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Both are ascorbic acid esters. THDC comes from reaction with 2-hexyldecanoic acid but Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitates derives from reaction with isopalmitic acid.
January 11, 2022
By: TOM BRANNA
Chief Content Officer
Sytheon collaborated with the Personal Care Products Council and the Chemical Abstract Services to correctly identify Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitates. For 25 years THDC (CAS # 183476-82-6) and Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitates (CAS # 183476-6) were construed as being equivalent structures. However, Sytheon notes they represent two different chemistries with different CAS numbers. While both are esters of ascorbic acid, THDC comes from reaction with 2-hexyldecanoic acid whereas Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitates derives from reaction with isopalmitic acid. Two different fatty acids that when esterified with ascorbic acid yield two unique products. Although both water-soluble (sodium ascorbyl phosphate, magnesium ascorbyl phosphate and ascorbyl glucoside) and oil soluble ascorbyl esters are widely used in cosmetic and therapeutic preparations, one of the most popular forms today is tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate (THDC, Sytheon's VitaSynol C). As an oil-soluble derivative, THDC not only improves chemical stability, but its lipophilic nature facilitates delivery into the epidermis and dermis where it undergoes intracellular enzymatic conversion to free ascorbic acid (AA). Importantly, free AA must be released by THDC before its skin benefits can be realized. Thus, THDC is a precursor of AA.  Besides correcting this misnomer, Sytheon also demonstrated that stability of THDC under an oxidant-rich environment and its skin benefits can be improved by combining it with Synoxyl AZ (INCI: Acetyl Zingerone). This work was published in the International J Molecular Sciences, 22: 8756, 2021, Open access.  Sytheon recommends formulators check with their suppliers to ensure they are using the correct INCI name and CAS number for the vitamin C esters in formulation.  For more information, info@sytheonltd.com   Â
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