Anti-Aging, Anti-Acne Active Ingredients Lead Skincare Product Development

The actives skincare marketplace is expanding for the better with anti-aging and anti-acne components being a big part of the change in 2023.

According to market research firm Circana, face serum, body spray and facial cleansers were the top performers in the prestige skincare market for the first half of the year. Fueled by new launch activity, clinical brands accounted for the majority of prestige skin care sales gains. Many clinical brands contain actives for either anti-aging, anti-acne—or both at the same time! Beauty shoppers still want to fade dark spots and even out skin tone as well.

Actives are pivotal ingredients in skincare because they are specifically selected in a formulation to help address particular skin concerns. According to Anand Mahadeshwar, senior vice president, skin care development for North America at L’Oréal, “Actives’ concentration and formulation are backed by science and clinical testing to ensure they deliver tangible, beneficial results. These ingredients can target various concerns like aging, pigmentation, acne or hydration. Including active ingredients elevates basic skincare products to treat, protect, rejuvenate and transform the skin. Think of actives as the ‘engine’ in a car: while many parts make up the vehicle, the engine powers it forward, just as actives power many primary benefits in skincare.”

Actives in Skincare

Facial skin are usage in the US remains flat compared to last year, according to Circana’s 2023 Facial Skincare Consumer Report. While usage remains consistent, product preferences are in flux.

Consumers are increasingly turning to hybrid products that together address skin concerns and provide makeup coverage. In addition, more channel blending is taking place as 67% of consumers feel that skincare brands at drug stores or mass merchandisers are as good as higher priced department store brands, a sentiment which is up from last year.

US prestige beauty industry sales overall amounted to $14 billion in the first half of 2023, a 15% increase versus the same period in 2022. In comparison, the mass beauty market generated $28 billion and grew 9%, according to Circana.

Leading Developments in Actives

Actives in skincare are like the superheroes of the skincare routine. According to Brittany Periera, a cosmetic chemist at Mario Badescu, Edison, NJ, “Actives are packed with powerful, scientifically-backed ingredients that are carefully crafted to tackle all sorts of skin issues like acne, dark spots, wrinkles and textured skin.”

Periera sees microbiome-friendly actives as a rising opportunity in skin care development.

“Ingredients that support the skin’s microbiome by promoting a healthy balance of beneficial bacteria while inhibiting harmful ones, can potentially contribute to improved skin health and a better defense against various skin issues,” she said.

Additionally, products with anti-aging benefits are still popular with Mario Badescu customers.

“We’ll surely see a continued love for retinoids, hyaluronic acid, vitamin C, niacinamide, peptides, AHAs and BHAs,” she told Happi. “These ingredients have already proven worthy, and will continue trending in the year to come.”

Professional skin care company Biologique Recherche is touting its Masque Caviar Vert as the ultimate anti-wrinkle treatment.

According to Dr. Philippe Allouche, head of creation at Biologique Recherche, Masque Caviar Vert has an immediate tightening effect to prevent and fill in fine lines and wrinkles on the face. Formulated with green caviar and a collagen segment, this treatment helps restructure the skin to visibly re-densify and tone the epidermis.

“Wrinkles are visibly smoothed and facial features are tightened,” Allouche said. “Results are visible from the very first use.”

At Biologique Recherche, the 3D Redensifying Face Serum is also selling well at the company, according to Allouche.

Meanwhile, at Coty, the new prestige skin care brand Orveda is garnering attention. According to Shimei Fan, Coty’s chief scientific and sustainability officer, New York, “Active ingredients and biotechnology in general fuel all our Orveda products. This technological approach offers many benefits at once: creation of new molecules, reproduction of existing molecules in a very sustainable way and potentially in high quantities.”

As an example, Fan cited Orveda Omnipotent Concentrate, which “contains 16 actives concentrated at 24%, some biotech molecules, which surprisingly showed remarkable senomorphic properties which target the cellular deterioration.”

“On the sustainability side, depending on technology involved, biotech stands for nature saving, energy saving, water saving, no solvents or only alternative solvents, no waste or upcycled waste,” Fan added.

The $460 skin care product features Orveda’s signature complex: biofermented marine enzymes, bio-tech prebiotics and biofermented kombucha black tea. Bio-tech schisandra sphenantera soothes inflammation, while biofermented saccharomyces cerevisiae extract regenerates healthy skin cells. Biofermented adenosine delays signs of aging. Bio-activated gallic acid derivative brightens while hydrolyzed hyaluronic acid hydrates. Biomimetic tripeptides firm the skin. And daisy flower extract brightens and evens skin tone.

Balanda Atis, aassistant vice president of scientific communications for L’Oréal Paris, told Happi that the Bright Reveal skin care range is all about reducing the appearance of stubborn dark spots and protecting from UV rays.

“Our niacinamide serum which also contains amino sulfonic acid and ferulic acid starts to fade stubborn dark spots from acne marks, sun and age spots after one week in clinical trials,” she said. “The Bright Reveal SPF 50 UV Fluid Lotion provides broad spectrum protection with vitamin C and E that help protect against environmental damage caused by free radicals that can accelerate the appearance of aging. The formula blends well with all skin tones when rubbed in so there is no white cast.”

Next year, the skin care marketplace will continue to see a focus on improving the texture of the skin.

“To even your skin tone and reveal a healthy appearance, consumers will look for ingredients that are both efficacious and good for sensitive skin,” Atis told Happi.

Powered by peptides, Galderma’s latest creation within the Cetaphil brand is Healthy Renew—a retinol alternative skin care range. According to the company, the Healthy Renew collection helps defend against visible signs of aging while being gentle enough for daily use on sensitive skin.

“Aging skin is a particular point of frustration for my sensitive skin patients due to increased risks of irritation and an already compromised skin barrier,” noted Dr. Dendy Engelman, a dermatologist partner for Cetaphil.

“Active ingredients like retinol are especially not well-tolerated, so I’m thrilled to share Cetaphil Healthy Renew with them as a new, gentle, and efficacious option to combat the early signs of aging.”

After researching more than 300 peptides, Cetaphil selected highly purified botanical glycopeptides as the optimal ingredient for Healthy Renew, replicating the benefits of retinol while being well tolerated. Combined with vitamins B3 and B5 to help hydrate, soothe and repair the skin’s moisture barrier, the range also includes botanical extracts from edelweiss to target dullness and uneven skin tone.

“Actives are crucial components in skincare products as they play a significant role in addressing various skin concerns and improving overall skin health,” observed Darla Smith, general manager of Theraderm Clinical Skin Care, Springdale, AR. “Active ingredients are carefully selected for their specific properties and benefits, making them indispensable in the formulation of effective skin care products.”

The latest innovation at the clinical skincare company is Theraderm’s new Brilliance Boost Pads. The products contain a blend of lactic and mandelic acids for a smooth texture, ethyl ascorbic acid for a youthful glow, arbutin for complexion clarity and allantoin for a soothing touch, according to Smith.

“In our skin care product, we’ve incorporated essential active ingredients such as lactic acid and mandelic acid, both of which fall under the category of hydroxy acids. These acids are invaluable for skin care products because of their multifaceted benefits. They aid in addressing common issues like fine lines, wrinkles and enlarged pores,” said Smith.

Skin care Actives To Grow in 2024 & Beyond

Mahadeshwar of L’Oréal noted that both inclusivity and personalization will drive the actives category in coming years.

“By 2040, two-thirds of the world’s population will have melanin-rich skin and the US is becoming a majority-minority nation. The beauty industry is poised to celebrate this diversity, focusing on personalization like never before to cater to all skin needs and concerns,” he told Happi. “At L’Oréal Research & Innovation, we’re not just predicting the future but creating it.” 

For example, the Lancôme Skin Screen analysis service uses artificial intelligence (AI) to measure 13 clinical parameters of skin health, such as wrinkles, firmness and UV damage, said Mahadeshwar. Inspired by clinical studies and dermatologist-approved devices, Skin Screen helps beauty advisors establish a “diagnosis” and provide personalized advice to consumers for a customized routine. 

“This cutting-edge service was developed over the course of 20 years of research, which comprises 15,000 photos of clinical signs of skin health gathered in compliance with responsible personal data processing standards,” he added.

The $57.5 billion global face cream market, will rise 3.7% a year to reach $82.8 billion by 2033, according to a new research report published by Fact.MR. Increasing demand for organic and natural face creams, along with increased availability of several specialized face creams, is contributing to market expansion. 

Fact.MR says more consumers are significantly spending on specialized beauty products, including premium face creams, which is driving market opportunities, too.  Sales of anti-aging creams are projected to advance 3.8% a year and reach $30 billion by 2033. Actives are a big part of this product development.

The $4 billion global BB cream market is growing 8.5% a year and will reach $9.1 billion by 2033, according to a report from Future Market Insights. According to FMR analysts, the US accounts for 21.1% of global BB cream market sales. The rapidly growing well-being, makeup and the cosmetic sector is advancing the demand for BB cream in the country. At the same time, growing consumer consciousness for high-quality, premium and eco-friendly beauty products is increasing its adoption.

Manufacturers are developing numerous skin care BB creams for consumers with sensitive, oily and dry skin concerns. These manufacturers are promoting sustainability by adding natural and organic ingredients in BB creams, which are expanding market reach. The global BB cream market is highly competitive due to the presence of several key players. These companies are innovating their products with sustainability to capture consumers’ attention. The key players are offering active ingredients in BB cream to reduce wrinkles, skin damage, pigmentation and dark spots.

As outlet expansions continue and investors bet on this market’s long-term growth prospects, facial skin care products and services will become more accessible to new consumers looking for a high level of expertise from their medical aesthetics providers or estheticians.

According to Leah Wisniewski, analyst, beauty and wellbeing at Kline, it is also likely that luxury skin care brands concentrated outside of the med spa and esthetician model will see growth opportunities in the next year.

A Surge in Medical Spa Product Sales

Zitsticka, an acne and supplement brand, was acquired by the Heyday chain in 2022, and Dr. Barbara Sturm, a luxury brand distributed in high-end retailers, recently opened its first two branded spas in New York City.

“The medical spa market is booming in the United States,” noted Dana Kreutzer, project lead, beauty and wellbeing at Kline. “These aesthetic skin care havens are outpacing the competition and experiencing double the revenue growth of the total medical-dispensed skin care channel … today’s savvy consumers are seeking more than just skin care products—they look for a holistic wellness experience. Staffed by licensed professionals such as nurse injectors, physician assistants and dermatologists, these spas are at the forefront of innovation, utilizing cutting-edge treatments and aesthetic devices to deliver unparalleled results.”

Overall, in 2024, skincare products packed with actives that deliver both a luxury experience and efficacy will remain popular with beauty shoppers.

According to market research firm Mintel, consumers place more significance on value, driving the importance of quality and proven ingredients.

KinShen Chan, Mintel’s senior beauty and personal care analyst, told Happi: “Consumers are increasingly seeking products that prioritize efficacy and functionality over extravagant packaging and flashy marketing campaigns. Today’s consumers are looking for transparency; they are more inclined to seek justification for premium pricing based on tangible results rather than superficial factors. Research, clinical studies or certifications to substantiate their claims of effectiveness will gain credibility and trust.

“We are seeing a new wave of ‘new-age minimalism’ and ‘coded luxury’ as consumer focus shifts away from amassing an extensive collection of products to curating a carefully selected range of high-quality essentials,” Chan added. “Brands that focus on innovation, expansion and eco-conscious practices are set to achieve growth. Expect to see companies invest in advanced formulations, cutting-edge ingredients and technologies.”