Acetyl Zingerone (AZ) significantly improved THDC’s stability and skin benefits under an oxidant rich environment, according to Sytheon (booth 247). Thus, AZ inhibits THDC degradation which abrogates the pro-inflammatory type I interferon response seen when THDC is used alone. Additionally, the combination of THDC+AZ promoted increased expression of genes associated with lipid homeostasis and keratinocyte differentiation, elevated production of collagen I, IV and VI proteins, reduced MMP activity and improved viability of keratinocytes exposed to oxidative stress. Clinically, THDC+AZ has shown statistically significant (p ≤ 0.05) reduction in wrinkle severity, pigmentation & skin redness, surprisingly, not when THDC was used alone.

For well over 25 years, THDC (CAS # 183476-82-6) and Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate (CAS #327594-27-4, ATiP) were construed as being equivalent structures. In fact, THDC comes from reaction with 2-hexyldecanoic acid (CAS #25354-97-6) whereas ATiP derives from reaction with isopalmitic acid (14-methylpentadecanoic acid; CAS #4668-02-7). This misnomer was finally corrected by Sytheon working in collaboration with the Personal Care Product Council (PCPC) and the Chemical Abstract Services (CAS #provider).

In summary, the identity of THDC has been finally defined and clinically, the skin beneficial properties of THDC as well as its stability have been improved significantly by using AZ. Thus, AZ is a prudent choice for developing products with THDC. 

More info: Sytheon, Tel: 973-897-6616; Email: rachel@sytheonltd.com; Website: www.sytheonltd.com