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Active ingredients can help skin care products deliver what they promise.
June 15, 2011
By: Melissa Meisel
Did you know that more than half of female skin care users are anti-aging seekers, stating they have gone shopping or looked for skin care products with anti-aging benefits? And the same percentage (56%) of current anti-aging facial skin care users, according to The NPD Group, say they are not sure if these type of products really work, but they use them anyway?
One way to improve a personal care product’s efficacy is active ingredients. After all, more than dermatologists, television advertising, online searches or “best of” awards, the number one influence in helping a woman decide which anti-aging products to buy is the recommendation of her friends, family and coworkers, reported NPD. Actives make these products deliver.
“The ability of personal care products to deliver active ingredients is what defines good skin care,” said Jeannette Graf MD, assistant clinical professor of dermatology, The Mount Sinai Medical Center, New York, NY. “Proper and effective delivery of active ingredients can directly impact the appearance. In order to be considered active, the ingredient must be present in the proper concentration to deliver an effective result. Today’s consumer is quite educated about skin care and companies are using active ingredients as well as effective delivery systems to create high performance products.”
“The benefits of utilizing active ingredients in skin care products is that you have proven biological activity, which gives a greater chance of having a better clinical outcome,” added Neil Sadick, Sadick Dermatology, New York, NY. “These active ingredients are most commonly clinically tested and/or the findings are published in peer-reviewed journals.”
An Inside View
Industry suppliers agree that effective actives can be an asset to making skin care products stand out. When asked about the benefits of actives ingredients in skin care products, Sarah Teichmueller, marketing manager, Rovi Cosmetics International GmbH, Germany, told Happi, “The counter question is ‘what would skin care be without active ingredients?’The reason why we use skin care is to target certain skin issues or in other words to achieve a certain goal. The choice of active ingredients in a formulation characterizes the product.”
According to Eric Lippay, senior technical marketing manager, North America Skin Care, DSM Personal Care, Parsippany, NJ, “Active ingredients can deliver real benefits that are not usually possible with other cosmetic forms. They give companies making skin care products a significant advantage by being able to add ingredients backed by scientific proof of efficacy and targeted to specific benefits. Claim space can be expanded and consumers are the beneficiaries with these expanded skin care benefits including firming, evening tone or reducing the appearance of wrinkles, for example.”
Another instance, added Lippay, is that an active that can boost hyaluronan naturally in the skin could provide a much longer and different benefit than topically applied hyaluronic acid.
For the eye area, both peptides as well as combinations of actives may be needed to resolve the issues. Peptide products like Syn-Coll or Syn-Tacks from DSM can help to alleviate the appearance of wrinkles, as well as provide a smoothing effect on the crow’s feet area.
“In order to really have an effect on the combination of dark circles and puffy eyes, you need a combination of actives such those found in DSM’s Regu-Age,” said Lippay. “This ingredient combines oxido reductases with two other actives to reduce the appearance of dark circles and diminish puffiness.”
Dawn Thiel Glaser, technology manager, personal care division, Glenn Corporation, White Bear Lake, MN, agrees that peptides are imperative for effectual skin care.
“Peptides have been in vogue for several years now, and are continuing to gain popularity,” she said. “With the advent of DNA microarrays, suppliers can offer specific, targeted functionality with their peptides.”
Marine-based extracts and botanical extracts have been popular for some time, too, Thiel Glaser noted. More suppliers, however, are now providing information on the actual active molecule within the extract and its mechanism of action.
“Tried and true actives such as ceramides, and hyaluronic acid variants are maintaining their popularity,” she told Happi. “In the case of hyaluronic acid (HYA), there has been renewed interest in new, smaller molecules which have a better chance at penetrating the stratum corneum to provide benefits from within.”
An Added Bonus
Speaking of benefits from within, during the past decade there has been a growing trend toward natural actives, as consumers desire to minimize use of synthetic chemical substances, noted Kavita Subramanian, senior manager, international business, Sabinsa Corporation, East Windsor, NJ.
“Cosmetics containing natural active compounds are increasingly in demand by consumers,” Subramanian said. “The area of active ingredients application in cosmetics is quite wide and contains several unique compounds.”
In general, botanicals provide different vitamins, essential oils, dyes, tannins, proteins, terpenoids, alkaloids, polyphenols and other bioactive molecules. Skin lightening, anti-aging (anti-wrinkle, antioxidants), sun care and moisturizing ingredients are popular products today, noted Subramanian. Due to the aging population of Baby Boomers, the anti-aging market is growing, too.
“Most recently, the emerging trend of ‘beauty inside and out’ is becoming increasingly popular, wherein nutricosmetics and topically applied cosmeceuticals work in harmony to promote physical experience and well-being,” added Subramanian.
Actives & The OTC Market
Acne is a common and often devastating problem that leads to emotional consequences as well as the potential for scarring, noted Dr. Julie K. Karen of the Laser & Skin Surgery Center of New York and assistant clinical professor of dermatology, NYU School of Medicine, New York, NY. Active ingredients account for the effectiveness of OTC medications. The active ingredient dictates the mechanism of action and thereby translates into real clinical benefit.
“A product’s formulation may factor significantly into efficacy, as well as tolerability. If a product is poorly tolerated, a patient is unlikely to stick with it,” she said. Specifically, certain formulations, such as Proactiv’s micro-crystallized benzoyl peroxide present in Proactiv Renewing Cleanser, features very fine benzoyl peroxide particles. The smaller particles penetrate the skin more slowly and more evenly, translating into gentler, but effective treatment, added Karen.
“Consumers are more sophisticated, more educated and savvier than ever,” she told Happi. “Thus, they are demanding more information/substantiation of claims. Patients now know to look for certain tried and proven active ingredients and are becoming less likely to utilize products that lack those ingredients.”
Among the most common OTC active ingredients right now in the marketplace are:
• Benzoyl peroxide (BP): Arguably the most effective active ingredient in OTC acne products. BP kills the culprit bacterium p. acnes, helps eliminate excess oils from the skin and eliminates pore-clogging dead skin cells. A wide range of concentrations are available. Low concentrations are generally associated with lesser risk of dryness, stinging and burning.
• Beta-hydroxy acids (i.e. salicylic acid): slows down the skin shedding process, helps to reduce occlusion of pores.
• Alpha-hydroxy acids (AHA) (i.e. glycolic acid): retexturizes/reduces clogged pores by exfoliating and stimulating growth of collagen (the skin’s structural support) and thus may benefit people with mild scarring. Further improves acne by decreasing inflammation. Evens pigment and tone.
• Polyhydroxy acids (next generation alpha-hydroxy acids): similar benefit to AHAs, but larger molecule with more hydroxyl groups and thus penetrates skin more slowly and has tendency to be less irritating. Also, potently hydrating.
• Retinol: a derivative of vitamin A. Precursor to retinoic acid (the prescription strength). Normalizes skin maturation process and helps correct abnormal skin shedding/occlusion of pores. With regular use, helps smooth skin and reduce pore size. Combats formation of comadones. Also, has anti-aging benefits.
Sabinsa’s offerings in this category include Saberry, a powdered extract of the fruits of amla extract that helps protect the skin from the damaging effects of free radicals and heavy metal-induced oxidative stress. It is regarded as one of the best rejuvenating herbs, said Subramanian.
Saberry can help rebuild the skin collagen matrix and restore, to some degree, a youthful appearance to the skin, Subramanian told Happi.With the added advantage of its potential antioxidant activity, Saberry also can help in the management of sunlight-induced photo damage.
“Plant extracts are very popular in actives, especially when they can support a sustainable positioning as most of the brands have taken this orientation, either as a front marketing positioning or as part of the core strategy of the company,” confirmed Bethsabée Coutaz, Laboratoires Sérobiologiques division of Cognis France, now part of BASF, global marketing director, Laboratoires Sérobiologiques Paris, France.
Today’s power actives truly run the gamut, according to Raymond Sourial, sales director, Centerchem, Inc., Norwalk, CT.
“There was a point when peptides were all the rage. Then, natural ingredients gained the spotlight. Now, customers may shade one way or another, but generally they ask for ingredients that work,” he told Happi. “I can’t tell you how many times I’ve been told that the customer wants natural ingredients. Then, they follow it up with a statement like, ‘but if you have something synthetic or biotech that really works, we can make it fit.’”
Facing Forward
So, what are the future trends in active ingredients for 2012 and beyond? Sources concur that novel components lead the way in terms of better products with better results.
“Skin care products will continue to go from the cosmeceutical to the ‘cosmolecular.’ This is a term that describes the trend in skin care toward molecular mechanisms and looking inside the cell as opposed to outside of the skin,” said Graf.
Natural ingredient technologies and green environmentally friendly skin care will continue to flourish and the science of their molecular mechanisms will continue to be defined, she added.
The rise is the advancement of natural actives is indeed on the rise, agreed Lippay of DSM Personal Care.
“More naturals will be developed and refined with stronger supporting in-vitro and in-vivo studies,” he said.
Thiel Glaser of Glenn Corporation told Happi that there will be more targeted functionality with the use of microarrays in actives.Additionally, the debate on “drug versus cosmetic” will continue, she said.
According to Sadick, detoxifying agents, which protect against free radical damage and protein denaturation in cells—as well as stem cell modulators, to stimulate reproduction as well as to keep cells alive for a longer period of time—are key to the progression of active ingredients. Products with improved protection functions during the day, as well as the combination use of active plus at-home technologies for treatment of acne, photoaging, skin tightening and hair removal will also be big in 2012, he said.
“Active ingredients have a bright future. The pace of the growth of knowledge and innovation will allow more areas to be explored,” agreed Sourial of Centerchem. “In order to predict where the future for active ingredients lies, one simply needs to look at recent scientific and medical discoveries. In the same way that changes in surgical procedures, nutrition and protection have already altered the active ingredient landscape, I am sure that we are in store for more such developments.”
New ActiveIngredients 2011 Here is a list of new active ingredients introduced by industry suppliers during the past 12 months. To learn more about any of the products listed here, contact the suppliers directly using the information provided below. Biovelop AB Distributed by Brenntag Specialties Inc. South Plainfield, NJ Tel: (800) 732-0562 Email: avenacare@biovelop.com, specialties@brenntag.com Website: www.avenacare.com, www.brenntagspecialties.com Avenacare Oat Beta Glucan INCI: Oat beta glucan Suggested use levels: 1-10% Applications: Skin care, sun care, hair care Comments: This unique hypoallergenic ingredient, naturally derived from locally grown, non-GMO, Swedish oats, is renowned for its anti-aging, rejuvenating and soothing properties. The Avenacare oat beta glucan molecules stimulate the synthesis of collagen, reduce fine lines and wrinkles, increase skin firmness and elasticity, accelerate wound healing, soothe skin irritations, hydrate the skin and protect against the damaging effects of UVA/UVB light. Avenacare oat beta glucan can also be incorporated into hair care products, where it provides nourishment to the hair, improves tensile strength, adds body and helps repair damaged hair. Corum Inc. Taipei, Taiwan Tel: +886 2 8751 6060 Email: marketing@corum.com.tw sales@corum.com.tw Website: www.corum.com.tw Corum 9515 INCI: Ethyl ascorbic acid Suggested use levels: 2% Applications: Skin care products, whitening serum, whitening lotion and whitening cream Comments: Corum 9515 (ethyl ascorbic acid) is a new generation of stable vitamin C derivative that has a whitening effect and serves to promote collagen synthesis. It exhibits a strong melanogenesis inhibition effect. It also works as L-ascorbic acid to reduce dark spots and achieve anti-oxidation effect. Furthermore, Corum 9515 is able to protect DNA from being damaged. DeWolf Chemical, Inc. Warwick, RI Tel: (800) 521-0065 Email: orders@dewolfchem.com Website: www.dewolfchem.com Beracare Triple A System INCI: Copaifera officinalis oil (and) carapa guaianensis nut oil (and) euterpe olerracea oil Suggested use levels: 1.5% Applications: Anti-acne Comments: Beracare Triple A system was developed to improve the health of acne-prone skin. The effectiveness of this product is obtained because of the synergy between different natural constituents. Botany Grapes INCI: Vitis vinifera (grape) seed extract (and) silica Suggested use levels: Up to 0.2% Applications: Skin care anti-aging, hair care Comments: A standardized extract used as an active ingredient for skin and hair care formulations with anti-aging and anti-puffiness properties at dosages of 0.1-0.5%. The incorporation is recommended at temperatures below 70°C. DSM Nutritional Products, LLC North American Distributor—Centerchem, Inc. Tel: (203) 822-9800 Email: cosmetics@centerchem.com Website: www.centerchem.com Regu-Fade INCI: Resveratrol Suggested use levels: Up to 1% Applications: Cosmetic applications include skin-brightening facial and body care products, creams and serums for age spots and anti-aging skin care products for a more even skin tone. Comments: Regu-Fade is a high-performing, fast-acting and preservative-free active that offers multifunctional and excellent skin lightening properties for radiant and youthful-looking skin. Cosmetic applications include skin brightening facial and body care products, creams and serums for age spots and anti-aging skin care products for a more even skin tone. Glenn Corp. White Bear Lake, MN Tel: (888) 453-6267 Email: orders@glenncorp.com Website: www.glenncorp.com Botany Centella INCI: Centella asiatica extract (and) maltodextrin (and) silica Suggested use levels: 1-5% Applications: Skin care Comments: This is a standardized extract used as an active ingredient for skin care formulations with anti-aging, firming and calming properties at dosages of 1-5%. The incorporation is recommended at temperatures below 70°C. Sensolene Care DD INCI: Dodecyl olivate Suggested use levels: 1-5% Applications: Sun care, skin care, AP/deodorants, color cosmetics Comments: Melting point mimics that of skin lipids immediate (1 hour) and long-term moisturization (up to 8 hours) immediate (1 hour) and long-term elasticity (up to 8 hours) very good spread, no tack, EcoCert Abil EM-180 INCI: Cetyl PEG/PPG-10/1 dimethicone Suggested use levels: 0.5-2.5% Applications: Skin care Comments: High formulation flexibility without facing any stability issues, robust systems that can easily be produced, compatible with all types of oils and active ingredients. Able to handle high load of UV filters (e.g. U.S. sun protection formulas with high SPF) Gova BVBA Belgium, Antwerp Tel: 0032/36-36-32-31 Email: info@gova-benelux.be Website: www.gova-benelux.be Biodine V INCI: Macadamia ternifolia seed oil, phospholipids, glycine soja sterol, stearic acid, glycerin, safflower oil/palm oil aminopropanediol esters, squalane Suggested use levels: 0.3-0.5%, rinse off 0.5-4.0% leave on Applications: Skin and body care, bodywash Comments: Sensitive, dry or damaged skin suffers from a partially destroyed hydrolipidic film. Biodine V repairs this damage instantly thanks to its similar composition and liquid crystal structure. Lipo Chemicals, Inc. Paterson, NJ Tel: (973) 345-8600 Email: salesandmarketing@lipochemicals.com Website: www.lipochemicals.com Liposhield HEV Melanin INCI: Melanin Suggested use levels: 0.2-1.0% Applications: Daily wear moisturizing creams and lotions; anti-aging treatment products; sunscreen products; foundation makeup; hand creams Comments: Liposhield HEV Melanin is the first cosmetic ingredient designed to protect the skin from damaging high-energy visible light Bioferrin 5000 INCI: Apo-lactoferrin Suggested use levels: 0.5-1.0% Applications: Face creams, hand and body lotions, lip treatment products, soothing after-sun products, baby products Comments: Bioferrin 5000 is patent pending for elevating hyaluronic acid levels in human tissue to promote significant skin hydration following topical application. Rejuverrin INCI: Whey protein Suggested use levels: 0.5-1.0% Applications: Anti-aging face and eye creams; hand and body lotions; lip repair creams; foundation makeup; soothing post-treatment lotions; rich prestige and spa lines. Comments: A natural multifunctional anti-aging solution with anti-aging benefits for skin regeneration, restructuring and repair. Lumerrin INCI: Hydrolyzed whey protein Suggested use levels: 2-5% Applications: Facial creams and serums; hand and body lotions; foundations; soothing after-sun creams and lotions. Comments: Research shows Lumerrin significantly reduced the accumulation of melanin and thus may be useful in cosmetic applications for skin brightening, minimizing age spots and evening skin tone. Lipotec North American Distributor—Centerchem, Inc. Norwalk, CT Tel: (203) 822-9800 Email: cosmetics@centerchem.com Website: www.centerchem.com Silusyne INCI: Water (aqua), soybean (glycine soja) oil, propanediol, sorbitan sesquioleate, isohexadecane, hydroxypropyl starch phosphate, sclerotium gum, sodium hyaluronate, lauryldimonium hydroxypropyl, hydrolyzed soy protein, acetyl hexapeptide-39 Suggested use levels: 2% Applications: Silusyne is a perfect ingredient for anti-cellulite and slimming treatments and as a complement in any type of body care formulation. Comments: Silusyne is a paraben-free active ingredient that reduces adipocyte differentiation. Silusyne helps to improve the appearance of visible cellulite as dermo-hypodermal junction irregularities are smoothed. Mibelle Biochemistry Buchs, Switzerland Tel: +41 62 836 17 31 Email: info@mibellebiochemistry.com Website: www.mibellebiochemistry.com PhytoCellTec Argan INCI: Argania spinosa sprout cell extract Suggested use levels: 0.4-1% Applications: Stem cell cosmetics, anti-aging Comments: First active ingredient designed to delay the depletion of the dermal stem cells SunActin INCI: Helianthus annuus (sunflower) sprout extract Suggested use levels: 2-5% Applications: Sun care with an SPF protection, sun care, anti-aging Comments: It protects the skin against oxidative stress and complements the protective effect of sunscreens. LIPerfection INCI: Brassica alba sprout extract Suggested use levels: 2-5% Applications: Lipstick, lip care formulas, lip contour treatment Comments: The active increases the volume and the hydration of the lips. Absolute volume—luscious feel. Provital North American Distributor—Centerchem, Inc. Norwalk, CT Tel: (203) 822-9800 Email: cosmetics@centerchem.com Website: www.centerchem.com Cinnamon Ecoft INCI: Propanediol, water, cinnamomum zeylanicum bark extract Suggested use levels: 0.5-5.0% Applications: Cinnamon Ecoft extract is recommended in the formulation of cosmetic products intended to preserve the integrity of skin and hair against oxidative processes as well as products with stimulating activity on blood microcirculation. Comments: Cinnamon Ecoft extract is produced from the bark of C.zeylanicum, rich in polyphenols and sugars, coming from organic crops and fair trade practices. It exhibits the following cosmetic properties: dermo-stimulant activity, antioxidant activity, antiglycation activity, antimicrobial activity and astringent activity. Rahn AG Zurich, Switzerland Tel: +41 44 315 42 00 Email: Cosmetics@rahn-group.com Website: www.rahn-group.com North America: contact Kinetik Technologies, Inc. Hazlet, NJ Tel: (732) 335-5775 Fax: (732) 335-0210 Reforcyl INCI: Glycerin, water, glutamine, decyl glucoside, phenethyl alcohol, cistus incanus flower/leaf/stem extract, gynostemma pentaphyllum leaf/stem extract Suggested use levels: 1-5% Applications: Anti-age products for mature skin. Suitable for O/W and W/O emulsions, gels and serums Comments: Activation of LXR in human primary keratinocytes (in-vitro study). Activation of key enzymes involved in epidermal lipid synthesis (in-vitro study). Improvement of hydration, firmness, elasticity and smoothness of skin (in-vivo study). Visibleimprovement of wrinkle depth in eye area (in-vivo study). Free of preservatives, Ecocert listed. Slimexir INCI: Water, levan, cynara scolymus (artichoke) fruit extract (suggested name), decyl glucoside, phenethyl alcohol, glucose, caffeine, theobromine, methyl xanthine, paraxanthine Suggested use levels: 2-10% Applications: Body care products to refine the silhouette and re-contour the body. Suitable for O/W and W/O emulsions, gels and lotions. Comments: Prevents formation of new adipocytes (in-vitro study). Reduces lipid accumulation in adipocytes (in-vitro study). Stimulates degradation of existing fat (in-vitro study). Triggers fragmentation of lipid droplets (postulated mechanism) (in-vitro study). Leads to a significant reduction of abdomen volume (in-vivo study). Free of preservatives. Resources of Nature LLC South Plainfield, NJ Tel: (908) 226-5123 Email: info@roninc.com Website: www.roninc.com Distinctive Phytostem Edelweiss INCI: Glycerin, leontopodium alpinum meristem cell culture, xanthan gum Suggested use levels: 0.5-5% Applications: Anti-aging wrinkle depth reduction Comments: Recent advances in plant cell culturing technology have allowed us to efficiently produce rare antioxidants which are naturally occurring in plants. This new technique of manufacturing botanical-based ingredients captures the essence of the most active plant chemistry. The process produces ingredients, which are beyond certified organic in purity, are completely eco-friendly and non-GMO. Specifically plant stem cells cultures from Edelweiss deliver powerful adaptogen antioxidants (leontopodic acids) to clinically reduce depth of wrinkles around the eye area by 15% after 20 days of treatment. Instalift Goji GF INCI: Water, lycium barbarum fruit extract Suggested use levels: 3% Applications: Instant skin firming Comments: Instalift Goji is an isolated active glycopeptide fraction from the goji berry which combines the skin lifting and firming strength of both proteins and polysaccharides. This specific glycopeptide fraction forms a perfect rigid lifting mesh to support sagging and wrinkled skin for creating an immediate visible lifting appearance with a clinical improvement in skin firmness by 26.8% within one hour of application. Instalift Goji further offers critical long-term anti-aging functions via: inhibition of MMP 1 expression, antioxidant efficacy, anti-apoptotic activity, and collagen stimulation for a complete anti-aging treatment. DC Detoxdefense INCI: Water, phospholipids, butylene glycol, cordyceps sinensis extract, beta vulgaris (beet) root extract Suggested use levels: 1-3% Applications: Anti-aging skin protection Comments: DC Detoxdefense is a “smart ingredient” comprised of multi-layer, phospholipid-based vesicles concentrated with protective and detoxifying extracts. By supporting the skin’s own DNA expression and cell protection, DC Detoxdefense defends against premature aging and helps maintain a healthy, beautiful complexion. Highly skin compliant, DC Detoxdefense is readily absorbed by the skin offering optimal delivery of potent, naturally occurring cell regulating compounds. These main component cordyceps, a mushroom-like fungus rich in adenosine, cordycepic acid, minerals, amino acids and vitamins, has been used throughout Asia for many centuries to help maintain and improve health. DC Detoxdefense is proven efficacious in expressing intracellular superoxide dismutase (SOD) for up-regulating skin’s own protective defenses against superoxide free radicals and other environmental insults including protection against photodamage. Rovi Cosmetics International GmbH Schlüchtern, Germany Tel: +496661 96760 Email: info@rovicosmetics.de Website: www.rovicosmetics.de Herbapurifine INCI: Water/aqua, butylene glycol, lecithin, salix alba bark extract, bakuchiol, magnolia grandiflora leaf extract Suggested use levels: 3% Applications: Adult skin impurities, reduction of efflorescences (comedones, papels, pustules), sebum reduction, inhibition of pro-inflammatory proteins, antibacterial, reducing itchiness Comments: Tested in-vivo and in vitro, Preservative free, Ecocert compliant. UniTone INCI: Water/aqua, alcohol, lecithin, ethyl ascorbic acid, propylene glycol, behentrimonium chloride, aloesin, hexylresorcinol, sodium citrate, disodium EDTA Suggested use levels: 3% Applications: Skin whitening, local skin depigmentation, effective reduction of the skin’s intra- and extracellular melanin content, effective reduction of the tyrosinase activity Comments: Tested in-vivo (5D Intravital Tomography) and in vitro, cell targeted delivery Sabinsa Corporation East Windsor, NJ Tel: (732) 777-1111 Email: Deborah@sabinsa.com, kavita@sabinsa.com Website: www.sabinsacosmetics.com PteroWhite INCI: Pterocarpus marsupium bark extract Suggested use levels: 0.1-0.5% w/w Applications: Antioxidant, skin lightening Comments: PteroWhite is a proprietary natural pterostilbene ingredient for cosmetic application, extracted from the dried heartwood of Pterocarpus marsupium. SabiLize INCI: Cinnamomum zeylanicum bark oil, eugenia caryophyllus (clove) leaf oil, cymbopogon citratus leaf oil, glyceryl laurate and thymus vulagaris (thyme) leaf oil Suggested use levels: 0.2-1.0% Applications: Anti-microbial and preservative Comments: SabiLize is a proprietary blend of natural anti-microbial actives with a proven preservative efficacy. Artonox INCI: Artocarpus lakoocha wood extract Suggested use levels: 0.1-0.5% Applications: Skin lightening Comments: Artonox is obtained from the dried heartwood of artocarpus lakoocha. It is standardized for oxyresveratrol 95%, which is an analog of resveratrol. Silab Brive, France Tel: 33-555-84-58-40 Email: silab@silab.fr Website: www.silab.fr Instensyl INCI: Hydrolyzed manihot esculenta tuber extract Suggested use levels: 1-7% Applications: Face and body Comments: Created from a new sugar reticulation technology, the 3D molecular network of Instensyl performs by anchoring and spreading itself at the skin surface to form a viscoelastic film, within a fast timeframe. Stable and articulated, this glucan biopolymer (Manihot esculenta) immediately provokes lifting and smoothing effects with demonstrated sensorial properties. Instensyl is to be used in all face and body care, in all kind of formulae. Oxygeskin INCI: Tropaeolum majus flower/leaf/stem extract Suggested use levels: 1-3% Applications: Face and body Comments: Rich in arabinogalactans from nasturtium, Oxygeskin restores the capacities of the cells to respond to the hypoxic stress and helps the intracellular diffusion of oxygen. This double mechanism promotes skin oxygenation and conducts to a smoothed skin surface and improved complexion radiance. Oxygeskin brightens dull skin. It is recommended for all complexion skin care.•
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