As demand for mineral sunscreens and high-performance color cosmetics grows, formulators face challenges in achieving high powder loadings while maintaining low viscosity, refined sensory aesthetics and long-term stability.

Mineral UV filters and high pigment levels can increase viscosity, cause whitening and lead to heavy color shift and possible oil bleeding. To support these formulation needs, Shin-Etsu Silicones of America, Inc. (SESA: A U.S. subsidiary of Shin-Etsu Chemical Co. Ltd., Japan) recently introduced their advanced line of silicone based dispersants featuring distinct molecular structures and functional benefits at the SCC 79th Annual Scientific Meeting & Showcase.

The globally compliant dispersants on display included KP-578 and KF-6115 and key formulations. Both demonstrated the ability to support significantly higher loadings of powder pigments and mineral UV filters in color cosmetics and sunscreens, while still delivering optimal sensory, stability and performance benefits.

KF-6115: INCI: Lauryl Polyglyceryl-3 Polydimethylsiloxyethyl Dimethicone

This polyglycerin-modified silicone dispersant greatly improves the dispersion of powder in various types of oils because of the function of its branched silicone and alkyl structures. By promoting consistent and uniform dispersion of powders,KF-6115 can greatly improve the stability and transparency of the final preparation with maximum UV absorber loading with minimum viscosity.

SSL–315 SPF 50 Sheer Zinc Mineral Sunscreen Milk

This globally compliant, non-whitening, shake type formulation contains a high level of nano-fine ZnO using KF-6115 as the dispersant. This alkyl modified branched type silicone promotes consistent and uniform dispersions of powders which ultimately improves the stability and transparency of the final formula. To add to the silky soft feel, we are using our KSG-45 elastomer gel that adds powdery feel and soft-focus effect. The result is a formula that rubs in clear without the whitening effect on dark skin tones with soft, velvet lightweight feel.

KP-578: INCI: Acrylates/Ethylhexyl Acrylate/Dimethicone Methacrylate Copolymer

This 100% active, silicone/acrylate polymer is designed to be an effective pigment dispersant for color cosmetics−allowing formulators to mitigate streaks and separation in the formulation. Grafted hydrophilic groups are designed to interact with the hydrophilic groups on the pigment to facilitate the dispersion of pigments in the oil. Notably, it provides a very uniform dispersion with a higher load of pigments.

It features good dispersibility in a wide range of oils and is also effective at very low levels. The lower viscosity pigment paste is easier to work with for formulators to create more sheer formulas for a myriad of color cosmetic foundations and sunscreens.