Inolex says it has created a better way to condition hair and skin.

ProCondition 22 enables formulators to create quat-free products for skin and hair. ProCondition 22 (INCI: Brassicamidopropyl Dimethylamine) from Inolex is a Brassica plant-based alternative for quaternary ammonium compounds (“quats”) such as Behentrimonium Chloride (BTAC) and Cetrimonium Chloride (CTAC) and for SAPDMA.

Multi-Benefit Technology

Readily biodegradable and non-irritating to skin and eyes, ProCondition 22 creates lamellar gel networks for conditioning, emulsification and skin moisturization. It provides multi-benefit technology with a non-permanent cationic charge. Lamellar liquid crystals create flexible, protective layers that mimic the natural lamellar structure of skin and hair. These crystals provide a soft, powdery, non-greasy feel on skin and hair. In hair care formulas, they also provide weightless conditioning.

Comparable Wet Combability

ProCondition 22 restores damaged hair by smoothing lifted cuticles on hair fibers. The hair shaft is sealed, and friction between hair strands is reduced. Smooth, unbroken cuticles improve hair’s appearance and feel. In tests on Chinese hair, European brown hair and multi-ethnic curly (3A) hair, ProCondition 22 has comparable wet combability to BTAC in a natural conditioning formula. It provides frizz control and gives hair a smooth and overall healthy appearance. Recommended use levels include shampoos (0.5%), rinse-off conditioners (1.0-5.0%) and leave-on products (0.5-3.0%).

Clinical Trials

In a clinical study with skin care formulas containing ProCondition 22, the results showed immediate moisture replenishment at 15 minutes and lasting moisturization that lasts 24 hours, which is comparable to a leading commercial daily lotion with “clinically proven 24-hour moisturization” claims. Recommended use levels in skin care emulsions range from 0.2-5.0% and 0.5% in cleansers and body washes. Procondition 22 is: 83% USDA Certified Biobased Content, Non-palm Derived, Natural Origin Index (0.80), Readily Biodegradable, Halal Certified, Kosher Compliant, Vegan & Cruelty-Free, and China IECIC Listed.

Quaterniums like BTAC and CTAC pose similar risk factors to other categories that have gone out of favor with consumers and regulators, like sulfates and cyclomethicones. There are concerns for human exposure and environmental persistence. Both have the potential for buildup on hair and skin, leading to dryness or residue. In formulations, these materials can destabilize certain cosmetic formulations, affecting product efficacy.