game,” Cera cheekily replies. 

Cetaphil is a distant No. 2 in the facial cleanser segment with a 9.5% share. To remedy the situation, the 76-year-old skincare brand was front and center during last month’s New York Fashion Week. The brand was the skin care sponsor for the Marc Jacobs and Alice & Olivia shows. In addition, Cetaphil invited more than two dozen influencers from around the world to take part in NYFW. 

Another L’Oréal brand, Garnier, is No. 3 in the facial cleanser category. Garnier recorded a 26.6% increase in sales during the past year, according to Circana.

Procter & Gamble made a big push into OTC more than five years ago with the acquisition of First Aid Beauty in 2018. The brand’s product range includes best-sellers such as ingrown hair pads with BHA and AHA, and Ultra Repair Cream Intense Hydration with colloidal oatmeal. The later carries the National Eczema Association accepted seal.

Curology…for the Masses

Multinationals aren’t the only ones in the OTC space; Curology has skin in the game as well. The brand is best known for its personalized, prescription formulas available through a telemedicine model. But in December, non-prescription Curology became available in Target and on Target.com. The retailer offers seven non-prescription products, plus a three-step skincare starter set.

Specifically, Target carries gentle cleanser, gel moisturizer, emergency spot patch, sunscreen, acne cleanser, cream moisturizer and micellar makeup remover.

Curology executives said Target is the perfect first retail launch partner because Curology customers are already shopping there and 75% of the US population lives within 10 miles of a Target, which makes it very accessible. It’s all part of the brand’s commitment to enhance the physical availability of its products.



What’s more, all Curology products available at Target include a complimentary consultation with a licensed dermatology provider on Curology.com who can prescribe a personalized prescription formula, too.

Dr. Whitney Tolpinrud MD is a board-certified dermatologist and medical director at Curology. She pursued dermatology for its blend of medical and procedural medicine. Following medical school at Yale, Tolpinrud underwent an internal medicine internship at Brigham and Women’s Hospital and completed her dermatology residency at Columbia in New York City. She practiced general, surgical, and cosmetic dermatology in NYC, Palo Alto, and San Diego before joining Curology.

Why did she join the brand?

“The company’s commitment to high-quality care, the integration of combination prescription treatments, and the widespread access offered through telemedicine align with my dedication to providing excellent dermatologic care on a national scale,” she told Happi.

And while Curology treats patients of all genders 13 and older, in recent years there’s been an increase in male patients seeking treatment for their acne and/or aging concerns, notes Tolpinrud. For consumers seeking OTC solutions to their skin care issues, she recommends they opt for multifunctional products that offer several benefits in one, such as moisturizers with built-in SPF or serums targeting various concerns like hydration and brightening.

“Prioritizing products with active ingredients like niacinamide, vitamin C or tretinoin can address multiple skin issues such as uneven skin tone and wrinkles,” explained Tolpinrud. “Strategically layering products in the correct order—starting with lightweight serums and finishing with heavier creams—maximizes their effectiveness.”

She recommends tailoring skin care routines for specific skin concerns. This allows for achieving multiple benefits with fewer products. Seeking professional guidance from a dermatology provider ensures personalized recommendations, taking into account your skin type and specific needs.

As a dermatologist, what skin care ingredients does Tolpinrud tell her patients to avoid? When treating conditions such as acne, she told Happi that it’s important to check the ingredients of the skin care products one is using to ensure they do not contain potentially pore-clogging ingredients. These may include coconut oil, sodium lauryl sulfate and isopropyl palmitate.

“Although not an exact science, these ingredients have a higher comedogenicity and may contribute to acne breakouts,” she said. “If one is experiencing acne, it’s important to check all skincare products and replace those that contain these ingredients to help minimize the potential for breakouts. Additionally, skincare products with added fragrance may contribute to irritation. At Curology, our products are dermatologist-designed and formulated without comedogenic ingredients or added fragrance—aside from some of our flavored lip balm offerings.”

The Next Big Thing

Tolpinrud has noticed a strong shift toward an interest in science-backed ingredients and dermatologist-recommended skin care routines. This shift will continue and, as a result, she predicts several trends will continue to emerge.

Personalized skincare: With advancements in technology, personalized skin care solutions tailored to individual needs are becoming more popular. Dermatologist-recommended products and routines, like those offered at Curology, are rapidly gaining traction. Furthermore, utilization of AI-powered tools or other technology may assist with developing personalized skin care routines. 

Focus on skin barrier health: Maintaining a healthy skin barrier is crucial for overall skin health. Skin care products and routines that aim to strengthen and protect the skin barrier are expected to gain attention in 2024.

Multi-tasking products: Skin care products that offer multiple benefits, such as skin care products with multiple active ingredients to simultaneously tackle multiple skin care concerns, are also gaining popularity for their efficacy and convenience.

“At Curology, we believe that personalized products such as our Custom FormulaRx, Deep CleanseRx, and Future-ProofRx, are the future of skincare,” asserted Tolpinrud. “Since no one’s skin is exactly the same, personalized formulas allow for customization and can be tailored to address a variety of skin care goals. We also believe that working with a licensed dermatology provider who can adjust your formula strength and ingredient combination as your needs change, and using prescription products that are specific to your evolving skin goals, will allow you to tackle your ever-changing skin concerns over time.”

Acne

Drugstore aisles are prime real estate for acne formula marketers. Sales of acne treatments in food, drug and mass soared nearly 28% last year, according to Circana. Leading the way is Hero Cosmetics, the maker of Mighty Patch acne patches. Hero’s sales rose almost 80% during the past year. The climb was so rapid that Hero overtook Neutrogena as the No. 1 brand in the $1 billion acne treatment space (see chart click here). It’s no wonder that Church & Dwight acquired Hero for $630 million in 2022. Last year, Hero added Rescue Retinol Nighttime Renewing Cream and Micropoint for Blemishes XL patches. Both new products promise to provide gentle, effective solutions for issue-prone skin.

“Acne is a serious disease. In its milder form, the so-called cosmetic acne, it is more of an annoyance than a medical issue. Yet, a pimple on the forehead can be perceived as disfiguring, and readily available anti-acne OTC drugs are of help for whomever needs a clear skin in the immediate future,” noted Giacomoni, who has extensive experience formulating anti-acne products.

According to Giacomoni, products can claim anti-acne activity as OTC drugs when they contain at least a defined quantity of salicylic acid or of benzoyl peroxide, for instance.

“No clinical proof is needed for the anti-acne claim to be made,” he added.

Peach & Lily capitalized on the acne patch craze with Peach Slices Acne Spot Dots, Nose Pore Patches and Dark Spot Microdarts. They’re all part of an anti-acne lineup that also includes Redness Relief gel, serum, cream and moisturizer. Peach & Lily must be doing something right. Its Peach Slices brand recorded a 391% increase in sales during the past year, according to Circana.

Thayers says it’s been making “natural remedies since 1847.” But it took more than 175 years for the company to enter the acne space. The company’s recent survey only confirmed what everyone knows—acne is Gen Z’s top skin care concern. Armed with this knowledge, last month Thayer’s launched a four-item line that features salicylic acid and lemongrass and other plant extracts.

Together, they reduce breakouts without stripping skin’s natural barrier. Blemish Clearing Cleanser ($14.99) is said to clear acne and prevents breakouts while improving skin barrier function.

Blemish Clearing Toner ($14.99) is available in a bottle and pad form. It clears acne and helps prevent new breakouts, leaving skin renewed, soothed and hydrated. Double Acton Acne Serum ($19.99) contains acne-fighting ingredients BHA, lactic acid, niacinamide, hyaluronic acid and witch hazel. Finally, Rapid Acne Treatment is said to be clinically tested to reduce a blemish size in one day. Products are available on Amazon.

Dandruff Shampoo

The dandruff shampoo segment has been dominated by Procter & Gamble’sHead & Shoulders for decades. The past year has been no different. Head & Shoulders’ sales rose 5.2% to more than $512 million, giving the brand a 72% share in this $710 million category. But the biggest gain came from its 2in1 Men’s Dandruff Shampoo variant. Sales soared over 8,180%.

P&G’s dominant position in the category didn’t dissuade Every Man Jack from introducing a dandruff shampoo. During its 17-year history, EMJ has been become a popular choice for beard care. Now the Certified B Corp. company offers a dandruff shampoo of its own. Sales soared nearly 360% last year, according to Circana.

Oral Care

Church & Dwight boasts the fastest-growing mouthwash in the category: TheraBreath. TheraBreath built on its momentum by expanding into the kids’ segment with the launch of three new fluoride mouthwashes in grape, strawberry and watermelon flavors.

The market leader, of course, is Kenvue’s Listerine. It recently expanded with Listerine Clinical Solutions.

Medicated Rubs

Even medicated rubs rang up a record $1.2 billion in sales, according to Circana. That 3.5% gain was led by private label (+11.6%) and Salonpas (+15.3%). A new player in the segment is Midol, an ingestible pill brand best known for relief of menstrual cramps. But new Midol analgesic rub recorded a 191% surge in sales. Still, when it comes to analgesics rubs, private label is No. 1 in the category with a 17.3% share. Icy Hot is No. 2 (13.9% share) followed by Salonpas (12.8%) and Biofreeze (12.7%). 

A Sign of Grim Times Accidents happen…a lot. Sales of first aid treatments in food, drug, mass and related outlets rose 6.1% during the past year to nearly $1.9 billion, according to Circana. Every category posted gains. For example, sales of ointments and creams increased 7.7%; anti-itch treatments rose 3.2%; and insect first aid product sales increased 6.6% for the year ended Dec. 31, 2023. But those gains pale compared to the 51,512% sales increase for smelling salts. It’s not because boxing gyms are opening on every street corner. No, it’s because that’s where Circana categorizes Narcan. Fentanyl is showing up in every neighborhood in the US. Last year, the fentanyl overdose death rate topped 112,000 according to the US Centers for Disease Control. In an effort to curtail fentanyl-related deaths, in March 2023, the US Food and Drug Administration (FDA) approved the first non-prescription naloxone nasal spray product. OTC Narcan hit store shelves in July and in six months, sales approached $3 million, according to Circana. Narcan nasal spray is manufactured by Emergent BioSolutions, Gaithersburg, MD. Even before the FDA’s action, pharmacies could sell naloxone without a prescription because officials in every state have allowed it. The price varies, but two doses of Narcan average $46.04, according to Circana. Emergent put the suggested retail price at $44.99. “Picking up Narcan Nasal Spray at the store is not a sign that your family has ‘a problem,’ in fact it shows you are prepared just in case. It’s like buying a fire extinguisher to have at home—having the power to save a life of someone you love, someone you know, or someone that may need another chance,” explained Dr. Bonnie Milas, Penn Medicine physician and professor of Clinical Anesthesiology and Critical Care. Milas lost both of her sons to accidental overdose. OTC Narcan may not slow fentanyl and heroin use, but it will give users and their families a second chance on recovery.

NACDS Annual Meeting Is April 27–30, 2024 The National Association of Chain Drug Stores (NACDS) will hold its 2024 annual meeting in Palm Beach, FL, April 27-30. Attendees include retailing executives from companies such as Albertson’s, BJ’s, Dollar General, HEB, Kroger, Meijer, Publix, Rite Aid, Walgreen, Walmart and Wegmans. For those planning ahead, Total Store Expo is August 17-19 in Boston, MA. www.nacds.org