Clean Beauty Category Gains Momentum

As we attempt to find our feet while still in the midst of the COVID-19 crisis, “safety” remains the biggest priority for many of us and it’s no different when it comes to the products we seek out. In recent years, the “clean” beauty category has been gaining momentum, and the COVID-19 pandemic has accelerated demand—and it’s a trend that is set to continue, provided brands are willing to step up their safety awareness efforts.

According to Christine Kim, regulatory affairs specialist and CEO of K-GMP, good hygiene habits, an increased interest in immunity, and a change to beauty and skin routines as a result of wearing masks will all drive innovation in the clean beauty space.

In a recent webinar hosted by Chem-linked, Kim advised that now, more than ever, cosmetic companies are tasked with reassuring consumers about the safety, transparency and sustainability of ingredients. This means that when it comes to information labels, transparency will be key and packaging design will need to promote good hygiene practice.

There will be more emphasis on packaging that’s designed in such a way that the product within won’t be overly exposed to the environment or fingers on application. She noted that with the hand sanitizer category surging, development is needed in the area of additional functionalities, such as moisturizing properties and more hygienic designs for portable products.

Kim adds that “beauty from within” developments to help with immunity should not be delayed. She zeroed in on vitamin C and ginseng as excellent candidates in product applications as the skin is the first defense against toxins and bacteria. Furthermore, as mask wearing becomes a daily necessity, hair and eye makeup will be the primary focus, while lip care, not lip color, products will enjoy an increase in sales.

The Mark of Clean Beauty

Clean beauty is described as a non-toxic product, considered safe regardless of its origin and without a long, ever-evolving list of ingredients linked to harmful health effects. The consumer associates this category with green beauty, cruelty-free products and organic ingredients, according to Mintel Senior Beauty Analyst Hwa Jun Lee.

Noteworthy mentions in this area include Happy Bath, a bodywash housed in a colorless container made of plant-derived plastic, Innisfree’s insistence on natural and ocean-safe ingredients and Amorepacific’s Plastic Zero policy, which calls for recycling at least 100 tons of plastic bottles every year for the next three years. According to Jun Lee, the nine “no-nos” of harmful ingredients include sulfates, silicones, parabens, EDTA, PEC, phthalate, chemical sunscreen, gluten and animal-derived ingredients. Safer alternatives include bio-surfactants, natural emollients, gentle preservatives, natural chelating agents, bio-solubilizers, bio-plasticizers, mineral sunscreen, gluten-free compounds and vegan ingredients.

Meanwhile, Kim reports there to be new Ministry of Food and Drug Safety (MFDS) standards for natural and organic cosmetics in South Korea. Under the Natural Cosmetics Act, only certified products can be marketed as natural or organic and any extra substances, chemicals or artificial ingredients have to be less than 5% of a product’s total content.

The manufacturing process of the ingredient should be simple and the original quality must be maintained without any contamination. Prohibited items with packaging include PVC or polystyrene foam and manufacturers are required to have documents to prove a product is organic.

Innovation

During the crisis, many cosmetic companies kicked into high gear to develop solutions. Many launched portable hand sanitizing sprays, wipes and gels with moisturizing properties. According to Kim, sales increased for moisturizing products, hand and foot care by 127% and serum and oils by 126%. Moreover, it’s a “trouble care” category that will see a significant rise in sales as more consumers worry about skin problems with the long-term use of masks, according to Kim.

Meanwhile, the likes of Kolmar Korea was anticipating what the consumer will need in the “new normal” post-lockdown, developing a color cosmetic product that minimizes the removal of makeup when wearing a mask. The technology features a coating powder with strong properties said to repel oil and moisture. Kolmar says the powder acts as a shield, preventing moisture or grease from penetrating the makeup.

In April, Amorepacific introduced its first personalized hydrogel mask using 3D printing technology for its skin care brand, Iope. According to the cosmetics giant, the mask can be tailored to the individual’s facial structure and skin conditions thanks to a smartphone app which can instantly measure the user’s facial dimensions to print their personalized mask.

The 3D printer utilizes a cartridge-based module that ensures hygienic and efficient use of the liquid-type hydrogel material, according to Amorepacific.

E-commerce Booms

The pandemic has increased everyone’s vocabulary. “Untact” marketing, a phrase adopted by South Koreans, refers to marketing strategies that do not require face-to-face or personal contact with consumers to execute. With social distancing, this has become even more popular as people prefer to shop online.

During the crisis, Kim reports online cosmetics sales have increased 21.8% and mobile shopping by 31.1% to 8.1 trillion won (about $6.8 billion at current exchange rates). Coupang, a South Korean e-commerce group, is reportedly thriving having been given the opportunity to access a wider range of consumers who have previously preferred to shop in-store like the elder generation, thanks to them working from home and perhaps watching more YouTube.

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Michelle Yeomans
Freelance Journalist
Email: Michelle.yeomans@gmail.com

Michelle Yeomans is an award winning multimedia journalist. She has been reporting on cosmetics industry movements in EMEA, US and Asia for five years and has won an award for her coverage of the complexities of operating in the Middle East. Michelle’s passion lies in tracking the beauty culture and trends of the Asia Pacific region. Ever the AV enthusiast, she also relishes the opportunity to create engaging video and podcast content for the B2B industry.