Estée Lauder Research Links Elevated Sugar Exposure in Skin Cells to Skin Cell Aging

Researchers at The Estée Lauder Companies (ELC) say they have uncovered a new mechanism linking elevated sugar exposure in skin cells to visible and biological signs of skin decline. Their research, published in the International Journal of Molecular Sciences, shows that higher sugar commonly seen with aging and certain metabolic conditions can directly alter the behavior of skin cells.

These insights in adaptation science will deepen the understanding of systemic cellular responses to new changes in skin and accelerate the creation of products that can help restore skin to a healthy, balanced state, according to ELC.

Glycation—the binding of sugar to structural proteins like collagen—stiffens the skin and reduces elasticity. This study found that glycation also occurs within the skin cells themselves.

Using in vitro models, researchers within the company’s Global Research & Innovation (R&I) group showed that sugar-induced glycation drives a harmful cycle of inflammation and cellular senescence. The affected cells grow more slowly, move less and lose their ability to regenerate, which impacts the skin’s ability to repair and accelerating aging. These findings, according to ELC, suggest that approaches that reduce or help clear glycation may support healthier, more resilient skin.

“By identifying glycation as a cellular disruptor, this study opens the door to new strategies in adaptation science,” said Dr. Claude Saliou, senior vice president, advanced technologies and global clinical and consumer sciences, The Estée Lauder Companies. “Through industry-leading research that helps us better understand the cellular and systemic mechanisms responsible for responding to external influences and stressors on skin, we are continuing to advance transformative skin care innovation and create high-performing products that meet the needs of our consumers around the world.” 

According to ELC, antioxidants and autophagy activators found in its skin care products work in alignment with this protective pathway. By understanding glycation’s role at the skin cell level, R&D teams will be able to identify new ingredients and design new formulations that go beyond repair and address key causes of skin aging.