The Estée Lauder Companies Inc. presented a range of novel preclinical and clinical findings at the 25th World Congress of Dermatology, held this week in Singapore. 

 

The poster and satellite symposium presentations reflect a strong portfolio of prestige beauty and skin care brands effectively translating biological learnings and progressive research efforts into meaningful innovation, including better methods to care for and protect skin.

 

“For over 75 years, innovation in skin science has been our north star. With rapidly emerging knowledge and advancements from the dermatologic and scientific communities, the science of skin care has never been more important,” said Lisa Napolione, senior vice president, global research & development (R&D). “As we live longer, research on health span and longevity will only accelerate. To meet these innovation challenges, we are thinking differently, and in a manner enabled by novel science across all our global laboratories and clinics.”

Hao Ouyang, PhD, executive director, clinical sciences, presented a six-month evaluator blinded, randomized and controlled clinical study on the benefits of regular moisturizer use to prevent skin aging. 

 

Moisturizers are routinely used to treat dry skin conditions and are considered the basis of skin care, but the long-term standalone benefits of consistent application have not been fully demonstrated with randomized controlled trial clinical studies.

 

This study evaluated 160 women, aged 35-65, with dry skin, mild to moderate crow's feet wrinkles and a low frequency of skin care regimen. Participants were split into two groups: one using moisturizer regularly and the other continuing at a low frequency.

 

Results revealed that regular application of a potent moisturizer can not only treat skin dryness, but also improve the dry skin stratum corneum (the outermost layer of the epidermis) cohesion to reduce the appearance of facial aging.

Jaime Emmetsberger, PhD, La Mer's Max Huber Research Labs lead scientist, presented the effect of a multi-ingredient facial cream on skin structure, function and appearance with evidence from ex vivo and clinical studies.

 

La Mer scientists evaluated a topical cream formulation containing Macrocystis pyrifera ferment and other ingredients in clinical studies with participants with a range of skin tones.
 

In in-vivo experiments, the cream improved skin barrier recovery and resilience, mitigated visible redness (erythema) in addition to irritation and demonstrated a reduction in hallmark signs of aged skin in US- and Asia-based populations.

 

Histological assessment of ex vivo human skin explants suggested that topical application enhanced key extracellular matrix proteins and hyaluronic acid, corroborating in vivo results.
 

The findings suggest the facial cream provides an effective treatment for improving barrier integrity and strength as well as signs of aging parameters and skin appearance with regular daily use.

Nadine Pernodet, PhD, senior vice president, bioscience and lead scientist Estée Lauder Research Laboratories, examined the role of sirtuins (SIRTs) or “longevity proteins” – a class of enzymes synchronized to circadian rhythms that regulate protein expression – in promoting youthful skin properties.

 

The findings build on the team's previous results that showed SIRT activity in skin cells is linked to environmental stressors, including UV and ozone.

 

Treatment with SIRT 1, 2, 3, and 6 activators helped to rebuild protein structure and increased collagen production in mature skin cells, while the combination of SIRT 1 and 3 activators increased elastin and fibrillin production in ex vivo skin samples. Activation of SIRT2 also increased skin cell area – a hallmark feature typical of younger skin cells. Taken together, all four activators exerted different effects to preserve the mechanical properties of young skin.

Tom Mammone, PhD, vice president, advanced technologies, bioscience said that one cause of skin-aging and a sallow complexion is glycation – a chemical modification that occurs on sugar molecules and leads to the formation of advanced glycation end products (AGEs). AGEs can be detected using measurements of auto-fluorescence at different excitation/emission wavelengths within the UV and blue spectrum.

 

Using 3D skin models, researchers studied the anti-glycation properties of six compounds to determine their capacities to reduce auto-fluorescence in 3D skin models.

 

The compounds were tested topically in a dose-response study over seven days, revealing that GlcNAc, DE, vitamin C and E were most effective in demonstrating significant reduction of AGE auto-fluorescence compared to skin models treated with glycation agent methylglyoxal alone.
 

These results reveal that the anti-glycation capacity of compounds used in skin care formulations may be associated with the reduced appearance of skin sallowness.

A Clinique-led clinical trial presented by Kristine Schmalenberg, PhD, executive director, clinical sciences, evaluated a combination of ingredients that supported natural skin repair versus a single laser treatment in a population of 42 women with moderate facial photodamage. The efficacy and tolerability of the topical product versus a single ablative laser treatment was assessed over 16 weeks.

 

While no statistically significant differences in tolerability were observed, treatment with the cosmetic topical product achieved a statistically significant improvement in all measured parameters compared to a single laser treatment, thereby showing parity on those parameters.
 

The topical product improved the appearance of global lines, wrinkles, and hyperpigmentation, as well as skin tone evenness, texture, smoothness, and firmness – suggesting efficacy in combatting visible signs of skin aging.