Fine Fragrance Sales Climb with Milestones, Legacies and Celebrity-Backed Launches

Scent has long been a go-to pick me up—and younger consumers are buying into the idea that a great fragrance can impact their current state of mind.

Per Circana’s Fragrance Consumer Report 2023, the influence is significant. Gen Z represents the lion’s share of the 80% of fragrance users who agree that perfume helps to instantly alter a sour mood and instill self-confidence. Gen Z’s use of fragrance has grown five percentage points to 83%. What’s more, spritzers as young as 13 extending into the mid-20s rank highest when it comes to “heavy usage,” which equates to spraying their wrists and necks at least three times a week before school, work and social outings. Their usage surpasses that of Millennials, according to the report.

Larissa Jensen, beauty industry advisor at Circana, encourages fragrance brands and manufacturers to “capture the hearts and wallets” of these age groups and leverage TikTok, too.

Pop music star Ariana Grande’s newest fragrance, Cloud Pink, is aimed at these younger consumers. The full-sized bottle, nestled in a cloud-like platform, launched in August at Ulta with a retail price of $68. Crafted by Firmenich’s Clement Gavarry, the highly sweet-smelling fragrance is billed as a sensual blend of ambery woods, magenta moss and a touch of sweetened praline. Grande has been praised for her work in helping create fragrances that have “longevity and broad appeal” and is a “true pillar” of the industry, according to Luxe Brands CEO Tony Bajaj.

“Since the peak pandemic period, the fragrance market continues to bask in the sweet smell of sales success because of its highly personal and emotive nature,” explained Jensen.

Earlier this year, the sky was the limit for clean fragrance maker Skylar. Its Boardwalk Delight eau de parfum reportedly sold out at Sephora within 10 days of launch, making it one of the retailer’s most successful launches.

Skylar’s 10th scent captures the spirit of “sandy toes, delectable treats and carefree seaside smiles,” according to the brand. The scent profile entails a blend of cotton candy, raspberry sorbet and coconut milk balanced by vanilla.

Boardwalk Delight was introduced last year on the brand’s website, Skylar.com, and sold out over five times. It also gained a cult following on the Skylar Scent Club, the brand’s monthly subscription service, said the brand. 

This past summer, the fragrance’s success inspired Skylar to partner with Amazon Prime to create an Amazon Prime video series called “The Summer I Turned Pretty.” It featured a rollerball trio of Boardwalk Delight along with Salt Air and Capri reimagined with “The Summer I Turned Pretty” branding.

“We created the sweetness of Boardwalk Delight to relive the memories of our youth, and Salt Air evokes feelings of serenity—the same that flood your senses any time you’re within a mile of the ocean. If you’re dreaming of the warm sun, epic coastline and sweet, zesty citrus fruits, that’s the epitome of Capri Summer,” said Sara Miranda, marketing vice president at Skylar, which became part of Starco in January 2023.

Looking at total US multi-outlets with c-stores, inclusive of grocery, drug, mass market, convenience, military and select club and dollar retailers, women’s fragrances grew 13.1% to $726.9 million in the 52 weeks ending Sept. 10, 2023, according to Circana. These stats reflect the highest the category has seen in sales since January 6, 2019—after a slight three-year lag during the pandemic per the data. Men’s fragrances, however, saw a 3.7% decrease in sales. (See chart).

According to Circana’s point-of-sale data, fragrance sales revenue within the prestige beauty markets grew by 13% between January and August 2023 compared with the prior year period, with increases reflected in both average prices and units sold.

A Fragrant Investment at Lauder

The Estée Lauder Companies reported that overall net sales in the first quarter ended September 30, 2023 declined 10% from the prior year quarter, but organic net sales in fragrance and makeup grew, partially offsetting a decline in skincare.

According to ELC, Le Labo net sales grew strong double digits, reflecting growth in every region and benefitting from targeted expanded consumer reach, including in mainland China. Growth was driven by the brand’s hero product franchises, including Another 13 and Santal 33, in addition to its City Exclusive collection. Net sales increased from Tom Ford, fueled by successful new product innovation, such as Café Rose and continued strength from hero products such as Ombre Leather.

Building on the strength of its fragrance business, for which reported net sales grew nearly 40% since 2019, Lauder plans to establish an atelier in Paris by the end of 2024. The atelier will further what ELC calls its “strategic ambitions” in luxury and prestige fragrances by capitalizing on this momentum which has delivered 10 consecutive quarters of double-digit organic net sales growth through fiscal year 2023. The atelier will support ELC’s fragrance brand portfolio in proximity to the company’s fragrance house partners, ingredient suppliers and manufacturing network, according to the beauty giant.

Sharp Marketing Campaigns

With hit movies from the last year like “Elvis” starring Austin Butler, and more recently, “Barbie,” the sweet smell of success continues to spread from the box office into fine fragrance.

In August, YSL Beauty tapped Butler the beauty brand’s global ambassador of its new fragrance Myslf. The “Elvis” star—who said he appreciated Saint Laurent’s “rebel” persona that “broke through labels”—embraces the brand’s sought-after ethos of sensitivity and authenticity and confident yet approachable nature—attributes that comprise the brand’s view of the modern man, per YSL’s international general manager, beauty, Stephan Bezy.

In September, the brand onboarded recording artists Steve Lacy, Lil Yachty, Finn Wolfhard, Hunter Doohan and Noah Beck to lead the Myslf campaign. The refillable woody floral scent has notes of bergamot, orange blossom, patchouli and musky Ambrofix.

Similarly, singer Billie Eilish—the star behind the Barbie hit song “What Was I Made For”—is also finding success in the fragrance world.

Billie Eilish Fragrances, a part of the Parlux family, is one of the company’s strongest-performing brands, according to Parlux President Lori Singer. The company’s US domestic business is up 75% and international business is up 65% versus last year, Singer said.

Eilish No. 2, the follow-up to her debut scent Eilish, won the Consumer Choice Award in the Popular category at the 2023 Fragrance Foundation’s Fragrance Award. Last month, Parlux rolled out Eilish No. 3 in a limited release.

When designing the Eilish No. 3 bottle, the singer reportedly saw a world washed in red, which she translated into a crimson rendition of her signature bottle design. The carton is made using 100% renewable wind energy.

Eilish No. 3’s juice opens with a blend of grapefruit, pink peppercorn and jasmine and unfolds into spicy hints of saffron, fresh fir needle and cedar. The fragrance, as with all products in the Eilish collection, is also certified as cruelty-free through PETA’s Global Beauty Without Bunnies program.

Socialite and entrepreneur Paris Hilton is another celebrity on Parlux’s roster. Her 29th fragrance, Love Rush, launched last year.
According to Singer, Hilton plans to release her 30th fragrance in 2024, coinciding with the 20th anniversary of the creation of her fragrance business.

Vincenzo Spinnato, CEO of Turnkey Beauty, Inc. and the nose behind Judy: A Garland Fragrance and Ella by Vincenzo Spinnato, is set to launch two new scents in 2024: Hollywood Sunset and Hollywood Sunrise. Sunrise will have oceanic notes of coconut, vanilla and dark orchid. Sunset will combine sultry notes of tobacco, musk, coriander and dark orchid. Their release is timed the week of the 96th Academy Awards, which will take place on March 10. 

Viktor&Rolf’s Flowerbomb Eau de Parfum was named to the Fragrance Hall of Fame by the Fragrance Foundation this year. Other honorees included Hermès Terre d’Hermès Eau Givree eau de parfum (men’s prestige); Nest New York Golden Nectar (popular fragrance); and BDK Parfume Gris Charnel (perfume extraordinaire). In addition, L’Oréal’s Nicolas Hieronimus and IFF’s Anne Filipo were presented with Lifetime Achievement Awards.

More New Fragrances

A range of celebrities, designers and pop stars continue to roll out new fragrances.

For example, 10-time Grammy winner Chaka Khan has released her first namesake fragrance, Chaka by Chaka Khan. The fragrance, which debuted on the Home Shopping Network in November and is housed in a bottle shaped like a golden microphone, is an homage to the legendary singer’s 50-year career. The scent is a composition of violet and ylang ylang, bergamot and pink pepper with a hint of musk blossom, woodsy patchouli, vanilla, warm cinnamon and sandalwood.

Pop queen Beyoncé also has a new scent. Inspired by her Renaissance World Tour, eau de parfum Cé Noir, which the Grammy winning singer is launching ahead of the holiday season, is housed in a silver chrome-plated bottle with sharp edges.

“I wanted something to be monolithic, and I wanted something to have a little bit of intimacy,” said Beyonce in a promotional Instagram video about her fragrance. The music superstar says the scent has been years in the making and is something she sprays on during her shows.

A new player in the fragrance category is jewelry and lifestyle brand Kendra Scott. The addition of the fragrance portfolio continues on the brand’s expansion into new markets that include home furnishings and menswear.

Comprised of three distinct fragrances that draw inspiration from wanderlust, as well as Founder Scott’s personal travels, the collection includes Ruby Musk, Amber Aura and Jade Blossom. Ruby Musk is billed as a nostalgic, sophisticated and alluring aroma, It opens with deep notes of bergamot, pink pepper and rose. Base notes include amber, patchouli and coconut musk. Amber Aura is a medley of rich cedarwood notes, warm florals and musk. Top notes include amber and cedarwood with base notes of ambrette, calming vanilla and praline. Jade Blossom, a bright and airy scent, opens with stimulating notes of jasmine and green flower. The blend finds balance with an undercurrent of tuberose and meditative, silky base notes of sandalwood and vetiver.

The bottles translate the brand’s “Danielle and Davie” silhouettes into fragrance vessels to bring Kendra Scott’s design staples into the personal fragrance space. The full-size bottles feature the Danielle shape, and a travel-sized version features the geometric Davie shape, according to the brand.

“Fragrance has always played a special role in my life—it’s purely transformative. Memorable scents have the power to define a mood, bring back a fond memory, and evoke emotion,” said Scott in a statement. “I always had a vision to add fragrance to our collection. Like jewelry, fragrance is personal, distinct and a unique accessory to the wearer. In developing this collection of scents, we aim to bring more joy to the Kendra Scott customer, and make a lasting impression that will accompany her through every chapter of her life.”

Christina Aguilera—whose hit songs include “Genie in a Bottle” and “Fighter”—has crafted a namesake fragrance using her nickname “X-Tina.” The scent is said to celebrate a fiery and fearless journey to move, explore and transform, according to marketers. Launched this fall, X-Tina is a floral fruity fragrance for women with top notes of black currant, raspberry and pear; middle notes of jasmine, violet leaf, rose petals and sugar; base notes of patchouli, oakmoss, musk and amber.

Looking to capitalize on the holiday season is Guess, which has rolled out Bella Vita Paradiso, the newest addition to the Bella Vita collection. Housed in a round, golden bottle, the floral amber gourmand scent opens with a blend of Italian Mandarin, pear blossom and red berries. Jasmine, gardenia and tuberose make up the middle notes while patchouli, amber and musk comprise the base of the scent.

Guess is a part of the Interparfums portfolio. In Q3, net sales for the fragrance company rose 31% over from a year ago. According to CEO Jean Madar, growth was driven primarily by “outstanding performances” in Guess along with Donna Karan/DKNY and Ferragamo. In the first quarter, the company also launched the Guess Originals trio of gender-inclusive fragrances.

Clean Scents & Future Ideas

The growing fine fragrance category caught the attention of Unilever Ventures, the venture capital arm of the Unilever Group, and US-based investment firm True Beauty Ventures, which have invested in clean beauty brand The 7 Virtues.

Founded by entrepreneur Barb Stegemann in 2010, the brand’s scents are crafted with a high (22%) fragrance oil concentration. The 7 Virtue’s mantra is “Make Perfume, Not War” and its commitment to clean fragrances has earned it Sephora’s Clean + Planet Positive seal.

“The 7 Virtues has cracked the code on creating long-lasting perfumes using sustainable ingredients that their loyal customers love, along with their empowering and authentic story,” said Anna Ohlosson-Baskerville, partner at Unilever Ventures, in a statement. “Driven by its philosophy, the 7 Virtues is elevating from an exciting indie brand to a legacy brand, and we’re delighted to be a part of its growth journey.”

As the calendar turns toward 2024, stakeholders will keep a keen eye on retail to see if the already buoyant fragrance category enjoys its typical holiday boost.

“With healthy sales thus far in 2023, fragrance is stepping into the holiday season in a nice position for what is among the top purchase occasions for this category,” said Jensen. 

Cowboy Chic Drives Fragrance Creations Fragrance creators are looking West for inspiration. Tru Western in October teamed with denim brand Wrangler to launch Wrangler Original cologne and perfume. Set to roll out ahead of the holiday season and rodeo’s largest event of the year, the Wrangler National Finals Rodeo, the fragrance duo was created for consumers living the western lifestyle. Wrangler Original Cologne for men features citrus and cinnamon threaded with wild lavender, cardamom herb and warm resins. Wrangler Original Perfume for women mixes notes of sun-ripened blackberry, pear and wild blooms infused with a soft musk. The packaging is an ode to the earliest cowboys who wore Wrangler denim. The brand’s signature 13MWZ and 14MWZ “Cowboy Cut” jeans with distressed denim are debossed on each carton and the inner box is adorned with vintage Wrangler bandana artwork. The iconic “W” stitching is embedded on each glass bottle, capped with a copper finish and branded button imprint. Another iconic brand channeling a Western vibe is Stetson Legend, a new scent from Scent Beauty, Inc. Stetson Legend was crafted with contemporary notes of upcycled cedarwood, vetiver and wild desert sage designed to resonate with a modern consumer seeking a premium fragrance that marries the sophistication of leather with the spirit of the great outdoors. Luke Grimes, star of the hit Paramount TV series “Yellowstone” is the brand ambassador, who likened the fragrance to “fresh, but rugged like the gentleman it is intended for.”