The Skincare Ingredients Recommended by Dermatologists

A Northwestern Medicine study found consensus among dermatologists regarding the topical ingredients recommended to treat common skin concerns. Authors concluded these consensus recommendations may provide a starting point for building a skincare routine and may increase consistency and clarity in communication between clinicians and patients.

Good news for the cosmetics industry is that several widely-used ingredients are preferred by dermatologists. For example, mineral sunscreen was one of the most recommended ingredient for protecting against wrinkles, redness and dry skin. Retinoids, a vitamin A derivative, also were highly recommended for improving wrinkles, acne, dark spots, large pores and oily skin.

Published in the Journal of the American Academy of Dermatology, the study used a rigorous process called a Delphi consensus in which dozens of top dermatologists rated skincare ingredients on a 1-9 scale. After two rounds of scoring and expert discussion, only ingredients with strong agreement made the final recommended list.

Cutting Through the Skincare Clutter

“This is the first time experts have come together nationally to cut through the overwhelming number of skincare options,” said Senior Study Author Dr. Murad Alam, vice chair and professor of dermatology at Northwestern University Feinberg School of Medicine. Alam is also a Northwestern Medicine dermatologist and surgeon. “We wanted to help both doctors and everyday users understand which ingredients are backed by the most expert support.”

Alam added that when it comes to skincare, more isn’t always better.

“Using too many products can irritate your skin and make things worse,” he said. “It’s about knowing which ingredients are most effective for your specific concerns and are best for your routine.”

The study addresses a major gap for consumers trying to navigate skincare products, which typically don’t undergo the same rigorous review of the US Food and Drug Administration as medications for medical conditions, said Alam.

The Lists

The Delphi consensus study determined which topical ingredients are frequently recommended by cosmetic dermatologists to treat fine lines and wrinkles, acne, redness, dark spots, large pores, dry skin and oily. The list of 318 ingredients was reduced by a panel of 17 dermatologists to 83.

A separate panel of experts critically evaluated and refined the lists through two rounds of Delphi survey and a virtual consensus meeting. Members of the Association of Academic Cosmetic Dermatology were Delphi panelists. The Association of Academic Cosmetic Dermatology Patient Experience Committee oversaw the consensus process.

Panelists identified the ingredients they consider most beneficial or each of the seven skin concerns (acne, dark spots, fine lines and wrinkles, large pores, oily skin, redness). Specifically, they identified at least three ingredients (or associated products containing these ingredients) they routinely prescribed or recommended for each of the seven cosmetic concerns. Ingredients listed by two or more panelists were included in the subsequent Delphi process. Retinoids and mineral sunscreen ranked the most effective for multiple skin complaints.

Dermatologist-Preferred Ingredients

Twenty-three ingredients across seven skin concerns achieved consensus. Percentages are for the dermatologists who recommend the ingredient:

Fine lines and wrinkles: Mineral Sunscreen (96.8%), Retinoids (96.8%), Vitamin C (88.7%), Chemical Sunscreen (82.3%)

Acne: Retinoids (96.8%), Benzoyl Peroxide (95.2%), Salicylic Acid (93.6%), Clindamycin (90.3%), Azelaic Acid (87.1%), Glycolic Acid (79.0%)

Redness: Mineral Sunscreen (95.2%), Sulfacetamide-Sulfur (82.3%), Metronidazole (79.0%), Green-Tinted Products (77.4%), Niacinamide (72.6%), Brimonidine (75.8%), Ivermectin (72.6%)

Dark Spots: Hydroquinone (98.4%), Retinoids (96.8%), Kojic Acid (93.6%), Glycolic Acid (91.9%), Azelaic Acid (88.7%), Vitamin C (87.1%), Tranexamic Acid (87.1%), Niacinamide (79.0%)

Large Pores: Retinoids (93.6%)

Dry Skin: Petrolatum (85.5%), Ceramides (82.1%), Ammonium Lactate (79.0%), Hyaluronic Acid (79.0%), Urea (79.0%)

Oily Skin: Retinoids (93.6%), Benzoyl Peroxide (80.7%), Salicylic Acid (79.0%)

Ingredients That Didn’t Make the Cut

Ingredients that did not achieve consensus were:

Fine lines and Wrinkles: Ceramides, DNA Repair Enzymes, Glycolic Acid, Growth Factors, Peptides, Hyaluronic Acid, Lactic Acid, Niacinamide

Acne: Lactic Acid, Mandelic Acid, Polyhydroxy Acid, Dapsone, Erythromycin, Minocycline, Clascoterone

Redness: Aloe Vera, Azelaic Acid, Colloidal Oatmeal, Cucumber Extract, Ethoxybenzaldehyde, Green Tea, Humectants (eg, panthenol, glycerin), Hyaluronic Acid, Hydrocortisone, Chemical Sunscreen

Dark Spots: Alpha-Arbutin, Cysteamine hydrochloride, Salicylic Acid, Corticosteroids alone (eg, fluocinolone acetonide), Corticosteroids in combination with other ingredients

Large Pores: Silicone-Based Primer, Azelaic Acid, Citric Acid, Fruit Acid, Glycolic Acid, Lactic Acid, Malic Acid, Salicylic Acid

Dry Skin: Cyclomethicone, Dimethicone, Mineral Oil, Paraffin, Propylene Glycol, Squalene, Glycerin (glycerol), Sodium Lactate, Glycol Stearate, Sunflower Seed Oil Glycerides

Oily Skin: Niacinamide, Papaya, Polymer-Absorbing Beads, Witch Hazel, Glycolic Acid, Mandelic Acid, Lactic Acid