Dear Valerie: I’m torn between two different amodimethicone emulsions for my shampoo. Both have amodimethicone and trideceth-12, but one is 50% active and the other is 30% active. However, the 30% active has added cetrimonium chloride. Help! 

—Emulsional Anxiety

Dear: Emulsional:

Both are viable silicone microemulsions, and at face value the astute choice seems to be the 30% active blend, as you get the bonus of enhanced wet-combing properties in your shampoo. Cetrimonium chloride greatly reduces the combing forces required to comb wet hair. In other words, it’s a nice detangler. (IMHO, cetrimonium chloride is otherwise useless.) However, if you already have an ingredient that is strong in wet combing, the blend with cetrimonium chloride may not be necessary.

Let’s ignore face value; the amount of cetrimonium chloride typically found in amodimethicone blends is small, usually less than 3%. That’s not contributing much to wet combing when you factor how relatively little of the amodimethicone blend is getting used. You would need to add a wet combing agent anyway. (At least, if you want to make a decent shampoo that is on par with hotel amenity shampoo.)

Go with the More Active Option

The 50% active amodimethicone seems the more tempting option to me; you get more activity from the amodimethicone, which you can control by use level. Amodimethicone also has some wet comb contribution, and the fact this blend doesn’t have cetrimonium chloride means you have the freedom to add a less blasé wet-combing material. While you can’t go wrong, I think the 50% active amodimethicone is the better choice in this scenario.

Now, don’t me wrong. I formulate with tons of the cetrimonium-chloride containing amodimethicone blends. They’re fantastic! I prefer to use them in leave-on styling formulations where not as much amodimethicone is needed, and the smidge of cetrimonium chloride adds value in ease of incorporation and very slight wet combing properties. Just use the 50% blend in your shampoo!

Valerie George

askvalerie@icloud.com

Valerie George is a cosmetic chemist, science communicator, educator, leader, and avid proponent of transparency in the beauty industry. She works on the latest research in hair color and hair care at her company, Simply Formulas, and is the co-host of The Beauty Brains podcast. You can find her on Instagram at @cosmetic_chemist or showcasing her favorite ingredients to small brands and home formulators at simply-ingredients.com