Ashland, Shin-Etsu Highlight Cosmetic Innovations at SCC76

The Society of Cosmetic Chemists Annual Meeting & Industry Showcase featured dozens of podium presentations. But not every innovative idea was unveiled onstage. In the aisles and meeting rooms of LA Live, suppliers highlighted the solutions that will drive new product development in 2023 and beyond. More than 50 companies exhibited during SCC76, which took place in Los Angeles last month. Novel raw material launches remain the lifeblood of new product development in the beauty industry.

Ashland highlighted a range of novel materials during the annual meeting. Denise Costrini, global marketing director, walked attendees through several recent introductions. For example, Sensiva Go Natural Multifunctional provides broad-spectrum efficacy against microorganisms, while imparting moisturizing properties.

“It is ideal for leave-on formulas and wipe applications,” explained Costrini. “It has a wide pH range of 4-7.”

The product is of 100% natural origin and Cosmos validated. Sensiva Go Natural Multifunctional is suitable for sensitive skin-type formulas.

Caressence Biofunctional is a phytofermented extract from fresh, organic jasmine. According to Ashland, the material is clinically proven to improve emotional well-being, relax signs of aging and provide a healthy glow effect. After 14 days of use, skin was visibly smoother and the complexion improved. Furthermore, Caressence Biofunctional decreased cortisol levels and boosted viperin, a virus-inhibitory protein.

Customers who want to improve the “naturality” of their sun care and color cosmetics formulas should consider Antaron Soja Glyceride, a nature-derived, biodegradable film-former that improves water resistance and boosts SPF. The material is vegan suitable and compatible with both organic and inorganic ingredients.

“It gives customers the opportunity to create products with a ‘clean’ INCI,” noted Costrini.

In in-vitro studies, Antaron Soja provided water resistance at a level similar to the industry benchmark, and it demonstrated an SPF boost. It offers a neutral to soft cushiony skin feel, can be used in clear formulations and is cold processible.

Ashland offers a range of nature-derived thickeners and absorbents that enable formulators to meet their rheology needs and develop more sustainable products. For example, Texturpure SA-1 cellulose is nature-derived, biodegradable suspension agent, thickener and sensorial boosting texturizer for hair and skin care cleansers. It is of 86% natural origin, according to ISO. Moreover, at 3% use levels, formulators can create formulas that are 99% natural.

In addition to Texturpure SA-1, the company offers a wide range of sustainable cellulosic products from cotton- and wood-derived cellulose ether. In fact, Ashland is the first cellulose ether supplier to ensure that 100% of cotton linters are from recycled cotton. Ashland’s dissolving wood- and fluff pulp-based cellulose are sourced from suppliers that have active sustainability programs and implemented zero deforestation business practices.

“Ashland is pushing the naturality of formulations to new levels,” said Costrini. “We are providing natural, sustainable solutions for our customers.”

Stable, Sensory Solution

Shin-Etsu Silicones highlighted an anhydrous silicone emulsion system with 10% L-ascorbic acid. The formula solves stability issues, which have often handcuffed cosmetic chemists who sought to incorporate vitamin C into their skin care formulas.

Vitamin C is a well-known antioxidant that defends against UV damage and other environmental aggressors. It also reduces pigmentation caused by inflammation and has even been shown to increase collagen which improves skin firmness and elasticity.

“Vitamin C is a great ingredient, but it has instability issues,” noted Janine Cherette, lab manager, Shin-Etsu Silicones of America. “We’ve solved the instability issue by replacing water with an elastomer gel.”

Its unique polyglycerin-modified cross-linked and alkyl-branched emulsifiers (KSG-710 and KF-6105) significantly improved the stability with a light skin feel. Shin-Etsu further enhanced the aesthetics of the formula by incorporating a lighter feeling elastomer gel in a volatile diluent (USG-1010). The final formulation has a non-greasy, velvety texture that absorbs quickly with a powdery, non-tacky after-feel, according to Shin-Etsu.

“Now, formulators can get the benefits of vitamin C, but with better stability and better sensory attributes,” said Cherette.